peakpowermotoring

This installation took about 2 hours including my subway lunch break and the replacement of my spark plugs in addition to the headers. The tools you need are basic tools, 14mm sockets, 12mm sockets, 10mm sockets, swivel extensions and either WD40 or liquid wrench.

First you start off by spraying all the exhaust bolts with either WD40 or liquid wrench ( I used liquid wrench). Remember folks, the vehicle has to be cold for the installation of the headers. If you spray any sort of lubricant on a hot exhaust manifold or pipe it will evaporate and you will have a steamy situation.








The next step is to remove the strut bar which includes 8 12mm nuts which need to be removed. Some people might argue about removing the strut bar but I removed it because its much easier to work without a big piece of metal in the way.




Next remove this thingie which i'm not too familiar with but I think it is related to the cruise control.



By this time all the bolts should be lubricate and are ready for removal. Loosen all the exhaust bolts. The bolts connecting the bottom half will be a little more difficult, so you might want to use a big pipe to slide over the ratchet for greater leverage. Once you loosened all the header bolts, disconnect and remove the o2 sensor off the header.



Next, remove the headers completely. The OEM headers should look like this when you remove them, if they dont then you dont have OEM headers!



Next, quickly compare the OEM and aftermarket headers...




Next, install all the necessary gaskets that come with the kit and install the new aftermarket headers. Hand tighten all the nuts for proper fitment. Once you have hand tightened all the nuts, tighten all the nuts to specific torque specs. Reinstall the o2 sensor, make sure not to damage the o2 sensor.



The last step is to make sure everything is tightened and turn on the vehicle. Check the top and bottom of the headers for leaks or any abnormal or unusual sounds. You may experience slight smoke or a funny smell coming from the headers. This is caused by the new gaskets being broken in as well as some WD40 or liquid wrench still on the exhaust system.






Your headers are now successfully installed, enjoy!

peakpowermotoring

But damnit I think I hear resonance....

shinybluecls

yup megans are known to give off resonance...one of the few reasons i don't like them...that and the fact that it took them 4 different batches of downpipes to address an issue with the downpipe hitting the oil pan.

that's the imrc. Basically at 4100rpm, it turns and opens the secondary intake. It's something thats only on the Type S and there have been many cases where the actuator breaks and causes you to lose a good amount of power after 4100 rpm. Just a heads up...good thing to check if you ever feel your car isnt performing as well as usual.

peakpowermotoring

So only the megan headers have resonance? If so, thats very poor product design by their part...

kensukikatayo

A few others with different brands other than Comptech have resonance too. But now my Megans sound like a civic fart can... I banged it up last night I guess going into a dip and it changed the sound... That's just retarded... I've had it with these Megans, I'm selling them for $150 once I buy Comptechs, I'm definitely not looking forward to the install again...

Hope yours don't have the same problems as mine.

Smitty

cruise control..

IMRC (intake Manifold Runner Control)

shineyblue set u str8..

get what you pay for, but I will not go there since it has been beaten to death...

kensukikatayo

Yea... I learned my lesson.

allmotor_2000

You don't have to remove the strut-bar and IMRC servo... but I suppose taking the rear manifold off from the top is easier this way!

peakpowermotoring

Okay I just test drove the car and I think theres something wrong with my IMRC. There isnt much power, but I still hit VTEC. How can I check to see if its working correctly or working at all?

mclarenf3387

The best way is for someone to rev the engine past 4100 RPM or wherever it opens at, and see if the IMRC servo is pulling the cable to open the secondary runners.

belcom

iTrader: (1)

I'm still waiting for my AW headers to come in (got a defective set and damn AW replacement process sucks c@ck). I'm fucking steaming out of my ears right now.
But in any case...

I was wondering if it would be a good idea to use some liquid gasket stuff on top of the supplied gaskets to make sure there's no leak 100%. What do you think about this?

