Everyone rely on dyno chart for HP & Torque gain or losses. How do we know if dyno machine is accurate? I have seen weird before and after dyno chart. We took a CL-S 6sp with AEM intake and Comptech headers to get it dyno. We then swap out the AEM intake for a Comptech Ice box and added Comptech cat back exhaust and Unorthodox 3 pieces lighten pulleys. We went back to the same dyno and dyno the car under similar conditions (being similar temperature). It lost 5 HP and gain 5ft/lb torque? What is going on? anyone know a good dyno place in So Cal?

 

Thank you for posting the question for me. I was going to post a new thread later on but anyway, here is my true story.


Dynoed 1/16/03 SP Engineering
Everything listed in signature EXCEPT B-Pipe, and UR pulley (AEM intake i/o CT Icebox)


Dynoed 1/24/03 SP Engineering
Everthing listed in signature + 5 gallons of 100 Octane gas



I was so pissed when I get the second dyno result
Spent extra money and time and get negative result! WTF!!!

I am thinking should I go anywhere else for dyno again?

 

Don't know, but I doubt the dyno these #'s came from was very accurate
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6447

 

the general consensus around the industry is everyone basically uses dynojet dyno's. I think most also recalibrate them every 6 months or every year. There are more accurate and less accurate dyno's out. I've even seen dyno's so accurate you can see the difference when you turn your headlights on and off

 

best dyno place in so cal.

www.rddyno.com

everyone I know uses them.

 

in all honesty the gas may be the problem. The car may not be able to burn it fast enough and the ECU may be playing tricks on you. The car isn't FI no real need for it. For example one of the big 3 magazines did a test on gas octanes a few years back. They took a stock accord v6 and dyno'd it on 87 octane. They lossed 10 HP when they then did a dyno right afterwards w/ 91 octane. The car simply isn't setup to burn that kind of fuel fast enough. I would think the type S may be able to since it runs on high octane to start w/ and w/ the high compression it should love the octane, but maybe not.


It also appears that the catback is probably robbing you of power as the stock unit flows great to begin w/.

You sure dropped that relatively flat torque curve you had!!!

 

6spdmanual now that I see those two chart together, they look very different. Did they change their dyno? or maybe just the printer? Don't be piss this is part of the game. I probably will dyno at 237 whp 10hp less then before. That 3.5L swap, the newly cut supercharge pulley and the UR pulley set may just loose hp at the dyno. Hey if it makes you feel better, you can laugh at me when I dyno less

 

Yeah they look different. Or should we go to R&D for dyno again?

 

Let's check out R&D Dyno. Let call them, I can't find their address.

 

tech@rddyno.com.

R&D Dyno Service
115 E Gardena Blvd
Gardena, CA 90248
Phone: (310) 516-1003

I just send them an email.

 

sgmotoring,

You lost power not because of the mods or the dyno... It is because your IMRC is dead!... your CLS need to be fixed. Ask Scalbert.... or make a search for IMRC!

Your second stage intake manifold intake valve ("flap") is not opening at 3800 rpms.

Nashua.

 

Get your IMRC fixed as Nashua pointed out. That is, without a doubt, a busted IMRC system (most likely the actuator. Look at the original, it has a small dip just before 4k revs but recovers. But in your second one it drops out completely. The IMRC plates open at 3800 RPM which they are obviously not doing in your car.

Your car was making more power below 3800 RPM; with the IMRC fixed it should make more power up high too.

 

genuises!

 

Yep, 6spdmanual just check his IMRC and he told me it's dead. Does that mean I am going to loose 10whp with my IMRC close ? We are going to get our car dyno agian tomorrow and I am going to manually open the IMRC for his car. I think all he care is max hp.

 

Take the manifold cover off and remove the plates. I would love to see the losses below 3800 on the dyno but then it would be fine from then on up.

 

Nashua and Scalbert are right - the IMRC is broke. See below for new dyno today.

http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...hreadid=128799