Guys they have a garage clearance sale and I just picked up a brand new set of Brembos in black for $1595 no tax no shipping. What the hell is going on I got the Comptech headers the Ice-Box and Brembo brakes all in one week but got a one in a lifetime deal on all. Check it out they got other stuff also

also got the Titanium bar that was a deal but hey to everybody else its a waste of money

nice deal... I will check it but no money to spend...

The CLS part is not on sale...

Tell me about it I didn't want to do it but they only had one set left so I couldn't pass it up cause it would of been gone. They said they just put it up 20 minutes before I called and I went on their site to check the Dyno for the Ice-box. Damn Im gonna have to shuffle around some funds but I always wanted this I would of prefferred the 13 inch but for a savings of $700 Ill settle for the 12.4.

Does anybody have a pic of Kevin M. car with the Brembos and the SSR Comptetions in 17" . I know he has the 13" but I would really like to save it on my computer. Aztecrol lets see if you're truly the man

The server that had them has been changed. I WILL get them for you. Just give me till the end of the weekend!!!

do they have the 13" on sale?

send me a link for the 12.4" deal please.

Thanks.

Mantis Im sorry but I bought the only pair they were selling at that price so I jumped on it. They advertised it 20 minutes before I went online to see the dyno for the Ice-Box when I ran into it. They had them advertised in the Accord section as well as in the TL section so I called them. They assured me that they will fit the CL-S and the 13" are not on sale and still cost $2300.

They only have crap left lucky bastard!!!

Ask and you shall receive...

Real nice however... the holes are bit useless for the street use. if Ihad a choice I would select solid surfaces with no holes.

Useless

They don't make slotted rotors for these 12.4/13.x kits, and they do a nice job on the chamfering...

The holes work just fine (as do slots, dimples, so on) for pad outgassing issues.

The holes are also used to lighten the rotors and the 13" version is lighter than stock (great for reducing rotational inertia). The 12.x version is even lighter still. Those holes along with the aluminum hat are there to help with thermal management and weight reduction.

EricL do you think they would make my car even quicker I know its is just small amount of weight but it is unsprung weight. Thanks you were the one who convinced me to get the SSR comps.

One question is the aluminum hat the center piece in the middle of the rotors. I noticed that the rotors look like two pieces instead of one solid like stock. I don't know why but I quess Brembo knows what there doing and I have seen Porcshes come stock with them same design.


oh peiginglong good looking out I saved it to my computer already

There are for the 13" kit. But should give you an idea.

Spec sheet #1: http://hp.brembo.com/pdf/Wheel_Clearance.pdf

Tech manual #2: http://hp.brembo.com/pdf/GranTurismo-V1.pdf

Two pieces work better. You get very little leverage on the inside of rotating disk. If it isn't part of the swept area, why not use a material that conducts heat better (Aluminum) and a material that is lighter (Aluminum).

So, you can look at #2 and there are pics. It is composed of aluminum (center) and an vented iron rotor on the outside.

IMAGE (silver and black calipers):




Note 328mm is 13.x inches:

"Front system with two-piece 328 X 28mm cross-drilled directionally vented discs with anti-corrosive cadmium plating. Mounts "floating" style to vehicle specific billet aluminum bell. Brembo engineered and machined two-piece cast aluminum caliper. Fitted with four sequentially sized aluminum pistons, dusts seals and anti-rattle clip. Also included, complete axel set of high performance pads and DOT/TÜV approved stainless steel brake lines. Aircraft quality mounting brackets and hardware complete this system. All our high performance brake systems are ABS compatible and retain the stock master cylinder."

Lou,
Congrats! Although I really think you could've spend your money more wisely. For street use these rotors won't be any better and now you have the chance of them warping. Either way, congrats they'll look hot!

I spoke with Kevin M at length and he said he couldn't get the 13" kit to fade on the street.

When he went to the track, he had to put ducts in through the fender liner to the front to bring in ram air (forced air cooling). The dust shields were modified to accept the metal duct hose. At that point the car was basically fade-free on the track (all day long driving on R rated rubber).

