POLL: Warped Brake Rotors
POLL: Warped Brake Rotors
My rotors warped @ 15K miles and the dealer reluctantly resurfaced them. They are now severly warped again and I know the dealer will not pay for it. I would like to approach Acura on this, and possibly get a tech bulletin issued (yeah right).
Anyway, who out there has had this problem and how many times?
Also, I am looking for replacement rotors/pads other than Acura OEM - Anybody replace theirs? Recommendations? Thanks.
Anthony
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Anthony
Anyway, who out there has had this problem and how many times?
Also, I am looking for replacement rotors/pads other than Acura OEM - Anybody replace theirs? Recommendations? Thanks.
Anthony
------------------
Anthony
I had the same problem, but with my 98 Sebring. My driving habits were a lot different with that car though.
If you're an aggressive, speedy driver, I would replace the rotors with more high performance ones. Yeh, they cost a lot more but are well worth the $$$ in the long run.
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2001 Acura 3.2CL Type-S
Satin Silver/Ebony
No Navi/No Spoiler
Competch springs
35% tint
PIAA 19169 bulbs
K&N 33-2178 air filter
The Aviation Zone
If you're an aggressive, speedy driver, I would replace the rotors with more high performance ones. Yeh, they cost a lot more but are well worth the $$$ in the long run.
------------------
2001 Acura 3.2CL Type-S
Satin Silver/Ebony
No Navi/No Spoiler
Competch springs
35% tint
PIAA 19169 bulbs
K&N 33-2178 air filter
The Aviation Zone
Mine warped at 17K miles.
Acura re-surfaced them...I was thinking about going back to ask for new ones cuz I don't wanna get stuck paying for new rotors as soon as warrenty runs out....
Any tips?
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RUVZ
01' 3.2CL Type S - Satin Silver - Polarg M6 roadlamps
Acura re-surfaced them...I was thinking about going back to ask for new ones cuz I don't wanna get stuck paying for new rotors as soon as warrenty runs out....
Any tips?
------------------
RUVZ
01' 3.2CL Type S - Satin Silver - Polarg M6 roadlamps
Had my rotors resurfaced last week under warranty, but the service rep didn't give me a hard time. Of course I slipped him a bottle of Cognac for XMAS and he'll get another for the 4th of July. 
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2001 Satin Silver Cl Type S.
Comptech:Headers, Springs & Sways
AEM CAI
Toyo T1S Proxys 235/45/17
SSR Competition wheels 17x8
35% Llumar metallic tint
My Car

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2001 Satin Silver Cl Type S.
Comptech:Headers, Springs & Sways
AEM CAI
Toyo T1S Proxys 235/45/17
SSR Competition wheels 17x8
35% Llumar metallic tint
My Car
teh Senior Instigator
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 44,094
Likes: 980
From: Huntington Beach, CA -> Ashburn, VA -> Raleigh, NC -> Walnut Creek, CA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Mike:
Had my rotors resurfaced last week under warranty, but the service rep didn't give me a hard time. Of course I slipped him a bottle of Cognac for XMAS and he'll get another for the 4th of July.
</font>
Had my rotors resurfaced last week under warranty, but the service rep didn't give me a hard time. Of course I slipped him a bottle of Cognac for XMAS and he'll get another for the 4th of July.

</font>
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my mom and bestfriend have told me to tell you guys to stop telling me to spend my money; they are tired of my automobiles getting pampered and them getting whats left over which usually consists of change I find in my car by doing things you guys encourage
YUP 
Next time I want the BS banner!!!

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2001 Satin Silver Cl Type S.
Comptech:Headers, Springs & Sways
AEM CAI
Toyo T1S Proxys 235/45/17
SSR Competition wheels 17x8
35% Llumar metallic tint
My Car
how would you know if the rotors are warped or need resurfacing? does it vibrate really violently or does it make odd noises?
