If you think your CL-S has lost power....
#1
AZ O.G NoOldManVetteOwner
Thread Starter
If you think your CL-S has lost power....
Check your coils. My mechanic was inspecting my TL-S w/ 76K miles and noticed that one of my coils was bad and was causing a misfire on one of my cylinders! I wasn't even aware of this. So here's something else to check other than the infamous "bad actuator."
#3
AZ O.G NoOldManVetteOwner
Thread Starter
I should clarify my orignal post. The coil was not putting out the full wattage and hence did not through a check engine light code. Normally, a completely bad coil would through a CEL code. But since there is power, but not full power going to the cylinder, it did not through a code.
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#8
You might want to run a bottle of Techron through your tank once in a while. I did it for the first time after about 35k and it make a big difference. Now I do it every 10k miles or so.
#9
Former Sponsor
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OMG, I had his happen a whiel back, seems like it happened at the same time that i installed an AEM intake. I was getting smoked by old ass nissans and beater cars on the road. car felt like it was literally running on 4 cyliders. Took it back to the shop, told them to put the OEM intake in and they found the problem. crazy.
#11
Originally Posted by rondog
OMG, I had his happen a whiel back, seems like it happened at the same time that i installed an AEM intake. I was getting smoked by old ass nissans and beater cars on the road. car felt like it was literally running on 4 cyliders. Took it back to the shop, told them to put the OEM intake in and they found the problem. crazy.
#13
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Originally Posted by mt6forlife
Yeah but it puts a nice smile on your face when you get it fixed. Mine went out and it took a while to convince them to fix it. Dealer acted like they'd never seen one go. But they couldn't explain why the dyno prinout showed the torque totally taking a shit after 3800 rpm.
I could see the bypass valve actuator causing a problem like that but not a coil pack. Think about it, if you're misfiring in 1 cylinder, the power loss will be across the entire band not just at a certain RPM.
We were responding to his same post on the TL board. I'm still not convinced that the coil pack was bad/going bad. Our cars kick out CELs like nobody's business. I can't imagine a misfiring coil pack/plug wouldn't do it. We get CELs when we don't put the gas cap on tight enough.
#15
Not Asian
Originally Posted by Chr8808
I think you can check the coils with a multi-meter. There might be specs in the helms manual (i dont have one so i cant check). They had this in the Legend manual on how to check the coils so assume there should be the same for the CL.
#18
Adventurist.
Originally Posted by shastsmae
can u get any kind of aftermarket coils?
#19
Adventurist.
Use a multimeter to check coil packs.
I still don't believe that this could be a problem. The only way a coil pack will go bad if the seal is inadequate, allowing water to enter the coils and cause a short. This would lead to an entire slew of problems. A bad coil pack will DEFINITELY throw a CEL code since it is part of the criteria in all OBDII+ cars. No code, no bad coil pack.
I still don't believe that this could be a problem. The only way a coil pack will go bad if the seal is inadequate, allowing water to enter the coils and cause a short. This would lead to an entire slew of problems. A bad coil pack will DEFINITELY throw a CEL code since it is part of the criteria in all OBDII+ cars. No code, no bad coil pack.
#21
Originally Posted by R J Poseidon 6
What is it w/this Techron stuff? What's the advantage?
#22
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I took my car into the dealer because of my check engine light being on. They told me its a misfiring code, they just reset it. I asked them why they arent replacing the coils he told me the owners manual says you need to reset it and drive it. If it doesnt occur then theres no need. Damn dealers!
#23
Originally Posted by peakpowermotoring
I took my car into the dealer because of my check engine light being on. They told me its a misfiring code, they just reset it. I asked them why they arent replacing the coils he told me the owners manual says you need to reset it and drive it. If it doesnt occur then theres no need. Damn dealers!
#24
~HondaF1~
Originally Posted by mt6forlife
Removes deposits inside the engine. Chevron gas has some in it, but not enough really matter from what I've been told. You get a bottle of Techron and add it to a tank of gas every once in a while to remove deposits. It restored a lot of lost power in my car the first time I did it.
So the Techron from Wal-Mart is not just 93 from Chevron?
#25
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Originally Posted by mt6forlife
Well we are dealing with computers here. You wouldn't reformat your hard drive and reload Windows because it blue screen'ed once, would you?
#26
Suzuka Master
Just some more thoughts...
Originally Posted by NiteQwill
Use a multimeter to check coil packs.
I still don't believe that this could be a problem. The only way a coil pack will go bad if the seal is inadequate, allowing water to enter the coils and cause a short. This would lead to an entire slew of problems. A bad coil pack will DEFINITELY throw a CEL code since it is part of the criteria in all OBDII+ cars. No code, no bad coil pack.
