How the hell do you people downshift correctly?
07-01-2003, 07:44 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
How the hell do you people downshift correctly?
I can never seem to downshift smoothly or I'm too much of a chicken to get off the clutch and I slow down to the point that I'm going at a snails pace...
I have no idea how to "double clutch", etc...
Basically what I'm looking from you seasoned stick driver is some kind of a method...
Say you're in 4th and you have to make a right turn and you want to get down into 2nd. You want to take the turn semi-agressive. What are the steps you'd take to ensure a safe, smooth transition to 2nd from 4th??? When do you get out of 4th and into 2nd? Rev-matching??? How do you work with the clutch in this situation?
All this shit is new to me... I'm still a NOOOOOOOB!
Thanks all!
I have no idea how to "double clutch", etc...
Basically what I'm looking from you seasoned stick driver is some kind of a method...
Say you're in 4th and you have to make a right turn and you want to get down into 2nd. You want to take the turn semi-agressive. What are the steps you'd take to ensure a safe, smooth transition to 2nd from 4th??? When do you get out of 4th and into 2nd? Rev-matching??? How do you work with the clutch in this situation?
All this shit is new to me... I'm still a NOOOOOOOB!
Thanks all!
07-01-2003, 07:49 AM
#2
I now drive an accord....
1. Push in the clutch
2. Give it some gas to raise the RPM's to where you think they will be when you engage second gear
3. Move shifter to second gear while doing number 2
This is only how I do it, hope it helps
2. Give it some gas to raise the RPM's to where you think they will be when you engage second gear
3. Move shifter to second gear while doing number 2
This is only how I do it, hope it helps
07-01-2003, 07:54 AM
#3
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Well, normally you wouldn’t go from 4th to 2nd, but I can see the need on occasion if maybe the turn comes up quicker or is tighter then you expected.
Rev-Matching is the key, but it’s very hard to accurately explain.
Basically you “blip” the throttle to keep the revs up near 3,000 so that when you release the clutch in the lower gear it doesn’t compression brake using the engine.
This is IMPOSSIBLE to do with the 5-Speed Slush-Box “Sport-Shift” and one of the major reasons I hated that Tranny.
You will learn in time.
I have nearly 18-years and 400,000-miles of experience driving manuals and I still learn new tricks from time to time.
Shawn S
Rev-Matching is the key, but it’s very hard to accurately explain.
Basically you “blip” the throttle to keep the revs up near 3,000 so that when you release the clutch in the lower gear it doesn’t compression brake using the engine.
This is IMPOSSIBLE to do with the 5-Speed Slush-Box “Sport-Shift” and one of the major reasons I hated that Tranny.
You will learn in time.
I have nearly 18-years and 400,000-miles of experience driving manuals and I still learn new tricks from time to time.
Shawn S
07-01-2003, 07:55 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
Originally posted by spdy0001
1. Push in the clutch
2. Give it some gas to raise the RPM's to where you think they will be when you engage second gear
3. Move shifter to second gear while doing number 2
This is only how I do it, hope it helps
1. Push in the clutch
2. Give it some gas to raise the RPM's to where you think they will be when you engage second gear
3. Move shifter to second gear while doing number 2
This is only how I do it, hope it helps
07-01-2003, 07:59 AM
#5
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Originally posted by Scrib
But how does braking come into play??? Are you on the brake prior to this?
But how does braking come into play??? Are you on the brake prior to this?
Shawn S
07-01-2003, 08:04 AM
#7
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Yes, usually. If you're not, you're probably going too fast in 4th gear to safely turn.....or you're going way too slow for 4th gear (i.e. below 2K).
Generally, I brake while approaching a turn, downshift and power through the turn. Keeping your revs up (3K+) when slipping into 2nd is key. Without it, you'll cause the car to lunge and jerk.
