Powder coated brake calipers
05-11-2003, 03:01 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: palatine, il
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Powder coated brake calipers
This isn't written in stone yet, but Juker008 pm'd me about powder coating his brake calipers. Since he is in West Palm Beach, FL, and I am near Chicago we have some logistics to work out.
I agreed to do it for him, because it costs me nothing to do it. I get powder paint samples for free. We still have to pick out color(s) and paint chemistry yet, but that isn't hard. I have all the required equipment, 15 years of experience, and I recently completed a project that required me to powder coat small (small? 204 pound) completely cast iron food mixers for Hobart, to large, combination cast iron and sheet metal food mixers. Large means 7 feet tall and 3/4 of a ton in weight. So, I do not consider painting calipers a challenge.
Keep reading, I am leading up to something here.
Think this thing out, Juker. There is work to be done here. You need to supply me with clean, and I mean REALLY clean calipers. Also, do you want to paint the brackets that hold the calipers? How about the flat springs, etc? But this can be done. It is a chip shot for me, and it is really not a bother, as my real "work time" here involves about 5 minutes of my time, and I learn something while I do it.
My question to the rest of you, is if I can do it for you for essentially FREE (you pay shipping, both ways) are you interested? And Shawn, baby, send me your calipers and I will show you what a really durable, non chip coating looks like. Scrib, Nicky, if you are interested, we can do this and your car downtime will be less than 24 hours 'cause you are in my neighborhood.
I am not trying to start a business here, just doing a favor. If a handful of you respond, fine. If 100 of you do, I will have to rethink this for obvious reasons.
Please do NOT pm me about this. PMs are limited to 2000 characters, and I cannot tell you how to prep these things (painting is ALL ABOUT preparation) in 2000 characters.
I agreed to do it for him, because it costs me nothing to do it. I get powder paint samples for free. We still have to pick out color(s) and paint chemistry yet, but that isn't hard. I have all the required equipment, 15 years of experience, and I recently completed a project that required me to powder coat small (small? 204 pound) completely cast iron food mixers for Hobart, to large, combination cast iron and sheet metal food mixers. Large means 7 feet tall and 3/4 of a ton in weight. So, I do not consider painting calipers a challenge.
Keep reading, I am leading up to something here.
Think this thing out, Juker. There is work to be done here. You need to supply me with clean, and I mean REALLY clean calipers. Also, do you want to paint the brackets that hold the calipers? How about the flat springs, etc? But this can be done. It is a chip shot for me, and it is really not a bother, as my real "work time" here involves about 5 minutes of my time, and I learn something while I do it.
My question to the rest of you, is if I can do it for you for essentially FREE (you pay shipping, both ways) are you interested? And Shawn, baby, send me your calipers and I will show you what a really durable, non chip coating looks like. Scrib, Nicky, if you are interested, we can do this and your car downtime will be less than 24 hours 'cause you are in my neighborhood.
I am not trying to start a business here, just doing a favor. If a handful of you respond, fine. If 100 of you do, I will have to rethink this for obvious reasons.
Please do NOT pm me about this. PMs are limited to 2000 characters, and I cannot tell you how to prep these things (painting is ALL ABOUT preparation) in 2000 characters.
05-11-2003, 03:40 PM
#2
Suzuka Master
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Age: 48
Posts: 9,940
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
oooHHHH OOO.. open mouth = insert foot...
Dave your gonna get an overwhelming demand for this free service..
So what do you tihnk the turn around time will be?... how long will it take to dry before you can ship back to wherever?
Smitty
Dave your gonna get an overwhelming demand for this free service..
So what do you tihnk the turn around time will be?... how long will it take to dry before you can ship back to wherever?
Smitty
05-11-2003, 04:18 PM
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: palatine, il
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Smitty! How ya be? As long as I get completely CLEAN calipers and parts, the entire process will take me about an hour. My time will involve about five minutes per caliper. Mask bore, put screws in threaded holes, hang on a hook, spray powder, and put in an oven for one hour while I am doing other things.
I have actually coated sheet metal parts, perfectly, while blindfolded. The electrostatic attraction draws the paint to the metal. It is just like magnetism. All you gotta do is to be close.
I will be happy to do yours. Call shercon, act like you are a metal finisher, and ask for a sample of powder coating masking tape. Clean everything with solvent to get the organic grease and stuff off. Mask the bores, and sandblast to get the inorganic crap (rust and oxides) off. I'll mask the bolt holes (with bolts) for easy reassembly. If you saw this done, you would be amazed how easy it is to do. The only trick is to MAKE SURE the parts get HOT ENOUGH for LONG ENOUGH, and a great finish is guaranteed!
If you want yours done, contact powder paint suppliers at Spraylat, Akzo-Nobel, Rohm and Haas for a color guide. Tell them to drop ship your selected color to Dave Fredericksen, ITW Technology Center, 3650 West Lake Avenue, Dock #4, attn: Dave Fredericksen, Glenview, Il, 60025. They all know me.
If your calipers and parts arrive on Tuesday morning, and I have the paint in house, your calipers will ship by 3:00, same day. The paint is actually ready to ship when they are taken out of the 375 degree oven, but for obvious purposes, shipping materials are not friendly to that. I wait until they cool to room temperature.
If you want really, really cool looking calipers, remember that paint PROFILES surface imperfections, and castings are notiorus for surface imperfections. I would go to a metal finishing house (or, prepare all visible surfaces with 320 grit sandpaper, the cheap way) and have these things as smooth as a babys ass before paint. Do NOT use any fillers! (may not be conductive)
Check out a new corvette or a porsche to see what powder coated calipers look like. I am now kicking myself for not having my calipers done at the same time my wheels were done. After all, the car WAS on the jack stands for two weeks.
I have actually coated sheet metal parts, perfectly, while blindfolded. The electrostatic attraction draws the paint to the metal. It is just like magnetism. All you gotta do is to be close.
I will be happy to do yours. Call shercon, act like you are a metal finisher, and ask for a sample of powder coating masking tape. Clean everything with solvent to get the organic grease and stuff off. Mask the bores, and sandblast to get the inorganic crap (rust and oxides) off. I'll mask the bolt holes (with bolts) for easy reassembly. If you saw this done, you would be amazed how easy it is to do. The only trick is to MAKE SURE the parts get HOT ENOUGH for LONG ENOUGH, and a great finish is guaranteed!
