Im pretty sure they dont have a after market cam out for our cars yet... but does anyone know of another j series that has a more aggressive cam we can use, for example... B series motors can swap out their gsr cams for more aggressive type r cams...

I want to do another mod to my car, but i feel that plenums, bigger TB, test pipe, and exhaust aren't really worth the money.

as of now I have aem cai, ur ud pulleys, p2r tb spacer, and XS headers


Thanks,

Chase

 

cams are gonna run you more than plenums, tb, and/or rest pipe.


Hollow your cams out? They will spin a lot faster.... e46 m3 runs hollow cams so it must be safe

 

Anyone have any more information on Hollowing out our cams? If this is something practical? Any thoughts positive or negative?

 

And there will not be any.

As far as I know you have to go custom.

 

well, hollow cams are run on numerous vehicles. However, they are cast that way. I'm not sure the strength or durability of taking a cam that was cast solid, and hollowing it out.

IF, and I say IF... it is anything like drilling holes in rotors (professionally of course) to give them the drilled look, the durability will significantly decrease.

 

dont 3g tl have hollow cams?

 

yes the 07-08 TLS cams are hollow. They have to be made to fit with a extension i believe

 

I think types does

 

the 07-08 TL-S uses forged hollow cams. You can get them to work but you would have to use a high precision spacer because the cams are 3mm shorter then the CLS cams.

 

or you can just cut the difference off the orginal CLS cams to make the spacer for the TLS cams. On top of that you can even buy the TLS cams and have them regrinded to make more HP

 

CLS CAM above
TLS CAM below

 

regrinds FTL......

 

yea but if you have no experience with them then your opinion is useless. Just like how you were downing a 3 inch exhuast that you also had no experience with but when I proved you wrong you now all of a sudden want to consider it. People like you just listen to everyone else and spread the same word because then other people are scared to take risk and do things outside of what has be said to be "acceptable" by others. In my opinion this is why we do not have man 300whp NA CLs running around here. Because of people like you.

REGRINDS are find as long as they are put together well enough that you cant even tell they are regrinds. ITS ALL IN THE QUALITY.

 

lol duh.... but the hp will be muuuch more than 2 to 4 hp

 

....I ran regrinds in my first car because companies did not produce cams for a EW4 honda motor...86SI...so long ago.. They were fine BUT they seemed to have worn a bit quicker. Now sure, you can get the cams regrinded, but wouldn't it be better to mass produce cams that are solid and not regrinds? I'm not going to argue on what I believe about regrinds and cams...

Now for the whole exhaust ordeal. I don't believe that I have once said that teh whole 3" exhaust was going to do squat. I did say what I was planning on running and you shot it down the drain...Not once have I EVER said something that I myself have had no experiance with....The whole issue behind all this is people taking the risk of running something different and not knowing what you may produce. Either it be positive which everyone hopes for or negative which is why there is R&D. I'm not going to lie....my build i'm hoping for the right numbers but if it doesn't i'm not going to sweat about it. Look at it like this, if you get something negative. It helps other know that its no good.

 

your right, I just checked backed on my PM messages and you didnt shoot down my exhuast idea, just said what you were going with. I shot yours down the drain because I didnt see what gain you were going to get going from a updraded 2.5 mid section then back down to stock size of 2.25 at the Y pipe.

 

Why not? thats what im running dual 2.25" after the 2.5" midpipe. The split section has a cross sectional area higher then that of a single 3.0"

Plus what do you think honda did in the first place 2.25" then it split into 2.0" they reduced backpressure by a controlled amount by doing it this way, it is not without warrant.

With that kind of logic you must ask your self should all single piping on your car be 3.0"? If so I really doubt any j-pipe collector you might have on your car is going to accomplish this, the biggest you can get has a 2.5" collector and Comptech's is only 2.0" custom is your only way to 3.0"

Then theres always the balance of exhaust gas velocity smaller piping at the cylinder heads and then gets bigger as it goes down, as demonstrated with the F22C1 bolt on package designed by Hytech that got them 283whp NA.

Anyhow, some food for thought.

 

i think the 3 inch exhuast makes sense and u proved a lot of people wrong. But i also think it had net benefits becos it is very likely u increased ur engine displacement(>3.2).
A lot of 3.2 did it and did not but loose low end grunt (torque).

It seems the 3.2 is already free flowing the way it is already. But offcourse when u making a lot more power, from FI or bigger strokers then it makes sense.

 

huh? what would be more then 2-4 hp?

 

We just finished a custom regrind for a customer. I can not list specs on the cam as the owner is someone on this forum, and it will be up to them if they post up the specs or not. Regrinds hold up well, technology is a lot better these days than in the past. Ofcourse a production billet cam would be better,however, its not goin to happen for these cars, as i dont think any company will invest the amount of money needed into a set of cams for these engines, unless they somehow became very popular.

