JZ0324

Noob here, sure. Noob to Honda/Acura's, not at all.

Your right. When I posted that comment, I didn't notice the multiple pages. Opps...no need to throw a fit like a 5 year old. Sensitive spot?

So did you just swap out the plugs and noticed the change? Fuel injection fluid or a pressurized cleaning? Maybe you had a fouled plug...How did they look?

Since you already have them sure. I know there are big gains to be had if they are comptech.

Well, you seemed not only concerned about a potental issue, but in general about your car being slow. I made a suggestion. Its a transsmission swap, not that complicated. If you can stand the car dropping in value a little, your talking, transmission, ecu, linkage, and some odd ends. If done right, it will be just as reliable as before. Allot of people have this reliability misconcetption about trans swaps.

A manual swap is far better money spent on speed/enjopyment than just about any bolt on. Right up there with a SC. Your choice of course.

Its not just weight that makes your car slower, its rotational mass. I'm sure you noticed it being slower since you put the rims on.

Lord Helmet

I'm sorry, man but to think doing some sort of tranny swap makes any sense for a car designed for an automatic, you need to have your head checked. There's a lot going on in there. And, yeah, I'm a bit sensitive over the "slow" factor. You would be too if some ass hat like yourself just popped in some guys thread and reiterated what other people were already saying without reading the thread first. Not too mention doing so without providing any ideas as to what the problem is except for a stupid comment about a not-so-cost-effective "tranny swap" :ghey: The car wouldn't drop in a "slight' value. It wouldn't be worth shit. And no... The wheels do NOT make the car any slower as I said before and there is more to it than just the plugs.

This will be the last time I will discuss my car with you. The last thing I'm going to do is take advice from some dude that's trying to get me to do a "tranny swap".

Lord Helmet

Ok, I thought about it and maybe I was a little harsh. Sorry. I was in a really shitty mood this morning and when I read your first post it really rubbed me the wrong way. Again, sorry...

Sun Diego CL-S

take a chill pill, Lord Chris.

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

With this motor NA, I wouldn't change the gap to .60-80 thou. I'd stick with what the manual says. If you have some aftermarket coils that are putting out 25% or more energy, then I'd say it's a candidate to increase the gap.

I'm running my plug gap at .030, but keep in mind, with a FI, especially a turbo, if you don't decrease the gap, the potential is there to "blow the spark out".

The iridium plugs come preset and I'd leave it at that. Peace.

ghost_masterCL

lol, if we can ever get those stock exhaust manifolds off.

on a side note, saturday is looking better and better. Looks like it's going to be in the low 60's on saturday, so that'll be a perfect day to do my cams.

Lord Helmet

No kidding! I might take it and have the bolts removed and replaced tomorrow if I can remember to do it.

Good thing you mentioned it! I did't even realize this Sat. was the 25th! Do you want to do it at your place or did you want to come down and we can use my folks garage again? If you have all the tools, we can do it in my garage at my condo as well. Either way is cool. How long do you think it will take? Seems like it's gonna be somewhat extensive. You don't have any stripped bolts do you?

ghost_masterCL

I'm not sure where I want to do it yet. I'm gonna have to say up here at my parents house since they have all the tools, and there always seems to be something that comes up that requires a tool I don't have in my box, so better safe than sorry I say.

I think it's going to take a couple hours to get the cams in, and after that it'll just take me a while to do the valve adjustments on all teh cylinders.

Lord Helmet

Sounds good. Just PM me with some directions and a time. Not too early though! I want to catch up on some 's now that I'm finally back at my place.

ghost_masterCL

probably won't do it before noon, I've got some testing to go to at 10:30, so noon should be perfect.

Lord Helmet

brianlin87

iTrader: (1)

pretty stupid comment imo.

you apparently have no clue how much is needed in accomplishing a 5at-6spd swap, it's not just tranny and gears the entire interior has to be changed out too.

:troutslap

Lord Helmet

blueglows

LMAO glad im on your good side Lord Helmet you seem very violent... anyway im glad you enjoyed the gate shifting but another tip with that is if you are burning out throught 1st gear and are going to burn out right before you switch into 2nd gear to, dont shift because your rev will drop a lot and you will end up at like 4.5k~ RPM. If you are burning out let it go past redline and hit the rev limiter until you get traction and then shift or just ease off the gas so you can gain traction then press down on it again and shit. This happens because the car is tricked into thinking that you are doing 40mph because yout wheels are spinning faster then you are traveling when burning out and after you shift, it gains traction and your speed and revs drop down to where they are supposed to be which causes you to loose speed and loose revs.

If you dont or cant burn out throughout 1st gear then dissregard all ^^^^ that shit.

Lord Helmet

Actually, I am about the most mellow person you would ever meet. I was just in a really shitty mood this morning. (co-worker pissed me off ) So I kinda took it out on OOPS!

I guess I should have been more clear on my gate shifting experience. When I said "burn" thru first and second gears, I didn't mean I was spinning out. I meant the car felt REALLY strong, like the day I drove her home from the dealer. I mean, I really had to watch the tach because 1st was over QUICK. It wasn't spinning, I just broke loose a little when it hit 2nd. Actually it's really hard to get these new Generals to break loose. My old Falkens would have been toast in that run.