If you want yours done, contact powder paint suppliers at Spraylat, Akzo-Nobel, Rohm and Haas for a color guide. Tell them to drop ship your selected color to Dave Fredericksen, ITW Technology Center, 3650 West Lake Avenue, Dock #4, attn: Dave Fredericksen, Glenview, Il, 60025. They all know me.
If your calipers and parts arrive on Tuesday morning, and I have the paint in house, your calipers will ship by 3:00, same day. The paint is actually ready to ship when they are taken out of the 375 degree oven, but for obvious purposes, shipping materials are not friendly to that. I wait until they cool to room temperature.
If you want really, really cool looking calipers, remember that paint PROFILES surface imperfections, and castings are notiorus for surface imperfections. I would go to a metal finishing house (or, prepare all visible surfaces with 320 grit sandpaper, the cheap way) and have these things as smooth as a babys ass before paint. Do NOT use any fillers! (may not be conductive)
Check out a new corvette or a porsche to see what powder coated calipers look like. I am now kicking myself for not having my calipers done at the same time my wheels were done. After all, the car WAS on the jack stands for two weeks.
05-11-2003, 04:25 PM
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: palatine, il
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Smitty, and all others interested: Suggest you use Polyester TGIC (triglyceride isocyanyrate) as a chemistry base. Standard polyester, polyurethane, or hybrid polyester/polyurethane and acrylic are all acceptable. Your wheels on your car have acrylic. Do NOT specify epoxy. It will "chalk" over time in sunlight.
Smitty: Juker is trying to do something very weird with his calipers, and I think, he might not be able to match, so we might need to contrast.
Any chance you can repost a picture of my wheels? If not, OK too.
Smitty: Juker is trying to do something very weird with his calipers, and I think, he might not be able to match, so we might need to contrast.
Any chance you can repost a picture of my wheels? If not, OK too.
Trending Topics
05-11-2003, 06:15 PM
#8
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,335
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Powder coated brake calipers
Originally posted by dfreder370
This isn't written in stone yet, but Juker008 pm'd me about powder coating his brake calipers. Since he is in West Palm Beach, FL, and I am near Chicago we have some logistics to work out.
I agreed to do it for him, because it costs me nothing to do it. I get powder paint samples for free. We still have to pick out color(s) and paint chemistry yet, but that isn't hard. I have all the required equipment, 15 years of experience, and I recently completed a project that required me to powder coat small (small? 204 pound) completely cast iron food mixers for Hobart, to large, combination cast iron and sheet metal food mixers. Large means 7 feet tall and 3/4 of a ton in weight. So, I do not consider painting calipers a challenge.
Keep reading, I am leading up to something here.
Think this thing out, Juker. There is work to be done here. You need to supply me with clean, and I mean REALLY clean calipers. Also, do you want to paint the brackets that hold the calipers? How about the flat springs, etc? But this can be done. It is a chip shot for me, and it is really not a bother, as my real "work time" here involves about 5 minutes of my time, and I learn something while I do it.
My question to the rest of you, is if I can do it for you for essentially FREE (you pay shipping, both ways) are you interested? And Shawn, baby, send me your calipers and I will show you what a really durable, non chip coating looks like. Scrib, Nicky, if you are interested, we can do this and your car downtime will be less than 24 hours 'cause you are in my neighborhood.
I am not trying to start a business here, just doing a favor. If a handful of you respond, fine. If 100 of you do, I will have to rethink this for obvious reasons.
Please do NOT pm me about this. PMs are limited to 2000 characters, and I cannot tell you how to prep these things (painting is ALL ABOUT preparation) in 2000 characters.
This isn't written in stone yet, but Juker008 pm'd me about powder coating his brake calipers. Since he is in West Palm Beach, FL, and I am near Chicago we have some logistics to work out.
I agreed to do it for him, because it costs me nothing to do it. I get powder paint samples for free. We still have to pick out color(s) and paint chemistry yet, but that isn't hard. I have all the required equipment, 15 years of experience, and I recently completed a project that required me to powder coat small (small? 204 pound) completely cast iron food mixers for Hobart, to large, combination cast iron and sheet metal food mixers. Large means 7 feet tall and 3/4 of a ton in weight. So, I do not consider painting calipers a challenge.
Keep reading, I am leading up to something here.
Think this thing out, Juker. There is work to be done here. You need to supply me with clean, and I mean REALLY clean calipers. Also, do you want to paint the brackets that hold the calipers? How about the flat springs, etc? But this can be done. It is a chip shot for me, and it is really not a bother, as my real "work time" here involves about 5 minutes of my time, and I learn something while I do it.
My question to the rest of you, is if I can do it for you for essentially FREE (you pay shipping, both ways) are you interested? And Shawn, baby, send me your calipers and I will show you what a really durable, non chip coating looks like. Scrib, Nicky, if you are interested, we can do this and your car downtime will be less than 24 hours 'cause you are in my neighborhood.
I am not trying to start a business here, just doing a favor. If a handful of you respond, fine. If 100 of you do, I will have to rethink this for obvious reasons.
Please do NOT pm me about this. PMs are limited to 2000 characters, and I cannot tell you how to prep these things (painting is ALL ABOUT preparation) in 2000 characters.
05-11-2003, 06:49 PM
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: palatine, il
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Soopa and lou: This will be no problem, period. I've been doing this all day for 15 years. But almost always on sheet metal. Two years ago, I was asked to try to do Hobart food mixers, made of cast iron. And I have sucessfully done that. In fact, in about one month, I have to move, temporially, to Hillsboro, Ohio, to supervise the start up of a new powder coating line for our food mixers. We allocated $997,000 to start the new line, and this is for our most profitable "big ticket item". It was so important, that I was specifically asked to explain my painting technology to our CEO of a 55,000 person company.
Being prudent, let us let me and Juker complete one set of calipers. Then, let us let Juker explain his highs, and hopefully, no lows. Each project is unique. For one thing, with powder coating, your calipers will "grow" by about .001" to .003". I do not consider this to be a factor.
Your (new) calipers are protected by a film of yellow dichromate, that yellowish/reddish finish, and it is EXTREMELY thin, but very effective, but lasts only a year, at most.
Now, if we blast this chromate away to insure cleanliness, and replace it with powder coating (PURE PLASTIC, WHICH DOES NOT RUST), at about 10 times the thickness, your calipers should last 5 years, easy.