You have to realize that the brakes have a very fine piston design that helps clamp the down nicely. If you make more than a few stops, at speed, your going to be better off. The car is under braked for continuous mountain driving. If you have a VSA, the brakes are being worked and there is a temp sensor to turn the system off if the fluid gets too hot.

However, until you fade, a car with ABS will get more stopping power with better tires and lighter wheels. Once the brakes start to get hot: on an above-100-MPH stop, you can see stopping distances change as the result of high-speed fade (extra energy from the higher speed stop [V^2 again]).

All this has been beaten to death in SCC and a million and one articles. IMO, if you want to be able to stop from high speed and do it a few times, the stock brakes are lacking.

I'll be happy to just toss in some slotted/dimpled rotors at some point with Porterfields, but, then again, I'm not "enchanted" about having my car displayed on page one of the Metro section with it sitting at the bottom of someone's canyon-side swimming pool with bubbles wafting up

Thanks EricL like always right on the money....I'll read the whole manual before they even arrive. Comptech did specify the installation process will take 4 hours I don't know if they were high balling on the time but looking at the manual looks pretty difficult. Would you happen to know if the CL-S has brake pad electronic sensors cause the system has a connector for it already.

Zapata thanks for the compliments and the advise. My car already with 19K miles on it feel that the stock fronts are almost due so instead of buying crossdrilled rotors and high performance pads I bought the kit. I have only heard the upmost recommendations on the Brembos and I thought that since they are crosdrilled and run at cooler temps. they would be less submissive to warping. I have never heard of them warping and I thought I did my homework thanks for the heads-up will look even closer.


Not only that but Brembos have been installed on many high performance vehicles. Look for example at the(350 Z and G35) new Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution with 271 HP and the car weighs(3250) less than our CL-S and still has bigger Brembos than 12.6". In my opinion the CL-S with Headers & Intake and definetly with SC should have adequate braking. I never knew how bad our cars brake till I got the SSR Comps. with the Michelin Pilot Sports. I have gone from 80-90 MPH and try to brake to make the exit and the car would not stop. I don't drive like a nut but making my car do 90-100 MPH is pretty easy and all you need is a grandmother with slow reaction and bad vision throw her 1990 Cadillac right in your lane with no braking distance and see what I mean.

High performance cars are all coming stock with Brembo's. The Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution




Bare witness to this car 17x8 Enkie aluminum allow lightweight wheels with 235/45 ZR17 93 W. Tubular front strut bar optional steel one is standard. Brembos ventilated 4 pistons 12.6 and Brembos 2 pistons 11.8 in rear. The car weighs 3260 and has 60/40 weight distribution and has 271HP and 273 lbs. of torque / 0-60 in 5 sec. Car cost about $30 K and yes this car will be driven in the streets for street applications. Surely this car has the potential to outperform the CL-S but people are mostly interested in speed without concern on how to stop it. This car has just about everything my car has but my car is luxury and is heavier.

lou - didn't see anyplace on the Comptech website that talked about "specials" ... where these just imbedded in the product area with no other notification? please advise. tks

Click on the procucts for the CL and you know where it lists the products like the exhaust, intakes, well at the bottom it stays garage sale and click in. Last I checked they still have other Brembos for sale but not for the CL-S

On the main page roll the mouse over "whats new", should have a menu with a "spring cleaning garage sale" bar.

Zapata I was right by having Brembos you run less of a risk of warping your rotors.


Why use a two-piece "floating" disc assembly?

There are several reasons that a two-piece floating disc assembly is of benefit. First, by using an aluminum bell for the hub section of the disc saves a great deal of weight. Since this is both rotating and unsprung, it benefits the acceleration, braking, and handling of the vehicle. Secondly, it is better able to handle the large temperature changes that a brake disc experiences. During severe use, temperature variances become present in a one-piece disc and generally cause warping of the disc. This not only results in vibration of the vehicle, and pulsing of the brake pedal, but also pushes the pistons farther away from the disc. In a two-piece floating disc assembly, the iron disc heats up more uniformly, and the controlled float which is present allows for the differential expansion of the very hot brake disc, and the relatively cool aluminum bell. This allows the disc to be used under severe conditions without having a detrimental effect.

