Blood Type-S

After reading numerous reviews on the 95 Legend calipers I decided this would be an easy DIY. So far, not as easy nor as much fun as I was hoping for.

Got the 2 piston Legend calipers, Rotora slotted rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads and Goodridge stainless steel lines.

It was an easy install, but the pedal was mushy so I bled them twice (around 15 pumps each) from 1.) rear right 2.) rear left 3.) front right 4. ) front left. The pedal was mushy going all the way to the floor and the brakes only kicked in after 3 to 4 pumps.

Thinking that I may not have bleed all the air out, I took the car into the shop. They bled the system twice. Still no improvement on pedal or stopping.

Thinking that the remanufactured calipers were faulty, I took them off and put the stock calipers back on. Bled the system again. Still no improvement on pedal or stopping power.

AAARRRGGHH!!! What the heck is going on? Any advice or suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

The only thing that I can think is that something is wrong with the brake lines. I did check for kinks (none) and for leaks (none). Plus I'm not losing any fluid from the master cylinder.

pits200

Hmm, so your reserve is filled with brake fluid. Dumb question, make sure its dot 4.
Umm, if you're not leaking and you didnt puncture your brake lines.
It has to be air in the system, are you sure that the people are constantly keeping the master cylinder full of brake fluid when they are bleeding it.

Also, what method did you use to bleed the brakes. Because this is the only area where there can be an issue. If the master cylinder isnt busted and you have no leaks, by way of elimination it has to be the bleeding process or bad calipers.

But you said you put your old calipers on, so I am just trying to deduce what it might be. Good luck, maybe u can give us more details

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

At anytime did you run the master cylinder dry? Cause if you did & you got air into the brake booster, your screwed. This can only be bled by a special machine(dealer) to get the air out.

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like there is a ton of air in there. When I had my set up installed, a local mechanic did it, and he said it wasn't too tough, but he had a pressure bleeder. When I had them removed, it took forever to bleed it with one of the cheep bleeder.

Definately make sure you used the correct fluid. I heard some great stories about using the wrong one.

And I agree with pits that it seems like the problem is not the calipers.

Good luck, keep us posted. And I can say from experience that you would appreciate the extra stopping power of this set-up vs stock.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

I'd be willing to bet you the let the master cylinder go dry while you were bleeding. You have to keep that master cylinder full or as you bleed out the lines (without keeping the cylinder full) you will be sending more air in the lines and the MC. Now you have air in your MC more than likely.

Blood Type-S

Thanks for the responses everyone. I came to the same conclusion late last night that I probably got air into the MC, which would have made the normal bleed pretty much worthless.

I went to the dealer today who completed the flush and the braking power is definitely restored.

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

How does it feel?

Also, be prepared to eat through those brake pads. I did with the NSX calipers.

mclarenf3387

Just FYI, the bleed process for the brakes on our cars is the opposite of what you listed.

On the CLs, you start closest to the master cylinder (front drivers side) and work to the farthest caliper (rear passenger side).

Blood Type-S

Brakes feel much better, unfortunately my comparison the past couple of days have been pushing the the brake pedal to the ground and praying that the car will stop.
Yeah, I read your post about eating through EBC pads, oh well still a good upgrade.


I saw the post and the scans of the repair manual, though I wasn't sure about the logic behind it. I decided to follow conventional wisdom bleeding from the longest to shortest line. I guess in the end it didn't really matter since I had the dealer power flush the system anyways.

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

I don't think you'll mind eating up those pads. I liked them a lot. I would definately get them again. Low on dust, noise and good on stopping.

RKeatF1

Are the calipers a n easy swap?
Or do you have to change other things.

superfob

Where did you find the calipers? I was thinking of getting some from Kragen Auto Parts.

4ank

I'd like to know this as well. Also, is there a DIY out there? And what does something like this run total dollar?

4ank

Also -- can you provide the part numbers?

livinglegend

Are the rotors and the pads NEW? you can get a spongy pedal if you do not machine the rotors and just replace the pads... . If the brake pedal was depressed "fully" to bleed the brakes it is possible you may have ruined the seal internally within the master. Also.. make sure the calipers you bought are not bent.

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

I found my NSX calipers on one of the NSX forums. You can find them on e-bay from time to time. They can be anything from $200 to $400 depending on the condition they are in. The ones I got were in perfect condition.

I paid about $850 for all the parts for mine. I got calipers, rotors, brake lines and pads. Of course a BBK would be better, but this is about half the cost.

I had a local machenic do the install and he had it done in about 2 hours. It's really not too hard to do. You take off the stock calipers and install the NSX ones. Same brackets. The hardest thing is bleeding the brakes.

Blood Type-S

Under Kragen / partsamerica.com the part number is:

They are calipers for a 1995 Acura Legend GS
191744 and 191745

I got mine from Autozone ($50 for calipers, $50 core deposit).
My bill came out to:
$100 for calipers
$115 for pads
$300 for rotors
$120 for Goodridge brake lines
$130 (bc I was an idiot and got air in the master cylinder and had the dealer powerflush the system)

Also...very important, on the install be sure to swap the right and left calipers.

gr4mm4t0n

i got them remanufactured from napa for $55 each plus $66 core charge each. Just ask for 1995 Legend LS coupe front calipers and swap left for right (the bleeder bolt has to be on the top of the caliper when installed, you'll see what I mean). you only need the Legend caliper itself. use all of the existing CL's mounting hardware.

while you're at it, install stainless steel brake lines (~$110 from Excelerate).

i don't think they're different, but to be safe you'll want brake pads for a 1995 Legend LS coupe front, not the CL pads.

when you're done, just put your single piston CL calipers in the boxes and take them back for the core charge. they won't even open the box.

is the stopping power so improved that everyone needs to upgrade? debatable, but i'm very happy with the improved stopping power for $110+time for labor (i dyi'ed). the best way i can describe the improvement is to say that the pedal is much more "confident".

i've just now put on about 500 miles, so i'm ready for the bedding procedure.

here's some pics of mine when i first installed them:
https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/test-181612/

superfob

A hundred a caliper isn't to bad. Thanks for the info guys. I guess I'll be paying Kragen a visit.