I have no skeletons in my closet about this process. But I require clear instructions about the color and type of powder coating. And clean parts are required.
I can understand your questions about my being able to process your parts for you. I can do it, in spades. If you require more proof, US Patents 5379880 and 5476689 should ease your mind. Two more coming, and one involves being able to put powder coatings on a certain form of plastic!
I can do this, guys. See my powder coated wheels (which I did not do.) Credit: Smitty for the photo.
P.S. I will send Smitty a picture of a metalflake silver powder coating followed up with a clear, high gloss powder tomorrow, Monday on a Hobart cast iron transmission case. I trust he will post it. This is technology I can do, but my wheel coating, that you gotta pay for.
Being prudent, let us let me and Juker complete one set of calipers. Then, let us let Juker explain his highs, and hopefully, no lows. Each project is unique. For one thing, with powder coating, your calipers will "grow" by about .001" to .003". I do not consider this to be a factor.
Your (new) calipers are protected by a film of yellow dichromate, that yellowish/reddish finish, and it is EXTREMELY thin, but very effective, but lasts only a year, at most.
Now, if we blast this chromate away to insure cleanliness, and replace it with powder coating (PURE PLASTIC, WHICH DOES NOT RUST), at about 10 times the thickness, your calipers should last 5 years, easy.
I have no skeletons in my closet about this process. But I require clear instructions about the color and type of powder coating. And clean parts are required.
I can understand your questions about my being able to process your parts for you. I can do it, in spades. If you require more proof, US Patents 5379880 and 5476689 should ease your mind. Two more coming, and one involves being able to put powder coatings on a certain form of plastic!
I can do this, guys. See my powder coated wheels (which I did not do.) Credit: Smitty for the photo.
P.S. I will send Smitty a picture of a metalflake silver powder coating followed up with a clear, high gloss powder tomorrow, Monday on a Hobart cast iron transmission case. I trust he will post it. This is technology I can do, but my wheel coating, that you gotta pay for.
05-11-2003, 06:53 PM
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: palatine, il
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lou: Black is super easy! I have a high gloss black in stock that I have used a lot. It matches the high gloss, non metalflake Cadillac offered in 2003. Looks great!
05-11-2003, 07:05 PM
#11
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,335
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by dfreder370
Lou: Black is super easy! I have a high gloss black in stock that I have used a lot. It matches the high gloss, non metalflake Cadillac offered in 2003. Looks great!
Lou: Black is super easy! I have a high gloss black in stock that I have used a lot. It matches the high gloss, non metalflake Cadillac offered in 2003. Looks great!
what better powder coating or a regular paint job with clear coat.
05-11-2003, 07:15 PM
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: palatine, il
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lou: As a typical cost saving measure, wheels are powder coated with a low gloss black, and cured. Then they are repainted with a high gloss clear, and the overall effect is that of high gloss black.
Thought you should know. Dave.
Thought you should know. Dave.
05-11-2003, 07:20 PM
#13
Administrator Alumnus
How the hell would you clean a caliper to the point where there is ZERO dirt on it? And do it in a timely manner?
I could see myself doing this, but getting the calipers CLEAN, getting them to Dave and getting them back without interupting my driving (nned my CL 24x7x365)....
Dave???
I could see myself doing this, but getting the calipers CLEAN, getting them to Dave and getting them back without interupting my driving (nned my CL 24x7x365)....
Dave???
05-11-2003, 07:45 PM
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: palatine, il
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Scrib: Since you are "essentially" local, this is not a big thing. If you can get me clean calipers to glenview, il, I can turn them around in two hours.
"clean" to a guy who paints for a living means a lot. That is how paint sticks. No offense, but I hope you take this correctly, if you give me shit to paint, I will return to you painted over shit, and expect paint adhesion problems. Pure and simple, not trying to be a smartass. This can be done easy, we just need to co-ordinate.
"clean" to a guy who paints for a living means a lot. That is how paint sticks. No offense, but I hope you take this correctly, if you give me shit to paint, I will return to you painted over shit, and expect paint adhesion problems. Pure and simple, not trying to be a smartass. This can be done easy, we just need to co-ordinate.
05-11-2003, 08:20 PM
#15
Go Cubs!!!
Join Date: May 2002
Location: orlando
Age: 44
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would want this done, what exactly would i need to purchase so that you can do this?
My only problem would probably being without my car for a certain amount of time...........is there a way i could send my back calipers and drive with them off, then when they are done, put them on my front and send the other calipers in? would that work?
My only problem would probably being without my car for a certain amount of time...........is there a way i could send my back calipers and drive with them off, then when they are done, put them on my front and send the other calipers in? would that work?
05-11-2003, 09:57 PM
#16
TRELOS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: S. WPB Fla.
Posts: 1,752
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok here is what I got to know. Once I take off the calipers, and throughly clean them, do I then need to send them out to be sand blasted? I believe that there needs to be one more step to throughly cleaning the calipers one I am done cleaning them myself.
Juker008
Juker008
05-12-2003, 04:06 AM
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: palatine, il
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Juke and 3.2CLS: Juke: solvent clean inside and out, to get rid of all traces of brake fluid, which is an oil. Paint will not stick to oil, and to get rid of all grease, tar, etc. This is an ORGANIC contaminant, Then, mask cylinder bores and sandblast the outside surfaces. This gets rid of all INORGANIC contaminats (rust and oxides). Put in a plastic bag, and seal, and ship. You are done.
3.2: I SUPPOSE you could plug the rear lines, but I would certainly not advise it. If I were you, I would lay the car up, and live with bearing the cost of UPS next day air here and back. Theoritically, the turn around time would be two days. We are talking about brakes here guys. This is a safety issue! Lets not cut corners here. But I know where you are coming from. When I had the wheels done, my car was on Jack stands for 15 days, but I had a car to borrow, a 99 TL, so, the pain wasn't so bad.
I would also shudder to think what the computer controlled brake system sensors would think about being fooled by pulgging the brake lines. This might be like going on a looping roller coaster without seat belts. If it were me, NOT!
3.2: I SUPPOSE you could plug the rear lines, but I would certainly not advise it. If I were you, I would lay the car up, and live with bearing the cost of UPS next day air here and back. Theoritically, the turn around time would be two days. We are talking about brakes here guys. This is a safety issue! Lets not cut corners here. But I know where you are coming from. When I had the wheels done, my car was on Jack stands for 15 days, but I had a car to borrow, a 99 TL, so, the pain wasn't so bad.