EricL,
Agreed, stock brake setup is lacking in the worst way but i'm not sure brembo's are worth the fundage for daily use. Unless of course your daily use requires repeated HARD stops and canyon driving then by all means. Track driving and repeated hard stops from highway speeds will cause major heat issues. However, that can be correctly quite easily with some nice performance brake pads. For daily use under standard driving conditions i don't know how worth while the $1500 expenditure will be in the end. $1500 will get you plenty of endless zeal brake pads

I think to a certain extent they are. Our cars are 3500lbs and when you brake, you want to know that you will brake and not end up rear ending someone. Don't know about you, but I've had a few close calls already...you never know.

What kind of improvements can I expect?

1. Shorter stopping distances. Sometimes up to 20-30% shorter depending on the application and road conditions. The faster you are traveling the greater the improvement.
2. Repeatability. Most cars can stop OK once or twice. Each additional stop gets longer and longer as the fluid heats up. Brembo brakes give you remarkably shorter stops time after time.
3. Reduce or eliminate brake fade. The brake system on your car is just that, a complete system. Each component is matched for optimum performance. Brembo brakes control the heat better which means no brake fade whether you are towing a heavy load, coming down a steep mountain, or blasting from turn to turn on a race track.
4. Better control and modulation. You'll have more feel through the pedal and more progressive brake operation, you can brake harder and still maintain control.

Just remember that you NEED TO break the brakes in NO HARD STOPPING for the first hundred miles or so!!!!!

1- Shorter stoping distances because of your brake pads not because of your rotors. A rotor that's functioning correctly has nothing to do with stoping distance.

2- Stoping from high speeds you'll notice the brakes won't go mushy. But again only after repeated attempts.

No. In a FWD the majority of your braking takes place in the front wheels. There is absolutely NO need for you to change the rotors on the back. Aside from asthetics you'll be pissing money away. As far as balance goes. Just make sure that you have the same brake pads on all four brakes. If you had a RWD car it'd be completely different story as you're front and rear brakes would be working VERY hard at stoping the car. The rears need to stop wheel movement and keep from locking up and your fronts need to slow forward momentum.

Thanks bro I knew I can count on you Ive been wracking my brain trying to fiqure this out. I just didn't want any uneven brake wear.

1- Lou agreed lighter rotors will help. But the majority of the difference will be because of the pads. Force is one thing but force applied to surface that doesn't grip won't do much to stop movement. The problem with OEM braking system isn't the lack of force in the piston. Of course every little bit helps. But i just want to be realistic with you

2- Right, i agree with the cooling issue. It's a system of components

[QUOTE]Originally posted by lou

Quote:
Originally posted by Zapata
Just remember that you NEED TO break the brakes in NO HARD STOPPING for the first hundred miles or so!!!!!

1- Shorter stoping distances because of your brake pads not because of your rotors. A rotor that's functioning correctly has nothing to do with stoping distance.


Its a combination because going to a lightweight rotor its easier to stop than a heavier rotor just like lightweight wheels (unsprung weight). Also 4 Piston calipers have a better bite than 2 piston with the better bigger pads so I quess you can say its everything. Also a cooler rotor will not fade on you while a stock rotor without the cooling (crosdrilling and bigger vanes)will.


2- Stoping from high speeds you'll notice the brakes won't go mushy. But again only after repeated attempts.


Well you can correct the mushy by just installing stainless steel lines but the brakes will still fade when hot the same way with out the lines. Basically you can get better braking by upgrading your rotors and pads with steel lines which will help much. The only advantage the Brembos would have then is slightly bigger 12.4 to 11.8 stock which helps the cooling process and the 4 piston setup with actual bigger pistons which require bigger pads which you know it reduce heat.

part of the reason i got ss-brake lines was to help focus energy into braking for those "just in case" situations...compliment them with performance pads, and u will notice a dramatic difference IMO that's worthy of street use...i personally agree with Zapata in that a $1,500 investment in a braking system for street use only is quite expensive...as an alternative, u could configure ss-lines, upgraded pads, and something like Casper's Euro combo slotted/cross-drilled rotors for roughly half the cost, BUT that idea is a throw-together combo of products, while the Brembo kit is a complete package