It might help to slip into 3rd while slowing down prior to the turn, then pulling it into 2nd while actually making the turn. It's a lot of motions (hands, feet) and it takes some practice to do well, but the rewards are more than just that stupid grin you'll have on your face when you figure it out!
Generally, I brake while approaching a turn, downshift and power through the turn. Keeping your revs up (3K+) when slipping into 2nd is key. Without it, you'll cause the car to lunge and jerk.
It might help to slip into 3rd while slowing down prior to the turn, then pulling it into 2nd while actually making the turn. It's a lot of motions (hands, feet) and it takes some practice to do well, but the rewards are more than just that stupid grin you'll have on your face when you figure it out!
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07-01-2003, 08:06 AM
#8
Cost Drivers!!!!
scrib,
bascially you have 2 options:
1- downshift early and go through the turn in 2nd gear but you have to time this right otherwise you'll be getting on brakes because you are going too fast.
2- slow down to the speed at which you want to take the turn and then downshift.
Option 2 is the smoother of the two and generally the less aggressive of the two. With as much trq as your car has I really would opt for it rather than option 1.
Of course by going from 4>2 you'll do the following:
0.clutch-in
1. take the car out of gear
1a. clutch-out
2. put the stick in neutral
3. blip the throttle to rev match
4. put the car into gear and you SHOULD have a smooth transition
bascially you have 2 options:
1- downshift early and go through the turn in 2nd gear but you have to time this right otherwise you'll be getting on brakes because you are going too fast.
2- slow down to the speed at which you want to take the turn and then downshift.
Option 2 is the smoother of the two and generally the less aggressive of the two. With as much trq as your car has I really would opt for it rather than option 1.
Of course by going from 4>2 you'll do the following:
0.clutch-in
1. take the car out of gear
1a. clutch-out
2. put the stick in neutral
3. blip the throttle to rev match
4. put the car into gear and you SHOULD have a smooth transition
07-01-2003, 08:11 AM
#9
Where is my super sauce?
Originally posted by Stock03CLS
Yes, usually. If you're not, you're probably going too fast in 4th gear to safely turn.....or you're going way too slow for 4th gear (i.e. below 2K).
Generally, I brake while approaching a turn, downshift and power through the turn. Keeping your revs up (3K+) when slipping into 2nd is key. Without it, you'll cause the car to lunge and jerk.
It might help to slip into 3rd while slowing down prior to the turn, then pulling it into 2nd while actually making the turn. It's a lot of motions (hands, feet) and it takes some practice to do well, but the rewards are more than just that stupid grin you'll have on your face when you figure it out!
Yes, usually. If you're not, you're probably going too fast in 4th gear to safely turn.....or you're going way too slow for 4th gear (i.e. below 2K).
Generally, I brake while approaching a turn, downshift and power through the turn. Keeping your revs up (3K+) when slipping into 2nd is key. Without it, you'll cause the car to lunge and jerk.
It might help to slip into 3rd while slowing down prior to the turn, then pulling it into 2nd while actually making the turn. It's a lot of motions (hands, feet) and it takes some practice to do well, but the rewards are more than just that stupid grin you'll have on your face when you figure it out!
You can let your brake pedal (ie: slow down!) and syncros do the work. Just let up slowly on the clutch if you're at the wrong speed for the gear. Once you decide that allowing the syncros do all the work is uncomfortable (see above paragraph 2 - lunge and jerk), then rev matching will come naturally.
07-01-2003, 08:17 AM
#10
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Thread Starter
Another question... But this is more on the upshifting side.
I tend to the let the clutch out REALLY SLOW when driving.
Clutch in --> up to third ---> and sllllllllloooooowwwwly off the thrid pedal. It's nice and smooth, but how is this for clutch life? There's no gear grinding, no jerkyness, nada... but am I doing more damage than good?
I've seriously NEVER had a lesson on a stick, so I figure this is the best place to ask.
I tend to the let the clutch out REALLY SLOW when driving.
