How many bottles does it take to break a J32A2?
06-15-2012, 03:02 PM
#3
I've went through about 5 on mine so far. I'm spraying a 145 shot. I'm glad the engine can take the abuse. What are you using to retard the timing and what spark plugs?
06-15-2012, 07:04 PM
#4
Other than intake, headers, and pulleys...I'm 100% bone stock baby. No ignition changes what so ever. I did go 2 steps colder on the plugs for obvious reasons. I run my jet on my fuel solenoid large for a rich mixture and use to have methanol as a supplemental fuel but have even removed that as I see no signs of detonation both physically nor on a engine datastream.
As for my drivetrain I've YET to break so much as a bolt. But keeping fingers crossed...
Anyone else have any track records on running nitrous on a stock motor? Or better yet, any breakage stories?
As for my drivetrain I've YET to break so much as a bolt. But keeping fingers crossed...
Anyone else have any track records on running nitrous on a stock motor? Or better yet, any breakage stories?
06-17-2012, 12:27 PM
#5
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Fries, whom I wish wasn't banned, has many passes in his TL. So far, the engine is holding up. His transmission went out once (6MT), and hes broken many axles. His best time is a 13.04 @ ~108 with a 1.85 60' (on slicks).
06-17-2012, 06:35 PM
#7
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
All stock internals. I believe hes running a 150 shot at the moment. He just recently bumped it up.
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06-17-2012, 10:29 PM
#8
This means I must try a 200...
If I've been running a 150 for 22 bottles now, I bet it could handle the extra power. But then again, that could be pushing it over the "safe" threshold.
Has this guy reported any issues running the 150 shots like pulling excess timing under use? Or knock? Anything bad aside from drivetrain breakage? It's honestly baffling how these motors show no signs of detonation with high compression and running ONLY premium pump gas. Atleast I've yet to see anything while monitoring datastream as well as mechanical signs. I frequently pull all 6 plugs and use my "mechanics scope" to inspect piston tops, cylinder walls for any signs of heat damage, pitting, etc...
06-17-2012, 11:24 PM
#9
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
AFAIK its been running fine. He does run 2 step colder plugs though.
06-17-2012, 11:25 PM
#10
I'm spraying a 145 shot also. I just have two step colder plugs and also pull them on the regular to keep a eye on them. I'm just scared since I'm not pulling any timing, so whatever the ecu is doing it's holding it great lol. My afr's are 11.0-12.1's at wot on the juice. How's your clutch holding it? Because mine hates me lol.
06-18-2012, 07:21 AM
#11
^^^
I read this a lot on manual trans CL/TL's on juice. They always say to use a performance clutch that provides tougher clutch discs and stiffer springs. Also, what are you using to monitor engine management? Never seen a stock motor respond so well for the amount I've been using. Who's gonna be first on trying 200?
I read this a lot on manual trans CL/TL's on juice. They always say to use a performance clutch that provides tougher clutch discs and stiffer springs. Also, what are you using to monitor engine management? Never seen a stock motor respond so well for the amount I've been using. Who's gonna be first on trying 200?
06-18-2012, 12:47 PM
#12
I'm going to run the clutchmaster stage 3 kit with they're aluminum flywheel. I have a dual wideband sensor setup made be f.a.s.t. to monitor the afr's and datalog. I honestly don't know if the engine can hold a 200 shot but I would be willing to go a little higher with my kit eventually maybe a 175 shot.
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...egory_Code=Gas
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...egory_Code=Gas
06-18-2012, 03:36 PM
#13
Dual wideband as in dual AFR (1 sensor per bank) or as in 1 for datalog and 1 for AFR? As for the 200 shot, nobody knew these motors could withstand a 150 but we did it anyways. Strange logic I know but isn't that what this is all about? Lol.
Also, as a side note: I've recently been noticing that my AFR gauge has been reading very rich at WOT and as well as at idle. By rich I mean anywhere between .3-.7 richer depending on engine speed. Because I normally watch my AFR gauge during nitrous use, I either never realized this or it just started happening. After reviewing some O2 sensor monitors I realized my B1S1 O2 sensor was lagging BIG TIME on its readings and also misinterpretating information back to the ECM. After replacing the sensor, my AFR reading all stabilized back to normal and everything was reading good again. What bothered me was how the ECM never detected this. I assume that's only because the being a primary sensor it depends on its information to determine the base A/F ratio and only by me having a separate O2 sensor (wideband) installed was I able to see this and not the ECM itself. But even so, the monitor was showing such slooooow performance that it makes me believe one of two things:
1. Acura's sensor parameters are very wide (unlike a finely factory tuned BMW that has very narrow margins) and allows the engine to have a lot of play before setting trouble codes.
