Hey guys my j32a2 in my six speed cl is on its way out. I found a nice j35a8. My question is what exactly do I need to do make it work in my cl. Anything major? Engine harness stuff? I do know I need to swap some sensors but not sure which ones. Any insight about this would be greatly appreciated! I've done a search but all the threads I find are about swapping heads, pistons and cams. Most of that seems unnecessary since this engine is already a type s engine.

Thanks,
Colt

 

Don't use that engine. They are the newer design with the headers cast into the head. Grab a J35A3. Either put your CL heads on, or just swap your CL cams in. Here's a thread on what has to be swapped from your 6speed to the J35:
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...s-cls6-915106/

 

Thanks man. So it doesn't work at all because the exhaust? I am probably better off just finding another j32a2. I don't want to be taking engines apart. My j32 was over revved bad not sure what's messed up but I wouldn't be surprised if the heads are damaged. It's down on power. Probably lost compression as well.

 

Just swap the parts in the thread I posted. You can leave the cams alone. You'll have gobs more torque.

 

So I can just leave the stock a3 heads and cams on it, swap the 6 speed crank sensor and gear. Do I need to swap the cam gears over as well even know I'm not swapping over the cams?

 

Sorry I'm not like a master mechanic so this a lot to comprehend for me In just trying to fix my car up a little so I don't have to get another car so soon.

 

Post #21 lists everything to swap from your J32 to the J35. Yes you'll just swap the entire J35, heads and all.

Are you doing the swap or a shop? Either way it's not a lot to change over.

 

Your best bet aside from another J32 is the J35A3 out of a 01-02 MDX.

I don't know how mechanically inclined you are but it's all pretty straight forward.

 

I've been researching this engine swap on the forums, and I've read successful jobs but I haven't been able to find details on torque/power before/after. We can assume the stock j32 is 160hp, what is the final horsepower after the swap, not counting the other upgrades done? (most of the people who did j35 also had other upgrades which sort of skew the actual j32 to j35 swap difference.

 

I wanna know what happened to OP's original engine..

did he break it? cuz I have a hard time believing that an engine is on its way out....

 

I've heard from several sources and Acura techs that the engine should last 300k with no real maintenance needed. Maybe a bad lemon for the O.P.

I was thinking of doing it for more torque/hp, but I haven't been able to get definitive numbers to weigh against the cost.

 

well, I dropped in a used engine into my 3G TL. because I broke my other one.

I wanted to know if OP didnt maintain his engine or if he broke it, like I did.

the used engine that I swapped in, has over 100K miles, but is not really a concern to me, as most likely all it will ever need is fresh oil.


but yes, I think the OP was trying to justify gaining more torque and HP by saying that his engine is on its way out

 

Lance, what I think is prohibiting power in the 2G TL, is the transmission.
because the J32 is super strong!!!!

in my car, 2006 TL 6 speed manual, the J32a3 with the cast-in heads, makes 220hp to the wheels stock.

 

Think you meant stock CLS is 260hp, but that was before sae was used. It really is 240-245 HP.

J35 is about more low end torque, not necessarily more HP.

If you want more power get a shop to make a custom header. You want longer and wider primaries. Comptech primaries are 1.5" each. I'd go with 1.6 to 1.75" primaries. You also want true merge collectors. On my exhaust I also have venturi sections before the merges, but my primaries are still limited.

Have pics of custom header in my thread. One concern had with those is that the front bank primaries are much longer than the rear, plus they are not equal length piping either.

A stand alone ECU will help quite a bit, especially under the curve.

Depending on how well headers are built, you can gain 50-80 HP and 40-60 TQ with just intake mods, pulley, exhaust, and stand alone ecu. You also lose weight in process and don't reduce reliability. It is a triple win.

This is best route to take in my opinion. You don't need to bother with engine internals and still keep reliability that can be lost with built engine or turbo.

 

As always, educated and wonderful advice Brian. Is it possible to do custom headers and keep the stock "cat back" exhaust tune/sound?