Clutch in --> up to third ---> and sllllllllloooooowwwwly off the thrid pedal. It's nice and smooth, but how is this for clutch life? There's no gear grinding, no jerkyness, nada... but am I doing more damage than good?
I've seriously NEVER had a lesson on a stick, so I figure this is the best place to ask.
07-01-2003, 08:19 AM
#11
I now drive an accord....
Originally posted by Zapata
0.clutch-in
1. take the car out of gear
1a. clutch-out
2. put the stick in neutral
3. blip the throttle to rev match
4. put the car into gear and you SHOULD have a smooth transition
0.clutch-in
1. take the car out of gear
1a. clutch-out
2. put the stick in neutral
3. blip the throttle to rev match
4. put the car into gear and you SHOULD have a smooth transition
There is certainly no need for so many steps in our car
07-01-2003, 08:21 AM
#12
I now drive an accord....
Originally posted by Scrib
Another question... But this is more on the upshifting side.
I tend to the let the clutch out REALLY SLOW when driving.
Clutch in --> up to third ---> and sllllllllloooooowwwwly off the thrid pedal. It's nice and smooth, but how is this for clutch life? There's no gear grinding, no jerkyness, nada... but am I doing more damage than good?
I've seriously NEVER had a lesson on a stick, so I figure this is the best place to ask.
Another question... But this is more on the upshifting side.
I tend to the let the clutch out REALLY SLOW when driving.
Clutch in --> up to third ---> and sllllllllloooooowwwwly off the thrid pedal. It's nice and smooth, but how is this for clutch life? There's no gear grinding, no jerkyness, nada... but am I doing more damage than good?
I've seriously NEVER had a lesson on a stick, so I figure this is the best place to ask.
07-01-2003, 08:29 AM
#13
Where is my super sauce?
Eventually this all becomes second nature, even the advanced techniques.
...and most of us figure them out over years of driving in a variety of situations.
Patience, grasshopper. It sounds like you're doing fine in the big scheme of things.
...and most of us figure them out over years of driving in a variety of situations.
Patience, grasshopper. It sounds like you're doing fine in the big scheme of things.
07-01-2003, 08:32 AM
#14
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Thread Starter
Originally posted by Slimey
Patience, grasshopper. It sounds like you're doing fine in the big scheme of things.
Patience, grasshopper. It sounds like you're doing fine in the big scheme of things.
But I wanna learn the fun tricks...
07-01-2003, 08:43 AM
#15
Where is my super sauce?
Originally posted by Scrib
But I wanna learn the fun tricks...
But I wanna learn the fun tricks...
But you'll figure it out.
Oh, and on double clutching -- IMHO, absolutely unnecessary on a car built in the last few decades. Delete this concept from your brain. When people mention these words I think they are either little ricer boys who actually paid money to see F&F or truckers from the 1950s.
ABSOLUTELY UNNECESSARY.
07-01-2003, 09:46 AM
#16
Originally posted by Slimey
Yes, I know.
But you'll figure it out.
Oh, and on double clutching -- IMHO, absolutely unnecessary on a car built in the last few decades. Delete this concept from your brain. When people mention these words I think they are either little ricer boys who actually paid money to see F&F or truckers from the 1950s.
ABSOLUTELY UNNECESSARY.
Yes, I know.
But you'll figure it out.
Oh, and on double clutching -- IMHO, absolutely unnecessary on a car built in the last few decades. Delete this concept from your brain. When people mention these words I think they are either little ricer boys who actually paid money to see F&F or truckers from the 1950s.
ABSOLUTELY UNNECESSARY.
If you watch people who really know how to drive a car in true road racing conditions with current cars like BMWs, Porsches, Audis, etc... they all double clutch. MT are basically the same today as they were 20 years ago, gears and syncros. In race conditions, NOT double clutching would probably result in excessive syncros wear.
