Looking for advice with MANUAL transmission problem
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Looking for advice with MANUAL transmission problem
I know, I know, thought I was good to go when my '02 Accord Coupe's automatic tranny failed and I picked up my '03 CL-S 6-Speed which had been completely rebuilt through an Acura dealership in Georgia... Not
The transmission rebuild was around 80 or 85k miles, don't quote me. I picked up the car at just around 99k, and she now has just under 117k. Transmission-wise I did do a drain and fill using the updated Honda fluid. Definitely noticed much better shifting but still felt the shifting has never been as smooth as an Acura should be. When my interior was out for audio installation I played around with some minor adjusting of the excess play in the shift knob trying to get a bit more crisp response.
Over the last month I started to notice a grind when going into 3rd occasionally. I thought it was because I was wearing my work boots home an it seemed to be ok shifting when I was very careful to COMPLETELY press the clutch down all the way. Now that doesn't work anymore. I can still drive the car, but I have to ensure the RPM's go below about 2750-2500 before attempting to shift from 2nd to 3rd.... Note, it does not present a problem during downshifts.
I'm (now!) aware of the Acura Service Bulletin (08-018) I think off the top of my head, which cites a fault 3rd gear synchro or 3/4 shift collar. I've spoken with a transmission guy that has good reviews. He asked if I have tried adjusting the clutch. My plan of attack is (1) drain and fill using GM Syncromesh fluid; (2) bleed and check clutch fluid and also bleed the clutch slave cylinder; (3) adjust the clutch pedal as per the service manual.... (4) pray.
I've done some searching and that is the best I have come up with. I dread having to have this thing rebuilt but would appreciate anyone chiming in with recommendation. I'm located in Broward County Florida if any of those recommendations include the name of a good transmission guy (or girl)!
Thanks.
The transmission rebuild was around 80 or 85k miles, don't quote me. I picked up the car at just around 99k, and she now has just under 117k. Transmission-wise I did do a drain and fill using the updated Honda fluid. Definitely noticed much better shifting but still felt the shifting has never been as smooth as an Acura should be. When my interior was out for audio installation I played around with some minor adjusting of the excess play in the shift knob trying to get a bit more crisp response.
Over the last month I started to notice a grind when going into 3rd occasionally. I thought it was because I was wearing my work boots home an it seemed to be ok shifting when I was very careful to COMPLETELY press the clutch down all the way. Now that doesn't work anymore. I can still drive the car, but I have to ensure the RPM's go below about 2750-2500 before attempting to shift from 2nd to 3rd.... Note, it does not present a problem during downshifts.
I'm (now!) aware of the Acura Service Bulletin (08-018) I think off the top of my head, which cites a fault 3rd gear synchro or 3/4 shift collar. I've spoken with a transmission guy that has good reviews. He asked if I have tried adjusting the clutch. My plan of attack is (1) drain and fill using GM Syncromesh fluid; (2) bleed and check clutch fluid and also bleed the clutch slave cylinder; (3) adjust the clutch pedal as per the service manual.... (4) pray.
I've done some searching and that is the best I have come up with. I dread having to have this thing rebuilt but would appreciate anyone chiming in with recommendation. I'm located in Broward County Florida if any of those recommendations include the name of a good transmission guy (or girl)!
Thanks.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
checked out A&S by phone. May take it by there and Broward Transmission this week. However went to change my fluid out and saw some grease on the rear main seal. I previously thought it was spinout from the left cv boot I haven't changed yet. But if it is the seal only I guess I'll consider myself "lucky".
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Switched my fluid to Synchromesh two days ago, quite pleased overall! However, my gear, 3rd mostly, still grinds about 50% of the time. I do not have the money to rebuild the tranny, but figure I'll break out the charge card and use it for this special occasion, LOL.
1.) Assuming I go ahead and have the tranny pulled and fixed, I'm wondering if there is anything else anyone suggests I have done. I'm planning on replacing the rear main seal of course. I'm up in the air about replacing the clutch since it seems to have plenty of bite.
