JENS: Engine Light on :(
10-31-2003, 12:57 PM
#41
Senior Moderator
Originally posted by Jens H.
If your oil level is too low the VTEC gear may fail to work setting a fault code .WHy is it so low??????
Jens
If your oil level is too low the VTEC gear may fail to work setting a fault code .WHy is it so low??????
Jens
10-31-2003, 12:58 PM
#42
Senior Moderator
Originally posted by allmotor_2000
You mentioned low oil before... this motor should not burn more than 1/2 quart every 5K miles. I suggest you do a leakdown test if you could.
You mentioned low oil before... this motor should not burn more than 1/2 quart every 5K miles. I suggest you do a leakdown test if you could.
?...BTW im about a quart every 5K,and a few minutes after adding oil the light went out...
10-31-2003, 03:31 PM
#43
Zapata refill the coolant and run the engine see if you can spot a leak .If it is indeed leaking than have the local guys look it over .I really do appreciate the loyalty but don't blow the car up .Scrib is completely correct on this .
Jens
Jens
10-31-2003, 03:40 PM
#44
TypeR
Leakdown test .Essentially what this means is as follows .The engine is ratated by hand so that piston number one is at TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke (valvess closed) .The spark plug is removed and high pressure air is fed into the cylinder using the same hose that would be used for a compression test .However a leakdown tester is attached to the hose instead of the pressure gauge .The leakdown tester has the high pressure hose from the aircompressor attached to it .After high pressure air is admitted to the cylinder the leak down tester gives a readin via a gauge on it's face as to how much air is leaking out of the combustion chamber .It is indicated in percents .10 percent is about the limit anything more and there are issues to be dealt with .
To give a raw idea of what part of the cylinder is having compressin loss the following is done .
A cigarette light or better yet a lit cigarette is held by the tailpipe .if air escaping past the exhaust valves blows the smoke from the cigarette we know the exhaust valves are having sealing issues .Next the intake butterfly is exposed (throtle body) ,the same test is done again with a lit cigarette .If the smoke moves we know we have potential intake valve problems .Next the oil cap is removed and you now must listen to the way the interior of the engine sounds .It sounds crazy but usually if the rings are shot you can hear the air rushing out of the oil filler hole .You can also use the cigarette trick here .if the smoke moves you know the rings are an issue .
Each cylinder must be tested this way however if you find one that is bad and you can tell where the problem most likely lies just go ahead and start knocking the engine apart .
This no doubt sounds like a captain caveman approach to auto repair but trust me it works .
Jens
Leakdown test .Essentially what this means is as follows .The engine is ratated by hand so that piston number one is at TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke (valvess closed) .The spark plug is removed and high pressure air is fed into the cylinder using the same hose that would be used for a compression test .However a leakdown tester is attached to the hose instead of the pressure gauge .The leakdown tester has the high pressure hose from the aircompressor attached to it .After high pressure air is admitted to the cylinder the leak down tester gives a readin via a gauge on it's face as to how much air is leaking out of the combustion chamber .It is indicated in percents .10 percent is about the limit anything more and there are issues to be dealt with .
To give a raw idea of what part of the cylinder is having compressin loss the following is done .
A cigarette light or better yet a lit cigarette is held by the tailpipe .if air escaping past the exhaust valves blows the smoke from the cigarette we know the exhaust valves are having sealing issues .Next the intake butterfly is exposed (throtle body) ,the same test is done again with a lit cigarette .If the smoke moves we know we have potential intake valve problems .Next the oil cap is removed and you now must listen to the way the interior of the engine sounds .It sounds crazy but usually if the rings are shot you can hear the air rushing out of the oil filler hole .You can also use the cigarette trick here .if the smoke moves you know the rings are an issue .
Each cylinder must be tested this way however if you find one that is bad and you can tell where the problem most likely lies just go ahead and start knocking the engine apart .
This no doubt sounds like a captain caveman approach to auto repair but trust me it works .
Jens
10-31-2003, 03:52 PM
#46
Safety Car
Originally posted by Jens H.
