Need advice on tire rotation

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Old 10-24-2004, 07:51 PM
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Need advice on tire rotation

I live in Bolingbrook, IL. I used to go to Discount Tire for tire rotation for both cars. Last I checked with them, they now charge $13 for it and you can take it off of your next tire purchase.

So I have two options:

1. Either find some other place that does it for free and you guys trust (and hopefully it's close to where I live), or

2. Do it myself (which I would prefer, if someone told me it's not a big deal and what I need to buy to do it). I know I need a torque wrench, but what else? Do I need four jack stands, or can I go by with one? Using the spare, cant I do it tire by tire (raise the car 4 times)? Will it be a bitch to do?

Advice please.
Old 10-24-2004, 07:58 PM
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dude/... 2 jack stands in the front.... and the jack on the back....

rotating tires is not such an issue.... torque wrench?!?!? wtf for??????

tighten them sun bitches up....
Old 10-24-2004, 08:00 PM
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lift it in the middle.... sombody posted aq picture how do do it... try a search there here somewhere....
Old 10-24-2004, 08:03 PM
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i found it....
Old 10-24-2004, 08:17 PM
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Lift in the middle? Wow! Can I do that on my RX 300?
Old 10-24-2004, 08:35 PM
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yeah that was a discusson too...

they showed a jack that lifts extra high for trucks
Old 10-25-2004, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by sixgearcl
yeah that was a discusson too...

they showed a jack that lifts extra high for trucks

I wonder where that is. The discussion that is.
Old 10-25-2004, 11:49 AM
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you can do it yourself..not hard at all...yes your spare tire idea will work but you'll end up lifting the car 8 times not four...

but i'm located in niles..if you want..u can give me 5 bux..and i'll have u outta there in less than 20 minutes (maybe even 15)...i have two jacks and a impact gun =)
Old 10-25-2004, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by gavriil
I live in Bolingbrook, IL. I used to go to Discount Tire for tire rotation for both cars. Last I checked with them, they now charge $13 for it and you can take it off of your next tire purchase.
Is that 13 for the whole job or 13 for each wheel? If it's 13 for the job I'd let them do it.

Do it myself (which I would prefer, if someone told me it's not a big deal and what I need to buy to do it). I know I need a torque wrench, but what else? Do I need four jack stands, or can I go by with one? Using the spare, cant I do it tire by tire (raise the car 4 times)? Will it be a bitch to do?
Using the spare tire and the factory jack you should be able to do it lifting the car 5 or 6 times depending on the pattern you use.
Old 10-25-2004, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by gavriil
I live in Bolingbrook, IL. I used to go to Discount Tire for tire rotation for both cars. Last I checked with them, they now charge $13 for it and you can take it off of your next tire purchase.

So I have two options:

1. Either find some other place that does it for free and you guys trust (and hopefully it's close to where I live), or

2. Do it myself (which I would prefer, if someone told me it's not a big deal and what I need to buy to do it). I know I need a torque wrench, but what else? Do I need four jack stands, or can I go by with one? Using the spare, cant I do it tire by tire (raise the car 4 times)? Will it be a bitch to do?

Advice please.
Just this past weekend I bought one of those 3.5 ton car jacks from Costco for $70 and jack stands. I have a winter setup also, so it was well worth it for me to get a nice hydraulic jack and stands.
Old 10-25-2004, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by gavriil
Lift in the middle? Wow! Can I do that on my RX 300?
well i assumed you were talkin about an acura cl because you did post it in the second generation forums....

if you wanted to know how to do it on your truck im sure it wouldn't be here....
Old 10-25-2004, 07:37 PM
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When I rotate my tires I just use two floor jacks in the factory lift positions on one side.
Once the front & back are up I just swap those two tires.
Then I go to the other side.
It only takes about 30-45 minutes total.

