JDM Inspire Type-S engine swap
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
JDM Inspire Type-S engine swap
All right folks!
Finally going to make the move to bring back my CLS-6 from the dead. I first bought the car 1 year ago with 100k miles and a CEL light. Came to find that 2 cylinders were low on compression (burnt exhaust valves and piston rings that didn't hold compression) as well as a few other small problems. The clutch is slipping like no tomorrow, the MPG is about 10, and the car is just about on its last legs.
This thread is primarily intended for me to gain some valuable insight that any member may be able to give, but it could turn into a build thread of some sort provided I have the time to document the whole process while balancing work and school.
So lets start with a parts list.....all parts will be new unless otherwise stated
1. used JDM inspire type s j32a engine
2. aasco lightweight flywheel
3. LUK OEM clutch kit
4. xlr8 62a motor mounts
5. hybrid racing shifter cable bushings
6. OEM shifter cables
7. stainless steel clutch line
8. OEM timing belt kit
9. OEM rear main seal
10. x-s power stainless headers
Main concerns I have are hooking up the USDM 6-speed ecu to the JDM engine and finding a way to plug the extra coolant outlet that the JDM inspires had. Anyone with experience doing this swap or who could chime in with any advice is welcome to post! Thanks!
Finally going to make the move to bring back my CLS-6 from the dead. I first bought the car 1 year ago with 100k miles and a CEL light. Came to find that 2 cylinders were low on compression (burnt exhaust valves and piston rings that didn't hold compression) as well as a few other small problems. The clutch is slipping like no tomorrow, the MPG is about 10, and the car is just about on its last legs.
This thread is primarily intended for me to gain some valuable insight that any member may be able to give, but it could turn into a build thread of some sort provided I have the time to document the whole process while balancing work and school.
So lets start with a parts list.....all parts will be new unless otherwise stated
1. used JDM inspire type s j32a engine
2. aasco lightweight flywheel
3. LUK OEM clutch kit
4. xlr8 62a motor mounts
5. hybrid racing shifter cable bushings
6. OEM shifter cables
7. stainless steel clutch line
8. OEM timing belt kit
9. OEM rear main seal
10. x-s power stainless headers
Main concerns I have are hooking up the USDM 6-speed ecu to the JDM engine and finding a way to plug the extra coolant outlet that the JDM inspires had. Anyone with experience doing this swap or who could chime in with any advice is welcome to post! Thanks!
#4
well if he wants to do things the hard way, why stop him
#5
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
Lol, just seems that he think the JDM engine is better. Actually, I think it is rated for a little less HP/TQ over the USDM. Might be just be a JDM tune for emissions or something.
Either way, the rest of the list looks pretty badass. Definitely would be a sick car with those mods.
Either way, the rest of the list looks pretty badass. Definitely would be a sick car with those mods.
#6
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Why would a Japanese market engine be a bigger headache? The blocks are identical aside from a single cooling outlet.
Motors from Japan also have considerably lower miles compared to U.S. market motors.
I also live in Hawaii, so the shipping issue is going to make buying a mainland motor just as expensive. Seemed like a win win situation in my opinion.
About the HP/TQ thing... They don't put out more or less. It is the same motor.
Motors from Japan also have considerably lower miles compared to U.S. market motors.
I also live in Hawaii, so the shipping issue is going to make buying a mainland motor just as expensive. Seemed like a win win situation in my opinion.
About the HP/TQ thing... They don't put out more or less. It is the same motor.
#7
6mt swapped..smart
I chimed in a thread about this a while back which looks like you may have read.
For the extra coolant outlets (2), just buy some rubber caps from a parts store and clamp them. The usdm harness and ecu are plug and play just like your current motor. No problems there.
For the extra coolant outlets (2), just buy some rubber caps from a parts store and clamp them. The usdm harness and ecu are plug and play just like your current motor. No problems there.
The following users liked this post:
Matt Yosh (11-23-2013)
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#8
3.5 psi
iTrader: (1)
i read in another thread that the J32A2 heads will clear a J35 block. So how about finding a used J35A4 and slapping on some J32A2 heads on there. Headers will still fit, and you have some added tq.
Reference: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=714305&page=5
Reference: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=714305&page=5
The following users liked this post:
Matt Yosh (11-23-2013)
#9
In search of excitement
He said they were the same engine, but the tune is different. IE you can have the same motor but if the computers are different the engine will operate differently. IDK myself just clarifying for him
#10
Senior Moderator
Just get a J35A3 from a MDX. Its an identical block and internals other than the crank which is just a slightly larger stroke (where the .3 of displacement comes from) and everything to the J32A2. Reuse your type-s heads or at min your cams and you will have a 3.5 type-s
The following 3 users liked this post by fsttyms1:
#13
6mt swapped..smart
#14
I Wanna Beer
The following users liked this post:
Matt Yosh (11-23-2013)
#16
Lol@ theweez yet again. He wasn't happy with his cl and sold it. He assumes everyone else should do the same thing. That is just the human brain trying to justify itself.
