Akim711

I'll admit I'm just average joe when it comes to car maintenence, so I hope some of you don't mock me when you see these pictures...

I was doing a typical wheel rotation and noticed that one of the lugnuts on the left front wheel had tremendous resistance when I was trying to loosen it. Eventually I got it out, and it took out the whole stud with it. So right now, I only have 4 lugnuts in the front, but I noticed one lug on right wheel did it TOO. So its one lug on each of the front rotors thats broken off...





I don't have warranty, and I'm completely broke... This is honestly the worst time for this crap to happen.... Will this be an easy fix? And what did I do wrong that this happened??? I've owned a lot of cars, but I've never seen this happen before.

(Just incase, I got 78750 miles, h&r sport springs, tokico shocks, contisport 235/45/17 tires, type-s 17x7 wheels...)

F900

Akim

I'm no expert myself, but from the looks of the lugnuts, the one that broke of looks corroded, you can see the copper (rust) around where it broke off.

momentum3.2

it happens. Overtightening. I did it twice on my old '91 4runner. They' have to remove your brake, install a new hub or redrill and install a new stud...whichever costs more I'm sure....

liloj

i did this before on my civic.....just removed the brakes...then the axle nut..used a slide hmmer to pull the hub....knocked old stud out..put new one in...fill bearing with grease....put hub back on....reinstall axle nut...put brakes together..and then your done.....not real complicated..just a lot a time to get the hub off........i dont know if the brake/axle system is the same as a honda civic..im guessing it would be pretty close....i think most places charge about 100-150 to do this.....i only paid $.99 for the stud

SirSpif

I'm with liloj, it's really not hard to fix and if you have a little mechanical know how you should just do it yourself. It's definately a PITA but really it just takes more time than anything else.

Good luck!

momentum3.2

personally I'd pay $100 to goodyear, local mechanic, etc. so that the burden is on him when my brakes failed because I rushed to put them back together...

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

I've seen it happen also. In fact I thought one of mine were goingt to brake off once too. I'd get a shop to fix it. Don't bother doing it yourself if you don't know how. If you don't have the $$ right now, you can run fine with only 4 lugs. Your wheels are not going to fall off.

ProbyOne

My friend just put some 23s on his yukon... and something similar happened...

They had over-tightened the lugs when he had his tires rotated...

sry to hear that happened..


BTW this is my first post over here in the CL forum... I have a neighbor with a 02-03 CL-S,
that car is awesome

xenon7

break out that can of PB Blaster and soak those threads down before using anything on that stud.

Might need to use the "Blue Wrench" to when trying to remove!

dfreder371

This is no biggie. Remove the caliper but leave the brake line attached to it. Remove rotor. With a hammer and a drift pin, drive out the old stud. They are splined, or "ribbed." Buy a couple of new studs, pound them back in from the other side. Should cost you less than $5.

Let me share one of my funny car repairs with you. I had a Fiat X 1/9 which was a great little fun car to drive, but they had a habit of blowing head gaskets. This is around 1978, 1980 or so, when emission controls on cars were truely nightmares. Undaunted, I removed all of the seeming hundreds of hoses (naturally, I did not label them), removed the intake and exhaust manifolds and finally the head with offending gasket, and put the whole thing back together again.

Now realize, this was a mid engine car, and this was not an easy task.

Imagine my pride as I twisted the key, and the damn thing fired right up! Until...that is...I was standing behind the car and felt my right foot getting wet with bright green antifreeze coming out of the tailpipe. I had plugged a small diameter radiator hose used to heat the carbeurator into the exhaust manifold, and vice versa.

mc222

Ive had to replace several - Dealer charged me $120 to fix...Local shop charged me $25 to fix the second time...Do yourself a favor and change all 5 while they have everything off....for 5 extra bucks you possibly save yourself a bundle in the long run because chances are, if one was overtightened or off - The others are prob. the same way.

Good luck!

Fabvsix

Bringing your car to idiots like Big-O tires do things like this. I learned my lesson, as they did just that, broke it by tighting it too much ! idiots are suppose to do this day in and day out !
Cost me lot's of money to repair and don't let the Honda dealership order it, cause those morons ordered the wrong one, because the "TYPE S" HAS IT OWN UNIQUE SIZE, which no dealerships carried ! Pain in the rear to resolve !

evilone

yes that happens all of time some one prob cross threaded it with an impact wrench when putting your wheels back on. any tire shop should be able to repair it pretty cheap. good luck

Mongolian

Hehe. Andy so no posting of your headlights???

-Big Andy

lrutt

First thing I do on all my cars at first tire rotation ( I rotate every oil change) is coat the studs with antisieze. I've never had a problem.

S202

its easy if you have certain tools..
if its a hassle go to a mechanic.. its anywhere from $60-$100
the stud itself is only like $2

Starter

This is very good advice. The lugs were probably run on with an air gun, so all would have been over tightened.

Also don't let the tire,etc. shops use a torque stick with the air gun either. I always insist that they hand torque the wheels (and stand there while they do it).

Not sure if its different for other years, but my 03 CL-S is 80 ft. lbs.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

i've gotten into pretty heated discussions with car mechanics working on my car when they use air tools to tighten my lugs, they always have some stupid exscuses as to what is wrong and it is never anyone's fault, they can use a torque bar (i guess) but they shoudl really just tighten them lightly, those air guns put out liek 120 at least, and your wheels shouldn't take more than what starter said, 75-80, you shouldn't even put all your weight into it when your tightening by hand

Joe5.0

I dont know about the CL, but my Taurus & Mustang were both ~90 ft lbs for the lugs. I dont take my car anywhere to do the rotations, and if I do have a tire shop install my wheels they get loosened & re-torqued when I get home. A quality tq wrench is only ~$40 and can save alot of hassles. Incorrectly tq'd lugs can cause warped rotors too.

I also put a dab of motor oil on the studs before the winter time because the salt up here can cause some corrosion.

SirSpif

I couldn't agree more with CleanCL. My friend is a mechanic at Pep Boys and their shop actually requires them to use a torque wrench on the lug nuts. They spin the nuts close to snug with the air gun and then finish with a torque wrench. Most places are in too much of a hurry to be bothered doing it properly. Gotta finish that job that's 2.0 billable hours in 45 minutes ya know.

jtkz13, oil in the threads makes sense to help keep it from siezing but I've never heard of over torqued lug nuts causing the rotors to warp. Can anyone explain why this would be? I'm just not seeing how if the sandwich of the hub, rotor and wheel is going to cause the rotor to warp if it's tighter or looser???

Zippee

Remember that a torque wrench measures turning resistance which is a function of both the tension applied to the fastener and the friction in the thread.

If you lube the lugs with either oil or anti-sieze you need to reduce the applied torque a tad, maybe 5 ft/lb or so. The instructions that come with the wrench may show the difference between dry and lubed.