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

That's what I did and I also did it by pulling on the cable til it opened. You should see it turn a little (when it opens) and hear a click.

peakpowermotoring

Okay I checked it this morning and it does open but I still have a loss in power. I'm thinking this is caused by the spark plugs. I replaced them with the ngk iridiums and it didnt run right afterwards. It kinda feels as though its pulling timing, very weird. Any suggestions?

peakpowermotoring

I have another question for the experts, I hear a weird noise from 3k rpm and above all the way to redline. Is this the resonance you guys are talking about? It kinda sounds like a small exhaust leak, but when i check it at idle it really doesnt show anything. Only when its under load and above 3k rpm...

cltypeSLOW

^^^ thats resonance...its not a leak. you cant get rid of it. it will only get worse as the pipes break in. i cant wait to get my megans off the sound is so freakin annoying.

peakpowermotoring

So comptech is the only header that doesnt have resonance?

belcom

iTrader: (1)

supposedly Alphawerks headers have no resonance, for about half the price of comptechs.

KahRupt-CL-S03

I installed an extra gasket between the cat and the downpipe and reduced the resonance tremendously, It's still there but could bearly notice, try that.

peakpowermotoring

So this damn resonance is something like an exhaust leak? I dont get it, some people say it isnt some people say it is. If i put more gaskets will it take the noise away? Because its freakin annoying!

KahRupt-CL-S03

It worked for me, I lived with that damn noise for about 6 months till I gave it a try and drove out the shop with the car quiet as hell, I was already used to the little cricket sound in the exhaust that’s why, also took off the by-pass valve off my AEM and made the sound on the CAI more aggressive while in WOT.
*Note, Just be careful with that stupid flex in the front that shouldn’t even be there, any bumps or dips that is the first thing you will hit and hello cricket sound again.

kensukikatayo

Yea.. that's what happened to me... hit the front flex.

peakpowermotoring

So the resonance is definently a leak. I'll just seal everything up real nice.

kensukikatayo

Tell us how it goes, if I could fix it all with just sealing everything instead of buying new headers that would be AWESOME!

Nice DIY btw.

GOLDMAMO

i am a bit unclear un where the AW are good. do they have the problem with the flex, resonance? i also understand that they fit better than the megan header. is this correct?

peakpowermotoring

I dont understand why its so damn tough to make these headers fit and sound right. Its just freakin headers! I dont see any difference between the AW and the MR only the flex part in the front. Unless the gaskets are different. I know the original ones have o-ring type of gaskets and so do comptechs. But i'm not sure about AW and MR. If thats the case i'll do what all my turbo buddies do and that is to put either copper or red high temp silicone and it'll hold just fine. These are sensor safe and they work. Turbos have much higher exhaust pressures than we do, so if it works on turbos it should work on our applications...

cltypeSLOW

its the insides...jagged welds with funny gaps in the pipes on the inside=resonance...theres a HUGE thread about some guy that had these probs with some AW headers search is your friend. it may look pretty on the outside but the megans and shit on the inside.

peakpowermotoring

Funny you should say that. Before I installed it I looked on the inside of the manifolds and one of them was perfect but the other was horrible. There was a big piece of metal sticking out which was obviously the 3 connecting pipes. I just thought that was the design and didnt feel like getting my hands cut for a stupid reason so i ignored it. If thats the case i'm gonna go to my buddy who owns a muffler shop, remove the top portion and cut the living shit outta that extra metal. Then i'll put some copper silicone on all the gaskets and seal those damn exhaust gases. If that doesnt help i'll remove the headers, get my sledgehammer and give it the best beating of its life!

kensukikatayo

And then go with Comptechs?

ChucksCL-S

Funny that three months ago I bought the A/W headers here and put them on with no problems and they do not resonate. I want people to know that at least from my viewpoint they are pretty good. Just my 2CW. Hope the rest of you make out OK, as I do know that unwanted exhaust noise is a pain.

kensukikatayo

I envy your luck. Haha I'm just waiting for more money so I can replace these, can't wait to get rid of the fart can sound.

iisylentii

i heard the lawn mower sound that the megan headers make is the cat vibrating because there is to much air going into such a a small hole so it makes it vibrate and make your car sound like a lawn mower and he told me all i have to do is put a racing cat on or take it off and u will b fine but i dont know if he was just telling me that to make a sale or if its really true ?

cltypeSLOW

they are just POS. save your money for comptechs or AW.