I would also shudder to think what the computer controlled brake system sensors would think about being fooled by pulgging the brake lines. This might be like going on a looping roller coaster without seat belts. If it were me, NOT!
05-12-2003, 05:21 AM
#18
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,335
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dfreder do you think its better to buy a new metal piece that holds the calipers up so you can powder coat them with the 5 year coating. What exactly needs to be powder coated Im sure the calipers will be squeaky clean brand new. Ill check on what I need to buy and see if this is a good alternative that way my car has no down time.
05-12-2003, 06:54 AM
#19
A-CL Junkie
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Columbus OH
Age: 49
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dfreder370, could you do them in agean blue? or at least a similar blue to match my ride? and do you or anyone have any idea how much the calipers weigh for shipping purposes?
05-12-2003, 07:39 AM
#20
'Cooter
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Shitside, Queens
Age: 46
Posts: 11,172
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Re: Powder coated brake calipers
Originally posted by lou
count me in for sure for the rear calipers in black color to match my Brembo....
count me in for sure for the rear calipers in black color to match my Brembo....
sorry, just had to
yeah im interested as well...i have my black caliper paint kit at home now and was planning on painting in 2 weeks time...hmmmm decisions decisions...if i uninstall the calipers and Express mail them to u (i don't care how much the cost cuz i need them back ASAP), how fast can u get them back to me (Long Island, NY)??...i'll pay for Xpress return as well
how bout this...suppose we negotiate on u acquiring a set of calipers, powdercoat em, and send them to me, and i'll pay for everything?? that way, my daily driver won't b out of commission, and u'll have a brand spankin new set of clean calipers (as opposed to 3-year old ones)...lemme price check a set and go from there
05-13-2003, 02:35 PM
#21
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: palatine, il
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Guys: I will get back to you about your questions on Thursday (today is Tuesday).
My company Patent Society (of which I am a member) meets tomorrow night at the Museum of Science and Industry. Tomorrow for me starts at 6 am and gets over about midnight.
One of the things we created last year was Hobart powder coated food mixers, and we will have one on display there. There will be about 500 people there, and at the last minute, one of the executives suggested we use the mixer to make whip cream for strawberry shortcake FOR 500 PEOPLE!!!!!!!!!!
So, right now, I am in the midst of preparing 50 lbs(!) of strawberries for this last minute rush. Talking about running around like a chicken with its head cut off. Scheesh!
I WILL get back to you. Glad the interest is high.
My company Patent Society (of which I am a member) meets tomorrow night at the Museum of Science and Industry. Tomorrow for me starts at 6 am and gets over about midnight.
One of the things we created last year was Hobart powder coated food mixers, and we will have one on display there. There will be about 500 people there, and at the last minute, one of the executives suggested we use the mixer to make whip cream for strawberry shortcake FOR 500 PEOPLE!!!!!!!!!!
So, right now, I am in the midst of preparing 50 lbs(!) of strawberries for this last minute rush. Talking about running around like a chicken with its head cut off. Scheesh!
I WILL get back to you. Glad the interest is high.
05-13-2003, 04:01 PM
#22
Burning Brakes
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Park Ridge, IL 60068
Age: 72
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dfreder 370
I was at the last car show, I am in silver, Ino were your at in glenview ,I am in park ridge about 20min down waukegan.
email me vittallosr@attbi.com
i have the red cls
I was at the last car show, I am in silver, Ino were your at in glenview ,I am in park ridge about 20min down waukegan.
email me vittallosr@attbi.com
i have the red cls
05-13-2003, 08:47 PM
#24
Instructor
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: LA
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Re: Re: Powder coated brake calipers
Originally posted by Scooter
hehe, make sure u enclose a BREMBO stencil and some white paint
sorry, just had to
yeah im interested as well...i have my black caliper paint kit at home now and was planning on painting in 2 weeks time...hmmmm decisions decisions...if i uninstall the calipers and Express mail them to u (i don't care how much the cost cuz i need them back ASAP), how fast can u get them back to me (Long Island, NY)??...i'll pay for Xpress return as well
how bout this...suppose we negotiate on u acquiring a set of calipers, powdercoat em, and send them to me, and i'll pay for everything?? that way, my daily driver won't b out of commission, and u'll have a brand spankin new set of clean calipers (as opposed to 3-year old ones)...lemme price check a set and go from there
hehe, make sure u enclose a BREMBO stencil and some white paint
sorry, just had to
yeah im interested as well...i have my black caliper paint kit at home now and was planning on painting in 2 weeks time...hmmmm decisions decisions...if i uninstall the calipers and Express mail them to u (i don't care how much the cost cuz i need them back ASAP), how fast can u get them back to me (Long Island, NY)??...i'll pay for Xpress return as well
how bout this...suppose we negotiate on u acquiring a set of calipers, powdercoat em, and send them to me, and i'll pay for everything?? that way, my daily driver won't b out of commission, and u'll have a brand spankin new set of clean calipers (as opposed to 3-year old ones)...lemme price check a set and go from there
05-15-2003, 10:13 AM
#25
'Cooter
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Shitside, Queens
Age: 46
Posts: 11,172
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just got off the phone with Advanced Surface Finishing Inc based out on Long Island...the guy who helped me sprays and is also a car mechanic...according to him, there's a risk for doing this...risk is when u put the calipers back together, there's a good chance the gap for the piston's won't b factory spec, increasing the chance for lockup or not enough power from the piston to the pad, essentially making the brakes useless...and i personally don't wanna mess with factory specs on the caliper pistons
can anyone confirm this???
can anyone confirm this???
05-15-2003, 10:17 AM
#26
The Creator
i believe thats totally impossible scooter...
for one... our piston is long enough to go from one side of the caliper to the other if there was no rotor in place... so theres no lack of room.
second... this would mean that your brakes would be useless as soon as some of the surface wore off your pads.
the amount of "gap" this could add anywhere to your calipers would be hardly measureable.
i think that guy just had a misguided theory.
for one... our piston is long enough to go from one side of the caliper to the other if there was no rotor in place... so theres no lack of room.
second... this would mean that your brakes would be useless as soon as some of the surface wore off your pads.
the amount of "gap" this could add anywhere to your calipers would be hardly measureable.
i think that guy just had a misguided theory.