 

its specs, who cares? you guys seem sketchy. like its some top secret james bond shit

 

what does it matter if your not going to get them?

 

um, a more aggressive cam.

 

ew nice, i would love to see a dyno on the regrind.... might have to buy an extra and send it to you guys at p2r

 

How will the ECU take to this regrind? I know you said you would not post the specs, but what did you guys do? Increase lift, duration only? And will it work with the rest of the factory valvetrain?

Thanks

 

It is just specs, but since its custom specs and not an off the shelf, we cannot list, unless the customer would like. What’s sketchy about that? Would you buy something from a company who will go ahead and post up your complete custom build without your permission?

As a side note. The cam in this picture is for a J32A3 not a J32A2, so it’s not for CLS6SpeedNupe car as most of you are assuming.

And since the cams are custom, the specs will not help you any, because if we did a set for anyone else, the specs would be different from this set. Because the lift and everything will be setup based on mods of the car it’s going on plus if they are installing valves springs, etc.

 

Do you guys know what the max lift would be for the J32A2, without having to cut valve guides down? On a stock spring and retainer.

 

The cam can be setup to work with factory springs & it can also be setup to work with aftermarket springs. Now there are limitations on how big you can go with a regrind cam before you start runnning into problems. Also the way these heads are setup, you run into other complications when trying to go to big on the camshaft also.

We already make High Compression Stainless Nitride Coated Valves for the J32A2, and we are in the process of making stiffer springs and titanium retainers. After that we are going to take a break on making J series parts for a lil bit



Honestly I couldn't tell you how the ecu will react to the cams, but you will surly need to do some tuning.

 

I'm pretty sure he was being sarcastic. Not somthing you wanna try. And they will not spin any faster! I'm sure he was kidding about that too.

 

who said ANYTHING about it being 2-4 hp??

 

how do you know? I don't recall being interested in them or not?

 

incorrect, lighter and or hollow cams will spin faster and make power. Thats where the TLS makes more power over the TL base in addiction to the .3 increase.

you guys got to remember that motors are nothing but a air pump.. the quicker you can make the motor pull the air in and then push it out then the more power you will make. Thus CAM controls the air flow that the motor pumps so the lighter that is... the faster it will spin (or pump)... then the more power you will make

 

MEEE I DID

I have seen dynos with exhaust/test pipe/and TB... only adding 2 to 4 hp each... which is not with my money and/or time... shit,

Thats why im looking for an alternative like a more aggressive cam, i would go with tuning but im not totally convinced the apexi piggy backs dont get overridden by our ECU's

 

pure sex.

 

Ah no a hollow cam will not "Spin Faster",any faster than a solid cam, it might allow the engine to rev quiker. As you know the cam hollow or not is directly linked to the crank. Its a fixed speed directly proportionate to crank speed. A solid cam can turn every bit as fast as a hollow cam. Hollow cam might allow the engine to rev quiker, or get to redline quiker. I know what you mean by it, but I think the wrong termanology was being used. Its give a person with less knowledge a false idea. Its just less rotating mass so rotational exceleration is improved.

 

but doesnt rotational exeleration is improved also = SPIN FASTER ??

 

Maybe more like "Spin up Quicker", or spool up quicker.

To me, fast is the top speed. Quick is how fast something excelerates.

I think we are both tracking here, but respectfully disagree on the termanology being used.

Do you agree that a cam shaft only spins as fast as the crank shaft does? (Actually it spins at half the speed of the crank at all times) That there is no variation in speed, and is a constant speed fixed to the crankshaft. So really a hollowed out cam will not spin faster than a solid cam. Just excelerate with less force.

 

lighter = rotational mass is reduced and spins quicker from low rpm to high rpm.

Think of it like this. Its like a lightened crank pully. Same dimension, but lighter thats why you rev quicker.

 

mmmmmmm.....ok

 

What you need to do is put some nitrous in your car . Best Bang for your Buck. Even if you put a more aggressive cam in your car, you are only going to pick up a few hp if you do not have any other supporting mods. An all motor setup is all about combination.
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A lighter cam does not make an engine spin faster, nor does a lighter crankshaft either. As a engine spinning faster means higher RPM. Remember RPM = Rotations Per Minute. So the only way an engine is actually spinning faster, is by revving the car past its rev limiter.

Lighter parts help the engine to spin more freely, allowing the engine to reach its rev limit and back quicker. For example a lightweight flywheel is a part that you will surly feel the engine rev up quicker; however when you step on the clutch, you will also see it decrease rpm a lot quicker also.