Lets talk brakes
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
From: the land where people drive like shit
Lets talk brakes
Ok, I am sick of these shitty brakes we have. I think just about everybody on this board has the vibration feel when braking.
I am seriously considering high performance brakes. But, what brakes will fit our cars with the stock rims? And are these brakes generally ABS? I know Astroboy tested the Brembos and had problems with them. And I know he also said that they will not fit stock rims.
Is there another High Performance braking system that will fit?
thanks, and sorry to start this thread up again, But I am just plain ready to throw down a few g's
------------------
NightHawk Black 2001 CL-S (AEM Intake, Yellow ION PIAA,35%Tint)
The Debadged Sleeper
And one hell of a great alignment job!
I am seriously considering high performance brakes. But, what brakes will fit our cars with the stock rims? And are these brakes generally ABS? I know Astroboy tested the Brembos and had problems with them. And I know he also said that they will not fit stock rims.
Is there another High Performance braking system that will fit?
thanks, and sorry to start this thread up again, But I am just plain ready to throw down a few g's
------------------
NightHawk Black 2001 CL-S (AEM Intake, Yellow ION PIAA,35%Tint)
The Debadged Sleeper
And one hell of a great alignment job!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
From: the land where people drive like shit
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by tw1112:
If you're really going to put major money into brakes, then get some news wheels then get the brembo's
</font>
If you're really going to put major money into brakes, then get some news wheels then get the brembo's
</font>
------------------
NightHawk Black 2001 CL-S (AEM Intake, Yellow ION PIAA,35%Tint)
The Debadged Sleeper
Suzuka Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,388
Likes: 1
From: Ninth Gate & So Cal
Sorry, but for now the Brembos are the "main" ticket to braking nirvana.
You can put in better brake lines to improve the feel.
You can put in better brake fluid (Motul or ATE) to increase the boiling temp (bubbles equals fade).
You can replace the stock rotors (front and rear) with cad plated OEM rotors that have been cad plated and slotted or cross-drilled.
(Cross-drilling is worthless without a lot of air flow to make up for the lost thermal mass -- get ready for air-ducts OR some very open/exposed rims (for plenty of air flow).
Finally, you can change the pads.
For now, I suspect that the following might be an incremental path for a brake upgrade:
1. Add the SS lines (just for the better feel -- no more, no less).
2. Try some Porterfield Carbon/Kevlar pads at the front and rear.
3. Try the slotted rotors (just a suggestion).
Or try 1 and 2, but:
Change wheels to wide enough wheels to handle Brembos -- SSR Comps in 17x8" +48 work quite well (Say goodbye to $1400)
Purchase Brembo kit for CL-S (say goodbye to $2000.00 in parts, not counting labor).
You now have killer brakes...
Future news:
AEM may come out with some brake parts, our brakes are 11.9" brakes, and they should be better at standing up to warping at non-insane speeds. Mine are NOT warped, but I do notice a touch of roughness. At least they don't squeak, all the time, like my Maxima pads did!
(I probably didn't tell you anything that you didn't suspect -- sorry. I would love a "cheap" fix too.)
------------------
Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI
[This message has been edited by EricL (edited 06-15-2001).]
You can put in better brake lines to improve the feel.
You can put in better brake fluid (Motul or ATE) to increase the boiling temp (bubbles equals fade).
You can replace the stock rotors (front and rear) with cad plated OEM rotors that have been cad plated and slotted or cross-drilled.
(Cross-drilling is worthless without a lot of air flow to make up for the lost thermal mass -- get ready for air-ducts OR some very open/exposed rims (for plenty of air flow).
Finally, you can change the pads.
For now, I suspect that the following might be an incremental path for a brake upgrade:
1. Add the SS lines (just for the better feel -- no more, no less).
2. Try some Porterfield Carbon/Kevlar pads at the front and rear.
3. Try the slotted rotors (just a suggestion).
Or try 1 and 2, but:
Change wheels to wide enough wheels to handle Brembos -- SSR Comps in 17x8" +48 work quite well (Say goodbye to $1400)
Purchase Brembo kit for CL-S (say goodbye to $2000.00 in parts, not counting labor).
You now have killer brakes...
Future news:
AEM may come out with some brake parts, our brakes are 11.9" brakes, and they should be better at standing up to warping at non-insane speeds. Mine are NOT warped, but I do notice a touch of roughness. At least they don't squeak, all the time, like my Maxima pads did!
(I probably didn't tell you anything that you didn't suspect -- sorry. I would love a "cheap" fix too.)
------------------
Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI
- Mud guards
- Wheel locks
- Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (50 lbs less than stock)
- Comptech headers & sways
- Silver AEM CAI
- 12 coats of Zaino magic
- Stainless Brake lines coming (Brembos?)