05-15-2003, 05:18 PM
#27
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: palatine, il
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Guys, I am back, but very worn out. Long day yesterday.
About the caliper bore question. I would entirely mask the entire caliper bore with a high temperature (good to 550 f) mylar masking tape that I have in stock from a company named Shercon. It leaves NO adhesive residue. I would also mask the circumference of the bore seal area. Also the landing area that that seal sits in.
I considered ALL aspects of brake safety before I even offered this up, and this can be safely done.
About the only difference between my one at a time method, versus porsche or corvette mass manufactured powder coated brake calipers is that porsche and chevy will pay Shercon to develop a reuseable pulg such that masking areas that paint is not wanted in takes seconds to insert a plug. I will have to use masking tape and a razor blade to insure a good job. No big deal.
I can see interest here is high. I think what is best for us is for me to contact johntypes. His workplace is 5 minutes away from mine, and he has a very good connection to an Acura dealer. Again, five minutes away.
After I email him, I propose we can lay his car up and I can powder coat a caliper/mounting bracket/springs, etc, and see if he is happy with it. If so, and I assume he will, I can still get the other three done for him before his shift is over.
Then, all you guys who are sitting on the fence (and I don't blame you), will have a second opinion, and we will all be happier.
On page one, smitty (god bless ya), posted a picture of my new powder coated black pearl wheels that were sent to california to be powder coated by others, ONLY because I do not have a vaccum deposition chamber where they vaporize nickle and chrome to get the mirror like look. There is a base powder coat, then metalization (can't do), and then a clear acrylic top powder coat.
Like some of you, I had to think this out. Will the rims scratch when mounting the tires? Will the tires even mount (due to an increased diameter of .016"? Will the wheels "wobble", due to the coating being possibly uneven where the wheel mates to the rotor? The answers were no, no and no. The first two where non factors, and number three was a non issue as that part of the wheel sits on a stand and the coating cannot go there. So, it was thought out, just like I thought out the (very observant) caliper bore question.
Let me talk to John, and I will reply after he replys to me. If it all goes well, I will put up a post that describes how to do this, from start to end. This is not hard to do at all guys. Probably the hardest part is to specify a paint color that matches your needs.
I know I missed some of your questions. Gimme 24-48 hours, and I will answer them all.
And Ahmad, yes. Entirely possible. But, also, possibly political job suicide for me. I have to ask some questions.
About the caliper bore question. I would entirely mask the entire caliper bore with a high temperature (good to 550 f) mylar masking tape that I have in stock from a company named Shercon. It leaves NO adhesive residue. I would also mask the circumference of the bore seal area. Also the landing area that that seal sits in.
I considered ALL aspects of brake safety before I even offered this up, and this can be safely done.
About the only difference between my one at a time method, versus porsche or corvette mass manufactured powder coated brake calipers is that porsche and chevy will pay Shercon to develop a reuseable pulg such that masking areas that paint is not wanted in takes seconds to insert a plug. I will have to use masking tape and a razor blade to insure a good job. No big deal.
I can see interest here is high. I think what is best for us is for me to contact johntypes. His workplace is 5 minutes away from mine, and he has a very good connection to an Acura dealer. Again, five minutes away.
After I email him, I propose we can lay his car up and I can powder coat a caliper/mounting bracket/springs, etc, and see if he is happy with it. If so, and I assume he will, I can still get the other three done for him before his shift is over.
Then, all you guys who are sitting on the fence (and I don't blame you), will have a second opinion, and we will all be happier.
On page one, smitty (god bless ya), posted a picture of my new powder coated black pearl wheels that were sent to california to be powder coated by others, ONLY because I do not have a vaccum deposition chamber where they vaporize nickle and chrome to get the mirror like look. There is a base powder coat, then metalization (can't do), and then a clear acrylic top powder coat.
Like some of you, I had to think this out. Will the rims scratch when mounting the tires? Will the tires even mount (due to an increased diameter of .016"? Will the wheels "wobble", due to the coating being possibly uneven where the wheel mates to the rotor? The answers were no, no and no. The first two where non factors, and number three was a non issue as that part of the wheel sits on a stand and the coating cannot go there. So, it was thought out, just like I thought out the (very observant) caliper bore question.
Let me talk to John, and I will reply after he replys to me. If it all goes well, I will put up a post that describes how to do this, from start to end. This is not hard to do at all guys. Probably the hardest part is to specify a paint color that matches your needs.
I know I missed some of your questions. Gimme 24-48 hours, and I will answer them all.
And Ahmad, yes. Entirely possible. But, also, possibly political job suicide for me. I have to ask some questions.
05-16-2003, 12:13 AM
#29
TRELOS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: S. WPB Fla.
Posts: 1,752
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Scooter
just got off the phone with Advanced Surface Finishing Inc based out on Long Island...the guy who helped me sprays and is also a car mechanic...according to him, there's a risk for doing this...risk is when u put the calipers back together, there's a good chance the gap for the piston's won't b factory spec, increasing the chance for lockup or not enough power from the piston to the pad, essentially making the brakes useless...and i personally don't wanna mess with factory specs on the caliper pistons
can anyone confirm this???
just got off the phone with Advanced Surface Finishing Inc based out on Long Island...the guy who helped me sprays and is also a car mechanic...according to him, there's a risk for doing this...risk is when u put the calipers back together, there's a good chance the gap for the piston's won't b factory spec, increasing the chance for lockup or not enough power from the piston to the pad, essentially making the brakes useless...and i personally don't wanna mess with factory specs on the caliper pistons
can anyone confirm this???
Hey whats up Scoot,
Actually dfreder said that once the caliper is cleaned u need to mask off the cylinder bores and have it sandblasted. I would recomend pluging up the screw/bolt holes or any other hole on the caliper that is used for the braking system. Once they are sandblasted, depending on how well the masking held up they are ready to be powder coated. If the masking was loosend by the sand blasting, remasking needs to be done again.
So all that is ever powder coated is the outside of the calipers. If the bores were PC then the pistons would never be able to fit back into the bores.
Juker008
05-16-2003, 04:00 PM
#30
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: palatine, il
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Guys: JohntypeS cam to visit me at work today and I gave him a demo on how powder coating works, plus I showed him what I believe to be some nicely painted castings. Sounds like we will paint his calipers next Saturday, 5/24.