Scooter and Zapata the main reason you upgrade your brakes to lets say Brembos is because of heat. Stainless steel lines and pads help with the brake torque and thats it crossdrilled rotors help in reducing heat but by how much. In order to build a rotor that would dissipate heat as well as Brembos would require engineering and a lot of $$$$.
If you can't see how Brembos considerably help in braking is like saying lightweight wheels don't help either. Not only is the Brembo rotor bigger but its much lighter because aluminum is in the middle of the rotor intead of solid iron like stock rotors. Not only that but your going to a larger pad which increases the surface area used on the bigger rotor to create the friction to stop the rotor. Then your distributing the same force used on 2 pistons equally to 4 pistons helping the pad to uniformly press against the rotor and if you had 6 pistons it is even better. So you see Brembos are much more than a fancy name and the only people that say Brembos are not worth the money are people who never had them. If you can honestly go from having Brembos on your car to driving a car with upgraded pads and say you couldn't tell the difference.
Why does everybody keep saying Brembos are for track use. The Gran turismo are street application brakes that can be used on the track. Brembo does offer track and track only brakes that can not be used on the streets. By saying that brembos are for track is like saying Comptech headers are for track use because you don't need them on day to day driven right unless your dragging and suspension upgrades that is only for the track because you don't need that for day to day driven unless you want to hit a turn 90 degrees. should I go on. and by the way these are $2300 brakes that I purchased at $1500 aren't Comptech headers like $1200 on their website.

All what I do next time is buy from tirerack a couple of brembo blank rotors and 2 set of front pads ( either EBC green stuff or some Hawk's). with a new brake fluid purge and refill, I am all set!

brembo rotors are better than stock if crosdrilled if not then same. upgraded pads help with the intial braking but add more stopping power generates more heat and inevitably fading more and more as the heat increases.

the ultimate setup not only increases the stopping power like the upgraded pads but can efficiently dissipate the added heat accordingly from the added stopping power. If you increase the stopping power and take no other measure to reduce the heat you will have better braking till they heat up and then fade and who know when that will be hopefully not when you need your brakes the most

Lou:

RE: Brembo and brake balance, wheels, etc.

The Brembo people are not fools and Kevin was nice enough to let me chew his ear off about the brakes. Brembo designs the kits to work WITH the stock rear brakes. IMO, at some point, you will want to run with some slotted rotors with some Porterfield R4S (or other hot pads) in THE REAR. There is a point where the rears will get too hot (with repeated high speed stops), and you may or may not ever reach that point depending on your goals. I will be putting slotted rotors in the front AND REAR when the factory brakes need work. IMO, slots + Porterfields (R4S) + SS brake lines would do... (I'm sure there are other combos too...) The addition or change in the rears will alter the friction coefficient, but the main reason is to insure that if you press the car with the increased fade resistance of the front, you don't overwhelm the rears.

RE: Make sure you get a great bleed.

Good brakes are worthless with old fluid with water in it… You might want to consider Motul or ATE DOT 4 if you are going full out on this; and IMO, better to have fresh factory DOT 3 than old DOT 4.


RE: Brembo figures out the piston area and hydraulic pressure issues:

The Brembos’ brake balance should be FINE (even with the wheels and tires you are currently using). It is possible to destroy the brake balance with "untried"/"untested"/"unknown" brakes (front or rear) with very big or very small pistons (change in piston area) that would change the pressure balance between front and rear in a very unhealthy way. The brake feel could also be completely trashed if the piston sizing wasn't a correct match for the master cylinder (this assumes that someone is clueless or trying to modify or build a new set of brakes for the car using an existing set of calipers made for a completely different car.
If you had grabbed the kit from some alien car, you'd want to sort this out; however, this is not the case.

RE: Weight transfer, etc, etc -- Kevin already did it and seemed ok

Kevin M was running two different set of wheels and tires: SSR Comps 17x8" with Victoracer V700s (225/45-17) [R-rubber] and another set for the street use (I'm pretty sure they were very good 235/45-17 max/ultra-high performance tires with some OZ or other light weight forged wheels). So, he was running tires/wheels that would be MORE SIMILAR than different to what you're running.

