hey guys i need a little help here, i tried making a post earlier then was bashed...but the thing is i really need help and ideas..

i have a 98 accord sedan with a six speed tranny obviously a v6,




1. has anyone ran a steel braided line for the fuel line?? meaning, the rubber hose that extends from the firewall to the fuel rail itself.

2. i have heard of doing the steel braided clutch line as well, anyone done that or know the sizes off the top of your head or even know a kit i could get or something....

3. any problems i would have running the battery in the trunk?

4. im switching from the dizzy to direct ignition and im swapping the ecu and ignition, ill be running the stock j30 again, got extra motors, but what ecu should i run? j30? would a j32 do anything different?? cause my plan is to build my 3.5 and somewhere i heard of someone running j32 ecu wit j35

sorry for asking questions on this website but the competeing website is down, thats why im here.

but thanks to whoever can help

and i will post some pics but they will be from a cellphone

 

I'm pretty sure that guys here who have built their J32 to a 3.5 ran their stock ECU.
Why not pick up a J32 engine, then do the 3.5 from there. That's all the help i can give you...

 

you should use your j32 block with Rl pistons for the 3.5. lots of info on the TL side. as far as running the stock EU, you can do it, but you may run lean if you use the j32a2 cams fromt he type-s

 

Fuel lines are easy. Just get the braided line ($$$) and fittings (go with Earls) and fab them up. Make sure they don't leak though.

Check out ebay for 7th gen Accord clutch lines. They might fit, it does at least in the CL-S.

There shouldnt be any problems with running the battery in the trunk. Just run a battery box and get a sealed battery.

Cant help you on the ECU issue.

 

So when you did your cdd delete, all you had to do was install the 7th gen accord sized line and you were good to go? That's what has been keeping me from doin this simple easy mod. I thought i was going to have to pull off the hose and got match one up at the parts store. PITA, but if I had one ready to go I would be more inclined to do it already. Sorry for threadjack buts its on topic...

 

I would use the J32A2 heads if you can get a set. You should try to run an emanage or AEM piggy back ECU if it is within your budget so you can add fuel for the larger motor and have more control options. The stock ECM has limits to its corrective ability.


This is my J32A2 with the fuel lines you are asking about and an Aeromotive 1:1 FPR on my CLS6. Hope this helps.



Look at the bottom right of the picture and you can see where my CCD was. You dont need to buy anything. Just remove the damper and reattach the line to the steel line from the clutch master cylinder. You could swap the rubber part of the line to a braided steel line but I dont think the pedal feel would change that much.

 

ill look that up tonite, thanks for the info man, just cleanin up the engine bay, guess i should use some of that teflon tape around the threads..

 

i was running my j35 with my j30 ecu and that thing bout ran like crap!!! it actually did run like crap so i pulled it, doing the wire tuck, took out abs cruise control ran wire thru the fender, fuse box in under the dash... re routed brake lines...etc etc, ill post pics today

this is why i have so many questions, thanks for all the help and if anyone knows something i dont concerning this work, lmk!!!

 

Get an emanage or AEM and tune that monster. Let me know if I can help any further.

 

What is the benefit of running the fuel braided steel line as opposed the stock rubber line/hose.
Is the difference significant ??

 

^ my fuel lines are metal? so i dont know why they would make yours plastic thats dangerous.. and the braided lines add around 9-15 hp!!! j/k they just look good.

 

SS Fuel line is mainly bling, but it can shield the fuel if for some reason your rubber hose is rubbing on somethine. Unlikely event, but it's some security.

SlickShift- yea, I got the 7th gen SS clutch line on eBay for like $30 shipped. You could use your stock hose, but keep in mind, the clutch hoses are similar to the brake hoses. When you hit the brakes or press in the clutch, the rubber hose tends to expand. Not alot, but it can reduce feel and overall effectiveness. Using a stainless steel line will prevent if from expanding so all of the power you are using to press the clutch or brake line actually gets to the slave cylinder or brake calipers.