2. Because this sensor is considered a "master reporting" component in the hierarchy of sensors, what other factor did the ECM have to use in order to "see" it's faults thus not setting a code?
As for reason number 2, this is why it's so important to have each bank individually monitored by 02 sensors instead of reading at the join where both banks combine! In other words, (hypothetically) if you have one bank reading rich and the other reading lean, because the O2 sensor reads where they join it's going to average these out and report a ideal A/F ratio back to the computer. That issue alone opens up all kinds of possible issues that could cause the ECM to believe everything's ok when it's really not.
END RANT!
Also, as a side note: I've recently been noticing that my AFR gauge has been reading very rich at WOT and as well as at idle. By rich I mean anywhere between .3-.7 richer depending on engine speed. Because I normally watch my AFR gauge during nitrous use, I either never realized this or it just started happening. After reviewing some O2 sensor monitors I realized my B1S1 O2 sensor was lagging BIG TIME on its readings and also misinterpretating information back to the ECM. After replacing the sensor, my AFR reading all stabilized back to normal and everything was reading good again. What bothered me was how the ECM never detected this. I assume that's only because the being a primary sensor it depends on its information to determine the base A/F ratio and only by me having a separate O2 sensor (wideband) installed was I able to see this and not the ECM itself. But even so, the monitor was showing such slooooow performance that it makes me believe one of two things:
1. Acura's sensor parameters are very wide (unlike a finely factory tuned BMW that has very narrow margins) and allows the engine to have a lot of play before setting trouble codes.
2. Because this sensor is considered a "master reporting" component in the hierarchy of sensors, what other factor did the ECM have to use in order to "see" it's faults thus not setting a code?
As for reason number 2, this is why it's so important to have each bank individually monitored by 02 sensors instead of reading at the join where both banks combine! In other words, (hypothetically) if you have one bank reading rich and the other reading lean, because the O2 sensor reads where they join it's going to average these out and report a ideal A/F ratio back to the computer. That issue alone opens up all kinds of possible issues that could cause the ECM to believe everything's ok when it's really not.
END RANT!
06-18-2012, 10:51 PM
#14
My setup has two wideband sensors I can monitor them individually or average the two. I can also datalog either way. One sensor is on the front bank and the second is on the rear bank. I also still have both oem sensors for the stock ecm to read from. We also put a spacer on the second oem sensor to trick the ecu to thinking I still have a cat. So I don't have a check engine lights on.
06-18-2012, 11:10 PM
#15
Sounds like a nice (but expensive) setup man. Actually done right...I commend that. What brand O2 sensors are you using? Also, how long have you been running the post-cat O2 sensor with success and what length is the spacer? Any performance gains felt/noticed on the converter removal?
Do both banks run ideal AF ratios with and without nitrous under WOT? I've always been curious as to the nitrous/fuel distribution properties of the intake manifold and possibly causing any lean or rich conditions on any of the cylinders. Anything unusual seen like that on the data logger?
Do both banks run ideal AF ratios with and without nitrous under WOT? I've always been curious as to the nitrous/fuel distribution properties of the intake manifold and possibly causing any lean or rich conditions on any of the cylinders. Anything unusual seen like that on the data logger?
