Imrc !!!
Imrc !!!
Had a few of you tell me to check my IMRC cause my car felt slow , turns out it wasn't working .
Zip tied it for now & wow , huge difference , car pulls again & sounds different too .
Hmm now i need a rematch with my buddies cl6 lol
Zip tied it for now & wow , huge difference , car pulls again & sounds different too .
Hmm now i need a rematch with my buddies cl6 lol
Heres a video for others that might not know what this part is and how to tell if its functioning properly
Properly:
Improperly:
Great stuff! I need to check mine this weekend. How much did the part cost you? Did you do it yourself? Difficulty of fixing?
Heres a video for others that might not know what this part is and how to tell if its functioning properly
Properly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmvYTt9YLak
Improperly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T64kfrM74uo
Heres a video for others that might not know what this part is and how to tell if its functioning properly
Properly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmvYTt9YLak
Improperly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T64kfrM74uo
Seriously? lol its not losing much tq, and the gains seen by having it open FAR outweigh having it closed...he did mention it was for the time being anyway. Id be surprised if he actually even noticed the fuel difference b/c when I ran my car w butterflies open i didn't notice the difference, half of it was highway.
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He might not be burning more fuel but there's probably a loss of power at the bottom end when the IMRC is supposed to stay closed, below 3800 RPM. If the OP is feeling enhanced performance, it's at the top end when the IMRC is supposed to open (above 3800 RPM).
did i say he should have them closed?
I'd likely leave mine open as well if i were in the same situation because I like acceleration.
but knowing that i would be losing low end pwr it would motivate me to fix it asap... which you should OP
I'd likely leave mine open as well if i were in the same situation because I like acceleration.
but knowing that i would be losing low end pwr it would motivate me to fix it asap... which you should OP
By only pointing out two negative things in your post what did you think you were implying to the OP?
implying is not the same as telling someone what to do. and like i said, it was to educate him about the situation, not to tell him he's wrong.
cause he never talked about replacing it, therefore he should know what its function is and the pros/cons of keeping it open/closed. the decision is his to make.
anyways im done..
hope u do get her fixed OP
cause he never talked about replacing it, therefore he should know what its function is and the pros/cons of keeping it open/closed. the decision is his to make.
anyways im done..
hope u do get her fixed OP
I checked mine a couple weeks ago. it wasn't working. Then bought one from a junk yard installed it. Pulls a lot harder now but I came to a stop light ran it through the gears full throttle..... now the clutch is slipping.
Who knows how long it's been broken , I can't help but to have the butterfly open , feels like a whole different car .
When it's close feels like I'm driving a stock non type s lol
When it's close feels like I'm driving a stock non type s lol
I did fwy pulls , dead stop , & rolls , with it being open huge difference , car jumps again , as before it'd just ease into power
For those having trouble finding this part:
The IMRC is on the back of the intake manifold on type-s models only. Auto and 6mt are the same.
In the parts catalog its known as the "bypass valve actuator"
Part # is 17151-pfw-j02. Msrp $127
The IMRC is on the back of the intake manifold on type-s models only. Auto and 6mt are the same.
In the parts catalog its known as the "bypass valve actuator"
Part # is 17151-pfw-j02. Msrp $127
It can't just be opened up and fixed ? Has to be replaced ?
you know it's worth a shot to pull it apart for sure..
it's probably just an electro magnet in there which when given voltage magnetizes the lever inside the assembly that actuates the butterfly valves. it may be a visible flaw in there but it likely won't be.. so there's no telling..
but i'd pull it apart if it were my car.
it's probably just an electro magnet in there which when given voltage magnetizes the lever inside the assembly that actuates the butterfly valves. it may be a visible flaw in there but it likely won't be.. so there's no telling..
but i'd pull it apart if it were my car.
you know it's worth a shot to pull it apart for sure..
it's probably just an electro magnet in there which when given voltage magnetizes the lever inside the assembly that actuates the butterfly valves. it may be a visible flaw in there but it likely won't be.. so there's no telling..
but i'd pull it apart if it were my car.
it's probably just an electro magnet in there which when given voltage magnetizes the lever inside the assembly that actuates the butterfly valves. it may be a visible flaw in there but it likely won't be.. so there's no telling..
but i'd pull it apart if it were my car.
you know it's worth a shot to pull it apart for sure..
it's probably just an electro magnet in there which when given voltage magnetizes the lever inside the assembly that actuates the butterfly valves. it may be a visible flaw in there but it likely won't be.. so there's no telling..
but i'd pull it apart if it were my car.
it's probably just an electro magnet in there which when given voltage magnetizes the lever inside the assembly that actuates the butterfly valves. it may be a visible flaw in there but it likely won't be.. so there's no telling..
but i'd pull it apart if it were my car.
long and short it has one big plastic gear... on mine the first two or three teeth had broken off so the motor fires at 3800 but nothing to catch onto to open the butterflies ...
so i shimmed mine to the point of good teeth to grab onto ...
id say this can be easily done with out opening the actuator by adjusting that throttle type cable to put tension on the gear to the point youre starting to open the butterfly manually if that makes any sense ...in addition i think the slack in the cable might account for it breaking in the first place ...it starts to yank it open with no tension then as soon as the slack is removed from the cable it slams on the teeth of the gear ... after my initial repair it never broke again
Last edited by typeR; Mar 7, 2012 at 12:09 PM.
It's nothing I notice in low end , if anything it's faster lol. With it being closed the whole car just feels slow , low, mid , high . Sucks
I did fwy pulls , dead stop , & rolls , with it being open huge difference , car jumps again , as before it'd just ease into power
I did fwy pulls , dead stop , & rolls , with it being open huge difference , car jumps again , as before it'd just ease into power
first try my fix mentioned in the post before this
well what youre feeling is the huge difference between the now big loss in low end power to the renewed gain in your top end ...id say this if you drive alot above 3800 by all means leave it open but if not you are loosing a ton on the low end ... my 3.5 couldnt even spin the tires from a stop ...
first try my fix mentioned in the post before this
first try my fix mentioned in the post before this
I don't notice low end power loss , if you want power you're going to be over 3800 RPMS anways , so makes no biggy to me , I prefer it open til I buy a new one
its only because its got a lot more power...find me a truck car whatever with 400-1000lbs of tq and less than 250 whp yes WHEEL HORSE POWEERRRRR is what gets you down the track. IF a car/truck had 1000hp and 100lbs of tq u think it would be slow? NO it wouldnt! but a tractor or truck with 200-300 whp and 600-800lbs of tq is a 14 sec run at best... Reverse those numbers 800whp and 200-300lbs of tq.... which one is going to be faster???? seriously, lets not be naive.
A very good example would be to compare the LT1 Corvette with the last of the L98 Vettes, built in 1991. Figures as follows:
Engine Peak HP @ RPM Peak Torque @ RPM
------ ------------- -----------------
L98 250 @ 4000 340 @ 3200
LT1 300 @ 5000 340 @ 3600
The cars are geared identically, and car weights are within a few pounds, so it's a good comparison.
First, each car will push you back in the seat (the fun factor) with the same authority - at least at or near peak torque in each gear. One will tend to *feel* about as fast as the other to the driver, but the LT1 will actually be significantly faster than the L98
Engine Peak HP @ RPM Peak Torque @ RPM
------ ------------- -----------------
L98 250 @ 4000 340 @ 3200
LT1 300 @ 5000 340 @ 3600
The cars are geared identically, and car weights are within a few pounds, so it's a good comparison.
First, each car will push you back in the seat (the fun factor) with the same authority - at least at or near peak torque in each gear. One will tend to *feel* about as fast as the other to the driver, but the LT1 will actually be significantly faster than the L98
best way to imagine it is
TQ is what u can bench press
HP is how fast u can run.
u need both... but it all depends on gearing, weight, traction.. and what the car is going to be doing.
there really is no one right answer..
03cls that is not a good example (no offence) if the numbers were reversed... i.e one had 250HP and 340TQ and the other had 340HP and 250TQ it's be a decent comparison.
but then u can argue the gear ratios are better for one set-up than the other.. u can also argue the that maybe one has more use of the power (tq or hp) due to the avg rev range you;d be in in a race.
then u could argue that in a drag race ur at peak revs, where in a circuit race you need the entire power band to be good..
so u'll never truely have a fair comparison
TQ is what u can bench press
HP is how fast u can run.
u need both... but it all depends on gearing, weight, traction.. and what the car is going to be doing.
there really is no one right answer..
03cls that is not a good example (no offence) if the numbers were reversed... i.e one had 250HP and 340TQ and the other had 340HP and 250TQ it's be a decent comparison.
but then u can argue the gear ratios are better for one set-up than the other.. u can also argue the that maybe one has more use of the power (tq or hp) due to the avg rev range you;d be in in a race.
then u could argue that in a drag race ur at peak revs, where in a circuit race you need the entire power band to be good..
so u'll never truely have a fair comparison
Last edited by CL-S progression 01; Mar 13, 2012 at 05:05 PM.
WTF. This has got to be the most retarded argument Ive read on this site. Horsepower is a measurement of torque. Plain and simple.
For the more complicated folks:

