so i swapped in some spare heads from an 03 cl-s onto my 03 cl-s 6spd

i swapped over the front cam and the sensors. but the auto head had an extra connector coming out of it. its a "thermo switch" which the 6sds dont have. and i put on the p2r egr block off plate. im throwing codes, all for tps and idle related. the last code was P1519, manf cntrl veh. spd. idle speed control auxiliary inputs. i swapped throttle bodies with my tl-s and same thing (tl runs normal after swap)
all hoses are connected, did teh timing belt and double check it, all good, car runs strong when u get on the throttle. just at idle it runs like it has a bad iac valve/ vacuum leak.
heres a video of what it does



any ideas of what it can be? all electrical connectors are plugged it (except for the egr)

 

picture of said connector please, but also you might have a vacuum leak maybe like how civic had, with the fuel injector base


edit also where is that connector, near the t/belt

 

and that surgeing might be caused by the idle valve fully closing when the idle goes high, then the ecu is preempting the idle coming down so it opens it back up, then the idle goes right back up to like 2k, then it repeats the cycle
and the root cause could easily be a vacuum leak, causing the initial high idle

 

so first thing to do is disconnect the idle valve and see how it idles then, (it has a good chance of being a high idle, but at least it will be stable idle though), or even put your hand completely (or finger over the inlet for the iacv), so it completely chokes out the tb, and see if the engine dies out, which it should normally

 

also did you put a new gasket (old one might still be alright though, idk) when you installed that egr block off plate, cause if not you could easily have a vacuum leak there

and maybe put that valve on till you get it fully running right, then start screwing with things like that, so you know you have a correctly running engine to start with

 

ALL gaskets are new, except for the lower base fuel injectors/ intake manifold runners.

im gonna put the egr back in tomorrow and see what happens.

when i unplug the iacv, it idle is at 1400-1600rpm and sounds like i got an aggressive came.

 

#8 (top middle of pic)


autos have that sensor and manuals dont

 

i think that might be your issue right there, shit i had a Saturn the other day that would idle at like 2k, and plugging the tb/iacv had absolutely NO effect on it, lol, no that was a major vacuum leak, the manifold gasket had literally been sucked out of position (in like 60k too lol), so it was just letting in all this unmetered air into the manifold, put a new gasket on, and it literally idled perfect afterwards

and you say 1400-1600 rpm, but otherwise the idle is stable though now , then yeah i think the iacv was just exaggerating the issue of the leak, and for all the ecu knows is the iacv is not responding correctly so it threw a code for it, remember it is only as good as it is programmed, and that is what it is thinking the issue is

as far as finding that leak, you more then likely have quite a loud sucking noise that you can hear, so just follow the noise to the source with a stethoscope or something, you could also try spraying carb spray along all the gasket seams, and see how the engine responds, and once it changes you found the leak, but the most efficiant way, and professionally would be with a smoke machine though (like the ones for evap system testing) and where ever the smoke comes out NOT EXPECTED (which should basically be nowhere other then tail pipe and the intake before the air filter,[ i have found a leak on a MAF car, that was before the tb, but because the it depends on preciosly metered air it was causing some issues [the intake tube was not sealing properly btw, cause the clamp was maxed out as far as being fully tightened, so it was not sealing properly]) (brake booster tube is a good place to inject btw), and you found it


thought it was an additonal cam sensor or something, but considering the manual has no input for that sensor, it should not matter if it is disconnected, so i would almost just chop off the wires of that sensor and call it good (so it stays sealed for the oil purposes)

 

ill get new gaskets and see if that helps out, but other than the idle. the runs great and hard

 

and as far as a MAF sensor car, the reason it is so important for the entire intake tract to be fully sealed up properly, once after the sensor, but it is the same thing though with a SWAG (map sensor based) car with after the tb being perfectly sealed up (if you have just noticed, part of the reason of why i like to to use [and say to] new gaskets whenever they are removed, even though people have said that they have successfully reused said gaskets before though)

