poisx7

iTrader: (1)

This started about 2 months ago (https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/any-insights-engine-suddenly-cuts-off-running-801695/)

idle problem or car stalling at least once out of every 3 instances.

From my previous post ....(engine suddenly cuts off running)

I have heard that our cars react differently in cold weather, (hard starts, erratic starts or not running smoothly)

But this really was the 1st. I put some gas in my car yesterday after driving in on E (light on ) for about 10 miles in cold weather, started her up no problem and drove another 45miles on the highway headed to the car wash and Let the car run as i washed it and after abt 15mins into this the car just shut itself off.
I restart and it hesitates for a sec and starts right back up.
I drive it for 10 mins, finally get home and leave engine running to go open the door and before I got back engine turns itself OFF.

and I am begin to wonder what could cause this ?
No check engine light ON.


>>>>>>>>>> fasttttt>>forwardddd to 2 months>>>>>

Since then i have done 2 seafoam cleaning , exhaust checked 4 leaks, oil change, put new NGK IR spark plugs, Put in new calipers, hoes & bleeded the brake system but the problem is still there ( i initially thut my Original Spark plugs was the culprit since they were at the 100k mark) but no luck.

besides the stall at idle without giving it a lil gas (car drives so quiet at idle I sometimes cant tell if the engine is running or not) , Mechanic says thats a good thing

>. Car drives Ok,
>>.engine revs smooth
>>>.Even after warm up or 45 mins drive it will stall if left on park or idle 30% of the time. However it starts right back up once u crank it.

>>>>. still NO Check engine lights on dash


$$$ dont lUV me rght now, any help will be appreciated.
it seems my car is trying to :rippedoff

CH46ESeaKnight

IAC? Idle Air Control Valve?

poisx7

iTrader: (1)

thanks got a pic or any illustrations.

Do i adjust it or do i replace it ??

thanks in advance.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Does the car start right up everytime after it stalls ?
When it stalls are you losing spark or fuel pressure ?
Have you check throttle cable slack ?
Have you check for manifold clogging?

A cloged fuel pump sock could make that happen.Stuff will collect while the cars running and when it gets blocked fully it will stall the car. When you shut the car off the collected stuff will fall off the sock and allow you to restart till it collects again.
Bad piece in your ignition system could do it too.Having itermediate spark.
Like crank sensor,ignition modual,if our cars have one. I'm putting a crank sensor and a ignition modual in my olds 88 today. Because it stalls once and a while and when it stalls there is no spark.
I don't know if any of these are your issues but,There's my input.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

for w/e it's worth I had this happen to me 8 months after buying the car and i was stuck in the middle of Toronto and that was an hour practically from my home and woulda cost me a fortune to get back to my place. and i didn't have a CEL or anything to help me pinpoint the culprit.

so i just disconnected the battery, pulled the 7.5 amp fuse turned on the headlights and waited 15 mins.

then i started it up.. and it was stil acting a bit weird... when i put it in gear it'd stall out... so i reved it up to 1500 then put it in reverse got the car to stay on in gear... then threw it in d5 and everything was perfect after that.

I've had some weird things happen that were surely electronic issues and 3 times the ecu reset did the job.

not saying that's gonna fix it... but it surely should be the first thing u try. cause it's saved my bacon several times

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

That's definitely what I would try first,it won't hurt anything.That's for sure.

SimonCL-S6

Happens to me too on warm startup sometimes. Im gonna clean the throttle body in the spring maybe that will help. People have had this problem and replace the IAC and it didnt help. You can give it a try since youve tried everything else

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

sounds like the motor is running fine but a sensor is outta wack. maybe unplug and re-plug in everything to make sure u got all good connections. check for corrosion anywhere or a bad ground (i found one on my car near the auto trans filter for w/e that's worth)

you said it started after u began washing the car? any chance u got water into something that shouldn't have water in it and the cold is making it so it cannot evaporate? that's a highly unlikely scenario tho

but if i had to put my money on anything I'd still point at the IAC.. cause it only works at idle.. and the warmer it gets in there the more work it has to do and the more likely it is that it may malfunction. your problem is HEAT related in the sense that something is choking ur motor out (so it seems)

I went through 3 IACs on my ford probe before it idled properly and no CEL. ur not getting a CEL because w/e is causing the problem isn't malfunctioning all the time and or the ecu doesn't see it malfunctioning all the time.

if you go to the DLR the good news is they will only replace what needs to be fixed and in this scenario I think that may be the route to go since you are in the trial and error phaze.

for the future I'd get 2 oil catch cans and install them after cleaning out the manifold and intake and tb(s) then u won't have a junk problem. and it helps keep some of the sensors clean as well.

that in conjunction with using name brand premium should significant reduce the likelyhood of b.s problems in the future.


I'm ordering a second catch can in a few days once the auction is done..

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

it's gotta be fuel or sensor related.

hooking up a fuel pressure gauge would let u know if there is an issue of any kinda, but u'd think it'd hurt the overall performance of the motor anyway.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

My trans ground was really bad too.
I just replace mine the other day. I made one with 4 gauge wire and gold rings.

SimonCL-S6

i read somewhere it could be the tps sensor

poisx7

iTrader: (1)

i agree it is fuel related or sensor , i too i am leaning towards the IAC valve but i dnt know how to fix it , might go d dealer route.

but 4 now, i am (disconnectin)takin the battery connection out 4 like 10 min 2morrow to reset the ecu.

thanks all.

any body have an illustration of the Idle Air Control Valve?
maybe this will work ...http://www.ehow.com/how_4827530_clea...rol-valve.html

poisx7

iTrader: (1)

my ground wire is not so good but i doubt changing it makes much of a diffrence becos bck when modding honda civic/ preludes 2 the teeth was d thing I have had friends go spend a lot of $$$ on ground effects wires and thicker cable only to make the same or less HP, but I know it helps reduce feedback(dirty noise) on audio equipment & better juice/power to d amps.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

yea my ground was hanging on by a thread which is why i mentioned it.

IACV or TPS is probably the culprit.

I checked my tps on my car and it looks like it's held on by rivets or something. cause I dunno what tool you are supposed to have in order to swivel the sensor slightly or to remove it... maybe just have to replace instead of playing around with it.

either way tho it looks like ur in the trial and error phase. and the symptom you get sounds kinda hard to find which makes you wonder whether or not the DLR will actually find and resolve the issue.. or claim they fixed it and charge u for it... which i hope doesn't happen, but who knows.

some DLRs are great and others are just there to empty ur pockets

poisx7

iTrader: (1)

anybody gots diagram or any DIY for the IAC/Idle Air Control Valve.
I cant find it anywhere, and the videos on youtube look a lot diffrent frm what I c on our cars.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUkCCwqU3eU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i82s4...3368AC&index=2

poisx7

iTrader: (1)

it seems this is what i need

but i cannot figure at the actual location,
talkless of attempting a DIY becos ( the one under the engine cover looks different frm this)

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

IAC is directly underneath the throttle body nearest to the manifold,

pretty darn sure at least