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Thought I'd share a few pics of the current CL project. Something you probably dont see very much J30 AT swap. boo this man... lol. But seriously this was a favor for my coworker, not something I would have chosen to do.
accord dash and parking brake Donor 02 accord sedan
Looks like the CL-S center frame area has the 'boss' accomodations (red arrow) for the opposite side Accord E-Brake handle?
619rcr if you still have the CL-S6 E-Brake handle, equalizer, cup holder assembly, console box & wire casing cap adapter, maybe @Thefireball would be interested in a manual E-Brake conversion for his automatic CL-S?
Looks like the CL-S center frame area has the 'boss' accomodations (red arrow) for the opposite side Accord E-Brake handle?
619rcr if you still have the CL-S6 E-Brake handle, equalizer, cup holder assembly, console box & wire casing cap adapter, maybe @Thefireball would be interested in a manual E-Brake conversion for his automatic CL-S?
Well, the center area did have the impressions for both left and right handle configs. But, to swap CL to accord you have to drill a couple holes and place locking nuts under the tunnel. The accord handle only uses two bolts for the handle. The fwd bolt hole is shared with the CL. The red circle shows where to drill the #2 bolt hole.
The accord also does not use the 6MT two bolt bracket where the cable ends attach. Didn't get a pic of that.
I actually put the CLS handle and center console in the accord coupe to test fitment. I got the idea from a 6GA forum to swap in the CL dash and metal skeleton This will allow me to run the CLS cluster and short throw shifter.
Looks like the CL-S center frame area has the 'boss' accomodations (red arrow) for the opposite side Accord E-Brake handle?
619rcr if you still have the CL-S6 E-Brake handle, equalizer, cup holder assembly, console box & wire casing cap adapter, maybe @Thefireball would be interested in a manual E-Brake conversion for his automatic CL-S?
It'll be a manual one day.. one day..
I still prefer the auto cupholders for when I can't sit still.
Hey guys, just wanted to share that i'll finally be rebuilding my j3x... Just got a bnib factory block. Before anyone asks it's for the 6GA. I say j3x because i plan to run RL crank and rods.
Johnny 3.5 is alive, started up on the first try. sounds like a beast likely from the ported heads and runners. took a while to bleed coolant. the bad news is it seems to have a slight misfire. not enough for chk eng light yet, but its pretty obvious. it did have a slight miss the last time i drove on the old motor, but i figured it was just the tired motor acting up. anyways live data showed fuel trim was a few % negative so its not running lean. all the fuel injectors are new, but i reused some 6 temp range ngk iridiums. was getting dark, so didn't have time to cool off car to swap any parts. gonna try swapping in some spare coils and 7 temp plugs first. long day, time for a drink
Johnny 3.5 is alive, started up on the first try. sounds like a beast likely from the ported heads and runners. took a while to bleed coolant. the bad news is it seems to have a slight misfire. not enough for chk eng light yet, but its pretty obvious. it did have a slight miss the last time i drove on the old motor, but i figured it was just the tired motor acting up. anyways live data showed fuel trim was a few % negative so its not running lean. all the fuel injectors are new, but i reused some 6 temp range ngk iridiums. was getting dark, so didn't have time to cool off car to swap any parts. gonna try swapping in some spare coils and 7 temp plugs first. long day, time for a drink
At least I'm not the only one with misfires, lol. And have a drink for me, because I'm 6 months sober and dying for a beer.
Why is the engine code not on the plaque by the way. Did some one take a Dremel to it?
So right after work,swapped around the coils. No change. Picked up some ngk coppers (4291) from local parts shop & gapped to factory spec... good to go. idles smooth and drives good. put 10 miles so far just around the neighborhood. tested vtec just a bit, works fine. plan to take it easy the 1st 1k miles. gives me time to plan what to do next.
Gotta say doing all work myself has been a great learning exp. Now I have essentially a brand new engine in a beater shell as opposed to something people expect to be fast. For anyone else who's looking for an alternative to j35a3, the j37 snout ext plus a j35a8 crank is what I used. the whole motor was $600 and I swapped over the cams, rockers and valve springs too. I could've used the rods. but I went with crower for peace of mind.
So right after work,swapped around the coils. No change. Picked up some ngk coppers (4291) from local parts shop & gapped to factory spec... good to go. idles smooth and drives good. put 10 miles so far just around the neighborhood. tested vtec just a bit, works fine. plan to take it easy the 1st 1k miles. gives me time to plan what to do next.
Gotta say doing all work myself has been a great learning exp. Now I have essentially a brand new engine in a beater shell as opposed to something people expect to be fast. For anyone else who's looking for an alternative to j35a3, the j37 snout ext plus a j35a8 crank is what I used. the whole motor was $600 and I swapped over the cams, rockers and valve springs too. I could've used the rods. but I went with crower for peace of mind.
