I just installed my Ingalls engine torque damper deal and I had some fun getting off the OEM stock strut bar. Anyway, I attempted to adjust the damper to 13mm from the standard 14mm that the damper came with. It was a bit tough to turn (guess I should clamp the damper in place?), so I pretty much left it. I did tighten the locking screw and then installed the damper as in the instructions.

Now that it's all done, I can still "spin" the strut-side of the damper one way or the other. Is this correct?! Or do I still need to tighten the locking screw more? Am I loosening or tightening the damper by doing this?

Any help would be much appreciated. Even still, we're still gonna go for a run in the mountains east of here and test my new bedded EBC yellow stuffs/sport rotors... let yall know how things go...

 

1 - The easiest way to install the strut bracket is to loosen all nuts on the strut top hat and jack that side of the car up until you can painlessly slip the bracket into place. Then slowly lower the car back down and bolt it down.

2 - That lock nut needs to be tightened. You are talking about the silver nut, right? The gold nuts are the dampening adjusters. Make sure the damper is at the proper length before you tighten it. The bolts shouldn't be cocked to one direction. They should be flush on the brackets.

 

http://www.ingallseng.com/Instructio...adjustment.pdf


nothing should be turning by hand. there are 3 nuts on the strut side. silver, small gold, large gold nuts.

to adjust it you actually need to adjust all 3 nuts (because going longer or shorter will move the hole and thus you need to adjust the length of the rod to match both bracket holes)

 

No, the silver lock nut needs to be loosened to lengthen the damper. The gold nuts are only touched if you want to adjust preload. The gold nuts have nothing to do with length.

 

How tight do you have yours.
Did you count the turns ?

 

I tossed mine in the way it came. Im going to tighten it all the way and see if I notice it. So far, I really dont.

It looks nice though.

 

adjusting the preload will inherently adjust the length. maybe you should look at yours again, perhaps take it apart like i have to understand how it works.


in case you can't figure it out, decreasing the preload (14mm -> 13mm) decreases the total damper length by 1mm. that's why you set your adjustment and then adjust the length, not the other way around.

 

I took it out for a ride and I can notice it at full WOT. Things just seem a bit smoother, especially when jumping up a gear from high RPMs. But still unsure about the bronze nuts, I tried adjusting it but it was tough to turn with an adjustable wrench. I'm starting with the set preload out of the box, but will try to shorten the distance to 13mm to see if I notice any difference.

Just the fact that it'll help save my motor mounts is all worth it. Now, about a motor mount upgrade...

And does anyone have the exact torque specs for all the bolts, especially the 14mm side motor mount bolts?

 

adjusting preload does affect the length of it, so that has to be adjusted after wards

 

Yea, adjusting the preload. However OP only wanted to adjust the length.

When adjusting the length (silver nut) there is no need to touch preload.

 

Hi yall, thanks for the input.

Does anyone have the torque specs for the side engine mount as well as the shock tower bolts? I have searched and searched but can't seem to find it.

Thanks in advance.

 

Im at work but I can check the shop manual when I get home.

There was a download link posted in another thread for the shop manual though. You should really get that if you plan on doing work to your car.