2.) My fluid change dilemma did result in a broken overfill bolt. A new right angle drill, multiple drill bits, and 2 broker screw extractors later has left my overfill check hole with part of a screw that wouldn't budge, and a screw extractor tip plugging the rest of it :/ I'm too afraid to drill and tap it out to 7mm or something for fear that pieces will go inside and not come out the drain hole. I've been checking and it doesn't appear to be leaking any of the new fluid. That being said, is there anything (not permanent like jb weld) you suggest I cover the hole with until the case is apart and the crap can be properly extracted or the hole redrilled?
Thanks.
My current overfill hole (those that have changed their fluid know there is very little room in front of the tranny to work with :/) Suggestions here welcomed too LOL
1.) Assuming I go ahead and have the tranny pulled and fixed, I'm wondering if there is anything else anyone suggests I have done. I'm planning on replacing the rear main seal of course. I'm up in the air about replacing the clutch since it seems to have plenty of bite.
2.) My fluid change dilemma did result in a broken overfill bolt. A new right angle drill, multiple drill bits, and 2 broker screw extractors later has left my overfill check hole with part of a screw that wouldn't budge, and a screw extractor tip plugging the rest of it :/ I'm too afraid to drill and tap it out to 7mm or something for fear that pieces will go inside and not come out the drain hole. I've been checking and it doesn't appear to be leaking any of the new fluid. That being said, is there anything (not permanent like jb weld) you suggest I cover the hole with until the case is apart and the crap can be properly extracted or the hole redrilled?
Thanks.
My current overfill hole (those that have changed their fluid know there is very little room in front of the tranny to work with :/) Suggestions here welcomed too LOL
#7
Instructor
lol I remember when I was driving my old '92 sentra 5 speed, before I got my CLS6, it had grinding occasionally on 2nd and 3rd gear which is expected for a car of its age. I drove it like that for about 2-3 years and its still being driven like that and it hasn't gotten any worse nor has it given me a problem. I use to drive the car every chance I got between school breaks driving at least 200 miles each way excluding the city driving when I got home. I don't really know how this applies to the CLS6, but I don't think it'll pose any serious threat immediately.
And if you're thinking about rebuilding a transmission...theres alot of risk you must take. Not every worn out piece will be replaced, usually only the parts that are on the brink of destruction. IMO, if the rebuild is going to cost you the price of a new/used transmission, then I'd rather go for a used CLS6 transmission with low mileage on it. I'm pretty sure some people on here may have replaced their CL or TL transmissions with ones from the 2005+ manual TLs.
you might as well change the clutch while your at it too
Hope it goes well for you.
And if you're thinking about rebuilding a transmission...theres alot of risk you must take. Not every worn out piece will be replaced, usually only the parts that are on the brink of destruction. IMO, if the rebuild is going to cost you the price of a new/used transmission, then I'd rather go for a used CLS6 transmission with low mileage on it. I'm pretty sure some people on here may have replaced their CL or TL transmissions with ones from the 2005+ manual TLs.
you might as well change the clutch while your at it too
Hope it goes well for you.
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#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks tr59210... Glad to hear that the problem didn't cause you an immediate problems, thanks! I'm 90% certain it has to do with the syncho as indicated in the TSB.
And yes I am planning to open it up and rebuild it. The tranny shop I went to advised I have a used tranny ready to put it. But, I refuse to pay 1100-1200 for a used transmission (non-rebuilt) and inherit someone else's problem.
I found another recommended shop I'll likely use and see what they find. I should mentioned it was rebuild (before I got the car) through an acura service center in Georgia. I think about 30k ago.... all the more reason I won't take a car, or put much faith in, an acura dealership unless I personally know the technician.
And yes I am planning to open it up and rebuild it. The tranny shop I went to advised I have a used tranny ready to put it. But, I refuse to pay 1100-1200 for a used transmission (non-rebuilt) and inherit someone else's problem.
