I thought you couldn't replace the ECU on the CL
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Best D-Line in the NFL
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From: Gainesville, Fl for college, Palm Beach Gardens, Fl at Home
I thought you couldn't replace the ECU on the CL
Re: I thought you couldn't replace the ECU on the CL
1) You can replace the ECU in any car. It's either a EEPROM (where you have to pull it out, erase it under UV light, and reprogram it), or a flash programmable (just done through the OBD port.
2) That's just a resistor that's screwing with the temperature sensor to make the ECU *think* it's colder. On the intake is a thermistor (a resistor that changes resistance based on temperature).
Depending on if the resistance goes up or down with temp, you can put a resistor in series or parallel with the thermistor to change the value reported to the ECU. It's a not new trick to make the ECU think the air is colder, so it doesn't retard the timing as much.
It used to work on the older computer systems, but I'm not sure about the new OBD-II ones.
If you're interested, do some searching on the F-body (Camaro/T/A) or Mustang forums. If it truely works great, it'll be posted there, and will have been dyno'd.
FYI:
You need to be careful how much you modify the value though. Otherwise you'll end up with a check engine light.

Originally posted by SilverKnight
Off Topic: EEPROM cannot be erase with UV Eraser. It's EPROM that can be erased with UV Eraser
Off Topic: EEPROM cannot be erase with UV Eraser. It's EPROM that can be erased with UV Eraser

Thanks for the correction.
Ok, here's a link that explains what the Ebay listing does:
http://rogueperformance.com/IntakeAir.html
It's something you can do in the driveway for less than a buck, and apparently sell on Ebay for $25!
:P
http://rogueperformance.com/IntakeAir.html
It's something you can do in the driveway for less than a buck, and apparently sell on Ebay for $25!
:P
Re: Re: I thought you couldn't replace the ECU on the CL
Originally posted by Wires
Depending on if the resistance goes up or down with temp, you can put a resistor in series or parallel with the thermistor to change the value reported to the ECU. It's a not new trick to make the ECU think the air is colder, so it doesn't retard the timing as much.
Depending on if the resistance goes up or down with temp, you can put a resistor in series or parallel with the thermistor to change the value reported to the ECU. It's a not new trick to make the ECU think the air is colder, so it doesn't retard the timing as much.
Our thermister output increases the voltage as the temperature decreases. So a resistor on the output would decrease the voltage signal to the ECU making it look warmer which is the opposite of what we would want.
Additionally most GM vehicles use a MAF whereas we use speed density. By altering the IAT signal you would probably get a little more timing but also cause the car to run richer due the the ECU using the MAP and IAT as the primary calculations for load.
So ideally you would use an op amp to increase the IAT voltage signal and then use a resistor to decrease the MAP signal to get that extra fuel out. But you would only want to do this at WOT or else the FT would be screwed. I was playing with this last spring but never finished the bread board design. I've been meaning to get back on it but it isn't a pressing issue.
Re: Re: Re: I thought you couldn't replace the ECU on the CL
Originally posted by scalbert
This works for GM vehicles but not our Honda.
Our thermister output increases the voltage as the temperature decreases. So a resistor on the output would decrease the voltage signal to the ECU making it look warmer which is the opposite of what we would want.
Additionally most GM vehicles use a MAF whereas we use speed density. By altering the IAT signal you would probably get a little more timing but also cause the car to run richer due the the ECU using the MAP and IAT as the primary calculations for load.
So ideally you would use an op amp to increase the IAT voltage signal and then use a resistor to decrease the MAP signal to get that extra fuel out. But you would only want to do this at WOT or else the FT would be screwed. I was playing with this last spring but never finished the bread board design. I've been meaning to get back on it but it isn't a pressing issue.
This works for GM vehicles but not our Honda.
Our thermister output increases the voltage as the temperature decreases. So a resistor on the output would decrease the voltage signal to the ECU making it look warmer which is the opposite of what we would want.
Additionally most GM vehicles use a MAF whereas we use speed density. By altering the IAT signal you would probably get a little more timing but also cause the car to run richer due the the ECU using the MAP and IAT as the primary calculations for load.
So ideally you would use an op amp to increase the IAT voltage signal and then use a resistor to decrease the MAP signal to get that extra fuel out. But you would only want to do this at WOT or else the FT would be screwed. I was playing with this last spring but never finished the bread board design. I've been meaning to get back on it but it isn't a pressing issue.
Damn Honda...
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