How to launch car at track
How to launch car at track
Hey guys,
Yesterday I went to see what my car would run. Best was 16.7 @ 84.8mph by just hitting the gas when the light turned green. Worst was 17.3 by neutral dropping
@ about 4k. Remember these numbers are at about 6000 feet. Converted, the 16.7 is about 15.4. Is this normal, or should it be better. How do you guys launch. I also tried power braking, but it would not go past 2k even with traction control off. I also weigh about 220, so would this effect it? Thanks for your help guys.
Yesterday I went to see what my car would run. Best was 16.7 @ 84.8mph by just hitting the gas when the light turned green. Worst was 17.3 by neutral dropping
@ about 4k. Remember these numbers are at about 6000 feet. Converted, the 16.7 is about 15.4. Is this normal, or should it be better. How do you guys launch. I also tried power braking, but it would not go past 2k even with traction control off. I also weigh about 220, so would this effect it? Thanks for your help guys.
i think i will turn the vsa off..turn the radio off..air condition off..and empty turnk..switch it to ss mode..and pay attend to light or singal...and push the gas pedal adequately.... and i weight about 150 lbs..
i believe this was mentioned in chod's FAQ at http://wizardsworks.org/chod/acura/
and dont forge to maybe keep your gas tank about 1/4 full, and maybe even take the spare out
and dont forge to maybe keep your gas tank about 1/4 full, and maybe even take the spare out
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Best technique i use is ... VSA OFF tach to about 2750 in SS1 on gate light 3/4 throttle for split second then floor it... ride into 6900 shift exactly on 7000K (Yes it can be done w/o rev-limiter bouncing) make sure i drive a straight line .. not floating in your lane .. that kills lotz of 1/4 times... You want some wheelspin off the line but dont sit there roasting.. also make sure you spin/burn off any water on tires when at pre-stage...
Also,
Move to New York @sea-level, wait until January @20 degrees farenheit, lose 70lbs (no offense
) , get Zex Nos/I/H/E/Syncivic super mod, and nitto 555 (out of production - find a warehouse w/stock)

[ 08-31-2001: Message edited by: RedLineTypeS ]
Also,
Move to New York @sea-level, wait until January @20 degrees farenheit, lose 70lbs (no offense
) , get Zex Nos/I/H/E/Syncivic super mod, and nitto 555 (out of production - find a warehouse w/stock)

[ 08-31-2001: Message edited by: RedLineTypeS ]
Are you located in Colorado to get such low times? I would check out your actuator either way. I dont recommend you Neutral drop your car ever. That is the best way to kill a tranny. Weather has a lot to do on what rpm you should brake torque at. If its really cold out I brake torque at around 1700-1800. If its really hot I can take it to 2000.
Originally posted by chizad1980:
<STRONG>Hey guys,
Yesterday I went to see what my car would run. Best was 16.7 @ 84.8mph by just hitting the gas when the light turned green. Worst was 17.3 by neutral dropping
@ about 4k. Remember these numbers are at about 6000 feet. Converted, the 16.7 is about 15.4. Is this normal, or should it be better. How do you guys launch. I also tried power braking, but it would not go past 2k even with traction control off. I also weigh about 220, so would this effect it? Thanks for your help guys.</STRONG>
<STRONG>Hey guys,
Yesterday I went to see what my car would run. Best was 16.7 @ 84.8mph by just hitting the gas when the light turned green. Worst was 17.3 by neutral dropping
@ about 4k. Remember these numbers are at about 6000 feet. Converted, the 16.7 is about 15.4. Is this normal, or should it be better. How do you guys launch. I also tried power braking, but it would not go past 2k even with traction control off. I also weigh about 220, so would this effect it? Thanks for your help guys.</STRONG>
powerbraking, I can get the revs up to 2500 rpm. traction control shouldn't have an impact on the torque converter stall speed.
I leave my car in d4 or d5, as in ss you can't really alter the 1-2 shift at full throttle and you'll only need up to 3rd to complete the run (at sea level I'm hitting about 95mph terminal, and 3rd is good to 110). some folks swear by ss, and that's certainly something you should try, just to see if it works for you.
I've run with and without traction control, and the runs are measurably better with it off (on my car, anyway). ymmv.
I always turn off my a/c. I am well aware that the a/c clutch disengages at wot, but the disengagement is not instantaneous by any means, and a small delay at the tree can translate into a significant impact at the timing lights. the more experienced racers will also tell you that leaving a/c condensation at the timing lights is lose.

the hard-core strip guys will also drop the tire airpressure up front and increase it in back. they'll yank the spare and jack (and anything else not permanently attached to the car) and run with a nearly empty gas tank. I've never bothered with all that (I was looking for off-the-dealer's-lot stock times), so I can't speak as to it's effectiveness, but it certainly seems logical.
I've noticed that wheelspin can be excessive when the track is cold, so you'll need to modulate the throttle somewhat under those circumstances. however, I've also found that once the track warms up and rubber (and traction compound) gets laid down at the starting line, I need all the wheelspin I can get in order to keep the revs up off the line. there is such a thing as too much traction. when that's the case, you have to decide how much wheel spin you want to allow, because these cars will wheel hop like crazy which is damaging if left checked.
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1st thing you need to do is.....CHECK YOUR FUCKING ACTUATOR!! DO IT RIGHT NOW. GO REV UP TO 3800 RPMS, LISTEN FOR A CLICK. HEAR IT? THEN THATS WORKING...dont hear it, its fucked and u need a new one... let us know
Holy !! 16.7??
Even at 6000ft. that's too high (not that I'm speaking from actual experience, I'm just speaking from emotion here).
I'd think 16.0 at the most. I agree w/ Spiroh, check your actuator, you could be driving the equivalent of a CL-P right now.
I didn't try the brake-torque + 3/4 throttle technique when I was at the track, each time I brake stalled, I had mad wheel hop that just killed my 60' time. The best 60' time I had was w/ simply mashing the gas at the second amber light (rxn time best of .7). AcuraCrazy couldn't get his tires to spin out no matter what he did, I think his lowered car made that difference. Springs definitely (IMO) help out your launch. He had a best of 15.1 w/ an intake, and I had a best of 15.3 w/o an intake and w/o springs.
Best advice I can give after having been to the track once in my life: make as many runs as possible to learn the track and your car on that particular day. Try everything.
Even at 6000ft. that's too high (not that I'm speaking from actual experience, I'm just speaking from emotion here).
I'd think 16.0 at the most. I agree w/ Spiroh, check your actuator, you could be driving the equivalent of a CL-P right now.
I didn't try the brake-torque + 3/4 throttle technique when I was at the track, each time I brake stalled, I had mad wheel hop that just killed my 60' time. The best 60' time I had was w/ simply mashing the gas at the second amber light (rxn time best of .7). AcuraCrazy couldn't get his tires to spin out no matter what he did, I think his lowered car made that difference. Springs definitely (IMO) help out your launch. He had a best of 15.1 w/ an intake, and I had a best of 15.3 w/o an intake and w/o springs.
Best advice I can give after having been to the track once in my life: make as many runs as possible to learn the track and your car on that particular day. Try everything.
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