06-18-2012, 11:14 PM
#16
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
The following responses are not my own, but those of Fries. Seriously, we need to un-ban him 
Try some NGK 4554 plugs, they are coppers and 2 steps colder then stock, and the best part were they are only like $4 a piece or so at the local parts store AND IN STOCK TOO
as far as retard timing...... NEVER HEARD OF SUCH A THING, but seriously i have not done anything to retard the timing on mine (stock tune is pretty conservative)
i don't see anything on the "pid" KNOCK RETARD either, but i do see it occasionally retard timing off the spray though, mainly during transitions in the throttle position/foot
BTW what scan tool you using, i got a STRAP-ON VERDICT (been out less then a year iirc; AND YES IT IS $$$$$$$$$$$$$, but quite fast though)
as far as the engine goes it's still going 135K miles strong, without a single issue other then the oil compsumption is a bit high with how i drive it (i average 17 MPG ), with i would say about a quart every 750-1000 miles (and yes i know it could probably use new rings), but then again what do you expect with only getting mentioned gas mileage
transmission wise, yes i completely stripped 3rd gear of all it's teeth about a year ago, and not had an issue like that since (and the funny part is it broke off the bottle too, but yes i was racing a friend though); as far as how many times i've torn apart my trans for other issues...... (synchros really, 2nd gear twice, Reverse once {it was never right since i swapped}; and yes i know i'm rough on it at times)
as far as fluid for the trans, i use Redline's Lightweight shockproof oil, it's teal in color fyi; if i use anything lighter or stock fluid, it comes out grayish in color, which is never a good sign LOL (but the redline comes out new looking though)
6 axles btw, they have only been stock replacements ones though...... ,(CIVIC OR FOX...... when are you getting off your asses.....) but anyway it's been mainly the shaft that has broken on me, at the splines going into the joints themselves (but i have also broken the stub shafts on both the inner and outer joints though on the passenger side)
and the best part about my best time..... is once i switched to slicks i can run very close to that time alot more consistently, compared to being on all seasons (13.4 best fyi)(still playing around with tire pressure and such though)
also the slick i'm on are toyos, i bought used for $200 (but still had not been used though )(fyi size is 25x8x15....... and YES FOX they do fit with some creativity over stock brakes)
a home made/drilled 143.5 hp shot........ i need to get a master jet pack
and see above for engine info
i was at 125 and just recently bumped it up to a 143.5 shot
i don't know how many bottles i've ran at the 125 shot size, but i know during race season i was going through a bottle a week though (almost every week FYI)
as far as at the 143.5 size....... idk, cause i just recently got my own mother bottle to top off my own bottles, and have not kept track very well, but memorial day weekend i did go through 1.5 bottles though
only SHELL pump gas goes in mine........ (with the rare Conoco in it to say get me home to fill up with SHELL)
AND INSPECT THE PISTON TOPS LMFAO........ most i've done is look done the plug holes to see the tops are clean, which they are fyi; BUT yes they are STRONG ENGINES in stock form though (and don't be so sure about hitting 200 first lol, i think before that though i need to upgrade my main bottle feed line or something though, it just seems to be restricting the flow too much even only at the 143 shot)
correct, the 1 steps were fine on the 125 shot, but once i bumpped the shot up, the ecu started flashing the CEL , but i could not feel anything though, so it was picking something up....... but since putting in 2 step colder plugs, it has not flashed at all
stock tune is VERY CONSERVITIVE (but also the nice thing about modern ecu's.... is the amount of safety's built into them and adaptability compared to like carbs)
also have you ever looked at the AFR's without the bottle? they will get into the very low 12's STOCK......
mine are currently mid to high 11's on the bottle btw, i would like it a little leaner, but as mentioned before i need a master jetting pack, to be able to tune it more precisely
an aftermarket clutch is just going to last you longer then stock lol, also with an aftermarket clutch you gotta be willing to accept the fact that you may indeed break the trans, instead of just burning up the clutch with how they do grab better (more shock to the driveline)
both civic and me are running said clutch
and FYI the wife's 09 Subie WRX is getting the same clutch, cause iv'e been happy with mine (will be 3rd clutch in it in 60k miles, first one was under warrenty though) AND YES IT GETS RACED TOO.....
and i think somebody will be crazy enough to try a 200 shot, but before i even attempt it though (and the key is taking increments up to that size shot), i gotta sort out some other things first to make sure it can handle it and such
Try some NGK 4554 plugs, they are coppers and 2 steps colder then stock, and the best part were they are only like $4 a piece or so at the local parts store AND IN STOCK TOO
as far as retard timing...... NEVER HEARD OF SUCH A THING, but seriously i have not done anything to retard the timing on mine (stock tune is pretty conservative)
Other than intake, headers, and pulleys...I'm 100% bone stock baby. No ignition changes what so ever. I did go 2 steps colder on the plugs for obvious reasons. I run my jet on my fuel solenoid large for a rich mixture and use to have methanol as a supplemental fuel but have even removed that as I see no signs of detonation both physically nor on a engine datastream.
