Need advice on tire rotation
Need advice on tire rotation
I live in Bolingbrook, IL. I used to go to Discount Tire for tire rotation for both cars. Last I checked with them, they now charge $13 for it and you can take it off of your next tire purchase.
So I have two options:
1. Either find some other place that does it for free and you guys trust (and hopefully it's close to where I live), or
2. Do it myself (which I would prefer, if someone told me it's not a big deal and what I need to buy to do it). I know I need a torque wrench, but what else? Do I need four jack stands, or can I go by with one? Using the spare, cant I do it tire by tire (raise the car 4 times)? Will it be a bitch to do?
Advice please.
So I have two options:
1. Either find some other place that does it for free and you guys trust (and hopefully it's close to where I live), or
2. Do it myself (which I would prefer, if someone told me it's not a big deal and what I need to buy to do it). I know I need a torque wrench, but what else? Do I need four jack stands, or can I go by with one? Using the spare, cant I do it tire by tire (raise the car 4 times)? Will it be a bitch to do?
Advice please.
Originally Posted by sixgearcl
yeah that was a discusson too...
they showed a jack that lifts extra high for trucks
they showed a jack that lifts extra high for trucks
I wonder where that is. The discussion that is.
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you can do it yourself..not hard at all...yes your spare tire idea will work but you'll end up lifting the car 8 times not four...
but i'm located in niles..if you want..u can give me 5 bux..and i'll have u outta there in less than 20 minutes (maybe even 15)...i have two jacks and a impact gun =)
but i'm located in niles..if you want..u can give me 5 bux..and i'll have u outta there in less than 20 minutes (maybe even 15)...i have two jacks and a impact gun =)
Originally Posted by gavriil
I live in Bolingbrook, IL. I used to go to Discount Tire for tire rotation for both cars. Last I checked with them, they now charge $13 for it and you can take it off of your next tire purchase.
Do it myself (which I would prefer, if someone told me it's not a big deal and what I need to buy to do it). I know I need a torque wrench, but what else? Do I need four jack stands, or can I go by with one? Using the spare, cant I do it tire by tire (raise the car 4 times)? Will it be a bitch to do?
Originally Posted by gavriil
I live in Bolingbrook, IL. I used to go to Discount Tire for tire rotation for both cars. Last I checked with them, they now charge $13 for it and you can take it off of your next tire purchase.
So I have two options:
1. Either find some other place that does it for free and you guys trust (and hopefully it's close to where I live), or
2. Do it myself (which I would prefer, if someone told me it's not a big deal and what I need to buy to do it). I know I need a torque wrench, but what else? Do I need four jack stands, or can I go by with one? Using the spare, cant I do it tire by tire (raise the car 4 times)? Will it be a bitch to do?
Advice please.
So I have two options:
1. Either find some other place that does it for free and you guys trust (and hopefully it's close to where I live), or
2. Do it myself (which I would prefer, if someone told me it's not a big deal and what I need to buy to do it). I know I need a torque wrench, but what else? Do I need four jack stands, or can I go by with one? Using the spare, cant I do it tire by tire (raise the car 4 times)? Will it be a bitch to do?
Advice please.
Originally Posted by gavriil
Lift in the middle? Wow! Can I do that on my RX 300?
if you wanted to know how to do it on your truck im sure it wouldn't be here....
When I rotate my tires I just use two floor jacks in the factory lift positions on one side.
Once the front & back are up I just swap those two tires.
Then I go to the other side.
It only takes about 30-45 minutes total.
Hope this helps,
Shawn S
Once the front & back are up I just swap those two tires.
Then I go to the other side.
It only takes about 30-45 minutes total.
Hope this helps,
Shawn S
Same here, but I usually dont use jack stands. I got an AC-Dleco jack from Murrays for like $50 and it is a nice low profile so it fits under my mustang. I usually do them one side at a time so I dont have to worry about it rolling anywhere (my driveway is slightly uphill.
I just swapped all 4 of my mustang wheels and it took 30 minutes total, cut off 10 minutes from that if I was just rotating.