I still need to try swapping out spark plugs. Hopefully that's my issue too. But good job on your success.
Now don't do what I did and destroy your new motor from infrequent oil changes when breaking in those rings.
Now don't do what I did and destroy your new motor from infrequent oil changes when breaking in those rings.
Don't you put that evil on me. J/k. that's a good point. It has break in oil, so the first change is planned at 1k. I do my regular chgs at 3k. When I cracked open the pan on the approx 240k motor it was really clean. the valve covers as well. I'm sure you've come across poorly maintained examples in the junkyards. You can tell when people don't take care of a motor.
Don't you put that evil on me. J/k. that's a good point. It has break in oil, so the first change is planned at 1k. I do my regular chgs at 3k. When I cracked open the pan on the approx 240k motor it was really clean. the valve covers as well. I'm sure you've come across poorly maintained examples in the junkyards. You can tell when people don't take care of a motor.
It's part of the fun for me; judging previous owners on how well they took care of their engine with all my measuring tools lol.
I found a thread over on Honda Tech for my friend's B20 VTEC build. They posted a guide on breaking the rings in that I'll be following next time.
few updates, have about 300 miles on the j35. runs smooth but not as responsive as I expected with all the port work. Probably no surprise to anyone here, but the stock throttle body is pretty inadequate for a 3.5. Anyways 76mm blox was out of stock, so picked a 74mm skunk2 throttle body. The current RL manifold has a 70mm inlet, so I spent quite a while with the dremel tapering one side of the p2r adapter to enlarge from 70mm to 74mm. should've got j37, whatever maybe later.
Second, instead of running a hose from the iac adapter plate to the intake, used a small breather filter with a 10mm to 12mm elbow and some hose.
Third, since its been over 105 degrees already, swapped in a mishimoto fan switch. Does the same thing as mugen, but with prime shipping. What can i say i hate waiting.
Just got back from test drive... Response is way better. Idle was fine with no tweaks to the throttle out the box. fan kicked on early like it should. whoot.
anxiously waiting to get this engine broken in so I really test it out.
few updates, have about 300 miles on the j35. runs smooth but not as responsive as I expected with all the port work. Probably no surprise to anyone here, but the stock throttle body is pretty inadequate for a 3.5. Anyways 76mm blox was out of stock, so picked a 74mm skunk2 throttle body. The current RL manifold has a 70mm inlet, so I spent quite a while with the dremel tapering one side of the p2r adapter to enlarge from 70mm to 74mm. should've got j37, whatever maybe later.
Second, instead of running a hose from the iac adapter plate to the intake, used a small breather filter with a 10mm to 12mm elbow and some hose.
Third, since its been over 105 degrees already, swapped in a mishimoto fan switch. Does the same thing as mugen, but with prime shipping. What can i say i hate waiting.
Just got back from test drive... Response is way better. Idle was fine with no tweaks to the throttle out the box. fan kicked on early like it should. whoot.
anxiously waiting to get this engine broken in so I really test it out.
I see a power wire with a fuse for a subwoofer.
What're you running?
And what's that clamp with the bit poking out on the coolant hose?
I see a power wire with a fuse for a subwoofer.
What're you running?
And what's that clamp with the bit poking out on the coolant hose?
single 12" dual voice coil rockford fosgate sub i've had almost 20yrs. lol. Amp is a newer rockford fosgate class D around 600watts. Other smaller wire powers the main relay.
The part on the coolant hose is an aftermarket temp sending unit and fitting to use with an autometer gauge. I've had it on the car before, just not with the v6 motor.
here'a one more pic of the messy underside of the intake showing the fitting and my rigged IAC, kinda ghetto but it works.
One more thing I forgot to mention, the butterflies on the RL manifold are operational. I picked up a mating plug awhile back and finally had time to wire it up. @Thefireball actually has a short vid on youtube that showed the top plate in operation. There's a how too i believe in the 2g cl faq as well. Same concept as the j37 manifold.
single 12" dual voice coil rockford fosgate sub i've had almost 20yrs. lol. Amp is a newer rockford fosgate class D around 600watts. Other smaller wire powers the main relay.
The part on the coolant hose is an aftermarket temp sending unit and fitting to use with an autometer gauge. I've had it on the car before, just not with the v6 motor.
here'a one more pic of the messy underside of the intake showing the fitting and my rigged IAC, kinda ghetto but it works.
I have that same fuse holder in my TL. I need to replace it because it melted. I guess a 15' subwoofer will do that.
