CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

So I have original E brake pads on my car which are WORN down and it probably why I barely have a working e brake. I am buying new pads today do the drum set-up.

I have never touched a drum brake can anyone show me or explain to me wtf I'm supposed to do?

dfv3.2CL-S

iTrader: (1)

If I am correct the CL P and CL S have disc brakes on all four corners. No drums on it. Changing the pads are easy. Do a search for step by step process on the replacement.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

dude our E BRAKE uses drums in the rear.

It's ok one of my buddys knows how to do it no problem so i'm gonna get him to help me out.

Parts have been ordered

Rejckt

iTrader: (2)

Post diy plz. And what's the part number for the shoes.

CH46ESeaKnight

I did not know there was a drum back there for the parking brake. I mean , I know that it is 4 wheel disc brakes. But did no know there were drums also. Is there one on each side? If so make sure you only do one side at a time. That way when you have one torn apart you can look at the other to see how it goes back together. Just the way I've done any drum brake job.

You got any pics of that rear brake set up?

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

Yes there are 2 shoes on each side. just like a normal drum setup.
I'll have pics and DIY most likely up tomorrow if not, the next day. Along with e-brake adjustment (for autos).

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

shouldnt need to replace the shoes unless they were dragging. You probably just need an adjustment

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

dude they are 9 years old.. have been dragged a FEW TIMES, the surface is no longer evenly worn, and there are bumps in it... etc they are TRASH

i just put on new rotors like 8K ago and have not been using the ebrake since it is crap. I've heard on onld rotors the ebrake creates a groove on the inside of the rotor hub and if you change the shoes at that point your will likely only make a problem for yourself. so I would onlt recommend doing this IF your shoes are TOAST/original/abused.. and you have a brand new or fairly new rotors.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

The shoes for the e-brake are supposed to drag a bit. The brakes arent supposed to fully disengage, they will always make contact with the rotor/drum.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

yes I know but mine are mangled in so many ways the best thing to do is start from scratch, beside I will never have to do this again for as long as I am the owner... most likely

pits200

E-Brake replacements can be a bitch if you don't know how they are setup and if you don't pay attention to where all the small springs go. Also, make sure you follow the proper sprocket adjustment procedure or else they will drag much more than they are suppose to.

If you've never done this before, it will seem like it should be so easy but usually it ends up being harder trying to get the carter pin to line up properly while trying to get the shoes to stay in place.

Make sure you have a steady hand and a good set of needle nose pliers when you tackle this job.

pits200

Ha, mine are 9 years old also and my car has 203k miles on them and I don't think they'll ever need changed. Like azn said, you don't need much surface on those pads for them to still be usable and all that probably needs done is an adjustment.

I can understand why you want to try this job though, might as well do it now and get it out of the way.

Also, don't get frustrated with people when you call it a drum setup and they try telling you our car is a 4 wheel disc. You are misleading them when you call them drum brakes.

Allout

I use either spring tools for brakes or a set of vise grips to hold on to the springs so you can stretch/connect them. Don't forget to lube the backing plate where it contacts the shoe.

CLSspeedx

I just adjusted mine when I replaced the rear pads and rotors, works good now. There are springs to be removed. I briefly looked at that section in Helms. Let me know if you need any info from Helms.

pits200

You're right Allout, vice grips do work better to hold the pin because it lets you get some force behind it to compress the holder and not have that little bugger slip out.

I guess I didn't explain what part I was talking about, I just always have a problem trying to get the tiny bent end of the spring back into the shoe and that's what always gives me a problem and that's when I am always in need of needle noses and can't find them in my small garage.

As my mom always says, patience is a virtue and I have no patience at all when it comes to frustrating little things like that.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

oh well when it come to meticulous things such as that I am real good at putting Humpty Dumpty back together.

I'm getting the parts soon... gonna wait for my buddy to wake up tho so I can do the DIY cause he's my assistance and camera man.

pits200

Nice Nice Progession, glad to see you have your priorities straight and want to make this a DIY!!! Good luck

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

ok bad news I cannot do it today, it's too cold to do it, I got as far as the rotor off and my hands were way too cold after looking at all the intricate work. and I gotta go to see my nono(grandpa) who 30hrs ago went to the hospital and is in ICU.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

^
Sorry to hear that. Keep us updated.

Allout

I know exactly what you're talking about and I've had the same problem as you're describing. I eventually went out and bought the right tool for that task. It's the tool with the red handle that allows you to push and compress the spring while to spin the slotted retaining clip.

Allout

Best Wished to your Nono for a speedy recovery.

CH46ESeaKnight

Like I said, just make sure you only do one side at a time, or you'll be looking for pictures on line of how all the springs go. I once tore apart all four corners of drums brakes on my 69 Le Mans. That was a nightmare! Wish I had left one for referance.