New 2003 CL-S owner here (120 000 miles). First, I would like to thank you guys for the help that you have provided. I have posted a couple of question here prior to closing the deal and everybody was were helpful. Now I have a few question about the maintenance of the car:
1) Oil change: the previous owner was using dyno oil. Should I still switch to synthetic? From my old Probe experience I heard that in some cases "late" switch to synthetic can cause seals to shrink and cause oil leaks. Would you still recommend synthetic?
2) Should I still stick with Honda recommended 5W20, or it's possible to go to 5W30 or 0W30? It's hard to find good 5W20 locally, but local stores have even "Purple" in 5W30. I won't touch the question about the intervals, since there is a heated discussion out there.
3) I believe the car might be up for transmission oil change. Should I use Honda's stuff (which i heard was reformulated) or there is better oil out there (Castrol Synthetic or others?)
4) What is your preferred treatment for the leather seat? They seems to be in somewhat decent shape and I would like to keep them this way.
5) Rustproof or not? The car doesn't seems to be rustproofed, but there is no visible rust. But still I would prefer to be careful. What is preferred way of rust proofing for Acura: Krown, RustChek or something else?
I am pretty sure I will come up with more questions at later time,but this is it for now. Looking forward to you help.

 

I seem to remember reading that our cars actually are resistant to rust. I forget where, though... maybe the owner's manual?

As for the leather seat, I know there was a thread in the Wash & Wax forum, by Wes_R where he used something specific for the leather seats. Dunno if he did that on his CL or something else, though.

 

They definately are not resistant to rust.

Rust proofing depends on where you live, and how vigilant you are against the elements.

 

5w 20 WTF???

it says right on the oil cap 5w 30.

i cannot see it being different for 6speeders

 

I thought Clearcoat was put on our cars.... that stuff doesn't protect the finish?

 

lol honda used to have the WORST metal in the industy, they used to use recycled sheet metal for the exterior which is why u see SOOO many rusted out civics and tegs

 

Well then shit, what stuff did you guys put on?

 

i have always been interested in that magnetic rust reverse thingy... but I dunnoo

 

first of all were do you guys live (only has to be the state or so) cause that kinda depends on how much you need to treat the car,

but also a cheap and effective way to help prevent would be to wash the car on a regular basis INCLUDING the undercarriage, and ESPECIALLY during the winter, when they put salt down on the roads (especially if you live towards the northeast)

 

What's the best way to clean the underside? Just rinse it off regularly, or do you have to get in there and agitate? I posted a thread about this in Wash & Wax, but nobody replied.

 

that thing does work a little. Rust is a chemical reaction, and the device keeps a slight current on the body which slows or stops the chemical reaction. --that's what i've read about it anyways. I do the Krown rust proofing.
Also i'm pretty sure my oil cap says 5W 20.
Alex, post some pics!

They have those DIY carwash bays and there is a setting that washes the undercarriage.

 

yeah just hosing it off works (and ALOT better then nothing), but anyways i like to stick the pressure washer under there mainly, does not have to be too close, like the pressure washer wand is touching the ground
also make sure to get the wheel wells too

btw: i also don't live in one of the rust band states which helps alot too

 

also if you (or a shop) do any work (on the outside) make sure to use plenty of antisieze on the bolts when you reassembly it, you will love yourself for doing it, if you have to redo it at a later date (such as brakes)

 

Thanks guys!
I live in Ontario, Canada, which is an equivalent of "rust belt".
So I guess "rustproofing" is in order. I used to rustproof my Ford Probe and it actually is holding up very well: no rust except around windshield ( I guess from poor installation workjobgot a pick when mechanic was looking at it).
As far as oil goes, my manuals says: API Premium grade 5W-20. But it sound like some people run 5W30, which is easier to find in premium brands.
I will try to post some pictures tomorrow.

 

My cap says 5W 20 btw.

 

i always use 5w-30 in mine so no problem with it and offers better protection too, and yeah alot easier to find (and my cap says 5w-20 just like every one elses does)

 

What do you guys think about switching to synthetic? Previous owner run dyno, but I always run synthetic in my cars? Can it hurt switching so late in car's life?

 

nope only thing is it might develop some oil leaks cause cause synthetic likes to clean the inside up quite a bit, but these cars are sealed up quite well from the factory so leaks will more then likely not develop, but there is always a possibility of it, so just be aware,
and i just switched mine to synthetic last oil change (102k miles), about 3,500 miles ago and so far no leaks


btw: there is absolutly no problem with going straight to synthetic from dino

 

Ive run synthetic since I bought it with 56k. No leaks, and Im at 103k now.

I beat the shit out of the car too.

 

and bend valves while you are beating the shit out of it

 

I think I did actually lol

Around 90k, I missed a shift and over-revved. I know I have compression issues and Im burning oil.

I think my car is into S&M, I beat it all the time but it never says the safe word

 

I dont hear much concern about going from dino to synthetic. if you want you can make a middle step and use syn blend for a while. most of the concern is going from syn to dino.

even though 5w-20 is recommended, 5w-30 or 10w30 can be used. kinda depends on the climate a little. The only reason the oil caps on the 01-02 CL/TLs say 5w-30 and 03 CL/TL say 5w-20 is honda/acura is trying to improve MPGs via CAFE standards. some people actually prefer running 5w-30 cause the thicker viscosity at the higher temps give it better protection. but if you choose any of the above viscosities then you'll be fine. I've ran a blend of 5w-20 and 10w-30 before

your welcome to use the reformulated honda MTF but a lot of people like the feel of GM's syncromesh. and a couple of people use amsoil but thats pretty expensive stuff.