07-01-2003, 09:52 AM
#17
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Originally posted by spdy0001
Putting the stick in neutral and letting out on the clutch, then reving, then push the clutch back in and shift into gear..........WOW what a waste of time
There is certainly no need for so many steps in our car
Putting the stick in neutral and letting out on the clutch, then reving, then push the clutch back in and shift into gear..........WOW what a waste of time
There is certainly no need for so many steps in our car
There is absolutely NO need to take the depress the clutch before putting the gear in second. The transmission has all types of syncros that do this for us. Maybe 20 years ago you would do this, but not on new cars. All you have to do is:1) press the clutch
2) blip the throttle
3) throw the gear in 2nd
4) depress the clutch (pretty quickly)
The blip of the throttle will get the revs to match up well so there is no need to granny shift. Of course this only works when you are in downshifting into a pretty high rpm count, like 4k+.
07-01-2003, 09:53 AM
#18
Cost Drivers!!!!
Originally posted by spdy0001
Putting the stick in neutral and letting out on the clutch, then reving, then push the clutch back in and shift into gear..........WOW what a waste of time
There is certainly no need for so many steps in our car
Putting the stick in neutral and letting out on the clutch, then reving, then push the clutch back in and shift into gear..........WOW what a waste of time
There is certainly no need for so many steps in our car
07-01-2003, 09:53 AM
#19
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The thing that'll make your shifts the smoothest is getting the feel for the car and making your shifts at or near the "sweetspot" RPM. Too far to either direction and your car will jerk. There is no fixed number, it's all dependant upon how fast the car is going at the time. The closer you can get the revs to where they should be in your target gear, the smoother it'll all be, regardless of how fast you let out the clutch. This is kind of an intermediate topic, and it really varies from car-to-car. But, the good news is that once you learn how to find that point, you can figure it out on just about any car.
It's all about finesse and knowing your vehicle. Automatic transmissions are about pointing a car and telling it how fast to go. Manual transmissions are about driving the car and being in control of the car. It takes a little work but the rewards are well worth it. Practice, practice, practice.
BTW, letting the clutch out too slowly will probably cause it to wear out faster than a more "normal" engagement speed. Letting it out too fast isn't too good either. That's not to say you'll never do either of those things, but don't make it a habit. There are better ways to get smooth shifts than to ride the clutch on its way out.
It's all about finesse and knowing your vehicle. Automatic transmissions are about pointing a car and telling it how fast to go. Manual transmissions are about driving the car and being in control of the car. It takes a little work but the rewards are well worth it. Practice, practice, practice.
BTW, letting the clutch out too slowly will probably cause it to wear out faster than a more "normal" engagement speed. Letting it out too fast isn't too good either. That's not to say you'll never do either of those things, but don't make it a habit. There are better ways to get smooth shifts than to ride the clutch on its way out.
07-01-2003, 09:55 AM
#20
Cost Drivers!!!!
Originally posted by cls6sp03
IMHO, you don't know what you're talking about!!!
If you watch people who really know how to drive a car in true road racing conditions with current cars like BMWs, Porsches, Audis, etc... they all double clutch. MT are basically the same today as they were 20 years ago, gears and syncros. In race conditions, NOT double clutching would probably result in excessive syncros wear.
IMHO, you don't know what you're talking about!!!
If you watch people who really know how to drive a car in true road racing conditions with current cars like BMWs, Porsches, Audis, etc... they all double clutch. MT are basically the same today as they were 20 years ago, gears and syncros. In race conditions, NOT double clutching would probably result in excessive syncros wear.
Guess that's why BMW implemented it in SMG huh?
07-01-2003, 09:58 AM
#21
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I NEVER double clutch. I agree that it’s a waste of time and unnecessary.
Probably wastes a bit of gas too because of all the extra “blips” that you need to do to rev-match all the time.
Shawn S
Probably wastes a bit of gas too because of all the extra “blips” that you need to do to rev-match all the time.
Shawn S
07-01-2003, 10:00 AM
#22
Where is my super sauce?