- V1 planned
[This message has been edited by EricL (edited 06-15-2001).]
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
From: the land where people drive like shit
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by EricL:
Sorry, but for now the Brembos are the "main" ticket to braking nirvana.
You can put in better brake lines to improve the feel.
You can put in better brake fluid (Motul or ATE) to increase the boiling temp (bubbles equals fade).
You can replace the stock rotors (front and rear) with cad plated OEM rotors that have been cad plated and slotted or cross-drilled.
(Cross-drilling is worthless without a lot of air flow to make up for the lost thermal mass -- get ready for air-ducts OR some very open/exposed rims (for plenty of air flow).
Finally, you can change the pads.
For now, I suspect that the following might be an incremental path for a brake upgrade:
1. Add the SS lines (just for the better feel -- no more, no less).
2. Try some Porterfield Carbon/Kevlar pads at the front and rear.
3. Try the slotted rotors (just a suggestion).
Or try 1 and 2, but:
Change wheels to wide enough wheels to handle Brembos -- SSR Comps in 17x8" +48 work quite well (Say goodbye to $1400)
Purchase Brembo kit for CL-S (say goodbye to $2000.00 in parts, not counting labor).
You now have killer brakes...
Future news:
AEM may come out with some brake parts, our brakes are 11.9" brakes, and they should be better at standing up to warping at non-insane speeds. Mine are NOT warped, but I do notice a touch of roughness. At least they don't squeak, all the time, like my Maxima pads did!
(I probably didn't tell you anything that you didn't suspect -- sorry. I would love a "cheap" fix too.)
</font>
Sorry, but for now the Brembos are the "main" ticket to braking nirvana.
You can put in better brake lines to improve the feel.
You can put in better brake fluid (Motul or ATE) to increase the boiling temp (bubbles equals fade).
You can replace the stock rotors (front and rear) with cad plated OEM rotors that have been cad plated and slotted or cross-drilled.
(Cross-drilling is worthless without a lot of air flow to make up for the lost thermal mass -- get ready for air-ducts OR some very open/exposed rims (for plenty of air flow).
Finally, you can change the pads.
For now, I suspect that the following might be an incremental path for a brake upgrade:
1. Add the SS lines (just for the better feel -- no more, no less).
2. Try some Porterfield Carbon/Kevlar pads at the front and rear.
3. Try the slotted rotors (just a suggestion).
Or try 1 and 2, but:
Change wheels to wide enough wheels to handle Brembos -- SSR Comps in 17x8" +48 work quite well (Say goodbye to $1400)
Purchase Brembo kit for CL-S (say goodbye to $2000.00 in parts, not counting labor).
You now have killer brakes...
Future news:
AEM may come out with some brake parts, our brakes are 11.9" brakes, and they should be better at standing up to warping at non-insane speeds. Mine are NOT warped, but I do notice a touch of roughness. At least they don't squeak, all the time, like my Maxima pads did!
(I probably didn't tell you anything that you didn't suspect -- sorry. I would love a "cheap" fix too.)
</font>
How much do you think the ss, rotors and pads would run me? and can they be purchased from Autocarparts?
------------------
NightHawk Black 2001 CL-S (AEM Intake, Yellow ION PIAA,35%Tint)
The Debadged Sleeper
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,658
Likes: 7
From: So. Cal
Yeah they offer all the parts that eric listed above.
Dang I was searching for this one page that I was reading a couple weeks back. It was an article on SS brake lines, and how they aren't all that safe. Something about if you install them wrong in anyway, they could come off while driving...well more like snap off. Also some other things....argh i know I read it
------------------
Tw1112
Dang I was searching for this one page that I was reading a couple weeks back. It was an article on SS brake lines, and how they aren't all that safe. Something about if you install them wrong in anyway, they could come off while driving...well more like snap off. Also some other things....argh i know I read it
------------------
Tw1112
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,658
Likes: 7
From: So. Cal
Here is something to the effects of what I read.
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Performance/brakelines.htm
------------------
Tw1112
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Performance/brakelines.htm
------------------
Tw1112
Trending Topics
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,658
Likes: 7
From: So. Cal
This is something from a FAQ:
------------------
Tw1112
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Stainless brake lines are really a racing thing. They provide hardly any advantage for street use. They can be a liability, though. Consider them high maintenance and keep a close eye on them. Check for leaks, rubbing, wear, cracks, deformation, etc. They are part of the second most important safety feature of your car. (Steering #1 in my book.) Don't let "upgraded" lines cause problems for you.
</font>
Tw1112
Instructor
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: OC n SoCal
I warped my rotors and replaced them with powerstop cross drilled (got a deal on them) and they seem to work a lot better....Unfortunately pads where not available when I did it.