Besides you paying the shipping costs there and back, for you out of towners, I will have to send you color charts from powder coating maunfacturers so YOU will be satisfied with your color and gloss levels. I do not imagine postage both ways would top $4 or $5.
This WILL work guys. I just want to do one set of calipers first to see if we run into any fit issues. If we do, it is just a matter of applying more masking tape here and there.
One final word about shipping. I shipped four 26 pound wheels to California by UPS surface. Cost was $32, shipping weight: 110 pounds.
I needed them back in a hurry to show a business associate, so I sprung for next day air. Yikes! $376!
And if you are wondering why I do not PC my own calipers, I would have to put the car up again, and ship the Calipers to california, again, and I can't afford the down time. And I cannot duplicate the metalization middle step.
JohntypeS said he would post his reflections of the process sometime today. On the weekend, probably tomorrow, I will address everybodys individual questions. But now it is time to kick back, make a decent meal and have a few beers. In the last four weeks, I have had 59 hours worth of over time, so bear with me.
Besides you paying the shipping costs there and back, for you out of towners, I will have to send you color charts from powder coating maunfacturers so YOU will be satisfied with your color and gloss levels. I do not imagine postage both ways would top $4 or $5.
This WILL work guys. I just want to do one set of calipers first to see if we run into any fit issues. If we do, it is just a matter of applying more masking tape here and there.
One final word about shipping. I shipped four 26 pound wheels to California by UPS surface. Cost was $32, shipping weight: 110 pounds.
I needed them back in a hurry to show a business associate, so I sprung for next day air. Yikes! $376!
And if you are wondering why I do not PC my own calipers, I would have to put the car up again, and ship the Calipers to california, again, and I can't afford the down time. And I cannot duplicate the metalization middle step.
JohntypeS said he would post his reflections of the process sometime today. On the weekend, probably tomorrow, I will address everybodys individual questions. But now it is time to kick back, make a decent meal and have a few beers. In the last four weeks, I have had 59 hours worth of over time, so bear with me.
05-17-2003, 06:28 PM
#32
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: palatine, il
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK guys: I think at this point a summary would be useful. I se a few issues here, and I do not know the character length allowed to be posted, so you might get this in two or maybe three parts. I will try to answer all questions from the start of the thread.
But first, I want you all to understand that I thought the safety issues through first and foremost.
Your calipers will not be affected, heat treating wise, until the caliper reaches north of 700 degrees F. Powder coating cure temperatures (it depends on what powder you pick) will be 375 F, +/- 50 degrees F.
Your powder coated calipers will "grow" in all exterior dimensions by .002 to .004" inches. These are THOUSANTHS of an inch. No biggie.
All critical dimensional areas will be either masked (piston(s) bores) with a high temperature masking tape designed for powder coating by me, and threaded bolt holes will be plugged by me with clean bolts which I have at work. I will not strip or cross thread your bolt holes. These, with the exception of the bleeder fitting (pipe thread) are actually clearance holes that have no threads.
I can see many of you have issues with downtime, and that is completely understandable. I cannot help where you live in relation to Chicago, but I promise you, your calipers, springs, brackets will be painted and returned the same day they are received. I have a UPS drop off station within two miles of both my home and place of work. For you who are many miles away, shipping is a matter of money. I found out that UPS next day air costs TEN TIMES+ what UPS ground costs.
Your calipers need to be really clean if you want a good job done. I will cover that shortly. Do not send me any calipers with any rubber seals or boots on them. They will melt in the curing process!
And please, do not send me any brackets, bolts, etc, that are not visible from the outside of the car. That is just extra work for me, and benefits no one.
Another point regarding shipping. I am pretty sure that you can go to UPS (or whoever you choose) not only to have your parts shipped to me, but you can ask them to include a return label for me to get them back to you. That way, we are not exchanging money, and I do not have to worry about getting burned on return shipping costs. In fact, this is the only way I will do this.
Color: I have high gloss black, white, and a nice metalflake silver in stock. Those are all nice, neutral choices. But if you must match your exterior color, I can do that, but it adds some hassle.
There exists somethin called RAL colors, which are standard colors around the world. You can view these at www.spraylat.com to get an idea, but I do NOT think you can evaluate the gloss unless you have a HP Photoprinter (or the like) on photo paper. In that case, I will need to mail you a color chart that represents the color AND the gloss. You will have to cover the postage, both ways.
Please, if you need a custom color, do not send me any parts until I notify you that I have the powder. Otherwise, your downtime will only increase.
Guarantee: None! Nada! Zip! After all, what do you want for free? But, I know what I am doing, and these should be a snap to do. All I need is a metal part that is groundable, and to heat it to a high enough temperature for long enough, about an hour. The coating should last 5 to 10 years, and I will cover why that is is the next post. This one is getting long. However, if you are unhappy with the job due to color match or gloss match, I will gladly re do them. You just gotta clean them, again, so select correctly, the first time. Keep in mind, regarding color, you only need to be "close". There is a good 12 inches between your calipers and your car body. I will post an extention of this thread and answer questions in about a hour. Time now in Chicago is 6:20 p.m.
Once again, I can do this for free, and am happy to do it, because it is very easy for me to do, and I can get as many paint samples for free also. More coming regarding questions, and we will start with Smitty. JohntypeS and I plan to photodocument the process, so smitty, I need you again. Thanks in advance.
But first, I want you all to understand that I thought the safety issues through first and foremost.
Your calipers will not be affected, heat treating wise, until the caliper reaches north of 700 degrees F. Powder coating cure temperatures (it depends on what powder you pick) will be 375 F, +/- 50 degrees F.
Your powder coated calipers will "grow" in all exterior dimensions by .002 to .004" inches. These are THOUSANTHS of an inch. No biggie.
All critical dimensional areas will be either masked (piston(s) bores) with a high temperature masking tape designed for powder coating by me, and threaded bolt holes will be plugged by me with clean bolts which I have at work. I will not strip or cross thread your bolt holes. These, with the exception of the bleeder fitting (pipe thread) are actually clearance holes that have no threads.
I can see many of you have issues with downtime, and that is completely understandable. I cannot help where you live in relation to Chicago, but I promise you, your calipers, springs, brackets will be painted and returned the same day they are received. I have a UPS drop off station within two miles of both my home and place of work. For you who are many miles away, shipping is a matter of money. I found out that UPS next day air costs TEN TIMES+ what UPS ground costs.