Originally posted by cls6sp03
...NOT double clutching would probably result in excessive syncros wear.
...NOT double clutching would probably result in excessive syncros wear.
Did you know that your engine also wears every time you start it up? My car also consumes gasoline on a daily basis. One day, I may have to change my tires because they are worn. Brakes too. You know, one day the water pump might go. I better turn that off before it causes some problems!
Cars are meant to be used. If you want to save that syncro gear so it lasts 300K miles instead of 250K miles, go ahead.
You paid money to see F&F, didn't you?
07-01-2003, 10:02 AM
#23
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Originally posted by cls6sp03
IMHO, you don't know what you're talking about!!!
If you watch people who really know how to drive a car in true road racing conditions with current cars like BMWs, Porsches, Audis, etc... they all double clutch. MT are basically the same today as they were 20 years ago, gears and syncros. In race conditions, NOT double clutching would probably result in excessive syncros wear.
IMHO, you don't know what you're talking about!!!
If you watch people who really know how to drive a car in true road racing conditions with current cars like BMWs, Porsches, Audis, etc... they all double clutch. MT are basically the same today as they were 20 years ago, gears and syncros. In race conditions, NOT double clutching would probably result in excessive syncros wear.
The comment on double-clutching is that such practices are absolutely unneccessary in driving modern street cars because of synchros and better engineering. I don't know anyone who drives a modern manual transmission who double-clutches. There is no need. (heavy trucks and semis being the possible exceptions)
07-01-2003, 10:14 AM
#24
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Originally posted by Stock03CLS
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems to me that for racing (which is not what we're talking about here), things like synchros would add weight and complexity to the car, thereby jeopardizing the car's chances of winning. Weight is, afterall, the enemy. Every pound counts. And in high-stress situations like racing, wouldn't simpler ultimately be better? Do racing trannys even have synchros?
The comment on double-clutching is that such practices are absolutely unneccessary in driving modern street cars because of synchros and better engineering. I don't know anyone who drives a modern manual transmission who double-clutches. There is no need. (heavy trucks and semis being the possible exceptions)
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems to me that for racing (which is not what we're talking about here), things like synchros would add weight and complexity to the car, thereby jeopardizing the car's chances of winning. Weight is, afterall, the enemy. Every pound counts. And in high-stress situations like racing, wouldn't simpler ultimately be better? Do racing trannys even have synchros?
The comment on double-clutching is that such practices are absolutely unneccessary in driving modern street cars because of synchros and better engineering. I don't know anyone who drives a modern manual transmission who double-clutches. There is no need. (heavy trucks and semis being the possible exceptions)
07-01-2003, 10:52 AM
#26
Cost Drivers!!!!
Listen, ya'll CAN NOT tell me the tranny shifts smoother when you don't double clutch and rev match. Don't give me modern tech. this and syncros that........how soon everybody seems to have confidence in auto tech. now when people will bash auto manfacturers for everything under the sun! Please................
07-01-2003, 11:02 AM
#27
I now drive an accord....
Now your just being stupidThe car can be shifted with nothing more than pushing in the clutch and shifting to the desired gear.
Rev matching makes this process a little smoother and double clutching is completely stupid and a waste of time, well unless your vin desiel and you live your life a 1/4 mile at a time
07-01-2003, 11:08 AM
#28
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You do not need to double clutch. THATS WHY YOUR TRANSMISSION HAS SYNCHONIZERS.
1. Take foot off gas and depress clutch
2. Shift to appropriate gear. (Make sure your speed is appropriate.
3. Blip throttle just a bit. Knowing how much takes trial and error and practice. Find someone who has driven manuals for a long time. Not an "internet expert"
4. Release clutch. Our clutch grabs suddenly (unusual). You must learn where the engagement point is and slow your release at the point. Then release fully.
To learn about our clutch, find a parking lot. Practice starts with no gas. You will learn engagement point.