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CL-P....icy white!
moon roof visor
mud guards
genuine acura nose mask
genuine acura burlwood shift knob
polarg m-12 on blinkers
m-4s on internal lamps
m-4 on rear plate lamp
piaa bulbs on road lamps
zaino polish
"i drive it like my grandma....j/k"
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CL-P....icy white!
moon roof visor
mud guards
genuine acura nose mask
genuine acura burlwood shift knob
polarg m-12 on blinkers
m-4s on internal lamps
m-4 on rear plate lamp
piaa bulbs on road lamps
zaino polish
"i drive it like my grandma....j/k"
Trending Topics
My current car (94 Ford Tbird) has this problem. My front brakes warp faster than you can believe. I've only got one good suggestion to keep your rotors alive longer - get a torque wrench.
If you don't know, a torque wrench appears to be a rather large socket wrench with a dial-in setting for the maximum amount of torque it will allow you to tighten a nut to. Track down the factory specification for torque on the lug nuts (Jens? Wayne?) and adjust the lug nuts yourself every time your wheels are put back on. The problem is that air-powered guns aren't always that accurate - one lug nut might get tighened way too much, another one just barely enough, and this can really screw up the brake rotors. This isn't a solution to the problem, but it will help the lifespan of your rotors.
Hope this helps!
If you don't know, a torque wrench appears to be a rather large socket wrench with a dial-in setting for the maximum amount of torque it will allow you to tighten a nut to. Track down the factory specification for torque on the lug nuts (Jens? Wayne?) and adjust the lug nuts yourself every time your wheels are put back on. The problem is that air-powered guns aren't always that accurate - one lug nut might get tighened way too much, another one just barely enough, and this can really screw up the brake rotors. This isn't a solution to the problem, but it will help the lifespan of your rotors.
Hope this helps!
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by icy CL:
how would you know if the rotors are warped or need resurfacing? does it vibrate really violently or does it make odd noises?
</font>
how would you know if the rotors are warped or need resurfacing? does it vibrate really violently or does it make odd noises?
</font>
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2001 Acura 3.2CL Type-S
Satin Silver/Ebony
No Navi/No Spoiler
Competch springs
35% tint
PIAA 19169 bulbs
K&N 33-2178 air filter
The Aviation Zone
teh Senior Instigator
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 44,094
Likes: 980
From: Huntington Beach, CA -> Ashburn, VA -> Raleigh, NC -> Walnut Creek, CA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Mike:
YUP 
Next time I want the BS banner!!!
</font>
YUP 
Next time I want the BS banner!!!

</font>
I had a Turbo Volvo before my CL. During warranty, the dealer replaced the warped rotors, not resurface!! I didn't even ask for it. They just did. I suggest you to ask the dealer to replace it under warranty.
how would you know if the rotors are warped or need resurfacing? does it vibrate really violently or does it make odd noises?
------------------
CL-P....icy white!
moon roof visor
mud guards
genuine acura nose mask
genuine acura burlwood shift knob
polarg m-12 on blinkers
m-4s on internal lamps
m-4 on rear plate lamp
piaa bulbs on road lamps
zaino polish
"i drive it like my grandma....j/k"
------------------
CL-P....icy white!
moon roof visor
mud guards
genuine acura nose mask
genuine acura burlwood shift knob
polarg m-12 on blinkers
m-4s on internal lamps
m-4 on rear plate lamp
piaa bulbs on road lamps
zaino polish
"i drive it like my grandma....j/k"
My rotors were warped at 9K miles and the dealer reluctantly resurfaced them. Now at almost 17K they are starting to warp again. I don't drive any different than I did with my previous cars and I've never had warping before.
The steering wheel will shake from side to side when you apply the brakes if your rotors are warped. The more warpage that's present, the more violently the wheel will shake.
FWIW, I had my front rotors resurfaced at 14,100 miles.
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2000 WDP 3.2TL non-NAV
AEM CAI
FWIW, I had my front rotors resurfaced at 14,100 miles.
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2000 WDP 3.2TL non-NAV
AEM CAI
No, but I hope to buy a new brake kit soon.
Wish AEM would release one for the CLS.
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2001 Satin Silver Cl Type S.
