i just bought my first first Acura 2001 3.2 cl type 2 at an auction, red over black, 144k, auto .... I knew they were quick cars but I've been over in the world of BMW's for the last 10 yrs. .... but when I drove it home it ran rough, cel was on, d5 blinking, srs light on so I ran the codes 7 came up 4 of them were P0300, 01,02,04,06 ..... so i'll start off with this question ... Should i replace all 6 coil packs or just the bad ones?

 

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Congrats!

IMHO, it would be most prudent to investigate any codes causing that d5 to blink, yes?
Hopefully one of the two undivulged codes is not a P0740?

 

well today when i drove it, the D5 blinking light was no longer there ... but the cel went from blinking to solid depending on how fast i started from a dead stop, so at this point I want to fix the rough running engine .. which leads me back to my original question .. Should I replace all 6 coil packs or just the 4 that puttig up a code?

 

All 6. However odds of that many going bad at once is unlikely. But being a new car might as well along with ngk or denso spark plugs.

 

Pull the coil packs 1 by 1 when the engine running. If there is no change in the roughness, then that coil pack is bad. 1 by 1 as in unplug one, test, then plug back in and do the next one.
Since it's a new to you car, probably best to start doing the basics. Spark plugs, oil change, maybe some sea foam, probably want to get the valves adjusted, check to see the engine is in time & the condition of the belt. Valve clearance not being in spec can cause misfiring. Easy job, just tedious.

As for your blinking D5 light, it could be caused by a bad transmission temp sensor. Mine has been doing that recently, usually after some spirited driving, but is erratic on when it wants to show up. If nothing is inherently wrong with the transmission (yet), like bucking, hesitating to shift, slipping, then at least your good there. But I would start planning for a new transmission if you plan on keeping this car.

What are you plans for it?

 

+1, all new plugs, then try the coil pack unplug/re-plug to check for any change in idle.

blinking check engine light indicates a bad misfire is occurring right then.

 

thanks .... just got the NGK spark plugs will try those first and see where that leads me ...Amazon has the NGK coils and spark plugs as a set for $124 (wish i had seen that before I spent $60 on the plugs alone at the local parts store)
to fireball: as far as my plans go for it ..... I have always enjoyed have some version of a get-up-n-go car but have always had either a german/british/american version this is the first asian one i have owned and it has great history and is somewhat approaching collectable and considering at this point I have only $1500 into it ... I'll probally will keep it for awhile

 

after putting in new plugs and coils ...... the car ran great ..... fired right up > smooth > and QUICK ....... cleared the CEL and have since put 50 - 60 miles on it and NO more CEL ... Passed DEQ ...... Did I say that it is QUICK .... I am impressed with its get-up-n-go speed but more then that I love all the luxury things it has ....heated seats, heated mirrors, HID headlights, power windows, power seats ( way cool when someone gets in the back and the seat automatically goes forward and then back), rear defroster, Bose speakers .. I haven't had a car this nice, ever since I sold my 98 740i BMW ..... BUT now for the BAD .... PUTTING IN THE PLUGS AND COILS IN THE BACK OF THE ENGINE ....WOW.... WHAT A PAIN IN THE B%*T ..... I had to remove the anti-sway bar, a hose just to get to replace the plugs/coils and it still wasn't easy ......total investment so far $1750 ...... NEXT mission Brakes

 

Your heated seats work? Man, I'm jealous.
The coil burned out on the bottom where the stitching is. Tried repairing it once, but it kept getting hot at that one point, burning me, then died again.

You can do coil packs & spark plugs with the bar in. Just takes some finessing. But definitely a pain in the arse. Once I have the rear packs out, I stick an extension with my sparkplug socket down the tube, then throw my ratchet on, then loosen it, then twist the rest by hand with the ratchet off and pull it out.

Oh, and if you want to add more power to the car, headers will net you a significant gains.

 

$1750? Hope that includes the price of the car.

In any case, good to hear the misfires were solved.

 

UPDATE: After going thru the time and frustration of getting the new coils installed .... I will have to do it all over again ... and it is my fault (sorta) .... we all know the story of "You get what you pay for" and in my desire to get the parts quickly and trying to save money, I bought a set of 6coils for $66 (from Amazon) that claimed they were compatable with my car .... NEWS FLASH they weren't .... the wire connection to the coil would not lock on, resulting in a loose connection which allowed for moisture to get inside the connection > engine misfire and the connection vibrating loose.
I tried modifing the coil by filing off the very top of the coil, hoping that would help and after 1hr time spent on 2 coils and no success, I have decided to return the coils and go with the NGK coils ..... We live and we learn!

 

Go with either Denso Or NGK, rockauto always has a competitive price before shipping. You can even find a 5% discount code by searching the net:

 

Save your original coils; even the new coils on rock auto have a chance of being DOA; not likely, but in case there is one; you have a spare to check it against.

 

..... good idea, thanks

 

WELL ... I'm back to the same problem engine running rough again, check engine lite is on, code reads Misfire in #1, #3, #6 .... I just put in 3 new coils in those exact locations 2 weeks ago and it ran fine for 2 weeks ...... So I've put in new plugs, new coils, new temp sensor ..... what's the Frak next .... Injectors? .... fuel filter clogged ? ..... one code reads that I have excess air intake past the mass air flow sensor ..... HELP

 

I always like to go through and do all the regular maintenance, then erase all the codes, then deal with the codes that pop up. Many times some/all of those codes never come back.

Spark plugs
oil and filter
air filter
fuel filter is part of the fuel pump housing in the tank.
Run 91 or better octane gas.
Put some Techron Concentrate Plus in a low tank and then fill up with 91.
PCV

Just all the regular maintenance stuff.

Oh. Use only Honda fluids. Use OEM stuff. Denso is great. NGK is great for ignition related.

Be really careful buying parts on Ebay and even Amazon. Sometimes you can run into knock-off shit at both places.

 

Air not metered code? How is the idle? Vacuum leak? Hoses on the back of the manifold and fuel pressure regulator. Miss fires during idle? Under acceleration? Only hard acceleration? You check your ground wires to the motor and body? Is it after you wash it/ rain?