DEPTLS

iTrader: (6)

So I have had my car swapped to 6mt for about 7-8 months now and I have been getting a knocking sound from anything above 3k rpm. I now don't drive the car past that rpm range, and keep it parked but I have already I guess considered buying another motor. But my question to some of the knowledgeable ones here about NA choices to go with.. I had the J35 with TL-S Cams, and my bolt-ons, But What is a good idea to go with? 3.7 is out of the question because of funds But going anything less than 3.5 is damn near out of the question too Lol I need that feeling back.. I was thinking of a port and polished IM, runners, maybe Cl-S Heads? Any good combos with the mdx motor? I'm not sure if I should get what I had again and just chill.. Any Ideas and or pointers?

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

So you have a 3.2 now?

3.5 is a cheap option with a nice bump in tq. 3.5 bottom end, cl heads, p&p manifold, runners, bigger TB, big exhaust. 3.6 is also an option.

I'd say first get your car diagnosed.

DEPTLS

iTrader: (6)

Well, I'm 3.5 now with TL-S cams and bolt ons now. I was hoping to find more hp before going 3.6 or 3.7 I saw threads and Id love a 3.7, but the cost in parts is too high as I need the fix that takes the least time.. So I currently had just the camshaft put in the motor. So if I put in ported runners and manifold and a bigger tb(not sure which would be a bolt on option) also including my mdx spacer would give me a nice bump compared to what I felt before?

fsttyms1

How many miles did the motor have? Its odd to have a bearing problem on the J. Are you sure its the motor?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

diagnose your current engine first..

DEPTLS

iTrader: (6)

When i bought the motor it had about 140k on it..



I thought about having it diagnosed.. but i dont want to pay out a kidney to have the car looked at... Should i take it to the stealership?

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

maybe if you can describe the swap you did in detail and when the problem started etc then we can help narrow it down. Any codes being thrown?

DEPTLS

iTrader: (6)

01 Mdx motor
all stock internals except the camshaft
05 TL 6 speed trans
stock flywheel and clutch

Gnuts what exactly about the swap did you need to know? i didnt do this by hand my mechanic did so i'm just looking to be sure i'm giving you the right details...
No there are no codes on the car... Occaisonally i get a Cat converter code. other than that. nothing else.
LOSS OF POWER TOO! but because the knocking scares me.. i dont rev past 3000 and havent tried to "go fast" or faster in the car than i feel comfortable doing without breaking somthing.


WHEN .... WHEN the problem started.... Hmmm... i have to think about this...
2-3 weeks ago the bracket for my Ingalls Stiffy that bolts down to the side motor mount Broke...
To accelerate and decellerate i would accel and the car would go to the Right.. HARD!! then letting off the gas it would go right back to the left.... Got the bracket replaced then i was able to hear the knocking sound i hear now..
started driving it to and from work and staying under 3k would keep me from hearing the knock. sometimes when i start the car up i will hear it knock a little bit it feels like its a high pitched tapping or knocking on the top part of the motor. I can try to make a vid and post it.. I am a few miles from a needed oil change so i was thinking let me check for pieces of metal
have not done this yet. I'm at work folks sorry my writing is so choppy..

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

that's all i wanted to know. More details the better.

Could the noise be from the engine bucking? Is it forsure at 3,000rpm? Could it be at vtec engagement? How do all the motor mounts look? Seems like maybe a mount is loose and the engine is not held down and is ramming the frame?

DEPTLS

iTrader: (6)

Sorry i thought i replied. My computer shut down last night in the middle of my submitting my reply, but oh well

So its not bucking... the knocking\tapping sound happens whwen i'm in neutral too. Motor mounts may need to be replaced, but i dont see any completely broken. although i do plan on getting XLR8 Mounts soon for stiffness. But the knocking starts a little before 3000 rpms its like at 2700ish I can hear it lightly tapping and getting over 3000 it seems to knock a little louder. i've been afraid to take it above 3500 because it sounds like something may happen if i take it further...

YeuEmMaiMai

how many miles on the car it's self?

as for the car pulling hard under acceleration, that's normal for any FWD car with unequal length drive shafts and an open differential. if it is really bad, time to check for worn suspension pieces.

does the motor knock when you rev it up in neutral? take the oil pan off and chack main bearings, if any are discolored, engine is toast and it's time to do some MAJOR work to get it right.

BTW, who in their right mind buys and engine with 140K on it? that's just nuts

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

pop the hood and have someone produce the sound. Maybe you can narrow it down in the engine. Put your hand on the heads and see if you can feel the knock.

What year TL-S cams did you use?

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

If it was a rod or crank bearing you will hear it at idle and it would get louder under more load,but a knock from the lower end would make the knock sound wider like knock.....knock......knock.
Where the valve train noise would be like tick tick tick at a faster rythum.
If you get the car up to a cruising speed does the knock get quiter?

DEPTLS

iTrader: (6)

The car itself has approx 340k on it.. when i did my swap the new odometer shows 160k but i keep track of the mileage.
Not worried about the pulling.. ive had suspension work done recently... ball joints upper lower. control arm recently replaced... endlinks replaced sway bar bushing replaced.. tein ss in front and they are still good.
show me a motor with less on it that doesnt cost 1500 and isnt 500+ miles from me...

DEPTLS

iTrader: (6)

2002 TLS from my OG motor

DEPTLS

iTrader: (6)

Its quieter only depending on how low i am from 3000 rpms.. I know your all trying to help if i'm on the interstate to go home from work i can get up to 80-90mph.. ONLY IN 6th gear but once i get up to a higher gear i'm about 2500 rpm range so yes it is quieter. but if i try to speed up it gets louder.

YeuEmMaiMai

distance should not matter as most places will have it shipped to where your local JY is

http://www.automotix.net/usedengines...inventory.html

(this is stateside)

These guys will ship to Canada

http://www.lowmileageengines.com/use...acura_2005.php

DEPTLS

iTrader: (6)

Thanks to your earlier comment I decided to take a 2nd look on www.car-part.com and I found a motor about 40 miles from me with 35,009 for 650! and looking on the link you posted the top one, there was one $1350 with 81k on it..... now that i look again.. those are 2004 Mdx motors which wont work on my trans.. its a 2001-2002 but thank you for the links tho..

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Sounds like a failing lower end .

YeuEmMaiMai

did you do your swap? if so, pull your oil pan off and look for the bearing that is a different color than the rest. eventually the engine is going to hard lock on you and then you really ARE done. you might be able to fix it for cheap by pulling motor and redoing bottom end...