Comptech:Headers, Springs & Sways
AEM CAI
Toyo T1S Proxys 235/45/17
SSR Competition wheels 17x8
35% Llumar metallic tint
My Car
Wish AEM would release one for the CLS.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by CLpower:
sweet, i had to pay 200$ to get mine done. YOu upgraded your pads yet? And i only use the banner on special occasions
</font>
sweet, i had to pay 200$ to get mine done. YOu upgraded your pads yet? And i only use the banner on special occasions
</font>
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2001 Satin Silver Cl Type S.
Comptech:Headers, Springs & Sways
AEM CAI
Toyo T1S Proxys 235/45/17
SSR Competition wheels 17x8
35% Llumar metallic tint
My Car
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Mike:
Had my rotors resurfaced last week under warranty, but the service rep didn't give me a hard time. Of course I slipped him a bottle of Cognac for XMAS and he'll get another for the 4th of July.
</font>
Had my rotors resurfaced last week under warranty, but the service rep didn't give me a hard time. Of course I slipped him a bottle of Cognac for XMAS and he'll get another for the 4th of July.

</font>
This is nothing unusual either, I always take care of people in my life, what goes around, comes around...
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Silver CL-S w/ Navi, Spoiler, Wheel Locks, Trunk Tray, 19169, 9005
Toyo 235/45ZR17-97W* T1-S Proxes on 17X8 SSR Competition Wheels (47.2 lbs lighter than stock wheel+tire setup)
Comptech Sways
G-Tech (Full tank of gas, 60F, VSA off, SS) - 5.94 seconds
V-1 Hardwired
I just started to feel some vibration at 9k miles 
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2001 Silver 3.2CLS
Muds, Spoiler, Hardwire 8500, Polarg M-6 lamps, K&N filter #33-2178,
Comptech Headers, Sways, mufflers
Planning: SSR 17X8 Competition Wheels, Brembo Brakes.

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2001 Silver 3.2CLS
Muds, Spoiler, Hardwire 8500, Polarg M-6 lamps, K&N filter #33-2178,
Comptech Headers, Sways, mufflers

Planning: SSR 17X8 Competition Wheels, Brembo Brakes.
I worked at a shop many years ago. In my experience when the rotors are warped or enevenly worn you'll feel the steering wheel go from side to side OR you may feel a lurching motion of the whole car as you steadily hold the brake, especially at slow speeds, ie:as you creep up to a stoplight.
--TIP--If you don't know if what you are feeling is front or back brakes then apply your hand brake only (careful now, don't let your finger slip off the button) and you'll isolate just the rear brakes--
Most brake shops automatically re-surface your rotors when you get a brake job. If they didn't your brakes wouldn't work very well. Rotors don't just warp in one direction, but along the surface of the roter itself you'll notice grooves. Run your fingernail along the rotor from the hub outward and you'll feel them. The pads develop a corresponding set of grooves over time. When a new brake pad is put on those grooves = less surface area in contact w/ the flat pad (up to 50% or more!!). Whenever I change my pads myself I make sure I have another ride to take my rotors to a shop to be resurfaced.
Yes, be sure to check the tension of the lugnuts on your wheels, that would be why a dealer would replace them... because they screwed it up originally... and when you get your brakes done make sure they re-surface the rotors, don't let them cut corners!
By resurfacing the rotors I don't mean they apply a new amount of material to the rotor, actually it is the opposite, they put the rotors on a brake lathe and shave off a few mils of material. So your rotors will not last forever! They can only br re-surfaced 2 or so times depending on how much they have to take off each time. I've resurfaced many rotors and it is surprising how much you may have to take off just to get to a good surface. I know this may be overkill but I hope it helps.
Peace,
N
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'97 2.2CL
White
Cleared bumpers
Clean trunk look
Mods to come...need $$$!