And a torque wrench is a MUST HAVE. Incorrectly torqued lug nits will warp rotors, cause vibration, and are plain not safe. I usually put a dab of oil on the studs so the lugs dont rust on, and torque the lugs to 95ft lbs.
I just swapped all 4 of my mustang wheels and it took 30 minutes total, cut off 10 minutes from that if I was just rotating.
And a torque wrench is a MUST HAVE. Incorrectly torqued lug nits will warp rotors, cause vibration, and are plain not safe. I usually put a dab of oil on the studs so the lugs dont rust on, and torque the lugs to 95ft lbs.
Originally Posted by jtkz13
torque the lugs to 95ft lbs.
Torque on Acura/Honda is 80ft/lbs per lug! Talk about:
Originally Posted by jtkz13
Incorrectly torqued lug nits will warp rotors, cause vibration, and are plain not safe.
Take care -- it's important...
Originally Posted by NiteQwill
Torque on Acura/Honda is 80ft/lbs per lug! Talk about:
If you don't seat the wheel by hand, then increase torque in small steps using a star pattern, and then finish by checking the torque, you can cause a lot of problems.
My SSR Comps even prefer a light coat of lithium grease on the lugs to make sure they snug-up on center (and the wheels have a hub centric ring insert). Having some monkeys’ torque the wheels up without using a star pattern and just using a "torque stick", was enough to cause the car to shake like crazy at 40-50 MPH.
Brakes rotors are easy to warp and the extra few minutes taken using a star pattern and the following will insure against rotor warp and runout problems:
1. Hand tighten.
2. Use star pattern with every step
3. Snug up (yes, star pattern)
4. Bring up to 20-30 ft/lbs.
5. Bring up to final factory recommended torque using a real torque wrench. (If they insist on using an impact gun -- some mechanics want to spin-brush their teeth, mix drinks and clean their rear with the sucker -- insist on them using a "torque stick" (it limits the torque and they come in different colors for different torques; it looks like an extension).
Torquesticks
Originally Posted by jtkz13
I was actually referring to my Mustang, sorry. I usually do the CL-S' to 85 ft lbs, just because I'd rather be 5lbs too tight than 5lbs too low.
whew...... I thought you were gonna post a "I can't my lugs off" topic 
I always follow the star pattern and torque wrench....
Originally Posted by EricL
If you don't seat the wheel by hand, then increase torque in small steps using a star pattern, and then finish by checking the torque, you can cause a lot of problems.
My SSR Comps even prefer a light coat of lithium grease on the lugs to make sure they snug-up on center (and the wheels have a hub centric ring insert). Having some monkeys’ torque the wheels up without using a star pattern and just using a "torque stick", was enough to cause the car to shake like crazy at 40-50 MPH.
Brakes rotors are easy to warp and the extra few minutes taken using a star pattern and the following will insure against rotor warp and runout problems:
1. Hand tighten.
2. Use star pattern with every step
3. Snug up (yes, star pattern)
4. Bring up to 20-30 ft/lbs.
5. Bring up to final factory recommended torque using a real torque wrench. (If they insist on using an impact gun -- some mechanics want to spin-brush their teeth, mix drinks and clean their rear with the sucker -- insist on them using a "torque stick" (it limits the torque and they come in different colors for different torques; it looks like an extension).
Torquesticks

My SSR Comps even prefer a light coat of lithium grease on the lugs to make sure they snug-up on center (and the wheels have a hub centric ring insert). Having some monkeys’ torque the wheels up without using a star pattern and just using a "torque stick", was enough to cause the car to shake like crazy at 40-50 MPH.
Brakes rotors are easy to warp and the extra few minutes taken using a star pattern and the following will insure against rotor warp and runout problems:
1. Hand tighten.
2. Use star pattern with every step
3. Snug up (yes, star pattern)
4. Bring up to 20-30 ft/lbs.
5. Bring up to final factory recommended torque using a real torque wrench. (If they insist on using an impact gun -- some mechanics want to spin-brush their teeth, mix drinks and clean their rear with the sucker -- insist on them using a "torque stick" (it limits the torque and they come in different colors for different torques; it looks like an extension).
Torquesticks
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