How to install 2002 CLS fogs on 2003 CLS
Thread Starter
boosted is best
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,289
Likes: 4
From: .
How to install 2002 CLS running (aka accessory) lights on 2003 CLS.
=============================================
Correction: The original posted topic referred to the 2002 running/accessory lights as fog lights. A common mistake that's even made by Acura in their sales info. When I bought my 2001 CLS, they were called fog lights by Acura which was incorrect. However, the Acura parts list refers to them as light units and/or accessory lights.
So those of you who want to install the 2002 CLS accessory/running lights in your 2003 CLS, following the instructions below. All others looking for REAL fog light installs can still use the instructions for removal and installation and wiring info as may be applicable.
============================================
For those of you who were greatly disappointment to find out that Acura didn't offer the running lights (aka accessory lights ) on the 2003 CLS and were wondering what you could do, see instructions below.
There are a number of valid reasons for doing this install:
1) Greater nighttime visibility. Car is much more visible to other drivers with the 2002 running lights w/ PIAAs mounted.
2) The 2002 running lights w/ PIAAs illuminate the road just in front of the car where the headlights have a slight blind spot. This makes illumination more even from the bumper to where the headlights pick up their full illumination.
3) The 2003 CLS just looks better with the 2002 running lights mounted (IMHO), especially with the PIAA 19224 bulbs.
4) This install (2002 CLS running lights in 2003 CLS) is far less expensive in time and money than installing real fogs.
Apparently, there was only one state in the USA that didn't pass the 2003 CLS with running lights and that state was either AK or KT, I think. So Acura put in these useless fake vents where the running lights would have gone.
Like you might have been, I was a bit pissed off at Acura. But that didn't stop me from buying my 2003 CL Type-S 6 speed. So the day I picked up my car, I order the following parts:
Parts List
=============================================
1) Bulb (stock), 12V 5W, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33301-SA0-741, qty 2, ($3.36)
1A) Bulb, 12V 18W, P/N PIAA 19224, qty 2, ($15) (I installed these instead of the stock. They closely match the headlights in color)
2) Accessory/running light unit, right, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33901-S3M-A02, qty 1, ($35.18)
3) Accessory/running light unit, left, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33951-S3M-A02, qty 1, ($35.18)
4) Light Socket 2P, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 34303-SS1-003, qty 2, ($15)
5) Screw, self tapping 4x1, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 90333-SM3-003, ($5.38)
6) Automotive insulated stranded wire, 16 awg., black, 8 feet. ($3-4/roll)
7) Automotive insulated stranded wire, 16 awg., red, 8 feet. ($3-4/roll)
8) T-taps (in-line wire taps which receive a male fully insulated slip-on terminal), 16-14 awg, qty 4, ($2)
9) slip-on (fast-on), male, fully insulated, 16-14 awg, qty 4 ($2)
Please note: these terminals must fit the T-taps correctly
10) slip-on (fast-on), female, fully insulated, 16-14 awg, qty 4 ($2)
Please note: these terminals must fit the Light Socket listed above correctly.
11) Split spiral sheathing, 1/4 in., black, 8 feet ($2)
12) Plastic tie wraps, 6 in., qty 8 ($1)
13) Electrical tape, ($1)
Total cost for me was around $125, plus tax.
Tools required:
=============================================
1) Screw driver, standard, medium. (for removal of snap clips)
2) Screw driver, phillips, medium. (for removal of fake vents)
3) Wire cutters
4) Wire strippers
5) Terminal-wire crimper (for installation of slip-on terminals)
6) Pair of pliers (for installation of T-taps)
Running/Accessory Light Installation Instructions for 2003 CLS using 2002 CLS Running/Accessory Lights:
=============================================
PLEASE READ: Disclaimer: Above are the parts I used with the following steps. Although I have had good success with my installation and haven't run into any problems yet, anyone using the parts I used or any other parts and using my installation instructions as described below is solely responsible for their own installation and any problems that may result. In other words, I am NOT responsible for your installation issues or problems.
This installation doesn't require removing the headlight assemblies or the front bumper.
1) Open hood.
2) Remove plastic cover that goes across front, just behind both headlight assemblies and in front of the radiator and covers up the hood latch and hood release lever. There are 8 snap clips that need to be removed using a standard medium screw driver.