TypeR
Leakdown test .Essentially what this means is as follows .The engine is ratated by hand so that piston number one is at TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke (valvess closed) .The spark plug is removed and high pressure air is fed into the cylinder using the same hose that would be used for a compression test .However a leakdown tester is attached to the hose instead of the pressure gauge .The leakdown tester has the high pressure hose from the aircompressor attached to it .After high pressure air is admitted to the cylinder the leak down tester gives a readin via a gauge on it's face as to how much air is leaking out of the combustion chamber .It is indicated in percents .10 percent is about the limit anything more and there are issues to be dealt with .
To give a raw idea of what part of the cylinder is having compressin loss the following is done .
A cigarette light or better yet a lit cigarette is held by the tailpipe .if air escaping past the exhaust valves blows the smoke from the cigarette we know the exhaust valves are having sealing issues .Next the intake butterfly is exposed (throtle body) ,the same test is done again with a lit cigarette .If the smoke moves we know we have potential intake valve problems .Next the oil cap is removed and you now must listen to the way the interior of the engine sounds .It sounds crazy but usually if the rings are shot you can hear the air rushing out of the oil filler hole .You can also use the cigarette trick here .if the smoke moves you know the rings are an issue .
Each cylinder must be tested this way however if you find one that is bad and you can tell where the problem most likely lies just go ahead and start knocking the engine apart .
This no doubt sounds like a captain caveman approach to auto repair but trust me it works .
Jens
TypeR
Leakdown test .Essentially what this means is as follows .The engine is ratated by hand so that piston number one is at TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke (valvess closed) .The spark plug is removed and high pressure air is fed into the cylinder using the same hose that would be used for a compression test .However a leakdown tester is attached to the hose instead of the pressure gauge .The leakdown tester has the high pressure hose from the aircompressor attached to it .After high pressure air is admitted to the cylinder the leak down tester gives a readin via a gauge on it's face as to how much air is leaking out of the combustion chamber .It is indicated in percents .10 percent is about the limit anything more and there are issues to be dealt with .
To give a raw idea of what part of the cylinder is having compressin loss the following is done .
A cigarette light or better yet a lit cigarette is held by the tailpipe .if air escaping past the exhaust valves blows the smoke from the cigarette we know the exhaust valves are having sealing issues .Next the intake butterfly is exposed (throtle body) ,the same test is done again with a lit cigarette .If the smoke moves we know we have potential intake valve problems .Next the oil cap is removed and you now must listen to the way the interior of the engine sounds .It sounds crazy but usually if the rings are shot you can hear the air rushing out of the oil filler hole .You can also use the cigarette trick here .if the smoke moves you know the rings are an issue .
Each cylinder must be tested this way however if you find one that is bad and you can tell where the problem most likely lies just go ahead and start knocking the engine apart .
This no doubt sounds like a captain caveman approach to auto repair but trust me it works .
Jens
10-31-2003, 03:58 PM
#47
Cost Drivers!!!!
Thread Starter
jens,
thanks for all the help. I've made the appointment for tomorrow morning. I'll fill it up and see how it goes. Hopefully, won't have any issues. I agree, you guys are great but after driving less than 5 miles and watching the temp needle rise and fall, i don' think a 2 hour trip would be too smart.
thanks for all the help. I've made the appointment for tomorrow morning. I'll fill it up and see how it goes. Hopefully, won't have any issues. I agree, you guys are great but after driving less than 5 miles and watching the temp needle rise and fall, i don' think a 2 hour trip would be too smart.
10-31-2003, 04:11 PM
#48
Rod knock ,oh yeah now I remember .Listen for the noise it will be a medium knock type sound about the same as a hammer striking a table top .Now one at a time (not electrocuting yourself in the process) disconnect one spark plug wire at a time (or coil pack) .See if the noise lessens ,when it does you found the offending conrod .Main bearing noise is about the same test by the way .
Jens
Jens
10-31-2003, 09:09 PM
#52
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Zapata, I had a similar problem of coolant consumption and noticed that coolant was spattering around the transmision area. This all happened after I installed my supercharger. My reservoir kept going empty also. I finally decided to change the hose clamps on the radiator hose, this solved my coolant lose and heating system problem, might be worht telling the techs. The stock clamps are good until you've spread them a couple of times. I've noticed that the coolant tends to leak back along the hose, then drips off at the lowest point onto the motor mout area.
11-01-2003, 04:31 AM
#53
Cost Drivers!!!!