I found another recommended shop I'll likely use and see what they find. I should mentioned it was rebuild (before I got the car) through an acura service center in Georgia. I think about 30k ago.... all the more reason I won't take a car, or put much faith in, an acura dealership unless I personally know the technician.
#9
try AT-216 Synthetic Transmission Fluid...some people say it works transmission smoother because it's design to reduce heat
change out your trans fluid to AT 216 and give it a try...dunno, but this might work for the auto trans shifitng problem known for acura/hondas
some mechanics swear product works cause transmission shifitng smoother after switching to AT-216
change out your trans fluid to AT 216 and give it a try...dunno, but this might work for the auto trans shifitng problem known for acura/hondas
some mechanics swear product works cause transmission shifitng smoother after switching to AT-216
Last edited by Accord316; 11-28-2010 at 12:51 AM.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks a lot guys I will try that. I love the Synchromesh fluid I have in now. I'm cautious to change it again right now because I have the overfill hole plugged and would like to get it retapped and the bolt pieces taken out first but can't figure out a safe way.
Haven't had a shop rebuild it, but going to use a shop on University Dr., that was recommended. Guy seemed fair and reasonable.
One other question..... does my grinding shifting into 3rd sound likely to be the synchro? The reason I ask is I have no problems when I'm in 4th and downshift into 3rd.... Usually when I upshift I've been skipping 3rd to save wear until I can afford the time and $ for a rebuild. Thanks
Haven't had a shop rebuild it, but going to use a shop on University Dr., that was recommended. Guy seemed fair and reasonable.
One other question..... does my grinding shifting into 3rd sound likely to be the synchro? The reason I ask is I have no problems when I'm in 4th and downshift into 3rd.... Usually when I upshift I've been skipping 3rd to save wear until I can afford the time and $ for a rebuild. Thanks
try AT-216 Synthetic Transmission Fluid...some people say it works transmission smoother because it's design to reduce heat
change out your trans fluid to AT 216 and give it a try...dunno, but this might work for the auto trans shifitng problem known for acura/hondas
some mechanics swear product works cause transmission shifitng smoother after switching to AT-216
change out your trans fluid to AT 216 and give it a try...dunno, but this might work for the auto trans shifitng problem known for acura/hondas
some mechanics swear product works cause transmission shifitng smoother after switching to AT-216
#12
Usually, grinding is because of a worn synchro, especially if it only happens to one gear. This is speaking in general, of all synchronized manual transmissions. Try double-clutching your upshifts into 3rd. If it doesn't grind while double-clutching, it's your 3rd-gear synchro that's bad, for certain.
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
Usually, grinding is because of a worn synchro, especially if it only happens to one gear. This is speaking in general, of all synchronized manual transmissions. Try double-clutching your upshifts into 3rd. If it doesn't grind while double-clutching, it's your 3rd-gear synchro that's bad, for certain.
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
And as an update, it was definitely the 3rd gear synchro and many other things Some of which most certainly was due to me continuing to drive it. I played, now time to pay... should be back by the end of the day
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
Been doing that the last 20k Money is available, plastic anyways... replaced everything that was bad with new oem parts. Also made sure to replace the main seal and that rear engine mount while it was accessible!
Well another day... this "should" be it lol. Debating how long I should drive it before modifying the CDD. I know I should also change to a stainless line.
Well another day... this "should" be it lol. Debating how long I should drive it before modifying the CDD. I know I should also change to a stainless line.
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
UPDATE: OMG nightmare is over and what a joy to have a transmission again and new motor mounts! I swear it is like rediscovering the CL all over again. It's never felt this good.
Still taking it easy and letting the synchros "bed-in". Probably going to tweak the pedal adjustment this weekend. Then put in the corsport bushings and P-spec shifter.
Still taking it easy and letting the synchros "bed-in". Probably going to tweak the pedal adjustment this weekend. Then put in the corsport bushings and P-spec shifter.
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