2a) There is a small plastic cover that needs to be removed just behind the right headlight assembly and next to the battery (looking back toward the front bumper and window shield). Remove the small snap click.
3) Each fake vent is held in place by a screw on the inside edge of the vent and a plastic tab on the outside edge of the vent. Remove fake vents on both side where running lights will go by unscrewing (counter clockwise) the phillips screw on inside edge of each fake vent until it disengages with the threaded clip on the bumper. There is a clear shot for the phillips screw driver to engage with the screw. One the left side, it's the upper left hand louver in the grill and on the right side, it's the upper right hand louver in the grill. In either louver, you should see a slot cutout that makes for a clear shot for the screw driver from the outside of the grill to the vent mounting screw.
4) Once screws have been disengaged from the threaded clips on the bumper, the vents should be popped out from the screw inside edge, away from the outside edge plastic tab on the vent.
5) Since Acura removed the running light wiring for 2003 CLS, an alternative wire tap will be necessary. Locate the headlight low beam wire pairs for the left and right side headlight assemblies, just behind the low beam connectors.
6) Using a pair of pliers, carefully install the T-taps onto each wire, about 2 inches away from the low beam connectors.
7) Route the split spiral sheathing from the low beam connectors to the opening for the running lights on both sides so you can get the correct length before installing wires. Leave enough slack before cutting.
8) Remove both pieces of split spiral sheathing from where you routed them. Then install a pair of black and red 16 awg. wires into each sheath, leaving about 2 inches of wire on either end of sheath.
9) Strip about 1/4 inch off of each wire end.
10) Crimp on the male slip-on terminals on one end and the female slip-on terminals on the other end.
11) Reroute the sheath with wires and use plastic ties in at least three places each, making sure sheaths don't come into contact with any sharp edges or hot surfaces. Allow for a few extra inches of slack on either end.
12) Fasten male slip-on terminals onto T-taps. Be care to fully engage male slip-on terminal tap into T-taps. They have the tendency to fold to one side if you don't have them aligned correctly. They should snap on securely.
13) Carefully wrap T-taps and male slip-on terminals with electrical tap to ensure they don't come loose. This will also provide additional weather proofing.
14) Install each light socket onto each pair of wires with female slip-on terminals - running light end.
15) Install the light bulb of your choice (stock or PIAA 19224 or whatever you decide to use).
16) Test your newly installed light bulbs, left and right sides by turning on headlights. Do this before continuing. Resolve all wiring issues before continuing.
17) Install a self tapping (4x1) screw into each running light unit until the thread just starts to protrude slightly.
18) Install a light socket into each running light unit.
19) Install each running light unit (left-hand and right-hand units) into the mounting hole, plastic tab end first. Be careful with the wires when you pop the running lights into place.
20) Engage each running light self tapping (4x1) screw into the threaded clip on the bumper. You may need to slightly move the running light unit around until screw engages with clip. You can also place your hand just behind the clip to feel how much the screw has engaged - should be about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
21) Reinstall small plastic cover that was removed in step 2a), using original small snap clip.
21a) Reinstall plastic cover that was removed in step 2), using original snap clips.
22) This is a nice to have. I didn't get a chance to do this yet but will probably install an inline fuse later. Since the PIAA 19224s draw about 1.5 amps (12vdc, 18w), I'd recommend using a 3 to 4 amp slo-blo fuse. I'd put the inline fuse housing on each side, just a few inches after the T-taps. You'll have to open up the sheath and splice the fuse wires into one of the wires on each side.
23) Another nice to have is to use the old fake vents and modify them to accept real fog lights like Tom2 suggested using Hella Micros. If I were to do this, I'd use a wireless remote switch, relay(s) and inline fuses. Another possibility would be to use the 2002 running lights and modify them so mini fogs could be mounted to the side of each. This would provide the best of two worlds, running lights and fog lights. I may look into this further to see if it's viable.
Running lights only turn on when low beams are turned on which is exactly how my stock 2001 CLS was. This install took me about four hours. But I spent a couple of hours looking at tapping into the mark lights in headlight assemblies, but this required removing bumper and headlight assemblies. This would have taken another two to three hours and I may have ended up breaking something.