The following users liked this post:
Matt Yosh (11-23-2013)
#17
6mt swapped..smart
#18
Dharma Member
iTrader: (1)
Just get a J35A3 from a MDX. Its an identical block and internals other than the crank which is just a slightly larger stroke (where the .3 of displacement comes from) and everything to the J32A2. Reuse your type-s heads or at min your cams and you will have a 3.5 type-s
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Aegean CL-S (06-12-2014)
#22
Senior Moderator
The Js5a4 will work but it isnt as strong or as good as the A3. The A3 has better cyl liners and crank
The J35A5 and up do not bolt up to our trans (07+TL etc)
Last edited by fsttyms1; 11-22-2013 at 01:57 PM.
#23
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I chimed in a thread about this a while back which looks like you may have read.
For the extra coolant outlets (2), just buy some rubber caps from a parts store and clamp them. The usdm harness and ecu are plug and play just like your current motor. No problems there.
For the extra coolant outlets (2), just buy some rubber caps from a parts store and clamp them. The usdm harness and ecu are plug and play just like your current motor. No problems there.
#25
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (2)
Just get a J35A3 from a MDX. Its an identical block and internals other than the crank which is just a slightly larger stroke (where the .3 of displacement comes from) and everything to the J32A2. Reuse your type-s heads or at min your cams and you will have a 3.5 type-s
If your going to get a engine anyway. May as well be bigger.
But since you just bought the other...good luck.
Last edited by fuzzy02CLS; 11-23-2013 at 06:16 PM.
#26
Intermediate
Thread Starter
My type-s heads on the original motor would need to be rebuilt if I was to slap them on a J35a3 (burnt exhaust valves.) I want to avoid that headache.
Also, a quick question! I've read quite a few threads over the debate of using the UR lightweight pully set with the AASCO lightweight flywheel. Can someone with first hand experience chime in with the verdict?
Also, a quick question! I've read quite a few threads over the debate of using the UR lightweight pully set with the AASCO lightweight flywheel. Can someone with first hand experience chime in with the verdict?
#27
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
My type-s heads on the original motor would need to be rebuilt if I was to slap them on a J35a3 (burnt exhaust valves.) I want to avoid that headache.
Also, a quick question! I've read quite a few threads over the debate of using the UR lightweight pully set with the AASCO lightweight flywheel. Can someone with first hand experience chime in with the verdict?
Also, a quick question! I've read quite a few threads over the debate of using the UR lightweight pully set with the AASCO lightweight flywheel. Can someone with first hand experience chime in with the verdict?
The following users liked this post:
Matt Yosh (11-24-2013)
#28
CL and CLS transmissions are mechanically identical except for the 3rd gear clutch pack with is larger on the CL-S for extra holding power. you can swap one for the other no issues bolting up and plugging in the electronics.
#29
The J35A3 is the EXACT same block as the J32A2. I know. I bored one out, stuck the 3.7 internals in it and now have a 3.7 liter and it is bolted up to my CL trans.
The Js5a4 will work but it isnt as strong or as good as the A3. The A3 has better cyl liners and crank
The J35A5 and up do not bolt up to our trans (07+TL etc)
#30
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Hey there everyone! Back with a little update on the swap.... I just got an email from the company I bought the engine from and it seems that they somehow dropped my engine off the lift... and apparently it is in no condition to be shipped :\ So a few emails and a full refund later I am actually excited to say I may be going the J35A3 bottom end route!
Just to clarify the J35A3 come out of 01-02 MDX and what year Odyssey? Also anyone know a ballpark quote of how much it would cost to get one of my J32A2 heads rebuilt? (burnt exhaust valves on one, the other is fine.)
Just to clarify the J35A3 come out of 01-02 MDX and what year Odyssey? Also anyone know a ballpark quote of how much it would cost to get one of my J32A2 heads rebuilt? (burnt exhaust valves on one, the other is fine.)
#31
Pro
iTrader: (6)
J35a3 came out of the MDX, the Odyssey used a j35a1 its not the same. The j35a3 uses the same head casting as the j32a2 so all you really need is to swap the cams (you may consider having a valve job done and use new springs or old j32a2). You will also have to pull the cam sensors & housings and the cam sensor as the 6 speed cars where different from the others. If you do have the valves done you should have the heads milled to 0.020" that will bring you at least back to the same static compression ratio that the j32a2 cams where designed for, I personally am milling 0.30" which should get me close to 10.75:1 comp.