Thats the equation for horsepower. P is power (measured in horsepower), T is torque (in ft-lbs), F is rotations per minute. 5252 is a constant.
Every single dynamometer measures the torque of an engine. The computer then runs that equation and plots the horsepower graph. You cannot get horsepower without torque.
For the more complicated folks:

Thats the equation for horsepower. P is power (measured in horsepower), T is torque (in ft-lbs), F is rotations per minute. 5252 is a constant.
Every single dynamometer measures the torque of an engine. The computer then runs that equation and plots the horsepower graph. You cannot get horsepower without torque.
Last edited by civicdrivr; Mar 14, 2012 at 01:40 PM.
WTF. This has got to be the most retarded argument Ive read on this site. Horsepower is a measurement of torque. Plain and simple.
For the more complicated folks:

Thats the equation for horsepower. P is power (measured in horsepower), T is torque (in ft-lbs), F is rotations per minute. 5252 is a constant.
Every single dynamometer measures the torque of an engine. The computer then runs that equation and plots the horsepower graph. You cannot get horsepower without torque.
For the more complicated folks:

Thats the equation for horsepower. P is power (measured in horsepower), T is torque (in ft-lbs), F is rotations per minute. 5252 is a constant.
Every single dynamometer measures the torque of an engine. The computer then runs that equation and plots the horsepower graph. You cannot get horsepower without torque.
omg, this goes without saying. The argument was about whp vs tq on dyno specs.
I cannot stand when people try to make the argument that their car has more tq than mine therefore faster.