Your calipers need to be really clean if you want a good job done. I will cover that shortly. Do not send me any calipers with any rubber seals or boots on them. They will melt in the curing process!
And please, do not send me any brackets, bolts, etc, that are not visible from the outside of the car. That is just extra work for me, and benefits no one.
Another point regarding shipping. I am pretty sure that you can go to UPS (or whoever you choose) not only to have your parts shipped to me, but you can ask them to include a return label for me to get them back to you. That way, we are not exchanging money, and I do not have to worry about getting burned on return shipping costs. In fact, this is the only way I will do this.
Color: I have high gloss black, white, and a nice metalflake silver in stock. Those are all nice, neutral choices. But if you must match your exterior color, I can do that, but it adds some hassle.
There exists somethin called RAL colors, which are standard colors around the world. You can view these at www.spraylat.com to get an idea, but I do NOT think you can evaluate the gloss unless you have a HP Photoprinter (or the like) on photo paper. In that case, I will need to mail you a color chart that represents the color AND the gloss. You will have to cover the postage, both ways.
Please, if you need a custom color, do not send me any parts until I notify you that I have the powder. Otherwise, your downtime will only increase.
Guarantee: None! Nada! Zip! After all, what do you want for free? But, I know what I am doing, and these should be a snap to do. All I need is a metal part that is groundable, and to heat it to a high enough temperature for long enough, about an hour. The coating should last 5 to 10 years, and I will cover why that is is the next post. This one is getting long. However, if you are unhappy with the job due to color match or gloss match, I will gladly re do them. You just gotta clean them, again, so select correctly, the first time. Keep in mind, regarding color, you only need to be "close". There is a good 12 inches between your calipers and your car body. I will post an extention of this thread and answer questions in about a hour. Time now in Chicago is 6:20 p.m.
Once again, I can do this for free, and am happy to do it, because it is very easy for me to do, and I can get as many paint samples for free also. More coming regarding questions, and we will start with Smitty. JohntypeS and I plan to photodocument the process, so smitty, I need you again. Thanks in advance.
05-17-2003, 08:03 PM
#33
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: palatine, il
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK: a little more about cleaning, then answers to questions. Look at new calipers on any new Acura. They will have a yellowisg/gold/bule tint to them. That, is chromate. And we want to preserve it if we can, if not, no big deal. It goes away over about one to three years. Chromate is an inorganic coating, so cleaning chemical solvents will not damage it. So, if your calipers are fairly new, chemically clean them only. But, if the chromate looks bad (rusted, or white spotted, which is oxides, you need to get them sandblasted. The proper tape can be obtained from www.shercom.com (get the green mylar stuff), or, in a pinch, you can use duct tape. If you use duct tape, make sure you solvent clean the piston bores to squeaky clean, because if not, that adhesive will be pretty hard to remove after it is baked on at 375 F for one hour.
Shipping: put them in a heavy thickness ziplock bag with a slider, or, bubble wrap, put in a garbage bag, and use a nylon wire tie to keep out moisture. Ship to me.
Questions, from the top of the first page:
Smitty: I can do them in an hour, and they will be ready to ship in two hours. Your turnaround time depends upon your shipping method.
Soopa: OK, fine by me. What color do you want?
Lou: I am sure this can be done, and I have a nice, high gloss black in stock. The black will not require a clear coat to make it glossy. It already is glossy.
Scrib: Clean chemically first. Then if not really clean, sandblast or wire brush. Sandblasting is superior to a wire brush. You are pretty close, we can knock this out on a Saturday if you come to Glenview.
3.2CL-S. Not advisable, and no purchase necessary, except noted in the post above.
Juker008: blasting is good assurance, but if they are free of grease and oil, and the chromate coating (which may have faded by now) shows no rust or ruptures, you are ready to go.
Lou: regarding the bracket, don't waste your money. Car manufacturers do not want their brakes rusting to death. Painting brand new brake calipers is the best of both worlds for you and me.
Maybere: I'd have to send you a color chart so you are happy with the match, but, yes, we can.
Scooter: Black is in stock and easy.
Ahmad310: The short answer is yes, I could. But the correct answer is no, I will not. My company is sending me there to advise on how to change the finish on our highest profit margin product. If any word got back to my boss that I was doing this on company time, at someone we consider to be our CUSTOMER, things could turn nasty for me, like as in, lose my job. Sorry, too risky.
CL: Clueless about the price of new calipers.
Scooter: I have covered that. The bore will be masked and the pistons will NOT be painted, either.
I know I missed something here. Someone asked me if I would buy a completely new set of calipers, and he would reimburse me. The answer is no. But if YOU wish to purchase a new set of calipers from Acura or whoever nearby, yes, I will pick them up and do it.
Remember guys, this is a good faith offer. I do not wish to turn this thing into a money exchange house. That was not the intention. I gotta go. Bad chest cold. Will check back in another 12 or 18 hours or so. If I missed your question, please repost it.
And whoever asked about my wheel coating, www.goodrichtechnology.com and tell gary goodrich that dave says hi. $500 for four wheels. You pay shipping. You also need to make 1 mm thick aluminum discs to be coated also. Then, epoxy them to your original wheel centers. Do not send Goodrich your plastic, $28 each wheel centers to be coated. They will melt. Make decals to match your wheel centers by removing a wheel center and have it scanned in at the pinstripe shop via computer. They stick on with pressure sensitive adhesive. Get four times more than you need, these are hard to center. I paid $25 for 16 decals. You can see the finished wheels in the archives with the centers applied, or, maybe smitty has a saved photo, and he can send it to you.
Shipping: put them in a heavy thickness ziplock bag with a slider, or, bubble wrap, put in a garbage bag, and use a nylon wire tie to keep out moisture. Ship to me.
Questions, from the top of the first page:
Smitty: I can do them in an hour, and they will be ready to ship in two hours. Your turnaround time depends upon your shipping method.
Soopa: OK, fine by me. What color do you want?
Lou: I am sure this can be done, and I have a nice, high gloss black in stock. The black will not require a clear coat to make it glossy. It already is glossy.
Scrib: Clean chemically first. Then if not really clean, sandblast or wire brush. Sandblasting is superior to a wire brush. You are pretty close, we can knock this out on a Saturday if you come to Glenview.
3.2CL-S. Not advisable, and no purchase necessary, except noted in the post above.
Juker008: blasting is good assurance, but if they are free of grease and oil, and the chromate coating (which may have faded by now) shows no rust or ruptures, you are ready to go.