It’s not so much the FWD, but rather the front-to-rear weight distribution. Check out the brakes on a 911 and check out the braking. That weight in the rear makes for better front-to-rear brake loading during braking. THE CLS has 62-63% of the weight in the front. Look at FWDs; most of them have 60+% of the weight on the front wheels for improved forward traction.


RE: Zapata mentioned a very important point that gets ignored.

Call Brembo if you're even remotely confused about the "bedding-in" process. You really want to "season" the rotors and pads to get any "volatiles" out of the pads and each manufacturer has a specific process for "bedding in" the pads. It makes a big difference in how they perform through their lifetime.


RE: "Track use"

Look, most people don't hit 100-mph and whack the brakes really hard over-and-over. On high performance cars -- Porsche, etc -- they are made so an enthusiast can go straight to the track without driving into a wall after two or three laps (fade is a bitch). Take the CLS to the road course -- with its stock brakes -- and you'll be lucky to go around more that 2 or 3 times before the brakes go away. I know two people that completely ran out of brakes at the track. They couldn't sustain good speed (brakes are just as important as good power-to-weight). The stock brakes were hopelessly warped and needed front AND rear replacements!!!!

So, if you ever in need of fleeing a nuclear attack, or maniacs, you can rest assured that your brakes should keep working....



RE: "The cool factor"

Expensive == yes.

Look nice == yes.


RE: 13" brake kit annoyances? Does this impact the 12.x?

You might want to ask Brembo if the 12.4s fit the spare in the rear. I got kind of hot on the idea of putting the 13s in -- at one point -- and was told the space saver would not work (True or not? I don't know, but this is what I was told...)

You might want to check and see if you need to have a "backup" for any flat tires issues...

YMMV

EricL just take one of the tires from the rear and put spare on the rear :thinking:

I am sorta glad I only got the 12.4 cause I didn't want any imbalance and also the weight savings. My Comps at 14 lbs. even if I save 2 pounds with these rotors would only benefit my setup Also I will change the fluid when I change to the brembo I think Comptech recommends a Motul product I have to check. Overall Im very excited to see how they'll improve my acceleration throught the twisties as much as the braking improvements.

Found some pics of these sick ass Brembos
This M3 has the 14" in the front and 12.9 Brembos in the rear WTF

Yes, could do... I suppose an inducement would get the AAA guy to do some swapping.

There was also the "use the stock wheels + stock tires for Sierra winter runs..." (13 + stock == no good). (Cables are still a wank tho...)

Motul 600 – yes.

Here's the cool part on the ATE:

"ATE Super Blue and Super Gold Racing Brake Fluids - a high performance brake fluid for coping with the extreme demands of racing, this fluid also works well on the street. Due to its outstanding wet boiling point, it has high safety reserves. Better than DOT4/DOT3, SAEJ1703 and ISO 4925 fluids. Suitable for all brake and clutch systems rated for DOT brake fluids. Dry boiling point: 530 degrees F, wet boiling point: 392 degrees F. Comes in metal cans that can be tightly stored for up to 2 years. Available in two colors, both with identical properties. Use one of each color when flushing the system. Color change lets you know when you've got the old fluid out. "

Yes, I'm on the way to for some therapy for staring at wheels and brakes...

Wrap it up to go ... please!

Looking to do this within 2 weeks so if you don't mind Ill pm you if I run into any unexpected obstacles.

So what size wheel would you need to fit the 12.4 kit? I don't keep my 18's on in the winter......

Look at page 1 they have a picture of a 13.1 Brembo in a 17" SSR Comps. that me and EricL both have. So the Brembos do fit with 17" but its not only diameter of wheel its the design of the rim more so.

Brembo has a template, and at one point, Tire Rack "bragged" about being able to inform customers what rims would work with various Brembo kits (this was in an older SCC issue). However, I called Tire Rack one day to "check on this", and they were clueless (Bad day? I don't know )

The 13-inch kit WILL NOT fit in a number of 17" wheels due to the clearance between the spokes and the caliper.

The stock OEM wheels will not accept the 13-inch kit. I was told this was due to the side clearance. (There was someone who thought the thick cast flange was also a problem )

If you look at some cars, they have 13" brakes in pretty small wheels - it depends...