 

vacuum leaks don't affect cars off idle as much as it does at idle though, so the reason for no issues otherwise (remember that leak is an alot smaller portion of the total amount of air going through the motor once the throttle is opened up, compared to a fully closed tb)

 

i know, either bad gasket or i didnt tighten the bolts down. lol. which im pretty sure i did bc i went over everything twice then a friend looked it over

 

hey that piece of shit saturn manifold had been tightened at the factory when it was new, and it still had been sucked out of place by 60k miles

but yeah old gaskets can bite you in the ass, so better safe then sorry/redoing it again

also remember to look at them closely, to see if they are cracked like how they had done on civic's

 

and the stethoscope wont work. exhaust is way to loud and intake is loud. be lucky to hear my self speak lol

 

Spray carb cleaner around the intake manifold. Im pretty sure thats a vacuum leak. This was the culprit of mine:

 

cracked? or bad seal

 

Cracked. It slowly got worse. We noticed it when we installed the new manifold.

 

ok. ill look mine over carefully tomorrow

 

especially considering that alot of work had just been done, aka the heads

especially as the vibrations, heat cycles and such slowly extend and widen that crack, just gets worse and worse

and who knows rajca, might have slightly tapped the runner on the other one when putting on the second head and cracked it then , since it is easier to install them with the heads off the car, but gotta be more careful though

 

its quite easy to remove and install them with teh heads on. just need to know the trick. but yea, it might have a crack on it. ill see tomorrow

 

still easier to do with the heads off though , but yeah once you get one off, the other one is no issue though, it's just a matter of getting that first one off lol

 

Mine cracked because I used bolts too long, as long as the gasket is doing it's job it should not be leaking.

Civic how did yours crack ?
Ported too much and made too thin ?
Dropped ?

 

Stress Im assuming. I never dropped it, and it cracked about 5 months before it was ported out.

 

well heres the problem

 

Thats the same fucking cylinder that cracked on mine.

Either we're overtightening it or the mold Honda uses isn't that great. Im thinking we're overtightening it.

 

or hitting it accidentally, when putting on other things, but yeah that little vacuum leak is ABSOLUTLY fixable

or maybe it is because you are using too long of bolts when you put on those manifold spacers, so the bolt bottoms out, which then starts that crack going
cause on your's civic it looks like it had started at the bolt hole; then rajca, it might have also started there too idk, but a better picture is kinda needed though of the crack line and such

 

It started just below the bolt hole on mine. And went most of the way around the runner. Im pretty sure it was from overtightening. I found out a few months ago that the torque wrench i was using was out of spec. So having the thermo-gaskets on there gave it a bit of cushion to apply some more torque, resulting in un-even tightening and the eventual crack.

Just a guess though.

 

torque wrench? i use the good n tight method. lol

teh bolts arent too long. i made sure, i guess ive over tightened it too many times. o well. cars running strong now. now to replace the clutch and spray the shit out of the engine

 

same here LMFAO

 

I have three torque wrenches. If Im working on anything I use them, especially if its anything drivetrain related.

 

i used a tq wrench on the heads only. thats about it

 

Time to break out the scotch tape.

 

its duck tape lol. but i had a spare so its all good. car runs strong. just need to replace the clutch

 

JB WELD ftmfw

 

about the same here, also on lug nuts too, but even then that is normally a torque stick with the impact , certain vehicles i will try to use a torque wrench on, and that is mainly because the vehicle (:cough: Toyota tundra :cough: ) brakes are easily warped to the point they actually had redesign the brake system to try and minimize the issues people were having

 

our brakes warp easily too if u dont torque down the wheels in the correct pattern and tq.

jb well is great. but i tossed the broken runner.

 

not as easy as the tundra though, they actually had a recall for it (but i think the customer might have had to pay some though), cause they where warping on so many of them

 

and lets see, i just looked it up, and it had 5 tsbs on the brakes (with 4 of them being for the fronts because of multiple revisions) before 2005 (they came out in 2000 btw)

actually the tsb had come out in like late 2002, then revised again to include more years