--TIP--If you don't know if what you are feeling is front or back brakes then apply your hand brake only (careful now, don't let your finger slip off the button) and you'll isolate just the rear brakes--
Most brake shops automatically re-surface your rotors when you get a brake job. If they didn't your brakes wouldn't work very well. Rotors don't just warp in one direction, but along the surface of the roter itself you'll notice grooves. Run your fingernail along the rotor from the hub outward and you'll feel them. The pads develop a corresponding set of grooves over time. When a new brake pad is put on those grooves = less surface area in contact w/ the flat pad (up to 50% or more!!). Whenever I change my pads myself I make sure I have another ride to take my rotors to a shop to be resurfaced.
Yes, be sure to check the tension of the lugnuts on your wheels, that would be why a dealer would replace them... because they screwed it up originally... and when you get your brakes done make sure they re-surface the rotors, don't let them cut corners!
By resurfacing the rotors I don't mean they apply a new amount of material to the rotor, actually it is the opposite, they put the rotors on a brake lathe and shave off a few mils of material. So your rotors will not last forever! They can only br re-surfaced 2 or so times depending on how much they have to take off each time. I've resurfaced many rotors and it is surprising how much you may have to take off just to get to a good surface. I know this may be overkill but I hope it helps.
Peace,
N
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'97 2.2CL
White
Cleared bumpers
Clean trunk look
Mods to come...need $$$!
I don't have this problem with the CL-S yet (only 6k miles) But I ran into the problem on my 97' Accord SE (front disk rear drum) at about 12k miles. Basicly every time I would apply the brakes the steering wheel would vibrate and pull back and forth. I was told this was a problem that happened pretty frequently and was told the reason was that the rotors weren't big enough for the car. I wonder if this is also the case with the CL-S?
You guys aren't spraying cold water on your hot brakes are you???
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2001 Cl-S Black on Black with Navigation
Black Tint all around (15%~45%)
Weapon-R Dragon Filter
Weapon-R Coil-Overs
Koni Adjustable Struts
Comptech Sway Bars
Comptech Headers (hehehe...I got something for you drchang!!)
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2001 Cl-S Black on Black with Navigation
Black Tint all around (15%~45%)
Weapon-R Dragon Filter
Weapon-R Coil-Overs
Koni Adjustable Struts
Comptech Sway Bars
Comptech Headers (hehehe...I got something for you drchang!!)
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by moomaster_99:
You guys aren't spraying cold water on your hot brakes are you???
</font>
You guys aren't spraying cold water on your hot brakes are you???
</font>
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I think we are all driving the Civic Si's big brother.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by moomaster_99:
You guys aren't spraying cold water on your hot brakes are you???
</font>
You guys aren't spraying cold water on your hot brakes are you???
</font>
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01 Silver CL-S, Navi, Spoiler
Retired: 94 540i
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by tel1sps:
I just started to feel some vibration at 9k miles
</font>
I just started to feel some vibration at 9k miles

</font>

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- As long as people will accept crap, it will be financially profitable to dispense it.
01 Type-S
Satin Silver/Ebony
Dunlop SP5000 215/50/17
Navigation-Spoiler-Muds-Wheel locks-35% Tint-PIAA wedges-V1 and remote
Everyone I talk to about the rotors and the brakes in general agree that Honda brakes suck for the most part. New rotors(cross drilled) are less than you think (like$100/ea)and will make a big difference especially if coupled with some upgraded pads.
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01 CL TYPE S: BLK/EBONY, NAVI, SITTING ON MASITALY SAGITTA 18'S W/ NITTO 235-40-18'S AND EIBACH SPORT SPRINGS.
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01 CL TYPE S: BLK/EBONY, NAVI, SITTING ON MASITALY SAGITTA 18'S W/ NITTO 235-40-18'S AND EIBACH SPORT SPRINGS.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by colbster:
Everyone I talk to about the rotors and the brakes in general agree that Honda brakes suck for the most part. New rotors(cross drilled) are less than you think (like$100/ea)and will make a big difference especially if coupled with some upgraded pads.
</font>
Everyone I talk to about the rotors and the brakes in general agree that Honda brakes suck for the most part. New rotors(cross drilled) are less than you think (like$100/ea)and will make a big difference especially if coupled with some upgraded pads.
</font>
How much does it cost for new honda rotors?