Thread Starter
chemmech,
hmmmmm, welp its possible that something wasn't re-connected correctly when the ice box was installed but it has been quite sometime since that was done. Did your leak issue happen right away? Other than the coolant line to the ice box i really haven't touched anything in the engine compartment. Welp, hopefully i'll have an answer soon. thanks!!
hmmmmm, welp its possible that something wasn't re-connected correctly when the ice box was installed but it has been quite sometime since that was done. Did your leak issue happen right away? Other than the coolant line to the ice box i really haven't touched anything in the engine compartment. Welp, hopefully i'll have an answer soon. thanks!!
11-01-2003, 05:22 AM
#54
an adult perspective
yeah, that was over 6 months ago ... unless something has come off or otherwise been tampered with, you'd think it would've appeared before now if it was install related
11-01-2003, 07:06 AM
#55
Cost Drivers!!!!
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Y2K3CL-S
yeah, that was over 6 months ago ... unless something has come off or otherwise been tampered with, you'd think it would've appeared before now if it was install related
yeah, that was over 6 months ago ... unless something has come off or otherwise been tampered with, you'd think it would've appeared before now if it was install related
yea exactly. Nope, the PA/NJ crew is top notch!!
Complete faith anyway, i dropped the car off and they gave me a 5AT white TSX. I'll post my impressions in a few days. Might not get the car back till tuesday.
11-01-2003, 07:44 AM
#56
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I think the only reason why my hose was not being secured by the clamp was that the clamp had worn out or lost its tension, due to opening and closing it to get the new hose on. To be honest with you, I don't think those calmps are very good, I replaced them with the traditional screwdriver tightened type. Also, over time, maybe the heat under the hood can cause them to loose their tension? Just a guess, I'm not a metallurgist. Yep my leak was right away, but its possible that if you took the hose off once that the clamp didn't completely reseal the hose. Any antifreeze stuck between the hose and hose housing will act as a lubricant if the clamp isn't tight enough to force it out, thus causing a possible leak. I'm just rambling at this point, ok I'll stop. I don't think those oem hose clamps should be considered reusable.
. I don't think those oem hose clamps should be considered reusable.
11-01-2003, 07:50 AM
#57
Cost Drivers!!!!
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Chemmech
I think the only reason why my hose was not being secured by the clamp was that the clamp had worn out or lost its tension, due to opening and closing it to get the new hose on. To be honest with you, I don't think those calmps are very good, I replaced them with the traditional screwdriver tightened type. Also, over time, maybe the heat under the hood can cause them to loose their tension? Just a guess, I'm not a metallurgist. Yep my leak was right away, but its possible that if you took the hose off once that the clamp didn't completely reseal it. Any antifreeze stuck between the hose and hose housing will act as a lubricant if the clamp isn't tight enough to force it out, thus causing a possible leak. I'm just rambling at this point, ok I'll stop.
I think the only reason why my hose was not being secured by the clamp was that the clamp had worn out or lost its tension, due to opening and closing it to get the new hose on. To be honest with you, I don't think those calmps are very good, I replaced them with the traditional screwdriver tightened type. Also, over time, maybe the heat under the hood can cause them to loose their tension? Just a guess, I'm not a metallurgist. Yep my leak was right away, but its possible that if you took the hose off once that the clamp didn't completely reseal it. Any antifreeze stuck between the hose and hose housing will act as a lubricant if the clamp isn't tight enough to force it out, thus causing a possible leak. I'm just rambling at this point, ok I'll stop
.
no no continue
yer right i was looking at those clamps and they aren't the best. Welp the car is at the dealer hopefully they'll be good to the car.
.
11-01-2003, 08:57 AM
#59
To be honest I much preffer the spring type clamps as opposed to the screw variety .The reason for this is that the screw type clamps (coomon parts store variety not the aircraft grade) have a tendency to be overtightened damaging the hose it is being used on .If in good condition these spring clamps will last the life of the car always maintaining even tension over the entire circumference of the hose without cutting the hose in the process.
Jens
Jens
11-01-2003, 10:02 AM
#60
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I think my comptech silicon radiator hose may have a larger outside diameter than the original hose. It seems to be wraped in some sort of insulating tape.