 

1.) I've considered the same thing, I'm at about 108k... I have heard the consider about switching over with a high mileage car, but everyone I speak with these days seem to indicate few problems.... I'm considering the switch at the next oil change.

3.) I just changed my fluid the other night not being sure of "what" was in there... got out all the brown yucky fluid and used the honda/acura reformulated stuff... I feel it was money well spent.

4.) I occasionally try different products, but generally stick just with Lexol Cleaner and Conditioner (thanks Dad). That is all my parents ever used on their cars and they always have their car in great shape when they trade them in.

5.) I'm in Florida now, but when in New England I only ever had a new car undercoated/rustproofed. I was OCD (even at 15!) about washing the undercarriage at least once a week in the window though due to the salt on the roads. If you decide to do it, just make sure you find a place that will thoroughly wash the undercarriage first and then give it time to dry before application... my 2 cents.

Good luck.

 

Thanks, I did think that whole 5W-20 issue had to do with fuel economy and CAFE, rather than with engine design.
Forgive my ignorance but aren't 01-02 type S engines identical to 03 S?.
As far as transmission oil goes, are Honda and GM stuff synthetic or dyno? I don't point of saving money there since you only change it once in a few years.

 

I dont know about you guys, but my CL-S6 has 122k on it and has been daily driven on Michigan roads in all seasons (we use road salt up here) and my undercarriage is almost entirely rust free. Now, some of the suspension pieces now have some surface rust, but nothing drastic at all.

I wouldnt switch to synthetic, but not for the "leaking", just because IMO if you change the oil often enough the motor should last 200k without a rebuild on regular high quality dino oil.

I use Lexol for the seats, and have since new. I dont have any serious cracks or splits (aside from normal tiny lines on the bolsters) and they are always nice & soft. I do the cleaner/conditioner about 3x a year.

Honda calls for 5W-20, but in the summer I run 5w-30 or even 10w-30 for the extra bearing protection. I go back to 5w-20 in the winter due to the cold temperatures (need thinner oil until it warms up).

I have tried the original Honda MTF, GM Syncromesh, and reformulated Honda MTF. IMO the new Honda stuff and Syncromesh offer similar feel and longevity. The old Honda stuff was definitely notchier and stiff in the cold months.

 

Thanks for the information: it's very useful. But I would like to comment on oil. 5W20 and 5W30 should have the same viscosity when cold (so 5). It's when it is reaching operating temperature viscosity will be different (20 and 30). But this temperature should be the same summer or winter. 10W30 on another hand is not good in winter: I can feel it now, since I haven't changed to winter oil yet (it's on my other car)

 

Just stick with the recommended 5W20. I have Amsoil trans. fluid in now and it was an improvement over what was in there, but i don't think it was anything drastic. It's really easy to change yourself. Are you in the GTA??

 

i rather go with 5w-30 for the added protection when it is warmed up

but yeah changing the trans fluid is not very hard, but you got to know the procedure,or you will proably not get the correct fluid level

 

No, I am in Kingston, ON. I looked at the manual and it doesn't seem to be more difficult than oil change (even easier, since you don't have to deal with the filter).
BTW, did you ever try Amsoil engine oil? They offere 25000 (don't remember km or miles) protection. I won't go that far, but it's nice to have longer intervals, so I don't have to do it in the middle of winter.

 

I was trying to post the pictures but seems like i need some on-line storage space in order to do. Will try in the evening when I 'll have more time.

 

I use amsoil 5w-20 and it works fine for me, I still change at 5k because I'm anal about that. I also changed my tranny fluid to Amsoil synchromesh and to be honest, didnt notice a difference but it already shifted pretty smooth anyway. Make sure to only use 2.3 liters of trans fluid though and make sure the check hole is done draining before you put everything back together (if applicable).

 

My problem is that I can not find any good oil (Royal purple, Amsoil) in 5W20 weight around here. Might pick up some in USA when I'll there for Christmas. Which stores/chains normally carry Amsiol products there? BTW do you use Amsoil filters too?

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-photograph-gallery-53/how-post-pictures-685242/



Of course you can also use photobucket.com and get the [img]...[/img] tag there.

 

There was a switch mid production 2002 to 5w20 from 5w30.
Hence the difference.

 

yea mine said 5w 30 (new cap)... so is it any better the run 5w 20 or..?

technically it's less engine protection isn't it?

 

I am pretty sure it has something to do with fuel economy, rather than engine design. 5W30 should provide better engine protection, but slightly worse fuel economy (due to pumping losses in the engine). I think I will go with 5W30.

 

Cover your VIN.

 

?????? Do you mean physically? and why?

 

he had his CL stolen. Someone most likely used his VIN on his dash to cut a key or something.

 

I knew that he had his car stolen, I guess it's right there on the signature. Just didn't make a connection between VIN and the key. Is it difficult to just hotwire the car, so people will go thru trouble of cutting the key?
But thanks for the advice. Actually is there a reason why the VIN is sitting right there in the open?