As for my drivetrain I've YET to break so much as a bolt. But keeping fingers crossed...
Anyone else have any track records on running nitrous on a stock motor? Or better yet, any breakage stories?
As for my drivetrain I've YET to break so much as a bolt. But keeping fingers crossed...
Anyone else have any track records on running nitrous on a stock motor? Or better yet, any breakage stories?
BTW what scan tool you using, i got a STRAP-ON VERDICT (been out less then a year iirc; AND YES IT IS $$$$$$$$$$$$$, but quite fast though)
transmission wise, yes i completely stripped 3rd gear of all it's teeth about a year ago, and not had an issue like that since (and the funny part is it broke off the bottle too, but yes i was racing a friend though); as far as how many times i've torn apart my trans for other issues...... (synchros really, 2nd gear twice, Reverse once {it was never right since i swapped}; and yes i know i'm rough on it at times)
as far as fluid for the trans, i use Redline's Lightweight shockproof oil, it's teal in color fyi; if i use anything lighter or stock fluid, it comes out grayish in color, which is never a good sign LOL (but the redline comes out new looking though)
6 axles btw, they have only been stock replacements ones though...... ,(CIVIC OR FOX...... when are you getting off your asses.....) but anyway it's been mainly the shaft that has broken on me, at the splines going into the joints themselves (but i have also broken the stub shafts on both the inner and outer joints though on the passenger side)
and the best part about my best time..... is once i switched to slicks i can run very close to that time alot more consistently, compared to being on all seasons (13.4 best fyi)(still playing around with tire pressure and such though)
also the slick i'm on are toyos, i bought used for $200 (but still had not been used though )(fyi size is 25x8x15....... and YES FOX they do fit with some creativity over stock brakes)
and see above for engine info
Someone running the same shot as me?
This means I must try a 200...
If I've been running a 150 for 22 bottles now, I bet it could handle the extra power. But then again, that could be pushing it over the "safe" threshold.
Has this guy reported any issues running the 150 shots like pulling excess timing under use? Or knock? Anything bad aside from drivetrain breakage? It's honestly baffling how these motors show no signs of detonation with high compression and running ONLY premium pump gas. Atleast I've yet to see anything while monitoring datastream as well as mechanical signs. I frequently pull all 6 plugs and use my "mechanics scope" to inspect piston tops, cylinder walls for any signs of heat damage, pitting, etc...
This means I must try a 200...
If I've been running a 150 for 22 bottles now, I bet it could handle the extra power. But then again, that could be pushing it over the "safe" threshold.
Has this guy reported any issues running the 150 shots like pulling excess timing under use? Or knock? Anything bad aside from drivetrain breakage? It's honestly baffling how these motors show no signs of detonation with high compression and running ONLY premium pump gas. Atleast I've yet to see anything while monitoring datastream as well as mechanical signs. I frequently pull all 6 plugs and use my "mechanics scope" to inspect piston tops, cylinder walls for any signs of heat damage, pitting, etc...
as far as at the 143.5 size....... idk, cause i just recently got my own mother bottle to top off my own bottles, and have not kept track very well, but memorial day weekend i did go through 1.5 bottles though
only SHELL pump gas goes in mine........ (with the rare Conoco in it to say get me home to fill up with SHELL)
AND INSPECT THE PISTON TOPS LMFAO........ most i've done is look done the plug holes to see the tops are clean, which they are fyi; BUT yes they are STRONG ENGINES in stock form though (and don't be so sure about hitting 200 first lol, i think before that though i need to upgrade my main bottle feed line or something though, it just seems to be restricting the flow too much even only at the 143 shot)
I'm spraying a 145 shot also. I just have two step colder plugs and also pull them on the regular to keep a eye on them. I'm just scared since I'm not pulling any timing, so whatever the ecu is doing it's holding it great lol. My afr's are 11.0-12.1's at wot on the juice. How's your clutch holding it? Because mine hates me lol.
also have you ever looked at the AFR's without the bottle? they will get into the very low 12's STOCK......
mine are currently mid to high 11's on the bottle btw, i would like it a little leaner, but as mentioned before i need a master jetting pack, to be able to tune it more precisely
^^^
I read this a lot on manual trans CL/TL's on juice. They always say to use a performance clutch that provides tougher clutch discs and stiffer springs. Also, what are you using to monitor engine management? Never seen a stock motor respond so well for the amount I've been using. Who's gonna be first on trying 200?