1. Take foot off gas and depress clutch
2. Shift to appropriate gear. (Make sure your speed is appropriate.
3. Blip throttle just a bit. Knowing how much takes trial and error and practice. Find someone who has driven manuals for a long time. Not an "internet expert"
4. Release clutch. Our clutch grabs suddenly (unusual). You must learn where the engagement point is and slow your release at the point. Then release fully.
To learn about our clutch, find a parking lot. Practice starts with no gas. You will learn engagement point.
07-01-2003, 11:35 AM
#32
Where is my super sauce?
Originally posted by Scrib
This is one of the better threads in recent memory... A good discussion and not a flame war...
:bubbarubb
This is one of the better threads in recent memory... A good discussion and not a flame war...
:bubbarubb
No more shifting secrets for you!
:flame war mode on: :flamer:
I'm joking.
07-01-2003, 11:46 AM
#33
Cost Drivers!!!!
Originally posted by spdy0001
Now your just being stupid
The car can be shifted with nothing more than pushing in the clutch and shifting to the desired gear.
Rev matching makes this process a little smoother and double clutching is completely stupid and a waste of time, well unless your vin desiel and you live your life a 1/4 mile at a time
Now your just being stupidThe car can be shifted with nothing more than pushing in the clutch and shifting to the desired gear.
Rev matching makes this process a little smoother and double clutching is completely stupid and a waste of time, well unless your vin desiel and you live your life a 1/4 mile at a time
http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/Volvo_Books/trans1.html
The most common sign of manual transmission wear is the "crunch" of synchronizers heard during downshifts. Synchronizer problems often start out as minor irritations, building into major worries as the cost of a rebuild is realized.
The aim of this maintenance tip is to advise readers of ways to significantly
FACTORS AFFECTING SYNCHRO WEAR
Synchronizers will wear slowly under normal driving conditions. Fast shifting will place greater strain on synchronizers as will marginal lubrication and the presence of dirt or particulate in the transmission fluid. Owners wishing to prolong the life of gearbox internals, therefore, are reminded not to "force" shifts or speed shift without using the clutch. Bi-annual transmission fluid changes are also a good way to keep synchronizers functional.
In addition to regular care, a shifting technique called "double-clutching" can significantly reduce - or eliminate - strain on synchronizers. In cases where synchronizers are already showing signs of acute wear, double-clutching can prevent the onset of more serious problems such as broken gear sets.
Now we have people talkingn about WASTED GAS?#@!$@#$#@@# abaehaehehaehaeh perhaps people shouldn't have 80lb chrome rims if the concern about wasted gas. :shakehd:
07-01-2003, 11:48 AM
#34
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Thread Starter
Originally posted by Slimey
Hey, Wait, You don't even own a CL any more!!!
No more shifting secrets for you!
:flame war mode on: :flamer:
I'm joking.
Hey, Wait, You don't even own a CL any more!!!
No more shifting secrets for you!
:flame war mode on: :flamer:
I'm joking.
07-01-2003, 12:02 PM
#35
Where is my super sauce?
Scrib -- Here you go, my padawan learner:
http://www.turnfast.com/tech_driving..._heeltoe.lasso
Nice diagram of heel/toe with shifter pattern.
NB:
1. I don't advocate learning this right away. I consider this somewhat 'advanced' and would really recommend becoming one with your clutch and shifter first.
2. I agree with the statement about learning from a non internet based program. Find someone to show you.
3. Notice in the article their discussion about double clutching. Unnecessary in a street car with transmission syncros.
4. Note also how they state double clutching would be necessary on a race circuit as others have already stated (no syncros).
http://www.turnfast.com/tech_driving..._heeltoe.lasso
Nice diagram of heel/toe with shifter pattern.
NB:
1. I don't advocate learning this right away. I consider this somewhat 'advanced' and would really recommend becoming one with your clutch and shifter first.
