Yes they would be, assuming you can mount that width on the front wheels, and not have problems with strut clearance when turning the wheels.

Just a FYI though: If you toss bigger tires onto the rims, keep in mind the suspension was tuned for 215 50 R17 tires. You'll probably end up with weird feels from the car (gentle hopping on the street, it wanting to find the low spots in the road, etc. But it will look sweet with the extra 3/4" of tread width!

 

I called "Tire Kingdom" down here, and they say that the Yokohamas are a noisey sounding tire. Well, probably not noisier than the CompTech Exhausts. LOL

 

If you're looking for tires, check out www.tirerack.com.

You can check customer feedback on how they liked/disliked the tires, and how they were rated in various driving conditions.

I found it a big help for choosing tires.

 

I went on line to Tirerack to check out the height and width of the Yokohamas. It is the same diameter as the Michelin standard tire, but for some reason they had the width as not available. I'll have to call there tomorrow to further check and compare.

 

No no no

The actual difference is minimal.

The Michelin's have a dia of 25.5 and a RPM of 819.

The 225/45/17 AVS ES100s have a dia of 25.1(+) with and RPM of 828.

The RPM is what you use to determine the percentage of rotational difference between two tires.

So the difference we are talking about is 1.1%. So at 60MPH you are only off .66MPH. Meaning if you are reading 60MPH with the Michelins, your new reading with the Yokos is 60.66MPH.

Not even 1 mile over!

Assuming you averaged 60MPH for every mile driven and the odometer reading is 70,000 miles, (which is extreemly unlikely) your adjusted odometer reading with the Yokos would add just over 750 miles. Or 70,750 miles. (not 70,770 because of rounding on the 1.1%.)

So is an extra 750 miles on your odometer after 5 or so years really an issue. NO WAY! It won't effect anything, except your extended warranty that would run out 750 miles sooner. And if you are worried about warranty and something breaking. You better never ever race it, run it hard. Just baby it for life.

Anyway, you'll pick up some extra HP by going with the 25.1" Yoko verses a 25.5" tire.

So think about what you really want.

OEM specs, or improved performance at the expense of a less than 1.1% error in the speedo reading?

And lastly, your speed is off in the first place. Your 60MPH reading is not accurate to begin with.

RUF

 

i am running one of Yokohoma and three stock tires, is that bad?

sidemarker

 

The 235/45/17 have an identical RPM od 819. So speedo reading will be 99.999% identical.

However, the tire is recommended for 7.5" wheels and above. So neither the CLS or TLS wheel will work. Yes, I know some who put 235" on 7" wheels, and they fit. However, the tire performance is compromized by doing so.

IMO, this is a much bigger issue than being off 1.1% on the RPM.

Also, note, the tire width of the 235 will place it beyond the aerodynamic design of the car. Meaning a small part of the wheel will extend past the designed airflow, thus creating more drag on the car, meaning worse gas mileage, and top speed if you care.

Also, keep in mind that the heavier the tire, the harder it is on the engine, tranny, brakes and susspension.

So, you were worried about the speedo being off 1.1%? Remember, there are always trade-offs. Even by going back with the stock tire.

Have fun with your decision, it is ultimately yours.

RUF

 

 

FYI - here is the Yokohama site with all the various specs to consider.

http://www.yokohamatire.com/04b2m.html

RUF

 

I'm a bit confused, if i have 16's right now and i go up to 17's the spedometer reading will be more than what i'm really doing or it will be less. (ie 60 mph on sped = 59.34 or 60 mph = 60.66)

 

"I'm a bit confused, if i have 16's right now and i go up to 17's the spedometer reading will be more than what i'm really doing or it will be less. (ie 60 mph on sped = 59.34 or 60 mph = 60.66)"

Depends entirely on the particular tire you put on, more specifically total diameter.

total diameter = rim + 2 sidewalls

Sidewall = section width x aspect ratio

eg. 215/50/17

Sidewall = 215mm x 50% = 107.5 mm == 4.23 inches (divide by 25.4)

total diameter = 17 + 4.23 + 4.23 = 25.46 inches ***

***note the stated size is never exact so check as each manufacturer is different

 

That is 100% correct, even within a manufacturer, no two tire models that are say 215/50/17 will have exactly the same specs.