I read this a lot on manual trans CL/TL's on juice. They always say to use a performance clutch that provides tougher clutch discs and stiffer springs. Also, what are you using to monitor engine management? Never seen a stock motor respond so well for the amount I've been using. Who's gonna be first on trying 200?
I'm going to run the clutchmaster stage 3 kit with they're aluminum flywheel. I have a dual wideband sensor setup made be f.a.s.t. to monitor the afr's and datalog. I honestly don't know if the engine can hold a 200 shot but I would be willing to go a little higher with my kit eventually maybe a 175 shot.
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...egory_Code=Gas
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...egory_Code=Gas
and FYI the wife's 09 Subie WRX is getting the same clutch, cause iv'e been happy with mine (will be 3rd clutch in it in 60k miles, first one was under warrenty though) AND YES IT GETS RACED TOO.....
and i think somebody will be crazy enough to try a 200 shot, but before i even attempt it though (and the key is taking increments up to that size shot), i gotta sort out some other things first to make sure it can handle it and such
06-18-2012, 11:48 PM
#17
I just put a new set of plugs in my car today NGK 5791 they look perfect on the nitrous. The last time I changed my plugs was around 9/11 so they held up good, and I pulled them a few times to read them. I noticed my car does consume oil on spray only also. It's not that bad though, from what people say behind me while I'm spraying it doesn't smoke white so that's a good sign lol. Only a slight black while on spray and that's normal.
I had a video on my phone from a datalog from a 3rd and 4th gear pull N/A my afr's were 12.5-11.5 depending what gear I was in and what rpm. It constantly changes since I can monitor what it's doing exactly.
I will stop by my friends shop tomorrow since I will be right near there to go bust his balls about the axles.
I agree with you 100% that's why I kinda don't mind having a slipping clutch on spray because I haven't broke anything yet lol. I know once I get the clutchmasters setup all the trouble will begin lol.
I'm glad a 15 inch wheel fit's properly, what size was yours exactly so I can have a idea? That's what size I truly want to use. I have a set of hoosier skinny tires for the rear already. I just need to buy my drag wheel setup once I figure out the correct sizes.
Yungone501 I'm using bosch sensors and about a 3-4 inch spacer for the rear oem narrowband sensor. I did the whole exhaust at once so it was a noticeable gain. About a 45whp gain over a complete stock setup. Check out my thread it's a completely custom exhaust setup.
I had a video on my phone from a datalog from a 3rd and 4th gear pull N/A my afr's were 12.5-11.5 depending what gear I was in and what rpm. It constantly changes since I can monitor what it's doing exactly.
I will stop by my friends shop tomorrow since I will be right near there to go bust his balls about the axles.
I agree with you 100% that's why I kinda don't mind having a slipping clutch on spray because I haven't broke anything yet lol. I know once I get the clutchmasters setup all the trouble will begin lol.
I'm glad a 15 inch wheel fit's properly, what size was yours exactly so I can have a idea? That's what size I truly want to use. I have a set of hoosier skinny tires for the rear already. I just need to buy my drag wheel setup once I figure out the correct sizes.
Yungone501 I'm using bosch sensors and about a 3-4 inch spacer for the rear oem narrowband sensor. I did the whole exhaust at once so it was a noticeable gain. About a 45whp gain over a complete stock setup. Check out my thread it's a completely custom exhaust setup.
Last edited by 1foxbody; 06-18-2012 at 11:53 PM.
06-19-2012, 03:09 AM
#18
Instructor
With all this NOS talk i was contemplating possibly running a small say 30-50 shot on my 6MT. Currently running stock 3 psi pully on the charger I want to go HBP but with all the issues with it maybe going the NOS route to cool intake temps wouldn't be a bad idea....
