Hopefully you guys will be able to provide me with some serious assistance here (as you've done in the past);

Anyways here is the problem, I just had my tires rotated & balanced Saturday, and today when attempting to perform some routine CAI maintenance, and attempting to pull the front left tire off, one of my lugs/stubs broke off, then another one (which happened to be the lug with the wheel lock!!!) beside it as well. Three lugs\nuts in a five lug configuration is a disaster (IMHO) waiting to happen

How much would it cost to have that fixed??

I want to take it back to the folks who did the rotate and balance, and demand that they fix it initially, but if that fails I would like to have a fair idea of the cost of the repairs should I haveto pay out of my pocket (of course as a last resort!!)

Thanks ahead of time.

 

It's a pretty simple fix for most any shops. It happened on my Dad's Grand Prix. He just took it to a local garage, they pounded out the old lug post and pounded in a new one.

Don't expect it to be that much...

 

take it to the dealer and tell him it's there fault or i think they should be able to warrenty it since u did get the parts from the dealer/on the car...?

 

Sounds like the classic problem of over tightening the lugs with the air gun.
You’re going to have to go back to them and complain.

I wish you luck. Act quickly.

Shawn S

 

Dealer didn't do the rotation and rebalance, and i'm not currently going to post the name of the franchise that did do it (yet) until I follow up, but needless to say I will if things don't work out. I'm just worried because if they screwed up one hub, there is not telling that they did to the others, and I lost a completely good set of wheel locks as well!!

 

Go back and tell them. Tell them that you were cleaning your rims and you saw them missing.

 

Fixing those is a very easy job. Should take no more than 10-15 minutes to do all 5 on one wheel. They only cost about $2-3 a peice. My chevy s10 they were only $1.50!! I opted to replace them all just to be sure...

 

It takes a bit longer than that for my TL. Should be the same for a CL. YOu have to take some stuff off to get to it.

 

you have the take off the knuckle and press out the hub. ideally youd want an alignment after. everyshop i asked quoted 2hrs


on some other hondas its literally a 5min job

 

it happened to one lug on my jeep and i never had it fixed and never had any problems, probably not the best idea but its not really the type of car you notice something like that on it made pleanty of other noises and driveline rattles/ vibrations to not make a difference

 

Aggghhhh!!!! Been there! Twice! I have Enkei wheels, and they have special nuts (threaded hollow shank). My aftermarket nuts (McGard) just grab the end of the stud (about 1/2 the threads in the nut).

First time it happened, I went back to the tire shop that did it, and they drilled out the stud and replaced the locks and the stud. It isn't just a 15 minute job, 'cause if I'm getting you right, you still have the f'in acorn in the wheel.

Second time the dealership wrecked it. They wanted me to eat the cost of my $65 CND locks + $115 CND to have it drilled and replaced!!!! I told them I'd eat the locks, because they weren't right for the wheel, and I told them to shove the $115 up their a$$ since their impact guns did it. The rest of the nuts were torque more than the 140 ft lbs my cheapo torque wrench reads. Book says 80 ft lbs. Dealership just handed me the keys, and said we'll take care of it.

Go back to the place that hooped it.

 

sounds like they cross threaded or over tightened the lugs. take it back and complain, hopefully they will take care of it.

also, have them loosen up and re-torque(by hand) the other wheels. hopefully they didn't screw anything else up.

with aluminum wheels, they shouldn't torque them more than 85 ft. lbs. or so, and they should not be "gunned" on.

 

So far so good, they had a shop that does their stud replacements fix my car (I guess this is a common occurrence ), and I had the shop check the other tires to make sure that everything was OK and they say that it is.

Everything is not completely settled yet because they owe me a set of 'factory' locks (which they said they will get and call me when they come in) and put them on for me. Needless to say when this happens, I am going to make damned sure that the manager of the store checks every single one of my lugs and retorques them with a torque wrench only.

The adventure isn't over yet, and I truly appreciate the help everyone has provided me, and I will make sure to post an update on everything when it's resolved to my satisfaction.

 

Same thing happened to me back in 2000 with a Civic. I took it to Honda and they replaced them but charged me after they did the labor saying that it was because I had after-market wheels. I took them an hour for one because it was supposedly stuck. After that I started doing what we do at work and put anti-seize on everything. If it works on the F-15 it should work on our CLs. Never had a problem since.

 

what's antiseize

 

Anti-seize is a compound that you would put on the treads preventing corrosion, therefore preventing them from breaking. Can be purchased in any auto-parts store, even Wal-Mart I think.

 

you aren't supposed to use anti-seize on car studs.

 

always thread lugs by hand

 

It's from over-tightening the nuts. Wheel locks are made of hardened steel, and are thus very brittle. Having them hammered on is a big no-no.

If you ever read FAQ pages from your wheel maker, they say NEVER use an impact gun to install aluminum wheels. You can warp them, and damage the seats. But every f'in place does it. Pisses me off!

 

Why not??? I have done this on all my cars for the last 15 years and never had a problem. If you ever have to change a flat out on the open road, you will be glad you did.

 

You should NEVER do that!!! That's just encouraging the lugs to become loose while driving.

 

Anti-seize does NOT make it any easier to loosen your lug nuts. It's sole purpose is to prevent the treads on the stud to become brittle and to prevent corrosion which is why they break to begin with. We use anti-seize on launchers and pylons that are under way more stress than your tires. BTW I believe the torque on our wheels is only 80in/lbs. Lots of places use impact wrenches to re-install your wheels but they have what is called a torque limiter; which, should be blue (80in/lbs) installed between the socket and the wrench that looks basically like an extension. This torque limiter prevents overtorquing, DUH! When ever you get your tires wheels worked on ask them to make sure they use a torque limiter or don't use the impact wrench but do it by hand with a torque wrench.

 

if you install the lugs correctly, there is no reason to use the anti sieze (on a passenger car). any good tire shop or wheel manufacturer will tell you the same thing.

however, it is used on heavy duty trucks and semi's. with lug nuts being torqued to 160 lbs. and up. and other industrial applications.