2. I agree with the statement about learning from a non internet based program. Find someone to show you.
3. Notice in the article their discussion about double clutching. Unnecessary in a street car with transmission syncros.
4. Note also how they state double clutching would be necessary on a race circuit as others have already stated (no syncros).
07-01-2003, 12:09 PM
#36
Where is my super sauce?
Originally posted by Zapata
...Moreover the gears within the tranny are rotating at different speeds. From howstuffworks.com A synchro's purpose is to allow the collar and the gear to make frictional contact before the dog teeth make contact. The entire tranny is connected. Syncros are connected to the dog teeth etc., The stress doesn't just disappear.....it's passed on down the line. Suprised there is any argument here at all, especially since there are so many "supposed" engineers making them...
...Moreover the gears within the tranny are rotating at different speeds. From howstuffworks.com A synchro's purpose is to allow the collar and the gear to make frictional contact before the dog teeth make contact. The entire tranny is connected. Syncros are connected to the dog teeth etc., The stress doesn't just disappear.....it's passed on down the line. Suprised there is any argument here at all, especially since there are so many "supposed" engineers making them...
And the post from the Volvo site -- of course double clutching keeps your syncros from wearing. But this goes back to my bozo statement from before -- should I turn off my water pump because using it wears it down? No. Syncros, just like most other parts of the car, are meant to be used. Bypass them if you want, but I don't understand the point.
Of course if you really love to double clutch, I sure you can find someone to remove your syncros or replace your tranny to one that is syncro free. Think of all the weight you'd free up.
07-01-2003, 12:19 PM
#37
Unregistered Member
Zapata,
You sound like someone that just learned to drive a stick.....quoting "how-stuff-works"
If you're so damn worried about syncro wear that you find the need to double clutch all the time, then maybe you should look up "throw-out bearings" in how-stuff-works. All that "wear" that you're saving on your syncros gets offset by the increased wear on your throw-out bearing.
Scrib,
Here's some advice for you:
1) There is no need to double clutch your trans in normal driving situations. If you beat on your tranny, and your synchros begin to weaken/fail (obviously accompanied by a grinding sound between shifts), then you might want to think about double clutching until you can have your synchros properly repaired.
2) In normal driving, you should downshift before entering a turn. As you become an advanced driver, you can learn other techniques
3) Getting advice on shifting techniques here is nearly retarded. Find someone that you know personally that knows how to drive manuals (preferably an enthusiast) and that you trust and ask him/her for advice. This place is just too full of know-it-alls who probably have just learned themselves.
You sound like someone that just learned to drive a stick.....quoting "how-stuff-works"
If you're so damn worried about syncro wear that you find the need to double clutch all the time, then maybe you should look up "throw-out bearings" in how-stuff-works. All that "wear" that you're saving on your syncros gets offset by the increased wear on your throw-out bearing.
Scrib,
Here's some advice for you:
1) There is no need to double clutch your trans in normal driving situations. If you beat on your tranny, and your synchros begin to weaken/fail (obviously accompanied by a grinding sound between shifts), then you might want to think about double clutching until you can have your synchros properly repaired.
2) In normal driving, you should downshift before entering a turn. As you become an advanced driver, you can learn other techniques
3) Getting advice on shifting techniques here is nearly retarded. Find someone that you know personally that knows how to drive manuals (preferably an enthusiast) and that you trust and ask him/her for advice. This place is just too full of know-it-alls who probably have just learned themselves.
07-01-2003, 12:39 PM
#38
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Location: Hellertown, Pa. USA
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Originally posted by Zapata
especially since there are so many "supposed" engineers making them.............
Now we have people talkingn about WASTED GAS..........
perhaps people shouldn't have 80lb chrome rims if the concern about wasted gas.........
especially since there are so many "supposed" engineers making them.............
Now we have people talkingn about WASTED GAS..........
perhaps people shouldn't have 80lb chrome rims if the concern about wasted gas.........
Shawn S