06-19-2012, 08:19 PM
#19
Also, to answer Fries responses above that were aimed at me:
Knock retard is basically when the knock sensor has detected engine knock/detonation and "pulls" timing to protect the motor from any damage. When this occurs, obviously power can be (and is usually) greatly affected. If knock retard is seen through datastream only during nitrous use, it's usually recommended to run an ignition box that can change/modify factory settings to run nitrous more safely without the ECM robbing the power. Or if an ignition box/programmer isn't available (like us), using a higher octane/faster burning fuel can alleviate the issue.
As for the scanner is use, I recently purchased the Launch X431 and LOVE it. Amazing datastream options and information...not to mention the refresh rate is almost real time. I have the ability to program and accurately diagnose most imports. Honda/Acura are it's strongest area. Total cost was $3600 but have seen them new for as low as $3100 and used between $1000-1500.
I am buying .66 nitrous jets tomorrow BTW...that's almost 170hp. So we'll see how that goes and will report back tomorrow night given I have time to install it!
I too ONLY use Shell gas. 93 octane and love it. It's expensive as F*CK but have never had one performance/drivability issue while using it...wether its related to that or not, I'm happy.
Knock retard is basically when the knock sensor has detected engine knock/detonation and "pulls" timing to protect the motor from any damage. When this occurs, obviously power can be (and is usually) greatly affected. If knock retard is seen through datastream only during nitrous use, it's usually recommended to run an ignition box that can change/modify factory settings to run nitrous more safely without the ECM robbing the power. Or if an ignition box/programmer isn't available (like us), using a higher octane/faster burning fuel can alleviate the issue.
As for the scanner is use, I recently purchased the Launch X431 and LOVE it. Amazing datastream options and information...not to mention the refresh rate is almost real time. I have the ability to program and accurately diagnose most imports. Honda/Acura are it's strongest area. Total cost was $3600 but have seen them new for as low as $3100 and used between $1000-1500.
I am buying .66 nitrous jets tomorrow BTW...that's almost 170hp. So we'll see how that goes and will report back tomorrow night given I have time to install it!
I too ONLY use Shell gas. 93 octane and love it. It's expensive as F*CK but have never had one performance/drivability issue while using it...wether its related to that or not, I'm happy.
06-20-2012, 05:47 PM
#20
Ok guys, just rejetted my solenoids for a 188hp shot (out of 200's) and I'm about to leave work and see what happens and hopefully...how it feels. Those who are reading this in time, please pray for my little J32 in hopes of the bottom end not being thrown through my oil pan. I'll give a report about how everything goes in an hour or so. Here we go...
06-20-2012, 07:24 PM
#22
So 188 + 280(ish)...that's almost 470hp at the crank. Before leaving the shop, I swapped over to a fresh 10lb bottle (that was filled to 13lbs) and turned the bottle heater on until I was around 1200psi. I ran higher on the pressure because I was using a little bit too large of a fuel solenoid jet so did this to offset that. Even doing this, I still was running pretty rich during the ride home. Anyways, ran maybe 10 pulls and usually do between 5-10 seconds when spraying. I hooked up data logging/monitoring equipment and recorded everything that happened. I was surprised that even at nearly 200hp, nothing unusual appeared on the data. Knock retard was a big fat ZERO, timing advance was a normal 27* at WOT under spray, no misfires on ANY cylinder were recorded at all...everything seemed to good to be true. Of course this was only 10 sprays and won't foretell anything solid in terms of continuous use. But I'm amazed how well this motor responds at these nitrous levels...STILL.
As for how it felt, lol....470hp would never feel slow.
As for how it felt, lol....470hp would never feel slow.
06-20-2012, 11:07 PM
#23
Have you been on the dyno yet? I'm curious to what yours is making to the wheels N/A and on nitrous. Also you aren't having any traction issues or clutch slippage?
Maybe I'll raise my shot up once I get a new clutch and flywheel.
Maybe I'll raise my shot up once I get a new clutch and flywheel.
06-21-2012, 01:11 PM
#24
I have an assumption of making 280 at the crank and i feel thats very conservative. Considering its 260hp factory and I have SRI, headers, underdrive pulleys and run synthetics in engine/trans. I'd be willing to bet its a little over 280hp but I use that number for my base. Also, motor has 132k miles on it just for the record.