I you have any question, don't hesitate to contact me in this thread.
Sorry, I don't have any pictures at this time.
-g
Correction: The original posted topic referred to the 2002 running/accessory lights as fog lights. A common mistake that's even made by Acura in their sales info. When I bought my 2001 CLS, they were called fog lights by Acura which was incorrect. However, the Acura parts list refers to them as light units and/or accessory lights.
So those of you who want to install the 2002 CLS accessory/running lights in your 2003 CLS, following the instructions below. All others looking for REAL fog light installs can still use the instructions for removal and installation and wiring info as may be applicable.
============================================
For those of you who were greatly disappointment to find out that Acura didn't offer the running lights (aka accessory lights ) on the 2003 CLS and were wondering what you could do, see instructions below.
There are a number of valid reasons for doing this install:
1) Greater nighttime visibility. Car is much more visible to other drivers with the 2002 running lights w/ PIAAs mounted.
2) The 2002 running lights w/ PIAAs illuminate the road just in front of the car where the headlights have a slight blind spot. This makes illumination more even from the bumper to where the headlights pick up their full illumination.
3) The 2003 CLS just looks better with the 2002 running lights mounted (IMHO), especially with the PIAA 19224 bulbs.
4) This install (2002 CLS running lights in 2003 CLS) is far less expensive in time and money than installing real fogs.
Apparently, there was only one state in the USA that didn't pass the 2003 CLS with running lights and that state was either AK or KT, I think. So Acura put in these useless fake vents where the running lights would have gone.
Like you might have been, I was a bit pissed off at Acura. But that didn't stop me from buying my 2003 CL Type-S 6 speed. So the day I picked up my car, I order the following parts:
Parts List
=============================================
1) Bulb (stock), 12V 5W, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33301-SA0-741, qty 2, ($3.36)
1A) Bulb, 12V 18W, P/N PIAA 19224, qty 2, ($15) (I installed these instead of the stock. They closely match the headlights in color)
2) Accessory/running light unit, right, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33901-S3M-A02, qty 1, ($35.18)
3) Accessory/running light unit, left, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 33951-S3M-A02, qty 1, ($35.18)
4) Light Socket 2P, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 34303-SS1-003, qty 2, ($15)
5) Screw, self tapping 4x1, Acura 2002 CLS, P/N 90333-SM3-003, ($5.38)
6) Automotive insulated stranded wire, 16 awg., black, 8 feet. ($3-4/roll)
7) Automotive insulated stranded wire, 16 awg., red, 8 feet. ($3-4/roll)
8) T-taps (in-line wire taps which receive a male fully insulated slip-on terminal), 16-14 awg, qty 4, ($2)
9) slip-on (fast-on), male, fully insulated, 16-14 awg, qty 4 ($2)
Please note: these terminals must fit the T-taps correctly
10) slip-on (fast-on), female, fully insulated, 16-14 awg, qty 4 ($2)
Please note: these terminals must fit the Light Socket listed above correctly.
11) Split spiral sheathing, 1/4 in., black, 8 feet ($2)
12) Plastic tie wraps, 6 in., qty 8 ($1)
13) Electrical tape, ($1)
Total cost for me was around $125, plus tax.
Tools required:
=============================================
1) Screw driver, standard, medium. (for removal of snap clips)
2) Screw driver, phillips, medium. (for removal of fake vents)
3) Wire cutters
4) Wire strippers
5) Terminal-wire crimper (for installation of slip-on terminals)
6) Pair of pliers (for installation of T-taps)
Running/Accessory Light Installation Instructions for 2003 CLS using 2002 CLS Running/Accessory Lights:
=============================================
PLEASE READ: Disclaimer: Above are the parts I used with the following steps. Although I have had good success with my installation and haven't run into any problems yet, anyone using the parts I used or any other parts and using my installation instructions as described below is solely responsible for their own installation and any problems that may result. In other words, I am NOT responsible for your installation issues or problems.
This installation doesn't require removing the headlight assemblies or the front bumper.
1) Open hood.
2) Remove plastic cover that goes across front, just behind both headlight assemblies and in front of the radiator and covers up the hood latch and hood release lever. There are 8 snap clips that need to be removed using a standard medium screw driver.
