hey i was looking through some old Honda Tuning mag and saw this http://omnipowerusa.com/product.asp?P_ID=132

I was wondering if anyone knows if any of the applications will work

Acura Integra 1994-2001
Honda Civic 1992-1995
Honda Civic 1996-2000
Honda S2000 2000-2006

from the picture it looks like it would work

I have a TL, and doing a CL-S swap btw, so I need a Master cylinder

 

try it out

 

"Work" as in will it fit? You clould make anything fit if you modify it enough. The flange on a stock master has a notch in it and the supply line and pressure line is opposite on the Omni.

"Work" as in will function as good or better than stock? You need to get the bore specs of the stock master and compare them to the Omni's 21mm.

Remember there's no free lunch. That 45% less travel means 45% increase in pedal pressure.

I have some physical measurements if you want, I was going to use the same master in my Mustang project but decided to use a Wilwood instead. http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-...RRMC/index.asp The Omni bore was too big and would have made an already stiff clutch stiffer and it was about $50.00 vs $180.00

That said, I would stick to the stock clutch master.

 

it will not fit. the way it connects to the steel lines for the clutch system is too close to the firewall in your tl. you have to use master cylinders that dont have the slanted connection point.

 

Like I said, you could modify anything.

True, it's too close to the firewall IF you use the conventional method of connecting it but you have to think outside the box. I used a Harley 10mmX1.0 brake banjo 90* fitting and a -3an braided hose. You could also use a -3an hardline to a union to a flex line to the slave. I used a -4ms fitting for the reservoir but you could just use a hose and clamp.

This was an my early mock up of a Honda master but you get the idea.

 

thanks for all the info!

I never knew wilwood made a M/C, but i was looking at them and you're right, they are only around $50!

I have no idea how to get the stock specs for a CL-S M/C, I have the shop manual but it doesnt say in there.

I think the wilwood should be able to do the job, plus its like half the price of oem!

 

 

let u know what happens. link to the wilwood?

 

http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-...RRMC/index.asp

Search ebay for the part number. It's about $50.00

The only thing to look out for is the Omni has a 21mm bore.
Wilwood has 15.8mm, 17.8mm and 19.0mm. Plus the mounting studs are vertical, the OE is diagonal. It might not clear the booster.

If you're going to use a Wilwood with the same bore size, it might be easier and cheaper to use the OE master. The $ you save might be all spent making it work. I had to buy a banjo bolt, banjo fitting, gaskets, -3an braided hose and a -3an adapter for the slave. If you use the OE hard line, you'll have to cut, bend and reflare it. You'll also have to modify the pushrod and clevis end. The Wilwood comes with a 5/16" pushrod and no clevice.

Sometimes cheaper isn't always cheaper.

 

There was a trick in S2000 land that involved taking the OEM AP1 Master and boring it out a few tenths and putting a pushrod / piston from something else in that matched the diameter. I don't recall it having any overwhelmingly positive results though.

There ended up being a company making a bored / shortened master cylinder for $100 or so that was direct bolt-on for the S2K. They're out there, but not sure of substantial benefit.

 

ahhh very good point, that i never thought about.

well i have no OE line to start with, so i think i will have to investigate and see the prices

The car is gonna be a summer cruiser and an ocassional track car.

Did you find that the improvement in performance is worth it?

ease of installation with the OE one is appealing, but if the performance is worth it then I'm not afraid to do custom work

Thanks again for your help

and Pseudo, do you know if the S2K M/C looks anything like the clutch M/C in the CL-6

 

i found this pic, from user Fsttyms1...


it looks like the CL-S does have a slanted tip so maybe its not so bad for install?

the only problem now would be the mounting points, but i havent drilled my firewall yet so i could always change where it mounts

 

Any more updates?

 

Installed the Acura integra Omni CMC, fits great, pedal stroke is shorter and stiffer for sure but I got used to it within an hour. Took some pictures, probably post them up some time later, as opposed to earlier

The car shifts real fast now, the time differences make it seem quicker the clutch engages more forcefully in a good way, im chirping and spinning out my tires again, although my stock CMC earlier was going out and wasn't good for high loads any more.

Overall pretty impressed with it, With this mod i've basically done everything to the clutch system except change out the clutch/flywheel, so those are still stock. I don't think I have that third gear problem anymore either, albeit that was only a cold problem, everything just seems to work better with more pressure being built up sooner. Got the same upgraded feeling when i switched to the 130A Odyssey alt. and how things felt better charged and the dimming went away.

I got mine at inlinefour.com (in person), picked it up for about $140 out the door after a little haggling, didn't want to buy it on ebay for $125 shipped and wait for it.

 

very nice. looks like one of my next mods

 

interesting

 

so the omnipower integra mc bolts straight up?

is there any point to trying an rsx or other one?

 

what year integra?

 

pics pics pics

 

Not really, except if you want to get a different fitting angle. My J32/6spd swap just used an Integra CMC the whole time and I didn't realize it until now, but they're all the same 5/8" CMC anyway.

94-01

I know... I know...

Geez, when I asked for updates one week ago no one responded, now however... haha

 

That's bc I think ur the first one to do this

 

Okay here are some cell phone pics for now, sorry guys =/
best I can do for now

 

just thought i would update this thread.

i bought a DC2 quicklutch, works great. pedal travel is LESS THAN HALF of stock, which is what i wanted. tangible benefits include not having to raise your foot as high to depress the pedal (meaning less fatigue actually), and obviously faster release of the pedal. pedal effort is about 100% more (double) than stock, but you get used to it very fast.


some install notes:
1. if you choose the DC2 version vs. say an RSX, you will have to manually bend your hard line to get it to the right fitting angle. i believe the RSX and SI versions come with a 90 degree connector on a stainless line, but don't quote me on it because i never bought that one. they also come with a spacer which may be useful, see below.

2. i had to remove the clutch release sensor and flip the locking nut to the other side, because it would not have fit otherwise. you will know when you install it, and this is why i think the spacer would be helpful.

3. because of (2), i had to improvise on the rubber pad the release sensor touches. the pad no longer touches the sensor, so i removed it and installed a 1" bolt that would touch it when fully released. you NEED this as your cruise control will not activate without it (always thinks the clutch is depressed). you can't flip the pad, even though the other side is larger, because the angle is incorrect and will not activate the sensor properly.

4. i found i had issues with the pedal not returning to full release (comes up about 90%). what eventually happened was clutch slipping in gear, and i was having to 'pull up' on the pedal to get it to stay at full release height. the reason is fairly simple: many clutch pedals have a 'clutch assist spring' located at the top of the pedal. because the pedal only has half the stock stroke length, the spring is stuck halfway between assisting (on the downstroke it helps lighten the effort and on the upstroke it helps bring the pedal back up). to remedy this, you can disconnect the spring from the pedal. i simply removed the pedal, turned the spring up (so it doesn't touch the pedal but is still in the housing), and re-installed the pedal. the master cylinder now provides all the power to push the pedal back up, and no more issues.



if you are in need of replacing the master cylinder, i would do this mod. i love it, and even though the install was 4-5 hours (tight area in the engine bay), i would definitely do it again.