Icebox install question...
Originally posted by sidemarker
i think once you remove the VSA tube and breather tube you will have some coolant come out so be careful!
sidemarker
i think once you remove the VSA tube and breather tube you will have some coolant come out so be careful!
sidemarker
Just trying to get my steps right before I install.
i just installed my icebox and no coolant came out. again, i have no idea what they mean about flushing/bleeding the coolant system. this is the 3rd intake i have installed on my cl-s and i have never had a problem.
Yes, you should bleed the air out of your system after you change the tubing. A large air bubble in the system is not going to be effective to cool the cylinder/block.
It's a pretty easy process - at least my poor man's version of it. If you are really anal you may want to do a complete coolant drain/refill procedure, but this'll do.
First off, you will lose some coolant when changing the tubing, so buy some Honda Type II coolant (premixed) before you install the IceBox as you may need to top off the system. It's good to have a jug of this in the garage as it is. Now is the time to buy some.
After the install you'll want to get the air bubbles out of the system. Remove the cap to the radiator. Turn on car and warm it up in idle about 10 minutes (IIRC, I think technically it's warmed after the radiator fan cycles twice). Turn up heater to max (IIRC, set auto to 90ºF) to open the heater core so the coolant circulates freely. During this process tap/jiggle the the coolant hoses (especially the large upper one) to move the larger bubbles to the top. Don't hurt your fingers -- be careful. You should see several large bubbles percolate through the opening that the cap goes too.
After a few minutes of this the bubbles should stop. You have now bled your system of bubbles. Top off any lost fluid in the radiator or reservoir, put on cap, turn off engine.
Enjoy the IceBox.
It's a pretty easy process - at least my poor man's version of it. If you are really anal you may want to do a complete coolant drain/refill procedure, but this'll do.
First off, you will lose some coolant when changing the tubing, so buy some Honda Type II coolant (premixed) before you install the IceBox as you may need to top off the system. It's good to have a jug of this in the garage as it is. Now is the time to buy some.
After the install you'll want to get the air bubbles out of the system. Remove the cap to the radiator. Turn on car and warm it up in idle about 10 minutes (IIRC, I think technically it's warmed after the radiator fan cycles twice). Turn up heater to max (IIRC, set auto to 90ºF) to open the heater core so the coolant circulates freely. During this process tap/jiggle the the coolant hoses (especially the large upper one) to move the larger bubbles to the top. Don't hurt your fingers -- be careful. You should see several large bubbles percolate through the opening that the cap goes too.
After a few minutes of this the bubbles should stop. You have now bled your system of bubbles. Top off any lost fluid in the radiator or reservoir, put on cap, turn off engine.
Enjoy the IceBox.
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Just to be sure:
After the install you'll want to get the air bubbles out of the system. Remove the cap to the radiator. Turn on car and warm it up in idle about 10 minutes (IIRC, I think technically it's warmed after the radiator fan cycles twice). Turn up heater to max (IIRC, set auto to 90ºF) to open the heater core so the coolant circulates freely. During this process tap/jiggle the the coolant hoses (especially the large upper one) to move the larger bubbles to the top. Don't hurt your fingers -- be careful. You should see several large bubbles percolate through the opening that the cap goes too.
No, I see no reason in real life as to why this is even suggested. I didn't do it either when I put in the low temp t-stat & fan switch. This is the only car I have ever heard of doing such a thing.
Originally posted by fuzzy02CLS
I didn't do it either when I put in the low temp t-stat & fan switch. This is the only car I have ever heard of doing such a thing.
I didn't do it either when I put in the low temp t-stat & fan switch. This is the only car I have ever heard of doing such a thing.
Count your self lucky that you are not experiencing any cooling issue; or maybe your system is not operating at peak efficiency.
Originally posted by fuzzy02CLS
...This is the only car I have ever heard of doing such a thing.
...This is the only car I have ever heard of doing such a thing.
Burping the coolant system seems like a pretty common process to me. In fact bleeding our system is easier then some other cars. Some cars have bleeder valves on the radiator that need to be open and purged during the process making it slightly more complicated.
When I did this after installing the IceBox, I saw several decent sized bubbles percolate out -- I'd hate to have those locked in some of the finer tubing of the cooling system.
MattG. I would use the Honda coolant. A couple of years ago there was a high percentage of water pump failures w/gold wing motorcycles. Cause was traced to silicates (think sand and glass) present in other than Honda coolant.
Originally posted by philgates
Do you have to reset and re-train the ECU after the IceBox install?
Do you have to reset and re-train the ECU after the IceBox install?
1) Turn car on.
2) Drive.
The ECU is constantly 'learning'. There is no need to disconnect the battery or fuse. Steve (scalbert above) has debunked this myth with his ECU monitoring data.
Originally posted by BC
MattG. I would use the Honda coolant. A couple of years ago there was a high percentage of water pump failures w/gold wing motorcycles. Cause was traced to silicates (think sand and glass) present in other than Honda coolant.
MattG. I would use the Honda coolant. A couple of years ago there was a high percentage of water pump failures w/gold wing motorcycles. Cause was traced to silicates (think sand and glass) present in other than Honda coolant.
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