Is your IACV mounted somewhere, or just hanging loosely? I have mine sitting next to the TPS. I've been wanting to move it to an actual mounting position, but haven't figured a way out. It's just so awkward looking when I open the hood.
I just realized you had a filter on one of the hose connectors of the IACV. That doesn't cause any issues? I connected mine before & after the throttle body.
Last edited by Thefireball; Jun 11, 2022 at 12:08 PM.
Is your IACV mounted somewhere, or just hanging loosely? I have mine sitting next to the TPS. I've been wanting to move it to an actual mounting position, but haven't figured a way out. It's just so awkward looking when I open the hood.
I just realized you had a filter on one of the hose connectors of the IACV. That doesn't cause any issues? I connected mine before & after the throttle body.
Yeah, the length of the IAC plug wiring and the fact it needs to stay connected to the intake manifold doesn't allow much slack for mounting. Atm the setup is zip-tied to the lower bracket that came with the sc kit. I'd like to extend the wires to mount it remotely maybe on the left side of the manifold, there's another vacuum port that I have capped off.
The breather filter doesn't cause any issues. Basically you just need engine vacuum on one side and an opening to fresh air on the other. One other thing I did was run a drill through the hose barbs to port the insides just a bit.
Yeah, the length of the IAC plug wiring and the fact it needs to stay connected to the intake manifold doesn't allow much slack for mounting. Atm the setup is zip-tied to the lower bracket that came with the sc kit. I'd like to extend the wires to mount it remotely maybe on the left side of the manifold, there's another vacuum port that I have capped off.
The breather filter doesn't cause any issues. Basically you just need engine vacuum on one side and an opening to fresh air on the other. One other thing I did was run a drill through the hose barbs to port the insides just a bit.
Well shit, had I known that, I wouldn't have drilled a hole in my P2R TB Adapter for the IACV.
Anyone still rocking Airaid UBI 4" intake? Seems kind of ghetto, but no one going to see it with hood down. Few pics since most the old thread pics are down
Anyone still rocking Airaid UBI 4" intake? Seems kind of ghetto, but no one going to see it with hood down. Few pics since most the old thread pics are down
AEM 3" vs Airaid 4"
Is it made out of plastic? I want to have a properly made 4" intake that's metal, but no one makes one. Hoping to try making a better one once I get a welder. It'll be my first real welding project.
Is it made out of plastic? I want to have a properly made 4" intake that's metal, but no one makes one. Hoping to try making a better one once I get a welder. It'll be my first real welding project.
Plastic, but not too thick like pvc. Inner dimension is about 3 5/8". Think most professional jobs use a long 3 to 4 inch transition from burns, then a few pieces welded together and painted.
I still dont really get into vtec so its hard to tell any difference. Thinking after summer I'm either going to put the supercharger back on or install my spare nitrous kit. Decisions, decisions...
Plastic, but not too thick like pvc. Inner dimension is about 3 5/8". Think most professional jobs use a long 3 to 4 inch transition from burns, then a few pieces welded together and painted.
I still dont really get into vtec so its hard to tell any difference. Thinking after summer I'm either going to put the supercharger back on or install my spare nitrous kit. Decisions, decisions...
Slicks would be good for track, but too soft for street.
I am thinking of going to a 255 summer tire. Just not sure how much I want to spend.
Oh and I figured out that the owner's manual only calls for 600 miles for break-in. Sitting around 450 right now. been doing half tank top offs, mileage around 21mpg.
Slicks would be good for track, but too soft for street.
I am thinking of going to a 255 summer tire. Just not sure how much I want to spend.
Oh and I figured out that the owner's manual only calls for 600 miles for break-in. Sitting around 450 right now. been doing half tank top offs, mileage around 21mpg.
Have you given her the beans yet?
Also, after my slicks joke, it did get my wondering. I know no one makes a wide body kit for our cars, but I think some fender flares with wider tires would look pretty sick on the CL, or your Accord. I might end up doing it. I've been wanting to get new wheels, so it might be something I do at the same time.
Also, after my slicks joke, it did get my wondering. I know no one makes a wide body kit for our cars, but I think some fender flares with wider tires would look pretty sick on the CL, or your Accord. I might end up doing it. I've been wanting to get new wheels, so it might be something I do at the same time.
Not fully, but it gets up to 4k pretty easy. Vtec is set to 4200 atm. I had it set at 4100 before with the sc and it seemed to be a good balance. Probably by next week I'll be at 600miles.
Wide fenders would be nice. I tried to stretch my fronts a bit when I had 9" wheels, but I'm no professional so its barely noticeable. I'm pretty sure on the 2G TL side there was a thread where one of the OGs made custom fender pieces that that were cut, welded and blended into the stock pieces. Looked really nice when it was done. Might have had 265 tires.