I did an improved air filter (K&N) that fits into the stock air box, I'm assuming in order to gain more it would require removing the stock air box and putting in the "cone" type that pipes closer to the lower front part of the car.
I do have a concern about potentially piping it down because I live in floody/Florida and in a neighborhood that is actually below sea level (insurance for our homes on the water are insane and now don't cover flood). That being said, the current setup has allowed me to traverse 2 feet of water reliably getting in/out where Mercedes cars would suck up the water.

If you have any ideas or advice about the standalone ECU that works with a automatic transmission and doesn't require someone like you to maintain it I would be very grateful. I am not as knowledgeable about car engines or the details supporting them. I would definitely need something plug and play or something that makes it easy for a complete novice to "tune' without hurting myself or the car.

As you know, reliability and stock look are key and you've given me a lot of great advice on how to achieve/maintain that. Even though you've created a beast that would torment others on the track, I appreciate you keeping in mind my mindset of the car.

Kudos sir, always appreciated.

 

For exhaust, noise mainly comes down to mufflers and resonators used. Use bigger or more of them to tone down to your liking. My big resonator does a pretty good job, but would have preferred 2 smaller ones

For me, the intake tubing was a restriction at around 2.5" inside diameter. Inside of my intake tube now is 3.6". You could try and find a used Comptech icebox or make your own.

I will be building a custom box with a down tube that attaches to Fog Light vent for forced air feeding. It will also limit air buildup in bumper that causes drag and lift. Look out for it in next month or 2. Just need to decide what material to use between aluminum, lexan, or abs plastic.

A stand alone ECU might be too much for your build. You would need to pick what ECU, get a shop to make custom harness. You also want them to make it easy to swap oem ecu back in every year for emissions testing.

Emissions testing, cost, and having to drive 2 hours north to install and tune it are reasons I have not done it yet. So much still to do. Not really sure about auto transmission options. Could always try piggyback like Emanage.

 

Luckily here in FL, emissions isn't an issue. So perhaps a one time reprogram of the stock one or a replacement?

I'll be excited to see your new forced air from the useless fog light vents. If you need extra vent plastics I think Acura kept mine.

 

You can't really rewrite ECU. Piggyback or standalone.

Don't really need extra vents, thanks though. Might end up using fog vent for Brake ducts and have intake tube extend to front grille.

 

Apologies in advance for reviving such an old thread (nube move I know).

I recently picked up a 03 CL-S 6spd with high miles for the cheap and am beginning the compilation of parts and info for 3.5 build.

Most notably I have just ordered a J35A8 from an 05 RL. Before you say why or suggest the j35a3, etc, the price was right and only 51k miles.

My initial idea is to use the j35a8 block with j32a2 heads, possibly with a slightly thicker head gasket to account for in the valve clearances, compression ratio. etc.

Stock ecu is to be retained, as I ave not yet located a tuner I trust in my area.

Realizing that the easiest route is not always the best I now ask for your opinions and recommendations.

i.e. should I get new factory j32a2 pistons to run in the j35a8 or is that crazy talk?

Final notes: I am a retired ASE mechanic and have done some other swaps/builds, this is a 4th car as far as ability to put down for a while, but I am interested mostly in reliability and durability.

anxiously awaiting your expert opinions / constructive criticism.

 

Are you absolutely certain that the J35A8 block will bolt up to you CLS-6 transmission?
I don't think I've seen one of those actually used as a J35 swap alternative for the 2G CL. Those who have done it usually opt for the J35A3 as mentioned above.

 

An excellent question. As I mentioned earlier, I am still compiling info on the swap.

This may be the factor that determines if I keep this CL-S body, craigslist has a couple 6spd TLs for $5-6k.

the oem bell housing part numbers are definitely different. Does anyone know if it's just a simple bell housing swap?

 

I'm hesitant to mention on an Acura site, but one of my other cars is a 00 prelude.

Yes, it has a JDM H22, with nitrous but that's only fun until the bottle runs out.

This one is also a candidate for a J35A8 swap.

Buy a TL, TL trans or start a prelude v6 swap? I have some time to think it over.

 

IMHO, the best bang for the buck is the J35A3, Type-S cams for the 2G CL/TL platform. They are plentiful at salvage yards and cheap.