Assuming yu want to be as accurate as possible, the best way to verify what your speedo variation will be is to get the RPM spec from the manufacturer. I belive that RPM, which is the number of revolutions that a tire takes at 40MPH. It may be 60MPH, but I think it is 40MPH.

So find the RPM of your tire and then compare that spec to your options. The reason for using this spec verses diameter is because of rounding to the nearest 10th. So one tire might say 25.5" and so may another, but the one may actually be 25.5459" and the other 25.47675". The RPM on the other hand would read something like 819RPM for one and 825 RPM for the other.

That said, we are talking mouse nuts in terms of the speedo reading error.

That's why I stated in an earlier post that as long as you are within 1/2" dia, I wou;dn't worry about the difference.
Just know that it's there and enjoy the ride.

Personally, I was looking at tires that were up to an 1" in difference. That inch would have effected my speedo by 2.6MPH. So say it was 3MPH, big deal. At 45MPH you are only off 1.97MPH.

The advantage is the closer the weight is to the center of the wheel, the less parasitic drag it has.


The downside is that you will have even more space within the fenderwell area. So you'll want to get springs or coilovers to lower the car. Now if you don't want to go through that expense, then stay with a tire that is closer to OEM spec.

Also, take the time to look at the tire weights. The Michelins are about 23-23.5 lbs. Dropping a couple of pounds on the tires is more dramatic than dropping a couple off of the wheels.

I love it when guys get those 18" wheels or bigger tires and then get beat in a race. Expecially chrome wheels, they are really heavy. So think about show verses go. You can't have your cake and eat it too, but you can get a pretty good balance if you do you research.

I got a look that I love, better traction, minimal variance from OEM spec, and I dropped over 8lbs from each wheel. I'm expecting my 0-60 times to drop between .10 and .30 secs.

Remember it is a science.

RUF

 

Do these 225 Yokohamas meet the weight requirement for our car? It looks like they do:


And their treadwear rating is 280? Isn't stock around 330? That's quite a bit more tire wear.

What's the price on these?

It seems they sell this exact tire but in V or W rating so the treadwear should be better there. Hmmm.

edit - 225/45WR17 94W SL 280 AA A
1477lbs.
50psi
10/32nds
7-8.5"
7.5"
8.9"
8.7"
25.1"
828


Looks like same wear rating for WR17s but they're a nice $105 each at TireRack.

 

Be careful with treadwear ratings.

1. there is no harmonized standard between manufacturers
2. the stock MXM4 may have a high treadwear rating but since the grip sucks, you will end up spinning the fronts a lot more which in the end will shorten the life more

I'd take TS1's or SP9000's over stock any day. In the end they'll probably last a bit less but the stock tires are approaching dangerous they suck so bad

 

That is correct about tread wear ratings. I also believe that the ratings are taken according to the manufacturer's various products and compariing them as opposed to a comparison between different manufactures tires.

So use it only as a loose guide of sorts. I'd only worry about tires with 220 or less as being very soft, unless you want the ultimate in stickyness. So again, it's a trade off.

RUF

RUF

 

And yes, the 225/45ZR17 94W Yokohama AVS ES100s would work. A bit cheaper than the Toyo Proxes T1-S of the same size, but the Yoko is almost 2lbs heavier.

As for which tire is better based on other merits, I don't really know. In the end, $50 more per tire I still went with the Toyos. That's not a lot unless you are on a tight budget. I just liked the look of the Toyo's in the end, and they weight advantage was the deal closer for me.

RUF

 

But you said they're lighter than the stock tires, so that's still a benefit.

Also, yes, tight budget.

 

Yes, but only about 1lbs. So better, but it won't be noticable to you.

If you want cheap and lighter still, try looking at the Falken Zeix 512s, 225/45/17.

They are about 21lbs, MFG tread wear of 360, A/A rating, but provide slightly less tread width than the AVS ES100s, and less sticky, but still should be better than the Michelins. They may even be cheaper than the Yokos too. ;-)

AIMHO

Anyway, just check out their website , search under Falken tire. It's also cool.

RUF

 

The website is pretty cool, and those tires look great. Only downside I see to those is the rpm is 833 which is a bit higher than the stock 819. 1.7% off isn't too bad though, I guess.