As for traction issues, nope. I always keep traction control OFF and only spin in 1st. But then again, I typically hit the spray in 2nd gear and up and ONLY above 4-5k rpm's so thats what....45-50mph before nitrous hits the motor?
I did the first 188hp shot....you be the first to do 225! Think about it, the first member on Azine to hit the motor with a 225 shot!
06-23-2012, 12:41 PM
#26
So you have a automatic? I put down 280whp and 235wtq all motor. Yes I have traction problems from a 40mph roll if the clutch actually holds. But ever since I bought new street tires it's very minimal depending what type of pavement I'm on. I also bought slicks and I don't have any traction problems with those at all from a roll. I have problems mostly with my clutch slipping when it hooks.
06-24-2012, 08:02 PM
#27
^^^
Wow, all the way up to 40? I seen some of your videos posted in your thread and you would be AMAZED at how much faster your car would be with more traction and a clutch that actually catches bro! I run 3G 5-spoke wheels so I get 8" width instead of the 7.5" on oem's plus run the stickiest tires I could find: Yokohama some shits...don't remember the names but they were $$$$$$$$!! Went to track this last weekend and got my ass handed to me...by a 750 horse SS...so I ain't mad. Lol. (that's only because I missed a gear...shhh)
Wow, all the way up to 40? I seen some of your videos posted in your thread and you would be AMAZED at how much faster your car would be with more traction and a clutch that actually catches bro! I run 3G 5-spoke wheels so I get 8" width instead of the 7.5" on oem's plus run the stickiest tires I could find: Yokohama some shits...don't remember the names but they were $$$$$$$$!! Went to track this last weekend and got my ass handed to me...by a 750 horse SS...so I ain't mad. Lol. (that's only because I missed a gear...shhh)
06-28-2012, 09:26 AM
#28
All motor
^ What did you run?
Not to downplay the 13.04 @ 108, but I expected more than 108 traps running a 150 shot at the track....that's putting down almost 400whp. I would've thought at LEAST 111-112. Great 60' though. Only thing I'm not understanding is I ran 14.0 @ 102 with a 2.3 60'. With a 1.85, I'd be around 13.3-13.4 with a 102 trap. JCharged ran 13.8 @ 102.5 with a 2.3? I think. With a 1.85 he'd be right around 13.0. It's not adding up to me...am I the only one that thinks it's odd? I guess we don't have the liberty of spraying in every gear obviously. Was he spraying only in 3rd & 4th?
Not to downplay the 13.04 @ 108, but I expected more than 108 traps running a 150 shot at the track....that's putting down almost 400whp. I would've thought at LEAST 111-112. Great 60' though. Only thing I'm not understanding is I ran 14.0 @ 102 with a 2.3 60'. With a 1.85, I'd be around 13.3-13.4 with a 102 trap. JCharged ran 13.8 @ 102.5 with a 2.3? I think. With a 1.85 he'd be right around 13.0. It's not adding up to me...am I the only one that thinks it's odd? I guess we don't have the liberty of spraying in every gear obviously. Was he spraying only in 3rd & 4th?
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1foxbody (06-28-2012)
06-28-2012, 12:57 PM
#29
^ What did you run?
Not to downplay the 13.04 @ 108, but I expected more than 108 traps running a 150 shot at the track....that's putting down almost 400whp. I would've thought at LEAST 111-112. Great 60' though. Only thing I'm not understanding is I ran 14.0 @ 102 with a 2.3 60'. With a 1.85, I'd be around 13.3-13.4 with a 102 trap. JCharged ran 13.8 @ 102.5 with a 2.3? I think. With a 1.85 he'd be right around 13.0. It's not adding up to me...am I the only one that thinks it's odd? I guess we don't have the liberty of spraying in every gear obviously. Was he spraying only in 3rd & 4th?
Not to downplay the 13.04 @ 108, but I expected more than 108 traps running a 150 shot at the track....that's putting down almost 400whp. I would've thought at LEAST 111-112. Great 60' though. Only thing I'm not understanding is I ran 14.0 @ 102 with a 2.3 60'. With a 1.85, I'd be around 13.3-13.4 with a 102 trap. JCharged ran 13.8 @ 102.5 with a 2.3? I think. With a 1.85 he'd be right around 13.0. It's not adding up to me...am I the only one that thinks it's odd? I guess we don't have the liberty of spraying in every gear obviously. Was he spraying only in 3rd & 4th?