#33
Pro
iTrader: (6)
The J35A3 was the only one the share the block of the J32A2 and have the spun cast sleeves in place of the fiber, plus the block its self was reinforced and the J35A3 used forged crank and rods. And if I'm not mistaken the A6 and up used the the single exhaust opening heads.
J35A1
1999 - 2001 Honda Odyssey
J35A3
2001 - 2002 Acura MDX
2004 - 2007 Saturn Vue L66
J35A4
2002 - 2004 Honda Odyssey
2003 - 2004 Honda Pilot
J35A6
2005+ Honda Odyssey Van, LX, EX
2005 Honda Pilot
J35A1
1999 - 2001 Honda Odyssey
J35A3
2001 - 2002 Acura MDX
2004 - 2007 Saturn Vue L66
J35A4
2002 - 2004 Honda Odyssey
2003 - 2004 Honda Pilot
J35A6
2005+ Honda Odyssey Van, LX, EX
2005 Honda Pilot
Last edited by 03 tls nc; 12-04-2013 at 09:51 PM.
#34
Intermediate
Thread Starter
hey folks!
its been a while since an update but i was finally able to start working on the motor swap earlier this week.
Got the motor in no problem and swapped out everything needed to get it running, but ran into a big problem firing it up. The motor doesnt have ANY oil pressure. After some trouble shooting I know that the sensor is working correctly and the oil isnt even getting to the filter.... I even tried cranking it over a couple times without the sensor installed to see if it would shoot some oil out, but none did. Personally beginning to think that it could be the pressure relief valve being stuck open from sitting too long or debris lodged in it, but any opinions would be greatly appreciated.
its been a while since an update but i was finally able to start working on the motor swap earlier this week.
Got the motor in no problem and swapped out everything needed to get it running, but ran into a big problem firing it up. The motor doesnt have ANY oil pressure. After some trouble shooting I know that the sensor is working correctly and the oil isnt even getting to the filter.... I even tried cranking it over a couple times without the sensor installed to see if it would shoot some oil out, but none did. Personally beginning to think that it could be the pressure relief valve being stuck open from sitting too long or debris lodged in it, but any opinions would be greatly appreciated.
#35
Intermediate
Thread Starter
heres some pictures of the swap progess!
out with the old
new vs old clutch
here the differences with the two extra coolant outlets with the usdm j32a2 and jdm j32a
this motor mount has seen better days
new motor in. sorry, not very exciting. looks exactly the same
lunch break and a little liquid stress relief.
out with the old
new vs old clutch
here the differences with the two extra coolant outlets with the usdm j32a2 and jdm j32a
this motor mount has seen better days
new motor in. sorry, not very exciting. looks exactly the same
lunch break and a little liquid stress relief.
#36
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
Definitely make the motor more than a 3.2. Due to the fact u just need to swap existing internals from other cars it is so much cheaper and more simple than doing a full custom build. If I had the motor out and time to work on it I would totally make the displacement as big as possible...
No replacement for displacement my friend
No replacement for displacement my friend
#37
Instructor
iTrader: (2)
Definitely make the motor more than a 3.2. Due to the fact u just need to swap existing internals from other cars it is so much cheaper and more simple than doing a full custom build. If I had the motor out and time to work on it I would totally make the displacement as big as possible...
No replacement for displacement my friend
No replacement for displacement my friend
The only way to do a quick and dirty J35 build with J32A2 heads is to buy a used complete J35A3/4 and swap on the J32A2 heads.
I've looked at the pricing of stoker parts (oem) and any way you go you're looking at around 1K in parts alone, at the very cheapest.
Matt, might just be me but I think the Image links are broken.
As for all of the nay sayers regarding the JDM J32A, I have one in my car right now and its running like a champ. No ecu problems with the domestic chassis whatsoever. The JDM engines can be cheaper than the USDM ones if you know where to look, and the Honda badge is swag-tastic.
The following users liked this post:
Matt Yosh (03-29-2014)
#38
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Matt, might just be me but I think the Image links are broken.
As for all of the nay sayers regarding the JDM J32A, I have one in my car right now and its running like a champ. No ecu problems with the domestic chassis whatsoever. The JDM engines can be cheaper than the USDM ones if you know where to look, and the Honda badge is swag-tastic.
As for the main topic and issue about having ZERO oil pressure. Anyone want to chime in? Ill let you use my mahalo rewards card if your ever in hawaii ;] Thanks!
Last edited by Matt Yosh; 03-29-2014 at 05:00 PM. Reason: mahalo rewards card
#40
Intermediate
Thread Starter
No problem, I appreciate any constructive feedback. Compression is fine and I have 5w-30 conventional which would raise the oil pressure if anything.
Last edited by Matt Yosh; 03-29-2014 at 05:34 PM.