I still don't believe that this could be a problem. The only way a coil pack will go bad if the seal is inadequate, allowing water to enter the coils and cause a short. This would lead to an entire slew of problems. A bad coil pack will DEFINITELY throw a CEL code since it is part of the criteria in all OBDII+ cars. No code, no bad coil pack.
Using a multimeter may not provide all of the information that you need to determine if the coil pack is actually faulty.
It's possible to have a shorted turn, intermittent connection, or other problem that will not show up with a multimeter.
If had many coils (over 20 years worth) that did not perform well and some passed the ohmmeter/multimeter test. That's not to say that I did not find bad coils with open primary and secondaries when testing their resistance of the coils (I believe there are additional components in our coils – at least according to the service manual. A scope with proper high voltage probe/adaptor could easily provide information from the coil pack’s spark output to show a characteristic pattern that could show low volts, high volts, or a shorted winding. An intermittent problem could still get by. If the coil pack is "marginal", it is possible to get a week spark (shorted winding) and or problems related to poor spark voltage, rise time, and or peak current. A helpful test would be to get (or borrow) a know good one and install it in place of the "suspect" unit. If the problem goes away, the problem is clearly the coil pack (this presumes that the coil driver module is not bad).
And, yes, you generally will get a misfire code related to a particular cylinder and it is generally going to be the result of either: spark or fuel. In one case, the injector could be dirty, dead, or faulty -- and, in the other case, the coil pack could be the problem.
One final thought would relate to the coil driver/module (not to be confused with the actual coil pack sitting on the plug). A multimeter -- or scope -- could verify a good "pulse" to the primary side of the driver coil.
YMMV
#27
Adventurist.
Originally Posted by EricL
Using a multimeter may not provide all of the information that you need to determine if the coil pack is actually faulty.
It's possible to have a shorted turn, intermittent connection, or other problem that will not show up with a multimeter.
If had many coils (over 20 years worth) that did not perform well and some passed the ohmmeter/multimeter test. That's not to say that I did not find bad coils with open primary and secondaries when testing their resistance of the coils (I believe there are additional components in our coils – at least according to the service manual. A scope with proper high voltage probe/adaptor could easily provide information from the coil pack’s spark output to show a characteristic pattern that could show low volts, high volts, or a shorted winding. An intermittent problem could still get by. If the coil pack is "marginal", it is possible to get a week spark (shorted winding) and or problems related to poor spark voltage, rise time, and or peak current. A helpful test would be to get (or borrow) a know good one and install it in place of the "suspect" unit. If the problem goes away, the problem is clearly the coil pack (this presumes that the coil driver module is not bad).
And, yes, you generally will get a misfire code related to a particular cylinder and it is generally going to be the result of either: spark or fuel. In one case, the injector could be dirty, dead, or faulty -- and, in the other case, the coil pack could be the problem.
One final thought would relate to the coil driver/module (not to be confused with the actual coil pack sitting on the plug). A multimeter -- or scope -- could verify a good "pulse" to the primary side of the driver coil.
YMMV
It's possible to have a shorted turn, intermittent connection, or other problem that will not show up with a multimeter.
If had many coils (over 20 years worth) that did not perform well and some passed the ohmmeter/multimeter test. That's not to say that I did not find bad coils with open primary and secondaries when testing their resistance of the coils (I believe there are additional components in our coils – at least according to the service manual. A scope with proper high voltage probe/adaptor could easily provide information from the coil pack’s spark output to show a characteristic pattern that could show low volts, high volts, or a shorted winding. An intermittent problem could still get by. If the coil pack is "marginal", it is possible to get a week spark (shorted winding) and or problems related to poor spark voltage, rise time, and or peak current. A helpful test would be to get (or borrow) a know good one and install it in place of the "suspect" unit. If the problem goes away, the problem is clearly the coil pack (this presumes that the coil driver module is not bad).
And, yes, you generally will get a misfire code related to a particular cylinder and it is generally going to be the result of either: spark or fuel. In one case, the injector could be dirty, dead, or faulty -- and, in the other case, the coil pack could be the problem.
One final thought would relate to the coil driver/module (not to be confused with the actual coil pack sitting on the plug). A multimeter -- or scope -- could verify a good "pulse" to the primary side of the driver coil.
YMMV
Always in to put in the good word, the final, absolute word...
#28
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by NiteQwill
Holy shit! Eric, where have you been man?
Always in to put in the good word, the final, absolute word...
Always in to put in the good word, the final, absolute word...
A way too long story....
Nice to see you around!
#29
Adventurist.
Originally Posted by EricL
A way too long story....
Nice to see you around!
Nice to see you around!
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