They are measured differently, thats why there is power...ya ya ya anyone who understands hp/tq knows hp = tq x rpm/5252 WE all can agree on that. Horsepower is defined as the amount of energy required to lift 550 pounds, one foot, in one second. From this definition you can see that the components of horsepower are force, distance and time. Distance and time are self-explanatory but force, specifically a twisting force, is what torque is all about.
WHP>TQ straight line speed all things like weight and gearing being equal =)
I really apologize to the OP for hacking the thread lol hope I atleast entertained a few ppl!!
Have a great day all.
They are measured differently, thats why there is power...ya ya ya anyone who understands hp/tq knows hp = tq x rpm/5252 WE all can agree on that. Horsepower is defined as the amount of energy required to lift 550 pounds, one foot, in one second. From this definition you can see that the components of horsepower are force, distance and time. Distance and time are self-explanatory but force, specifically a twisting force, is what torque is all about.

First of all, from a driver's perspective, torque, to use the vernacular, RULES :-). Any given car, in any given gear, will accelerate at a rate that *exactly* matches its torque curve (allowing for increased air and rolling resistance as speeds climb). Another way of saying this is that a car will accelerate hardest at its torque peak in any given gear, and will not accelerate as hard below that peak, or above it. Torque is the only thing that a driver feels, and horsepower is just sort of an esoteric measurement in that context. 300 foot pounds of torque will accelerate you just as hard at 2000 rpm as it would if you were making that torque at 4000 rpm in the same gear, yet, per the formula, the horsepower would be *double* at 4000 rpm. Therefore, horsepower isn't particularly meaningful from a driver's perspective, and the two numbers only get friendly at 5252 rpm, where horsepower and torque always come out the same.
First, each car will push you back in the seat (the fun factor) with the same authority - at least at or near peak torque in each gear. One will tend to *feel* about as fast as the other to the driver, but the LT1 will actually be significantly faster than the L98, even though it won't pull any harder. If we mess about with the formula, we can begin to discover exactly *why* the LT1 is faster. Here's another slice at that formula:
Horsepower * 5252
---------------------- = Torque
RPM
If we plug some numbers in, we can see that the L98 is making 328 foot pounds of torque at its power peak (250 hp @ 4000), and we can infer that it cannot be making any more than 263 pound feet of torque at 5000 rpm, or it would be making more than 250 hp at that engine speed, and would be so rated. In actuality, the L98 is probably making no more than around 210 pound feet or so at 5000 rpm, and anybody who owns one would shift it at around 46-4700 rpm, because more torque is available at the drive wheels in the next gear at that point.
On the other hand, the LT1 is fairly happy making 315 pound feet at 5000 rpm, and is happy right up to its mid 5s redline.
So, in a drag race, the cars would launch more or less together. The L98 might have a slight advantage due to its peak torque occurring a little earlier in the rev range, but that is debatable, since the LT1 has a wider, flatter curve (again pretty much by definition, looking at the figures). From somewhere in the mid range and up, however, theLT1 would begin to pull away. Where the L98 has to shift to second (and throw away torque multiplication for speed), the LT1 still has around another 1000 rpm to go in first, and thus begins to widen its lead, more and more as the speeds climb. As long as the revs are high, the LT1, by definition, has an advantage.
Horsepower * 5252
---------------------- = Torque
RPM
If we plug some numbers in, we can see that the L98 is making 328 foot pounds of torque at its power peak (250 hp @ 4000), and we can infer that it cannot be making any more than 263 pound feet of torque at 5000 rpm, or it would be making more than 250 hp at that engine speed, and would be so rated. In actuality, the L98 is probably making no more than around 210 pound feet or so at 5000 rpm, and anybody who owns one would shift it at around 46-4700 rpm, because more torque is available at the drive wheels in the next gear at that point.
On the other hand, the LT1 is fairly happy making 315 pound feet at 5000 rpm, and is happy right up to its mid 5s redline.
So, in a drag race, the cars would launch more or less together. The L98 might have a slight advantage due to its peak torque occurring a little earlier in the rev range, but that is debatable, since the LT1 has a wider, flatter curve (again pretty much by definition, looking at the figures). From somewhere in the mid range and up, however, theLT1 would begin to pull away. Where the L98 has to shift to second (and throw away torque multiplication for speed), the LT1 still has around another 1000 rpm to go in first, and thus begins to widen its lead, more and more as the speeds climb. As long as the revs are high, the LT1, by definition, has an advantage.