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Mustang Killa
I saw a couple people mention Fords with this problem - FYI - Fords are NOTORIOUS for "warped" brake rotors. You just gotta live with them in Fords or buy aftermarket.
-J
I'll let you guys know when I put another 14,890 miles (when I get to 15k on mine) how the rotors are.
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2001 CL-S Aegean Blue/black interior spoiler, wheel locks, no-navi
Stock for now.
[This message has been edited by JRock (edited 05-01-2001).]
-J
I'll let you guys know when I put another 14,890 miles (when I get to 15k on mine) how the rotors are.

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2001 CL-S Aegean Blue/black interior spoiler, wheel locks, no-navi
Stock for now.
[This message has been edited by JRock (edited 05-01-2001).]
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by NOMAD:
I worked at a shop many years ago. In my experience when the rotors are warped or enevenly worn you'll feel the steering wheel go from side to side OR you may feel a lurching motion of the whole car as you steadily hold the brake, especially at slow speeds, ie:as you creep up to a stoplight.
--TIP--If you don't know if what you are feeling is front or back brakes then apply your hand brake only (careful now, don't let your finger slip off the button) and you'll isolate just the rear brakes--
Most brake shops automatically re-surface your rotors when you get a brake job. If they didn't your brakes wouldn't work very well. Rotors don't just warp in one direction, but along the surface of the roter itself you'll notice grooves. Run your fingernail along the rotor from the hub outward and you'll feel them. The pads develop a corresponding set of grooves over time. When a new brake pad is put on those grooves = less surface area in contact w/ the flat pad (up to 50% or more!!). Whenever I change my pads myself I make sure I have another ride to take my rotors to a shop to be resurfaced.
Yes, be sure to check the tension of the lugnuts on your wheels, that would be why a dealer would replace them... because they screwed it up originally... and when you get your brakes done make sure they re-surface the rotors, don't let them cut corners!
By resurfacing the rotors I don't mean they apply a new amount of material to the rotor, actually it is the opposite, they put the rotors on a brake lathe and shave off a few mils of material. So your rotors will not last forever! They can only br re-surfaced 2 or so times depending on how much they have to take off each time. I've resurfaced many rotors and it is surprising how much you may have to take off just to get to a good surface. I know this may be overkill but I hope it helps.
Peace,
N
</font>
I worked at a shop many years ago. In my experience when the rotors are warped or enevenly worn you'll feel the steering wheel go from side to side OR you may feel a lurching motion of the whole car as you steadily hold the brake, especially at slow speeds, ie:as you creep up to a stoplight.
--TIP--If you don't know if what you are feeling is front or back brakes then apply your hand brake only (careful now, don't let your finger slip off the button) and you'll isolate just the rear brakes--
Most brake shops automatically re-surface your rotors when you get a brake job. If they didn't your brakes wouldn't work very well. Rotors don't just warp in one direction, but along the surface of the roter itself you'll notice grooves. Run your fingernail along the rotor from the hub outward and you'll feel them. The pads develop a corresponding set of grooves over time. When a new brake pad is put on those grooves = less surface area in contact w/ the flat pad (up to 50% or more!!). Whenever I change my pads myself I make sure I have another ride to take my rotors to a shop to be resurfaced.
Yes, be sure to check the tension of the lugnuts on your wheels, that would be why a dealer would replace them... because they screwed it up originally... and when you get your brakes done make sure they re-surface the rotors, don't let them cut corners!
By resurfacing the rotors I don't mean they apply a new amount of material to the rotor, actually it is the opposite, they put the rotors on a brake lathe and shave off a few mils of material. So your rotors will not last forever! They can only br re-surfaced 2 or so times depending on how much they have to take off each time. I've resurfaced many rotors and it is surprising how much you may have to take off just to get to a good surface. I know this may be overkill but I hope it helps.
Peace,
N
</font>
It will drive you nuts
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Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI
- Mud guards
- Wheel locks
- Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (48lbs less than stock)
- Kevlar/SS Brake lines w/Brembos?