2a) There is a small plastic cover that needs to be removed just behind the right headlight assembly and next to the battery (looking back toward the front bumper and window shield). Remove the small snap click.
3) Each fake vent is held in place by a screw on the inside edge of the vent and a plastic tab on the outside edge of the vent. Remove fake vents on both side where running lights will go by unscrewing (counter clockwise) the phillips screw on inside edge of each fake vent until it disengages with the threaded clip on the bumper. There is a clear shot for the phillips screw driver to engage with the screw. One the left side, it's the upper left hand louver in the grill and on the right side, it's the upper right hand louver in the grill. In either louver, you should see a slot cutout that makes for a clear shot for the screw driver from the outside of the grill to the vent mounting screw.
4) Once screws have been disengaged from the threaded clips on the bumper, the vents should be popped out from the screw inside edge, away from the outside edge plastic tab on the vent.
5) Since Acura removed the running light wiring for 2003 CLS, an alternative wire tap will be necessary. Locate the headlight low beam wire pairs for the left and right side headlight assemblies, just behind the low beam connectors.
6) Using a pair of pliers, carefully install the T-taps onto each wire, about 2 inches away from the low beam connectors.
7) Route the split spiral sheathing from the low beam connectors to the opening for the running lights on both sides so you can get the correct length before installing wires. Leave enough slack before cutting.
8) Remove both pieces of split spiral sheathing from where you routed them. Then install a pair of black and red 16 awg. wires into each sheath, leaving about 2 inches of wire on either end of sheath.
9) Strip about 1/4 inch off of each wire end.
10) Crimp on the male slip-on terminals on one end and the female slip-on terminals on the other end.
11) Reroute the sheath with wires and use plastic ties in at least three places each, making sure sheaths don't come into contact with any sharp edges or hot surfaces. Allow for a few extra inches of slack on either end.
12) Fasten male slip-on terminals onto T-taps. Be care to fully engage male slip-on terminal tap into T-taps. They have the tendency to fold to one side if you don't have them aligned correctly. They should snap on securely.
13) Carefully wrap T-taps and male slip-on terminals with electrical tap to ensure they don't come loose. This will also provide additional weather proofing.
14) Install each light socket onto each pair of wires with female slip-on terminals - running light end.
15) Install the light bulb of your choice (stock or PIAA 19224 or whatever you decide to use).
16) Test your newly installed light bulbs, left and right sides by turning on headlights. Do this before continuing. Resolve all wiring issues before continuing.
17) Install a self tapping (4x1) screw into each running light unit until the thread just starts to protrude slightly.
18) Install a light socket into each running light unit.
19) Install each running light unit (left-hand and right-hand units) into the mounting hole, plastic tab end first. Be careful with the wires when you pop the running lights into place.
20) Engage each running light self tapping (4x1) screw into the threaded clip on the bumper. You may need to slightly move the running light unit around until screw engages with clip. You can also place your hand just behind the clip to feel how much the screw has engaged - should be about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
21) Reinstall small plastic cover that was removed in step 2a), using original small snap clip.
21a) Reinstall plastic cover that was removed in step 2), using original snap clips.
22) This is a nice to have. I didn't get a chance to do this yet but will probably install an inline fuse later. Since the PIAA 19224s draw about 1.5 amps (12vdc, 18w), I'd recommend using a 3 to 4 amp slo-blo fuse. I'd put the inline fuse housing on each side, just a few inches after the T-taps. You'll have to open up the sheath and splice the fuse wires into one of the wires on each side.
23) Another nice to have is to use the old fake vents and modify them to accept real fog lights like Tom2 suggested using Hella Micros. If I were to do this, I'd use a wireless remote switch, relay(s) and inline fuses. Another possibility would be to use the 2002 running lights and modify them so mini fogs could be mounted to the side of each. This would provide the best of two worlds, running lights and fog lights. I may look into this further to see if it's viable.
Running lights only turn on when low beams are turned on which is exactly how my stock 2001 CLS was. This install took me about four hours. But I spent a couple of hours looking at tapping into the mark lights in headlight assemblies, but this required removing bumper and headlight assemblies. This would have taken another two to three hours and I may have ended up breaking something.
I you have any question, don't hesitate to contact me in this thread.
Sorry, I don't have any pictures at this time.
