I have looked at various threads on this and would like some clarifacation on this.
I don't want a bunch of people aurguing if and why it's a bad idea,just how to do it properly.
I have read about using a 8k and a 2k resistor but,would like to see pics.
I only have a clp but,will be installing a types motor so I have nothing myself to look at yet.
I know cleancl and allmotor know about this.
My reason I want to remove it is because I dont want something restricting my cfm's or heat transfered to the intake system threw the vsa coolent lines+ droping a couple lbs. never hurts.
Thanks to anyone who can show me the light.

And PLEASE if you are going to cry babie about removing a safty feature or the minimal gains don't waste your breath.
All positive leads appreciated.

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/vsa-bypass-resisors-475649/

^^^use the resistors listed in this thread with the radioshack links listed above...

Closest thing to a diy is:

Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
Hey, so I figured out how to keep the VSA light soff.
You need a 8K resistor and a 2K resistor. The 8K resistor goes between the center pin and gnd. The 2K resistor goes between the center pin and VCC. This is on the sensor.
On the motor-side, just put a 10W 3-ohm resistor between the two pins.
Now... if you do plan on racing... turn the VSA off by pushing the button because I am not sure what happens if the VSA tries to do its thing!

you will need either a 6-speed intake CAI or more piping on your auto CAI to equal the length of one.

Notes: don't disconnect anything connected to the vsa until you have these resistors in place. Once you do the VSA delete always drive with VSA off b/c the engine will all but stall out.

Best DIY I could find on the entire forum.

 

Apreciate the lead but, I have read all threads on this topic here on azine.
I'm actually looking for the pictures of said mod.
And being atleast a few years old mod someone has to have pics of exactally how and where resistors were installed.

 

a friend of mine is going to tell me which resistors to get for this tonight. tomorrow if the weather is good im going to attempt to do this and make a write up with some pictures.

 

just between the wiring on the plugs at the vsa should do it, or even at the vsa module itself for a cleaner delete install (or the easier way, just leave the vsa tb connected, but bolted somewhere out of the way though)

 

Do a good job with your DIY so we can get it added to the cl infomation thread.
It's not in there and I think it does.
Hook it up man.

 

you got it man. workin on it

 

i cut the leads before the harness and wired em in there ... btw ... when the VSA trys to do its thing( if you didnt turn it off ) you get the VSA and the ! lights lite up untill next restart ... no CEL....oh ya i remember i couldnt find exact v resistors so you know close enough works

 

have never seen you around, with being a mod and all

 

Can you post a couple pics that we could you for reference ?

 

cars long gone ... looking at getting another though ....

 

close enough works.......i hope so. still havent gotten the resistors yet. 12 hour night shifts suck so hopefully ill have some progress tomorrow. sorry guys

 

Take your time.Just don't forget.
It will be a good piece of info to have.

 

im not forgetting. that thing is ugly as hell and i want it gone!

 

i did my delete today( or part of it, since im waiting on the intake), with the resistors. I have no lights on or anything so im guessing it worked. its post 12 with pics.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...6#post12453816

 

good job ... i just cut my plug off but ur way is even better

 

Thanks alot

 

just some guy used to hve a slow cls

 

damn, he beat me to it! i have to update the pics in my album

 

Post them here too.
It's good to have this all stuff together.

 

I did this mod today, wired in the resisters and it turned out perfect. The VSA unit weighs about four pounds, it is a pretty heavy lump of steel heating the intake air IMO. I substituted in a five inch long piece of 3" diameter aluminum pipe and an extra silicone connector thing with the hose clamps and all is good. The Radio shack parts were $4.00, the pipe and connector and clamps were another $5, that's it.

 

I bet the car feels a little better the faster you go now.
The plate and shaft will restrict flow durring high rpm's.