Lou: regarding the bracket, don't waste your money. Car manufacturers do not want their brakes rusting to death. Painting brand new brake calipers is the best of both worlds for you and me.
Maybere: I'd have to send you a color chart so you are happy with the match, but, yes, we can.
Scooter: Black is in stock and easy.
Ahmad310: The short answer is yes, I could. But the correct answer is no, I will not. My company is sending me there to advise on how to change the finish on our highest profit margin product. If any word got back to my boss that I was doing this on company time, at someone we consider to be our CUSTOMER, things could turn nasty for me, like as in, lose my job. Sorry, too risky.
CL: Clueless about the price of new calipers.
Scooter: I have covered that. The bore will be masked and the pistons will NOT be painted, either.
I know I missed something here. Someone asked me if I would buy a completely new set of calipers, and he would reimburse me. The answer is no. But if YOU wish to purchase a new set of calipers from Acura or whoever nearby, yes, I will pick them up and do it.
Remember guys, this is a good faith offer. I do not wish to turn this thing into a money exchange house. That was not the intention. I gotta go. Bad chest cold. Will check back in another 12 or 18 hours or so. If I missed your question, please repost it.
And whoever asked about my wheel coating, www.goodrichtechnology.com and tell gary goodrich that dave says hi. $500 for four wheels. You pay shipping. You also need to make 1 mm thick aluminum discs to be coated also. Then, epoxy them to your original wheel centers. Do not send Goodrich your plastic, $28 each wheel centers to be coated. They will melt. Make decals to match your wheel centers by removing a wheel center and have it scanned in at the pinstripe shop via computer. They stick on with pressure sensitive adhesive. Get four times more than you need, these are hard to center. I paid $25 for 16 decals. You can see the finished wheels in the archives with the centers applied, or, maybe smitty has a saved photo, and he can send it to you.
05-18-2003, 02:53 PM
#34
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: palatine, il
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
JohntypeS finally replied. His post is on page 1. It took him a while to reply because he had a son or daughter who graduated this weekend. I think you will find it without help from me.
05-18-2003, 09:26 PM
#35
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Lubbock, TX
Posts: 1,219
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've had my brakes powder coated for like 3 years. They still look good overall, but some parts have started to fade I think. Probably cuz I have to clean them. I did them in Arctic silver. If you want to get them looking good, it's going to take a long time to sand them smooth.
also, don't try powdercoating the rotors. I tried that, and it flakes off real quick. Guess it gets really hot.
also, don't try powdercoating the rotors. I tried that, and it flakes off real quick. Guess it gets really hot.
05-19-2003, 04:52 AM
#36
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: palatine, il
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1999tl: what kind of chemistry did you specify? And who made the arctic silver? But you make a good point for all others to follow. CLEAN before the paint is applied is PARAMOUNT!
And I did mention sanding in a reply above. Paint will mirror the surface below it!
I am also a member of the EAA (experimental aircraft association) and a former flight instructor, but I do not own an aircraft, homebuilt or otherwise. But it is common for people to build airplanes, and it takes a good three years or so, assuming you work on it 30 hours a week. When the builder says "Well, the airplane is complete, all I have to do now is paint it."
This usually means he has 3 MONTHS(!) of surface preparation to do, followed by a day or two of painting, and if traditional (tried and true) finishes are used, there may be three months of work after that! The paint may have to be "rubbed out" with rubbing compound. It is all surface preparation folks! Plain and simple.
And no, do not paint the rotors. It is not that it cannot be done. I have high temperature powder coatings that will take 1,000 f, but these coatings are FUNCTIONAL and not decorative. In a word, fugly. But what does this (or any) paint in is the inevitable interface of the raw steel and the coated rotor. "Creep" under the paint edge will eventually flake the paint.
And I did mention sanding in a reply above. Paint will mirror the surface below it!
I am also a member of the EAA (experimental aircraft association) and a former flight instructor, but I do not own an aircraft, homebuilt or otherwise. But it is common for people to build airplanes, and it takes a good three years or so, assuming you work on it 30 hours a week. When the builder says "Well, the airplane is complete, all I have to do now is paint it."
This usually means he has 3 MONTHS(!) of surface preparation to do, followed by a day or two of painting, and if traditional (tried and true) finishes are used, there may be three months of work after that! The paint may have to be "rubbed out" with rubbing compound. It is all surface preparation folks! Plain and simple.
And no, do not paint the rotors. It is not that it cannot be done. I have high temperature powder coatings that will take 1,000 f, but these coatings are FUNCTIONAL and not decorative. In a word, fugly. But what does this (or any) paint in is the inevitable interface of the raw steel and the coated rotor. "Creep" under the paint edge will eventually flake the paint.
05-19-2003, 09:13 AM
#37
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Lubbock, TX
Posts: 1,219
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm not sure really what he used, I'll have to ask him. It was a guy in the miata club in Houston that did it. he used a powdersander where he could hit it on the front of the brakes to make it smooth. He said that took forever because it is really really hard. When you compare the really smooth parts to the other parts, I wish I would have taken the time to sand the whole thing smooth.
I powdercoated the hub of the rotor since it was rusty by the way.
I powdercoated the hub of the rotor since it was rusty by the way.
05-19-2003, 11:13 AM
#38
Drifting
this whole powder-coating idea sounds awesome - has anyone been able to price out new rotors? there's no way i can be out my car for that long a time period to get them done
05-19-2003, 12:00 PM
#39
'Cooter
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Shitside, Queens
Age: 46
Posts: 11,172
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by cmark
this whole powder-coating idea sounds awesome - has anyone been able to price out new rotors? there's no way i can be out my car for that long a time period to get them done
this whole powder-coating idea sounds awesome - has anyone been able to price out new rotors? there's no way i can be out my car for that long a time period to get them done
i already brough yer point up...it's just hella $$$ of a sacrifice to send new calipers as opposed to current ones...so i'm exploring local places to powdercoat in a day...i'd suggest u look around also
05-20-2003, 04:16 AM
#40
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: palatine, il
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Scoot: I talked to gary goodrich, the guy who black pearl chrome powder coated my wheels about doing my calipers. He quoted me $50 each, which I consider to be a great deal also. Remember, this is a 3 coat process, compared to your one coat. I am sure Gary is giving me a price break for being a repeat customer. So, like I said, go for it.!