Eric, are the pads aftermarket or OEM replacements
------------------
'01 silver/black
NAVI
eibach springs
35% tint all around
some lighting upgrades!
Powerstop x-drilled rotors/ red calipers
AEM silver CAI
more to come slowly, waiting for $$$ for 1.8KW stereo
DOM 7/00
Eric, are the pads aftermarket or OEM replacements
------------------
'01 silver/black
NAVI
eibach springs
35% tint all around
some lighting upgrades!
Powerstop x-drilled rotors/ red calipers
AEM silver CAI
more to come slowly, waiting for $$$ for 1.8KW stereo
DOM 7/00
Instructor
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: OC n SoCal
Jayru, I would suggest replacing the rotors nad the brake fluid first....specially if you are a "spirited driver".
------------------
'01 silver/black
NAVI
eibach springs
35% tint all around
some lighting upgrades!
Powerstop x-drilled rotors/ red calipers
AEM silver CAI
more to come slowly, waiting for $$$ for 1.8KW stereo
DOM 7/00
------------------
'01 silver/black
NAVI
eibach springs
35% tint all around
some lighting upgrades!
Powerstop x-drilled rotors/ red calipers
AEM silver CAI
more to come slowly, waiting for $$$ for 1.8KW stereo
DOM 7/00
Suzuka Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,388
Likes: 1
From: Ninth Gate & So Cal
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by SLVRTSUNAMI:
I warped my rotors and replaced them with powerstop cross drilled (got a deal on them) and they seem to work a lot better....Unfortunately pads where not available when I did it.
Eric, are the pads aftermarket or OEM replacements
</font>
I warped my rotors and replaced them with powerstop cross drilled (got a deal on them) and they seem to work a lot better....Unfortunately pads where not available when I did it.
Eric, are the pads aftermarket or OEM replacements
</font>
Here is the link:
http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/
(949)-548-4470
1767 Placentia Ave.
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
Front and Rear (Carbon/Kevlar) #s are AP-787 and AP-365. The total is around $220 including shipping.
I checked out a ride of a member with the SS lines, slotted cad plated rotors, Motol fluid, and the pads listed above.
The brake feel was great -- I just didn't have a chance to run the car to 100 MPH four or five times (just kidding).
They are a "Street Compound." The company also makes full-race, etc.
What is the story on the "POWERSTOP" rotors? Are these NOT just the OEM "retreads" with some drilling, chamfering, heat-treating, and final plating?
------------------
Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI
- Mud guards
- Wheel locks
- Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (50 lbs less than stock)
- Comptech headers & sways
- Silver AEM CAI
- 12 coats of Zaino magic
- Stainless Brake lines coming (Brembos?)
- V1 planned
Instructor
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: OC n SoCal
no they are not...to the best of my knowledge they are new...the sheet does not reccomend them for racing though just strange I guess....had them on my civic for a long time and they worked great (had some metal matrix pads with them I think).
------------------
'01 silver/black
NAVI
eibach springs
35% tint all around
some lighting upgrades!
Powerstop x-drilled rotors/ red calipers
AEM silver CAI
more to come slowly, waiting for $$$ for 1.8KW stereo
DOM 7/00
------------------
'01 silver/black
NAVI
eibach springs
35% tint all around
some lighting upgrades!
Powerstop x-drilled rotors/ red calipers
AEM silver CAI
more to come slowly, waiting for $$$ for 1.8KW stereo
DOM 7/00
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,658
Likes: 7
From: So. Cal
Did you get powerstop's for your civic or for your CL? I ask because I didnt know they even offered it for the new cl's. If they do, I hear good things about powerstops...and I agree, to my knowledge they have their own rotors. Not an upgraded oem rotor.
I think most powerstops will run something like 200 for a pair?? I might be really off.
------------------
Tw1112
I think most powerstops will run something like 200 for a pair?? I might be really off.
------------------
Tw1112
Suzuka Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,388
Likes: 1
From: Ninth Gate & So Cal
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by SLVRTSUNAMI:
no they are not...to the best of my knowledge they are new...the sheet does not reccomend them for racing though just strange I guess....had them on my civic for a long time and they worked great (had some metal matrix pads with them I think).
</font>
no they are not...to the best of my knowledge they are new...the sheet does not reccomend them for racing though just strange I guess....had them on my civic for a long time and they worked great (had some metal matrix pads with them I think).
</font>
TIA
------------------
Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI
- Mud guards
- Wheel locks
- Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (50 lbs less than stock)
- Comptech headers & sways
- Silver AEM CAI
- 12 coats of Zaino magic
- Stainless Brake lines coming (Brembos?)
- V1 planned
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