 

I just got my 225/45/17 Yokohama AVS 100's put on yesterday, and boy let me tell you stock michelins suck!!!! These tires make the car handle soo much better that its sick! They grip like a mother. I was taking turns fast and couldn't even get them to break loose. almost feels like I have a new car! The price is great only $105 a tire from Tirerack. I admit I was abit skeptical about members claiming all these gains over stock tires but now I'm a believer...upgrading the rubber is a must.

 

\

FWIW - I went with a 25.1 dia vs 25.5, or 829 RPM vs 819. I found one of those speed radar devices and check my speed.

At 45MPH the radar messured 45MPH. Previously I was reading 44MPH. So what I'm saying is my speedo reading with the old OEM tires was always a bit slower on the radar. Now it appears that my readind are more accurate.

Of course that assuming the radar is accurate to begin with. But this I do know, speedo readings on most new cars is not 100% accurate.

So I would not not worry one bit about being off by 1,2,3 and even 5% is only a 3MPH error at 60, or 2MPH depending on your speedos accuracy.

Just make sure you aren't going with a tire that is narrower than the OEM, but not too wide either, as long as you stay within the fenderwells.

RUF

 

Sorry, should have proofed my post.

I ment to say that my speedo was reading slow with the OEM tires, and now with the slightly smaller tires it seems the speedo is spot on.

So a 833 RPM tire would impact your speedo actual reading by .005%

RUF

 

I think some posts should recheck their numbers before throwing out how many inches one tire's height will be from another. Interesting math going on in parts of this thread...

Anyway, I have the Yoko's previously mentioned in the 225/45/17's, and they are absolutely awesome. Low noise, amazing traction, great price. They sit barely outside the side of the wheel, and look great on the car. As another post accurately mentioned, the overall diameter of the tire will change very insignificantly upgrading from the crappy Michelins, and barely mess with the guages over the long haul.

 

Did anyone buy the Falkens? If so, from what site? TireRack doesn't sell them and I'm tempted to go with those over the Yokohamas if the price is right because the wear rating is 360 vs the Yoko's 280 and everything else is about the same.

If not I'll just go with the Yokos from TireRack.

Thanks.

 

You can get the Falkens from Discount Tire. But the Falkens don't spec out to be as sticky as the Yoko's.
So while the Falkens may have better treadwear, you may actually wear them out faster is you spin them more than the Yoko's would . . under a heavier foot. In the end, you might only get a few 1,000 miles more out of them. Just depends on your actual driving habits. IMO.

RUF

 

a 225/50/17 with a taller sidewall than a 215/50/17 would be a step down from stock as far as performance? All other factors being equal.

 

Sidewall of 225/50 = 225 x .50 = 112.5 mm.
Sidewall of 215/50 = 215 x .50 = 107.5 mm.
Difference in sidewall height = 5 mm (or 1/5 inch for those not metrically inclined).

I would guess that this difference is not significant enough to change street performance.

 

Ok, how about those tires:

Sumitomo HTR+

Should I get the 215 (like stock) 225 or 235 on my stock rims ? I will be driving them in the snow, and want good handling,

Thanks

 

I looked at those, but I just needed a summer/wet tire, and the lightest tire possible. And if I remember correctly, the Sumo was 2-3 pounds heavier.

If you need an all season tire, then finding a lighter tire will be hard as most are heavier than summer tires.

RUF

 

I'm stock now, thinking of getting the toyos. I already get shitty 15mpg around town in stop and go. Those of you who've got the toyos, what kind of mpg loss in city driving would I experience? Thanks.

 

I've not seen any mileage tests done using various tires.

However, going to a lighter tire should in theory help some, but how much is a guess.

The negative to a stickier tire is that it increases rolling resistence, resulting in a poorer mileage.

One thing you may want to check is your tire pressure. Many people run towards the lower pressure end of the tires rated range. Doing so will improve traction and soften the ride, but will hurt gas mileage. While increasing tire pressure will reduce the rolling resistence.

So check your tires range, and then increase your air pressure.

For example. My Toyos can take up to 51lbs, but I'm running 35lbs. So I could easily run 5 more lbs without a prob.

Try it and see what happens.

That said, not much is really going to make a big difference on heavy stop and go driving. Except developing in light foot on your starts. :P

RUF

RUF