Installing my strut tower brace
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Mobile, Alabama
Installing my strut tower brace
I recently bought a new STB for my car, I'll post pics of it when I get home. I was wondering if I need to install my stock STB in addition to the new one, or just the one by itself would be sufficient. Any help or instllation advice would be great!
It matters which bar you got. If it is the neuspeed then you use it along with the stock one. If it is comptech or cusco then it replaces the stock bar. I need to install my comptech one this weekend.
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, nevermind you would cause you like men
:theghey:
so not so bad (and actually made a couple of dollars in the process too (only like 5 though)
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,343
Likes: 4
From: Mobile, Alabama
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,343
Likes: 4
From: Mobile, Alabama
Good to know I got a good deal. I'm going to hit it with some metal polish and my power ball tomorrow and see what that does. If it doesn't help my friend is going to take it to his shop and glass bead it so I can paint it. So I'm guessing this is the one where I don't need the OEM STB?
u cant use that one and the stock one. id rather have the oem one than the one u picked up. im against pivot points on a strut bar. and seeing how it only ties the two strut tower bars and not into the bulk head (fire wall), ur down grading. but thats just how i see it
^Correct. I am currently using the Cusco bar along with the oem bar. That one that Cl-Slick got looks like one of those Megan or ebay brand bars. I wouldn't consider it a cusco copy because it looks much different. But either way $10 for a strut tower ain't bad.
issue is not the bolts loosening, it the joints themselves rotating when the car flexes
so go to home depot or something, and get some grade 8 bolts (grade 9.8??? for metric) so you can really tighten those suckers up, and hopefully keep it from pivoting
so go to home depot or something, and get some grade 8 bolts (grade 9.8??? for metric) so you can really tighten those suckers up, and hopefully keep it from pivoting
Edit: Sorry guys didn't read through the end that you beat me to it.
Last edited by monkeybutt; Feb 25, 2010 at 07:00 PM.
probably won't be able to get larger bolts in there (not enough material around the holes), but you can get higher grade (stronger) bolts though, so they can then be tightened tighter, which should help keep the pivot from rotating any
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,343
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From: Mobile, Alabama
Ah, that's what I meant. I think I'm going to paint it SSM or a close color to that.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,343
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From: Mobile, Alabama
I don't have the gunmetal rims on any more, I'm rockin' the stockies for now. I was thinking metalcast red or SSM, but gunmetal might look nice in the engine bay. I'll have to go look at paint this weekend.
then repaint it (aka remove again, and possibly drop a stut down or so, for enough give to get it out and back in), but yes that would work though
also gotta remove the chrome first off the "eyebolts" so it will weld properly, and be full strength weld
also gotta remove the chrome first off the "eyebolts" so it will weld properly, and be full strength weld
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,343
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From: Mobile, Alabama
My friend's dad is a top notch welder so I'm sure he would help me out. My plan is to paint it the metalcast red for now, I can always change it later, tighten the hell out of the bolts until I can get it to the shop to be welded, and slap it on the car for the upcoming meet I will be attending. Any other thoughts? You guys' advice and comments have really helped me out with this thing because I honestly didn't know jack about them .
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