-g
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 20,014
Likes: 0
From: Hellertown, Pa. USA
Great write-up, but why go through all that OEM part expense and labor instead of getting something aftermarket.
The stock 2001/2002 “road lamps” are nothing more then marker lights.
If I go through the trouble I’m gonna put PIAA’s or something in there.
You’re limited on bulbs in the stock housings because anything bright enough to function like a real FOG light will melt the housing.
Shawn S
The stock 2001/2002 “road lamps” are nothing more then marker lights.
If I go through the trouble I’m gonna put PIAA’s or something in there.
You’re limited on bulbs in the stock housings because anything bright enough to function like a real FOG light will melt the housing.
Shawn S
Unregistered Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,472
Likes: 45
From: New York
Yeah, why waste the time/money for those pathetic stock lights?
You should have gotten a set of Hella Micros and custom-cut them into the plastic "vent" that Acura put in place of your foglights.
That would have been badass
You should have gotten a set of Hella Micros and custom-cut them into the plastic "vent" that Acura put in place of your foglights.
That would have been badass
Thread Starter
boosted is best
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,289
Likes: 4
From: .
Originally posted by Shawn S
Great write-up, but why go through all that OEM part expense and labor instead of getting something aftermarket.
The stock 2001/2002 “road lamps” are nothing more then marker lights.
If I go through the trouble I’m gonna put PIAA’s or something in there.
You’re limited on bulbs in the stock housings because anything bright enough to function like a real FOG light will melt the housing.
Shawn S
Great write-up, but why go through all that OEM part expense and labor instead of getting something aftermarket.
The stock 2001/2002 “road lamps” are nothing more then marker lights.
If I go through the trouble I’m gonna put PIAA’s or something in there.
You’re limited on bulbs in the stock housings because anything bright enough to function like a real FOG light will melt the housing.
Shawn S
Also, since I've got the wiring in now, I could always take the suggestion that Tom2 made and install some real fogs in the fake vents. "... You should have gotten a set of Hella Micros and custom-cut them into the plastic "vent" that Acura put in place of your foglights..."
But this would required:
* Installing a remote (wireless) switch and control relay(s). I would go with the remote (wireless) switch because it wouldn't require tearing up the dash to route wires.
* Fuses to handle the extra current drawn by REAL fogs
* A lot more money than this install already cost me. The remote (wireless) switch, control relays and REAL fogs could cost well of $250.
thanks,
-g
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Thread Starter
boosted is best
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,289
Likes: 4
From: .
Originally posted by nate'sCLS
funny how everyone wants what they don't have...
funny how everyone wants what they don't have...
1) Greater nighttime visibility. Car is much more visible to other drivers with the 2002 fogs w/ PIAAs mounted.
2) The 2002 fogs w/ PIAAs illuminate the road just in front of the car where the headlights have a blind spot. This illumination is more even from the bumper to where the headlights pick up their full illumination.
3) The 2003 CLS just looks better with the 2002 fogs mounted.
4) This install (2002 CLS fogs in 2003 CLS) is far less expensive in time and money than installing real fogs.
5) Besides, most peope wants things that they don't have... like CT headers, exhaust, springs, sways, rims, tires, etc...
-g
Thread Starter
boosted is best
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,289
Likes: 4
From: .
Correction. I've been referring to the 2002 running/accessory lights as fog lights. A common mistake that's even made by Acura in their sales info. When I bought my 2001 CLS, they were called fog lights by Acura which was incorrect. However, the Acura parts list refers to them as light units and/or accessory lights.
So those of you who want to install the 2002 CLS accessory/running lights in your 2003 CLS, following the original posted instructions. All others looking for REAL fog light installs can still use the instructions in the original post to for removal and installation and wiring info.
-g
So those of you who want to install the 2002 CLS accessory/running lights in your 2003 CLS, following the original posted instructions. All others looking for REAL fog light installs can still use the instructions in the original post to for removal and installation and wiring info.
-g
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 20,014
Likes: 0
From: Hellertown, Pa. USA
Originally posted by cls6sp03
So I don't think it was a total waste of money or time.
So I don't think it was a total waste of money or time.
I’ve had the “fog” lights on my 2001 CL-S and I don’t miss them on my 2003.
I was hoping Acura would come out with a factory kit, but alas that hasn’t happened.