If you want a 3G TL, here are a couple of threads with ideas. You may have already reviewed them?
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...spd-tl-964791/

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...6-swap-977961/

I'm thinking it's not going to fit.

 

Thanks for the feedback and links.

Unfortunately, I paid for the J35a8 block already

for budget purposes, leaning toward pulling j35 crank, rods and possibly pistons, hone j32 block, new rings, bearings, etc.

Then see what else I can budget for upgrades after that. (header, valve springs).

The a8 block may just go on the shelf until I can find something more useful to use it for.

 

You definitely jumped the gun on the A8..

The J35A3 is definitely the go to swap for these cars but since that's out of the question, your best is to stuff the A8 rotating assembly into the A2 block. You could use the A8 block if you swap over the clutch case from a 08+ Accord 6MT or 07/08 TL-S 6MT but that's up to you. Not sure the mounting locations are identical to the CL-S though.

As for the A2 heads on the A8 block, it's been done but it's not a walk in the park either.

Cliff notes:

Research before buying motors..

 

If he used the 08+Accord 6MT or 07/08 TL-S clutch case(s), he'd still have to remedy the lack of the tranny side crank sensor boss needed to run the CL-S6 ECU?

 

Yeah, definitely the wrong engine, the J35A8 block will not bolt up to the transmission, and if the clutch case/bell housing is changed out from a newer car, then there will still be potential retrofitting issues relative to mount points, sensors, the starter, and which flywheel to use. Much-MUCH simpler and probably cheaper to sell the J35A8 the OP just paid for and invest in a J35A3.

 

Good catch. Some guys try to drill a hole but as you can imagine, doesn't end well.

So your only option is to swap over the rotating assembly.... or save the A8 for the lude & jump on the A3 bandwagon

 

Hell, I'm only repeating what I learned off you on here. You were one of the 'pioneers', so I'll cut you some slack.

That little pesky tranny side crank sensor, only relevant on 3500+ manual CL-S' (of which a quarter+ are probably toast by now) alway's rears its dastardly head, when it comes to the 'fine details'.

 

thanks for all the good info guys. I knew I came to the right place, unfortunately a bit late.

I'll be sure to bang my head on something promptly.

as for way ahead, i'm still kicking around the idea of sourcing a tl with a compatible trans. the bb6 v6 is also intriguing.

decisions, decisions.

 

What is a "bb6"?

 

97-01 prelude. I have two of them.

 

Here's five of them if the link works correctly. If it does not, just do 'buy vehicles'; advance search. Maybe something is real close by cheap?

https://erepairables.com/advanced-se...model%5B%5D=tl

 

nice site thanks. i hadnt really thought of buying a whole wrecked car.

I was actually meaning to get an additional streetable tl.

its kinda my recurring hobby to buy high mileage cars and replace the motor, trans what have you.

 

I'm a sucker for high mileage projects as well. They all have 1 thing in common...a J35 swap

 

@teh CL Speaking of being burned by the 'tranny side CKP-B sensor' from the CL-S6.

The guy on the thread below has a jswap 02 Accord coupe. He used an auto JDM J32A2, converted it to a manual transmission compatible J32A2 running on a CL-S6 ECU. However, instead of using a CL-S 6-speed transmission, he used an 05 TL-6 that lacks a CKP-B sensor. He's wondering why he's getting only CKP-A code P0335.

Maybe you can see something I missed.

The conversation starts at post #19.
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-.../#post16450944

Thanks in advance!

 

As I understand it, there is no such a thing as a transmission which will A) fit the J35A8 and B) have a port for the necessary sensor.

 

buying a manual equipped 07-08 tl type s wont work?

high priced and rare as they may be, I did see a couple on ebay in need of new owners

 

Here is what I understand:

• The manual transmission from 2007-2008 Type-S will bolt up to the J35A8 (which is the default engine from a Type-S), however,
• The clutch housing does not have any accommodations for the sensor the CL is expecting.
• What may also be an issue is mounting points; I'm thinking this is a low probability, but worth noting.

 

got it, but I think you're missing that I'm not committed to keeping the cl.