06-28-2012, 02:45 PM
#30
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
^ What did you run?
Not to downplay the 13.04 @ 108, but I expected more than 108 traps running a 150 shot at the track....that's putting down almost 400whp. I would've thought at LEAST 111-112. Great 60' though. Only thing I'm not understanding is I ran 14.0 @ 102 with a 2.3 60'. With a 1.85, I'd be around 13.3-13.4 with a 102 trap. JCharged ran 13.8 @ 102.5 with a 2.3? I think. With a 1.85 he'd be right around 13.0. It's not adding up to me...am I the only one that thinks it's odd? I guess we don't have the liberty of spraying in every gear obviously. Was he spraying only in 3rd & 4th?
Not to downplay the 13.04 @ 108, but I expected more than 108 traps running a 150 shot at the track....that's putting down almost 400whp. I would've thought at LEAST 111-112. Great 60' though. Only thing I'm not understanding is I ran 14.0 @ 102 with a 2.3 60'. With a 1.85, I'd be around 13.3-13.4 with a 102 trap. JCharged ran 13.8 @ 102.5 with a 2.3? I think. With a 1.85 he'd be right around 13.0. It's not adding up to me...am I the only one that thinks it's odd? I guess we don't have the liberty of spraying in every gear obviously. Was he spraying only in 3rd & 4th?
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Sonnick (06-28-2012)
06-28-2012, 03:32 PM
#31
All motor
^ Altitude makes sense. Depending how high, that can make a large difference. Obviously the stock airbox is hurting him as well. Thanks for clarifying Morgan.
06-28-2012, 03:36 PM
#32
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
~1 mile up there, hes in Denver.
06-28-2012, 07:27 PM
#33
Sonnick, don't know why but there were no time slips or boards at all! Very disappointed needless to say how big TMS is hosting shitbag events as such. There wasn't even a tree but rather a guy standing between the two cars throwing arms down, no judges to call any reds, only ONE light at the end of one lane to signal a win or a lose, unmatched pairs (like myself)....very upsetting.
06-28-2012, 09:28 PM
#34
Ultra Negro
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South Holland, IL
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^^^
Wow, all the way up to 40? I seen some of your videos posted in your thread and you would be AMAZED at how much faster your car would be with more traction and a clutch that actually catches bro! I run 3G 5-spoke wheels so I get 8" width instead of the 7.5" on oem's plus run the stickiest tires I could find: Yokohama some shits...don't remember the names but they were $$$$$$$$!! Went to track this last weekend and got my ass handed to me...by a 750 horse SS...so I ain't mad. Lol. (that's only because I missed a gear...shhh)
Wow, all the way up to 40? I seen some of your videos posted in your thread and you would be AMAZED at how much faster your car would be with more traction and a clutch that actually catches bro! I run 3G 5-spoke wheels so I get 8" width instead of the 7.5" on oem's plus run the stickiest tires I could find: Yokohama some shits...don't remember the names but they were $$$$$$$$!! Went to track this last weekend and got my ass handed to me...by a 750 horse SS...so I ain't mad. Lol. (that's only because I missed a gear...shhh)
06-29-2012, 08:04 AM
#37
All motor
Was the 13.04 @ 108 his actual run or DA calculated run? Because I just put 13.04 @ 108 into the DA calculator for a CO track and it read 11.9 @ 118 corrected lol. Altitude was like 6800 ft. Ridiculous. I'd have to assume it wouldn't be that fast, but I could imagine mid 12s easy @ 111-114 with the 150 shot and a 1.85 60'. That's 5.0 power in a car weighing 300-400lbs less.
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civicdrivr (06-29-2012)
06-29-2012, 01:03 PM
#40
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Was the 13.04 @ 108 his actual run or DA calculated run? Because I just put 13.04 @ 108 into the DA calculator for a CO track and it read 11.9 @ 118 corrected lol. Altitude was like 6800 ft. Ridiculous. I'd have to assume it wouldn't be that fast, but I could imagine mid 12s easy @ 111-114 with the 150 shot and a 1.85 60'. That's 5.0 power in a car weighing 300-400lbs less.