This summer I’m going to look into putting some kind of aftermarket lights on my car.
I’ve had one too many close calls with BAMBIE and other wildlife out by my house and I want some BRIGHT driving lights to put in there that are aimed out to the sides of the road.
I want it hooked up to the HIGH BEAM switch.
Shawn S
Thread Starter
boosted is best
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,289
Likes: 4
From: .
Originally posted by Shawn S
I wasn’t implying that you wasted your time, I was just wondering if you knew how little difference the lights actually made.
I’ve had the “fog” lights on my 2001 CL-S and I don’t miss them on my 2003.
I was hoping Acura would come out with a factory kit, but alas that hasn’t happened.
This summer I’m going to look into putting some kind of aftermarket lights on my car.
I’ve had one too many close calls with BAMBIE and other wildlife out by my house and I want some BRIGHT driving lights to put in there that are aimed out to the sides of the road.
I want it hooked up to the HIGH BEAM switch.
Shawn S
I wasn’t implying that you wasted your time, I was just wondering if you knew how little difference the lights actually made.
I’ve had the “fog” lights on my 2001 CL-S and I don’t miss them on my 2003.
I was hoping Acura would come out with a factory kit, but alas that hasn’t happened.
This summer I’m going to look into putting some kind of aftermarket lights on my car.
I’ve had one too many close calls with BAMBIE and other wildlife out by my house and I want some BRIGHT driving lights to put in there that are aimed out to the sides of the road.
I want it hooked up to the HIGH BEAM switch.
Shawn S
A general thanks goes out to all who have posted to this thread - regardless of your varying opinions. You've help me think about my current install and ways to improve upon it.
-g
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,135
Likes: 0
From: SAC, CA
Originally posted by cls6sp03
I think you're missing the point. There are a number of valid reasons for doing this:
1) Greater nighttime visibility. Car is much more visible to other drivers with the 2002 fogs w/ PIAAs mounted.
2) The 2002 fogs w/ PIAAs illuminate the road just in front of the car where the headlights have a blind spot. -g
I think you're missing the point. There are a number of valid reasons for doing this:
1) Greater nighttime visibility. Car is much more visible to other drivers with the 2002 fogs w/ PIAAs mounted.
2) The 2002 fogs w/ PIAAs illuminate the road just in front of the car where the headlights have a blind spot. -g
True, I have 18 watts and they do light up the very front of the car pretty well. But, I didn't know there is a difference between 2001 and 2002 lamps. My 2001's look pretty clear to me other than the "roadchips" that might act as diffusers
Cruisin'
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: saint john NB canada
I too wanted to add the "fog' lights to my 03 CL
after liking the look of TL. I bought the Acura lamps,sockets and Piaa bulbs. However your wiring would have the "fog" lights on all the time with LOW beam as the LOW BEAM are on when the HIGH BEAM are on as well.
I want to install a HOT fused line from the battery to a Relay. Then a power wire from the
steering column light switch low beam side connected to a switch on the dash to turn them off/on.
As well I have bought a pair of PIAA 2100X Driving lights to be installed on each side of the
front plate, lower vallis. I want to run a wire from the High Beam circut of the light swich to
a second switch for the Driving Lights.
I need the wire coding or diagram for the headlight switch in the steering column, Im sure I can access the wires at the base/lower dash.
Anyone with wiring info.
Brad L
Saint John NB
Canada
after liking the look of TL. I bought the Acura lamps,sockets and Piaa bulbs. However your wiring would have the "fog" lights on all the time with LOW beam as the LOW BEAM are on when the HIGH BEAM are on as well.
I want to install a HOT fused line from the battery to a Relay. Then a power wire from the
steering column light switch low beam side connected to a switch on the dash to turn them off/on.
As well I have bought a pair of PIAA 2100X Driving lights to be installed on each side of the
front plate, lower vallis. I want to run a wire from the High Beam circut of the light swich to
a second switch for the Driving Lights.
I need the wire coding or diagram for the headlight switch in the steering column, Im sure I can access the wires at the base/lower dash.
Anyone with wiring info.
Brad L
Saint John NB
Canada
Thread Starter
boosted is best
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,289
Likes: 4
From: .
