I need to confirm something with the stock engine dampeners that are on the 6MT. The shock absorber looking things.

Do they move around in the bracket? Mine are moving in the brackets. I can wiggle them around & twist them. I just replaced my broken side mount to cure some bad engine movement causing noises. I need to see if this is normal or are they supposed to be sold with little to no movement.

Thanks

 

those dampeners are crap man they are pretty much useless when i replaced mine with ones i got off ebay i could compress the stock ones just by pushing on them just go on ebay and buy two to replace those like what they did on this thread it helps alot with engine movement.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ight=dampeners

 

I just tried to twist/move the rear in my six speed and it does not move within the bolted mount brackets on either end. The rubber sleave that covers the damper for protection is flimsy but secure for its intended purpose, protection.

I can't readily get to the front one because the S/C'er is in the way. I'm sure both of them are supposed to be secure with no movement if they are tightly bolted. If they tend to loosen up over time, a little blue loctite will help prevent.

 

OK then they are blown. Mine move in the bracket. They are tightly bolted.

I know I can try to replace them with something better but I'm trying to trace my clicking/knocking sounds cause I don't think it's my axles. The side mount was blown, I mean REALLY blown. When I stabbed the gas the entire engine violently moved.

 

you can replace those with NRG dampers for a civic/integra i believe right?

 

Yeah but I'm not. I don't want to add vibrations, I went through all that with innovative mounts. I'm just bought 2 stock replacements from Acura.
As per that thread my post from 2007 is still my fears on that mod. Vibrations, & loosening.
I can just replace the entire stock dampener in 30 minutes for both sides & be done with it for a while. I'm sure they blew because the side was gone, the power I put through the car & the 102K miles on it.

 

While you are there, be sure to check out the rubber bushings on the upper and lower side of each damper (#18 on the link below) for cracks and deterioration. If you had a lot of excessive movement as a result of the dampers being blown, the bushings could be compromised as well. It will be easy to tell once taken apart. When I replaced mine (dampers) last year, the bushings were wasted after 115K miles along with the dampers. They are only about two bucks a piece (total of 4).

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

 

No need, the entire assembly I got as a unit. Parts 15 & 14

 

I see. I re-used everything except for the dampers and bushings, front and rear. It appears that for the front damper assembly (15) they include the upper bracket to the block and the lower to the cross beam. Same for the rear (14), the bracket to the engine mount.

In addition, the utilization of the Ingalls torque damper (at its highest setting) mounted to the passenger strut tower/ Fr. engine mount bracket helps stiffen things up real good as well.

 

Yea mine move when they are mounted...assuming they need to be replaced also.

I may go with oem also...since I read people were having issues with them dissapearing!

 

There NRG torque dampener w/ custom bracket GB sale going on now on V6proformance side right now (sorry can't link it here on AZ)
What your getting the item in Yellow circle..

 

Was it hard to loosen the bottom bolt for the rear dampener? I can't get it to budge. 14mm 1/2 inch socket with a breaker bar is not doing anything.
Is there something else holding it on the other side? I can't see back there.

And BTW the Acura factory must had an off day when they made the new front dampener assembly. The bracket was installed backwards! lol

 

The stock dampers are a waste of money to replace. I would either have some after market ones put in or just take the stock ones out. You probably would not even notice a difference with the stock ones removed.

 

The front I agree. The rear however uses a different engine mount then a auto. This mount needs another point of attachment to reduce engine front to back movement upon acceleration. I know because mine is busted & the engine shifts as I gas the engine quickly. Hence replacement. A stock engine I also agree with. When your pushing power though you need something unless you have poly mounts.

 

replce the stock front with nrg and get an ingalls stiffy top mount...looks to be tried and true on here with other members and i plan on doing it as well because im in the same boat as you...gl

 

The bottom nut on the rear beam mount bracket for the damper is stamp welded. I had to spray Seafoam, IIRC, from under the car on the protuding bolt end at the nut and let it soak for a bit. It should come loose

 

Yeah I have PB soaking on it. I'll try it again next weekend. Ran out of time.
I did notice the other side has a nut. I didn't see that at 1st & was tying to just crank the bolt. I'm going to have to remove the strut bars(neuspeed) & IMRC unit to reach it.

 

You are doing it correctly, wrenching on the bolt side, that is. No need to remove the strut bar or IMRC to get at that nut, for wrenching. It is fixed in place to aid in the removal/replace function. My bet is that after it (the bolt) soaks in the PB for a week it will loosen right away.