- Comptech headers & sways
- Silver AEM CAI
- 9 coats of Zaino magic
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by colbster:
Everyone I talk to about the rotors and the brakes in general agree that Honda brakes suck for the most part. New rotors(cross drilled) are less than you think (like$100/ea)and will make a big difference especially if coupled with some upgraded pads.
</font>
Everyone I talk to about the rotors and the brakes in general agree that Honda brakes suck for the most part. New rotors(cross drilled) are less than you think (like$100/ea)and will make a big difference especially if coupled with some upgraded pads.
</font>
------------------
2001 Silver 3.2CLS
Muds, Spoiler, Hardwire 8500, Polarg M-6 lamps, K&N filter #33-2178,
Comptech Headers, Sways, mufflers

Planning: SSR 17X8 Competition Wheels, Brembo Brakes.
Yeah, you can seriously jack up some rotors on a lathe if you don't know what you are doing.
Honda brakes are known for warping because (from what I hear) most shops don't treat them correctly. They torque em down tight, slap em together and on to the next car...
It is a small car brake and they use their air guns for everything these days. Airguns are made to apply high torque and break stuff free, they were also made for those american cars made out of "cast iron"!! I think if Brake shops, mechanics, and even dealership service people (see how I made that PC?
) would take a little more time and care they wouldn't be so bad.
But in general, factory parts aren't always the best, espesially ones that are meant to be replaced like brakes (or in the case of Ford: Engines, he he
).
Invest in aftermarket parts that are the best... and that's what you'll get.
Peace,
N
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'97 2.2CL
White
Cleared bumpers
Clean trunk look
Mods to come...need $$$!
Honda brakes are known for warping because (from what I hear) most shops don't treat them correctly. They torque em down tight, slap em together and on to the next car...
It is a small car brake and they use their air guns for everything these days. Airguns are made to apply high torque and break stuff free, they were also made for those american cars made out of "cast iron"!! I think if Brake shops, mechanics, and even dealership service people (see how I made that PC?
) would take a little more time and care they wouldn't be so bad.But in general, factory parts aren't always the best, espesially ones that are meant to be replaced like brakes (or in the case of Ford: Engines, he he
).Invest in aftermarket parts that are the best... and that's what you'll get.
Peace,
N
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'97 2.2CL
White
Cleared bumpers
Clean trunk look
Mods to come...need $$$!
Mine warped after about 16-17K.
Dealer resurfaced them reluctanctly under warranty. He tried to blame the problem on my driving. BS
Now they're as bad as ever again at 45K. I'll probably have ahmotor.com replace them with cross drilled ones next time i go there for service.
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'99 2.3CL 5-spd, Black.
Spoiler, Pilot Fogs, Wheel Locks, Mudguards, CD & Cass, CoPilot Digital Compass, Michelin Pilot Tires, and an Audiovox Pursuit Ignition Disabler.
Dealer resurfaced them reluctanctly under warranty. He tried to blame the problem on my driving. BS
Now they're as bad as ever again at 45K. I'll probably have ahmotor.com replace them with cross drilled ones next time i go there for service.
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'99 2.3CL 5-spd, Black.
Spoiler, Pilot Fogs, Wheel Locks, Mudguards, CD & Cass, CoPilot Digital Compass, Michelin Pilot Tires, and an Audiovox Pursuit Ignition Disabler.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Technique:
I gave a bottle of Champagne (nice stuff, $150/bottle). So for $150 I get everything free. Free oil changes, free inspections, free ANYTHING that goes wrong. I mean ANYTHING. I also get sweet loaner cars, CL,TL,RL, whatever.
This is nothing unusual either, I always take care of people in my life, what goes around, comes around...
</font>
I gave a bottle of Champagne (nice stuff, $150/bottle). So for $150 I get everything free. Free oil changes, free inspections, free ANYTHING that goes wrong. I mean ANYTHING. I also get sweet loaner cars, CL,TL,RL, whatever.
This is nothing unusual either, I always take care of people in my life, what goes around, comes around...
</font>
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silver 2001 cl type s
Where does it say in the warranty that brakes are not covered? I want to be prepared when my dealer tries to weasel out of the problem. I think this one will go to Honda of America.