11-01-2003, 12:27 PM
#63
Cost Drivers!!!!
Thread Starter
verdict is in......
a rock through the radiator.
I assume there is no way to fix this? Bill is going to be close to $500. Too expensive? Car won't be ready for a few days.
a rock through the radiator.
I assume there is no way to fix this? Bill is going to be close to $500. Too expensive? Car won't be ready for a few days.
11-01-2003, 12:41 PM
#64
Originally posted by Zapata
verdict is in......
a rock through the radiator. I assume there is no way to fix this? Bill is going to be close to $500. Too expensive? Car won't be ready for a few days.
verdict is in......
a rock through the radiator.
I assume there is no way to fix this? Bill is going to be close to $500. Too expensive? Car won't be ready for a few days.
That sucks. Do you have any kind of grill, like the gutter guard one, on your car? I wonder if that could help prevent rocks from hitting the radiator?
11-01-2003, 12:49 PM
#65
Cost Drivers!!!!
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Nitin
That sucks. Do you have any kind of grill, like the gutter guard one, on your car? I wonder if that could help prevent rocks from hitting the radiator?
That sucks. Do you have any kind of grill, like the gutter guard one, on your car? I wonder if that could help prevent rocks from hitting the radiator?
going to do this now for sure. Get some black colored chit.
11-01-2003, 06:12 PM
#66
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Originally posted by Jens H.
To be honest I much preffer the spring type clamps as opposed to the screw variety .
To be honest I much preffer the spring type clamps as opposed to the screw variety .
But boy did it hurt some when we were tuning the system. I got nailed by a few loose clamps. And once I thought I needed stitches. :o
11-01-2003, 06:17 PM
#67
Oh man Scalbert believe me I have managed to get nailed a few times by these spring clamps ,you can always tell when one of these little f#ckers let's go at an inopportune moment .The cussing is unbelievable .
Jens
Jens
11-02-2003, 08:51 AM
#69
Zapata ,the radiator is a plastic/aluminium unit repairing it would require a miracle .
Chemmech ,the hoses are made of silicone partially for heat but also because the tape buildup method allows for an economical way to make a low production run hose like this one .
Allmotor ,plain old gutter guard will probably be best .You want to avoid to tight mesh as even a mesh grille restricts airflow and this in turn adds more stress to the cooling system in a car .
Jens
Chemmech ,the hoses are made of silicone partially for heat but also because the tape buildup method allows for an economical way to make a low production run hose like this one .
Allmotor ,plain old gutter guard will probably be best .You want to avoid to tight mesh as even a mesh grille restricts airflow and this in turn adds more stress to the cooling system in a car .
Jens
11-02-2003, 08:59 AM
#71
Cost Drivers!!!!
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Jens H.
Zapata ,the radiator is a plastic/aluminium unit repairing it would require a miracle .
Chemmech ,the hoses are made of silicone partially for heat but also because the tape buildup method allows for an economical way to make a low production run hose like this one .
Allmotor ,plain old gutter guard will probably be best .You want to avoid to tight mesh as even a mesh grille restricts airflow and this in turn adds more stress to the cooling system in a car .
Jens
Zapata ,the radiator is a plastic/aluminium unit repairing it would require a miracle .
Chemmech ,the hoses are made of silicone partially for heat but also because the tape buildup method allows for an economical way to make a low production run hose like this one .
Allmotor ,plain old gutter guard will probably be best .You want to avoid to tight mesh as even a mesh grille restricts airflow and this in turn adds more stress to the cooling system in a car .
Jens
that's what i figured just one of those things i guess
Thanks alot for your help!
11-02-2003, 12:04 PM
#72
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Originally posted by Zapata
verdict is in......
a rock through the radiator. I assume there is no way to fix this? Bill is going to be close to $500. Too expensive? Car won't be ready for a few days.
verdict is in......
a rock through the radiator.
I assume there is no way to fix this? Bill is going to be close to $500. Too expensive? Car won't be ready for a few days.
I'm wondering how a rock got to the radiator without damaging anything else. The A/C condensor covers the whole area in front of it. THere is also tubing for the oil cooler on the lower part. Did they show you where a rock hit it? Seems like there would be a lot of other things damaged if a rock actually went through the radiator.
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