Hope this helps,
Shawn S
Old 10-25-2004, 08:10 PM
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Same here, but I usually dont use jack stands. I got an AC-Dleco jack from Murrays for like $50 and it is a nice low profile so it fits under my mustang. I usually do them one side at a time so I dont have to worry about it rolling anywhere (my driveway is slightly uphill.

I just swapped all 4 of my mustang wheels and it took 30 minutes total, cut off 10 minutes from that if I was just rotating.

And a torque wrench is a MUST HAVE. Incorrectly torqued lug nits will warp rotors, cause vibration, and are plain not safe. I usually put a dab of oil on the studs so the lugs dont rust on, and torque the lugs to 95ft lbs.
Old 10-25-2004, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jtkz13
torque the lugs to 95ft lbs.
Torque on Acura/Honda is 80ft/lbs per lug! Talk about:
Originally Posted by jtkz13
Incorrectly torqued lug nits will warp rotors, cause vibration, and are plain not safe.
Old 10-25-2004, 09:24 PM
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Take care -- it's important...

Originally Posted by NiteQwill
Torque on Acura/Honda is 80ft/lbs per lug! Talk about:


If you don't seat the wheel by hand, then increase torque in small steps using a star pattern, and then finish by checking the torque, you can cause a lot of problems.

My SSR Comps even prefer a light coat of lithium grease on the lugs to make sure they snug-up on center (and the wheels have a hub centric ring insert). Having some monkeys’ torque the wheels up without using a star pattern and just using a "torque stick", was enough to cause the car to shake like crazy at 40-50 MPH.

Brakes rotors are easy to warp and the extra few minutes taken using a star pattern and the following will insure against rotor warp and runout problems:

1. Hand tighten.
2. Use star pattern with every step
3. Snug up (yes, star pattern)
4. Bring up to 20-30 ft/lbs.
5. Bring up to final factory recommended torque using a real torque wrench. (If they insist on using an impact gun -- some mechanics want to spin-brush their teeth, mix drinks and clean their rear with the sucker -- insist on them using a "torque stick" (it limits the torque and they come in different colors for different torques; it looks like an extension).

Torquesticks

Old 10-25-2004, 10:05 PM
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I was actually referring to my Mustang, sorry. I usually do the CL-S' to 85 ft lbs, just because I'd rather be 5lbs too tight than 5lbs too low.
Old 10-25-2004, 10:09 PM
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i only rortated my stock tires once i guess why they only lasted 20k miles, so with my new ones i just get em rotated every oil change @ the dealer
Old 10-25-2004, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jtkz13
I was actually referring to my Mustang, sorry. I usually do the CL-S' to 85 ft lbs, just because I'd rather be 5lbs too tight than 5lbs too low.
whew...... I thought you were gonna post a "I can't my lugs off" topic

I always follow the star pattern and torque wrench....
Old 10-25-2004, 11:05 PM
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Nah, 95 ft lbs isnt nearly enough to seize up on the studs, as long as the threads dont get rusted.
Old 10-26-2004, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by EricL
If you don't seat the wheel by hand, then increase torque in small steps using a star pattern, and then finish by checking the torque, you can cause a lot of problems.

My SSR Comps even prefer a light coat of lithium grease on the lugs to make sure they snug-up on center (and the wheels have a hub centric ring insert). Having some monkeys’ torque the wheels up without using a star pattern and just using a "torque stick", was enough to cause the car to shake like crazy at 40-50 MPH.

Brakes rotors are easy to warp and the extra few minutes taken using a star pattern and the following will insure against rotor warp and runout problems:

1. Hand tighten.
2. Use star pattern with every step
3. Snug up (yes, star pattern)
4. Bring up to 20-30 ft/lbs.
5. Bring up to final factory recommended torque using a real torque wrench. (If they insist on using an impact gun -- some mechanics want to spin-brush their teeth, mix drinks and clean their rear with the sucker -- insist on them using a "torque stick" (it limits the torque and they come in different colors for different torques; it looks like an extension).

Torquesticks

Good post, by following these simple rules you avoid problems down the line.
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