Thanks guys for your input.
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Anthony
Thanks guys for your input.
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Anthony
I told my dealer bout warping.
He scheduled the fix for next week without a peep -- however, what should i expect? The pads aren't covered? The labour?
Thanks guys
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R.I.P Integra Type-R #932
Black 2001 CL-S
Comptech Headers
He scheduled the fix for next week without a peep -- however, what should i expect? The pads aren't covered? The labour?
Thanks guys
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R.I.P Integra Type-R #932
Black 2001 CL-S
Comptech Headers
Warrenty service fully covered the resurfacing of the rotors...pads are not covered whatsoever....pads are fairly cheap though, and most likley they will not charge labour for popping them in.
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RUVZ
01' 3.2CL Type S - Satin Silver - Polarg M6 roadlamps
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RUVZ
01' 3.2CL Type S - Satin Silver - Polarg M6 roadlamps
I was reading this, and it occured to me that the Park Avenue guys haven't posted in this topic.
------------------
- As long as people will accept crap, it will be financially profitable to dispense it.
01 Type-S
Satin Silver/Ebony
Dunlop SP5000 215/50/17
Navigation-Spoiler-Muds-Wheel locks-35% Tint-PIAA wedges-V1 and remote
------------------
- As long as people will accept crap, it will be financially profitable to dispense it.
01 Type-S
Satin Silver/Ebony
Dunlop SP5000 215/50/17
Navigation-Spoiler-Muds-Wheel locks-35% Tint-PIAA wedges-V1 and remote
UGH! Mine started doing this today! Now it bugs me. I'm now looking for rotors online. Found some at ahmotor.com, but don't know if I like the "gold" color. Didn't list a price either. Autocarparts.com has nice ones, but they are 328 bucks for the fronts, and I don't even know who makes them!
Shit. I want new rotors that won't warp.
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01 Silver CL-S, Navi, Spoiler
Retired: 94 540i
Shit. I want new rotors that won't warp.
------------------
01 Silver CL-S, Navi, Spoiler
Retired: 94 540i
WOW!!! 45K...now I don't feel so bad about the mileage on my car..
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2001 Cl-S Black on Black with Navigation
Black Tint all around (15%~45%)
Weapon-R Dragon Filter
Weapon-R Coil-Overs
Koni Adjustable Struts
Comptech Sway Bars
Comptech Headers (hehehe...I got something for you drchang!!)
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by UDMechE:
Mine warped after about 16-17K.
Dealer resurfaced them reluctanctly under warranty. He tried to blame the problem on my driving. BS
Now they're as bad as ever again at 45K. I'll probably have ahmotor.com replace them with cross drilled ones next time i go there for service.
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Mine warped after about 16-17K.
Dealer resurfaced them reluctanctly under warranty. He tried to blame the problem on my driving. BS
Now they're as bad as ever again at 45K. I'll probably have ahmotor.com replace them with cross drilled ones next time i go there for service.
</font>
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2001 Cl-S Black on Black with Navigation
Black Tint all around (15%~45%)
Weapon-R Dragon Filter
Weapon-R Coil-Overs
Koni Adjustable Struts
Comptech Sway Bars
Comptech Headers (hehehe...I got something for you drchang!!)
count me in ! I sure mine are warped !
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2001 CL Type S Black/Ebony w/NAVI, PIAA bulbs, Tinted windows, JL Sub-woofer/Fosgate 250 watt amp, otherwise pure stock
1998 Accord Coupe EX-V6
Black Currant Pearl, PIAA bulbs, tinted windows, Fosgate 500 watt amp, Eclipes 6X9's,JL Sub-woofer, otherwise PURE stock !
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2001 CL Type S Black/Ebony w/NAVI, PIAA bulbs, Tinted windows, JL Sub-woofer/Fosgate 250 watt amp, otherwise pure stock
1998 Accord Coupe EX-V6
Black Currant Pearl, PIAA bulbs, tinted windows, Fosgate 500 watt amp, Eclipes 6X9's,JL Sub-woofer, otherwise PURE stock !