I see what you're saying about hitting the rev limiter but wouldn't that in turn, slow me down? I've since tried it a few more times, trying to get better at it but it seems like no matter where I try and hit 2nd, I always bump the limiter because it takes so long for the tranny to change gears. Stupid tranny! Exactly what was Acura thinking when they decided you couldn't shift from 1st to 2nd in SS mode but gave you the gate shifter so you could do it anyway? Doesn't the tranny shift slightly quicker in SS mode? I thought I read that on "Everything you wanted to know"? I wish there was a way to defeat that. I'm sure if there was, someone would have done it by now and it would be the first "mod" all of us 5AT guys would do.

JZ0324

That was a off topic comment that I made and was before I knew that he already had the headers. By all means, put them on and get rid of that shit secondaries/collector design.

I have been working with Honda/Acura's for almost 9 years now, as well as other imports. Specifically, real work and matience such as suspension, clutch/flywheel, motor work, bolt ons, brakes, etc. I also helped my cosin with his H22/lsd tranny swap into his 95 auto accord and swapped my prelude for a built motor and converted it to OBD1.

Conceptually without knowing a ton about the CL, the swap would require the tranny, new tranny mounts, 6mt ecu, new mating harness, shifter w/linkage, driver console w/tach/speedo, and a bunch of odd ends.

There is allot of misconception of reliablily once a motor or tranny swap is done. This comming from bad, imcomplete swaps and disaster stories about automotive shops. When a swap is done right, physcally and ecu wise, it is just as good as intended by honda or better.

I only mentioned it OT and that anyone with a auto should not rule this out in their quest for speed. This of course would depend on their plans and if they were goin to keep the car till the wheels fall off, good shop availability, funds, etc.

Anyways, didnt mean to open a can of worms here guys. Another topic, another time.

Glad to hear the car is back to normal LH!

Lord Helmet

It's not but thanks for your concern. It's slow spiraticly. It's weird.

blueglows

The gate shift is not there for shifting up, its there to "hold the gear" and to down shift. For example if you are flooring it and try to shift at 3k rpm in 2nd gear to go into 3rd, (when gate shifting) it will not let you do it. The tranny will hold 2nd gear all the way up to 6.5k rpm and then shift. It acts just as if it was in drive. But if you are in 2nd gear and floor it and when the rpm hits 4k and you shitf up in SS mode, you force the tranny to shift into third even though it will lose a lot of power when you are looking for maximum power (you are flooring your car and need to shift at high rpm's to get the most power out of it). The only place where gate shift forces the car to shift is from 1st gear to 2nd gear. This is because if you leave the shifter in 2nd in gate shift, you car will start out in 2nd gear even if you are stoped and hold second gear until you hit 70mph even if you floor it and need more power. (it will not down shift automatically into 1st like it does if you are in 2nd gear in SS and floor it and you are within range of 1st gear.) This is because Acura made it possible to start in 2nd gear when you are stoped so that you have more traction durring snow/icy conditions instead of hacing to take it easy on the gas pedal when starting out in 1st gear when there is ice on the road.
As a result it takes longer for the gar to shift from 2>3>4>D5 in gate shift because all you are doing is holding the gear not actually upshifting, the car does the upshifting when you allow it to but you shiting up. So basically you are telling the car you can shift up now after you go from 2nd gear to 3rd in gate shift but the car can shift up at the second if it has reached its maximum power in that gear or it can wait until it hits 6.5k rpm to shift. So gate shifting is only good for holding the RPM up to redline in 1>2 but other then that for upshifting before redline, use SS.
However for downshifting, gate shift and SS are pretty much the same except that in SS if you are going to fast to shift into 2nd it will flash and you will need to try again after you slow down, or if you want to go into 2nd but are going to fast, if you throw it down to 2 in gate shift and begin to slow down, as soon as the car has reached a speed where 2nd can engage it will automatically shift so you dont have to keep trying yourself. (good if you are switching lanes or braking and need both hands on the wheel)

Hope you got that... i will post a vid tonight similar to yours so that you can compare speed/HP

Lord Helmet

Not to be rude but... Thank you

I think you missed what I was saying in your quote of my previous post. Regarding what I said about "defeating that" was in regards to the automatic 1st to 2nd shift in SS mode. Too bad we can't get rid of that.




For the record, I would like everyone here to know that I am not an idiot and I do know a little bit about cars.

blueglows

haha yea i guess i missed that... i wasnt trying to make anyone look like they did not know about cars i just wanted to show the difference between gate shifting up and down and SS shifting up/down... i didnt know it too good when i first got the car...
i have been trying to post up my vid that is similar to yours so you can compare but its not working... does anyone feel like hosting it for me... its a nice little burnout through 1st gear from inside the car... its like 20sec long if not less

Lord Helmet

Do you have an IM? I think you can transfer it to me and I'll host it for you...

blueglows

its hbplaya101@aol.com

Lord Helmet

sign in and I'll hit you up and you can transfer the file to me.