Not fully, but it gets up to 4k pretty easy. Vtec is set to 4200 atm. I had it set at 4100 before with the sc and it seemed to be a good balance. Probably by next week I'll be at 600miles.
Wide fenders would be nice. I tried to stretch my fronts a bit when I had 9" wheels, but I'm no professional so its barely noticeable. I'm pretty sure on the 2G TL side there was a thread where one of the OGs made custom fender pieces that that were cut, welded and blended into the stock pieces. Looked really nice when it was done. Might have had 265 tires.
It's hard to see it; is it in the rear?
I know you can make body parts by hand with something like Bondo I believe. I've always thought about giving it a try. But I don't want to go overboard on looks that'll end up looking Ricey.
Though, I don't know if my car can be considered 'rice' when it's beaten a V8 Camaro with an exhaust that chops.
Few minor updates: new J35 about to hit the 600 mile mark, so I decided to get some better tires. Not quite full competition, but hopefully enough to get some more usable power to the ground (namely 1st gear). Plan to mount tomorrow...
Secondly, been tossing around the idea to go turbo versus over taxing the supercharger previously used on the j32. Not a lot of options for old multi exhaust port off the shelf manifolds for reasonable price. That said just ordered an obx manifold, meant for 98-02 accord. Coincidence?
Still looking for a turbo, primary limitation is the T3 inlet flange. Best option seems to be a gt35 style. Considering an anti surge inlet ball bearing from cxracing around $400-500 depending on bearing type. Yes, I realize these are cheap parts, but the focus is mainly a feasibility study.
Few pics of the cheap obx mani and cxracing turbo
: From CXRacing: Ceramic Dual Ball Bearing GT35 -with Anti-Surge Inlet -.70 A/R Compressor Housing -.63 A/R Turbine Housing -T3 Flange to Manifold -4 Bolt 2.5" Downpipe Flange -4" Inlet & 2.5" Outlet -Comes with 4-bolt -3" Vband Adapter -Comes with Oil Feed and Drain Fittings, Water Cooling Fittings, and Metal Gaskets
New 200 tw tires are on and man do they grip so much better. Night and day difference from BFG comp all seasons had before. Can finally mash the gas without spinning through first.
Funny thing was the tire shop guy was like are you sure it's gonna fit? All I could say was it should. lol
New 200 tw tires are on and man do they grip so much better. Night and day difference from BFG comp all seasons had before. Can finally mash the gas without spinning through first.
Funny thing was the tire shop guy was like are you sure it's gonna fit? All I could say was it should. lol
Looks like it's poking out a little. Fender flares?
Looks like it's poking out a little. Fender flares?
Just a little. When I used to have 17x9s with same size tires I intended to add some generic fiberglass fender flares, but the body shop I had look at car said they wouldn't fit. (too wide of an arch) so I just threw them away. I'm all for function over form, so it really doesn't bother me that much. Few more shots. rear is 245 40 17. Don't mind the beat up body. Might install my aftermarket front bumper again, now that it has slightly more ground clearance.
Just a little. When I used to have 17x9s with same size tires I intended to add some generic fiberglass fender flares, but the body shop I had look at them said it wouldn't fit. (too wide of an arch) so I just threw them away. I'm all for function over form, so it really doesn't bother me that much. Few more shots. rear is 245 40 17. Don't mind the beat up body, this car has been through a lot. lol
That car doesn't look beat up at all. I just posted pics of my car if you want to see one that's beat up. I wonder if I still have a pic of the trunk lid before I swapped it out. Looked like some one beat the crap out of it with a bat when I picked it up.
619rcr, I was just curious as to how those suite P2R headers plumbed together in an attempt to try and understand how Thefireball's girl is having exhaust leaks with their set.
1 connects to 2; 3 connects to 4; 5 fits inside 6 held by 7; 8 clamps 9 & 10 together; 11 & 12 clamp 1&2, 3&4 respectively?
I'm I anywhere in the 'ballpark'?
Originally Posted by Thefireball
I hope you don't have the same problem my girl has with her big tube headers on her CL. There's an exhaust leak at the V band clamp where the front headers connects to the J pipe. I've tried fixing it multiple times, and this time, I threw copper gasket maker in-between where the two pipes touch, spreading it around the edge of the pipe, putting a bunch in-between the V portion of the clamp, putting it on, then even spreading a little bit around the edge of the clamp. It's still leaking.
I'm thinking the muffler shop who installed it messed up the whole exhaust. There's a lot of tension at the 2 header to J pipes V band clamps. So even if I get everything seated all nicely, all that tension causes the pipes to move and cause a gap for a leak.