On my 2001 CLS I traded in, the accessory lights were always on once the low beams were turned on. So switching the high beams on didn't have any affect on the accessory lights - they just remained on. So I didn't change the stock behavior based on the 2001 CLS.
But you do bring up an interesting idea. Now you've got me thinking of an easy way to make these accessory lights independently switched without having to mess around with a lot of wiring. I'm thinking that a wireless remote switch and relay would do the trick. You could still tap into the power of the low beams and switch accessory lights on with the remote switch and relay. Very little additional wiring needed.
-g
But you do bring up an interesting idea. Now you've got me thinking of an easy way to make these accessory lights independently switched without having to mess around with a lot of wiring. I'm thinking that a wireless remote switch and relay would do the trick. You could still tap into the power of the low beams and switch accessory lights on with the remote switch and relay. Very little additional wiring needed.
-g
Originally posted by badbrad
I too wanted to add the "fog' lights to my 03 CL
after liking the look of TL. I bought the Acura lamps,sockets and Piaa bulbs. However your wiring would have the "fog" lights on all the time with LOW beam as the LOW BEAM are on when the HIGH BEAM are on as well.
I want to install a HOT fused line from the battery to a Relay. Then a power wire from the
steering column light switch low beam side connected to a switch on the dash to turn them off/on.
As well I have bought a pair of PIAA 2100X Driving lights to be installed on each side of the
front plate, lower vallis. I want to run a wire from the High Beam circut of the light swich to
a second switch for the Driving Lights.
I need the wire coding or diagram for the headlight switch in the steering column, Im sure I can access the wires at the base/lower dash.
Anyone with wiring info.
Brad L
Saint John NB
Canada
I too wanted to add the "fog' lights to my 03 CL
after liking the look of TL. I bought the Acura lamps,sockets and Piaa bulbs. However your wiring would have the "fog" lights on all the time with LOW beam as the LOW BEAM are on when the HIGH BEAM are on as well.
I want to install a HOT fused line from the battery to a Relay. Then a power wire from the
steering column light switch low beam side connected to a switch on the dash to turn them off/on.
As well I have bought a pair of PIAA 2100X Driving lights to be installed on each side of the
front plate, lower vallis. I want to run a wire from the High Beam circut of the light swich to
a second switch for the Driving Lights.
I need the wire coding or diagram for the headlight switch in the steering column, Im sure I can access the wires at the base/lower dash.
Anyone with wiring info.
Brad L
Saint John NB
Canada
Thread Starter
boosted is best
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,289
Likes: 4
From: .
Maybe my memory has failed me, but I swear the lenses weren't clear, but a little diffused. I had a very early 2001 CLS bought back in the middle of May of 2000. Could they have changed the lenses?
-g
-g
Originally posted by nate'sCLS
True, I have 18 watts and they do light up the very front of the car pretty well. But, I didn't know there is a difference between 2001 and 2002 lamps. My 2001's look pretty clear to me other than the "roadchips" that might act as diffusers
True, I have 18 watts and they do light up the very front of the car pretty well. But, I didn't know there is a difference between 2001 and 2002 lamps. My 2001's look pretty clear to me other than the "roadchips" that might act as diffusers
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
So I just installed the housings, Im waiting for the pia bulbs in the mail and when they show up I'm going to wire the lights and go...
I want to hook them up so at dusk and dawn I can ride with my sides and fogs on... I think it looks sick, and other cars can see me better without me blinding anyone. but I dont want them on at all times. I also dont want them to flash with my sides when I click the alarm button.
so cliff notes... someone tell me their thoughts on this...
what if I used two relays, one on the side marker line, so that the lights would only turn on if the sides were on, and one in the dash, so I can choose to have my fogs on/off.
and is there any problem using the power from the sides... over drawing the fuse or such..?
I want to hook them up so at dusk and dawn I can ride with my sides and fogs on... I think it looks sick, and other cars can see me better without me blinding anyone. but I dont want them on at all times. I also dont want them to flash with my sides when I click the alarm button.
so cliff notes... someone tell me their thoughts on this...
what if I used two relays, one on the side marker line, so that the lights would only turn on if the sides were on, and one in the dash, so I can choose to have my fogs on/off.
and is there any problem using the power from the sides... over drawing the fuse or such..?
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