HELP! Car won't pass smog!

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Old 08-24-2004, 07:06 PM
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HELP! Car won't pass smog!

Can someone please help me? I just bought a car from a guy who promised that the car was in good working condition, but hadn't had it smogged. I just took it to get smogged, and it passed the emissions part of the test but it failed the OBD II test. The mechanic told me to drive it around for about a week so that the computer could gain "memory" because he thought that maybe it had been reset. I need to register this car in 6 days, which means I have to have it re-smogged SOON. Can anyone tell me what the problem might be and how I can fix it with little to no cost to me?

Thank you in advance for all your help!
Old 08-24-2004, 07:15 PM
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any mods to the car? maybe it doesnt have a catalytic converter.... ?
Old 08-24-2004, 07:24 PM
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I'm not familiar with smog tests (none in Michigan), but you said you failed just the OBDII test? So you're saying that emissions-wise, the car is fine?

What was wrong with the OBDII system? Why didn't it pass? I was under the impression that as long as there's no OBDII error code present, it's fine.

Also, what year and model? It might help to know in order to help.
Old 08-24-2004, 08:15 PM
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I had to replace the catalytic converter on my Integra when it failed the emissions test.

There are also products out there that guarantee you'll pass the smog test. Here is one: http://www.passthesmog.com/

I tried one and it didn't work. I guess a faulty cat is more than these products can fix.
Old 08-24-2004, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by babyneo
The mechanic told me to drive it around for about a week so that the computer could gain "memory" because he thought that maybe it had been reset.
Your mechanic is absolutely right. Once you clear the check engine light, it clears the status of several diagnostic tests. You have to drive the car around to re-populate the status codes of all the tests. For example, on a GM car you have to go through the following "drive cycle" to simulate all the conditions checked by the ODB-II sensors. This is why your mechanic suggested driving around for a while, because chances are good you'd meet all these driving conditions.

http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html
Old 08-24-2004, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by babyneo
Can someone please help me? I just bought a car from a guy who promised that the car was in good working condition, but hadn't had it smogged. I just took it to get smogged, and it passed the emissions part of the test but it failed the OBD II test. The mechanic told me to drive it around for about a week so that the computer could gain "memory" because he thought that maybe it had been reset. I need to register this car in 6 days, which means I have to have it re-smogged SOON. Can anyone tell me what the problem might be and how I can fix it with little to no cost to me?

Thank you in advance for all your help!
Not much help now, but remember for next time; in California the SELLER gets the car smogged BEFORE selling it.
Old 08-24-2004, 09:26 PM
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When my 92 Legend wouldn't pass, they cleaned the EGR valve and then eventually replaced the whole damn thing. That did the trick, but it's a costly little bugger.
Old 08-24-2004, 09:58 PM
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just pay somone to pass you, it's def better than the headache you're going through now.
Old 08-24-2004, 10:53 PM
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slip em a 50 and call it a day, thats what we do around here ^
Old 08-24-2004, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan
Not much help now, but remember for next time; in California the SELLER gets the car smogged BEFORE selling it.

WTF happened here? You should not be in this situation after a sale. You might want to check with the DMV about your legal rights.

http://www.dmv.ca.gov/vr/smogfaq.htm#BM2537
When a car is sold, who is responsible for the inspection?


The seller is required to provide the buyer with a valid smog inspection certification at the time of the sale or transfer. Smog certifications are good for 90 days from the date of issuance.


The inspection is not required on a transfer if a biennial smog certification was submitted to DMV within 90 days prior to the vehicle transfer date (a vehicle inspection report may be required for proof of certification).
Old 08-24-2004, 11:07 PM
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Try some RXP in it. I think O'Reilly's Autoparts carries it. It's fule additive that will help reduce exhaust emissions. This stuff really works.

Ruf

http://www.rxp.com/
Old 08-25-2004, 02:51 PM
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Thanks to everyone for your helpful suggestions! I'm definitely going to try these out! Wish me luck!

1997 Acura 3.0 CL
Old 08-25-2004, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Titand19
just pay somone to pass you, it's def better than the headache you're going through now.


not nearly that easy these days out here
Old 08-25-2004, 02:58 PM
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babyneo, did you find out if he had any of the recalls done, because the EGR valve was part of that and that could be it. What exactly did the guy say caused you not to pass? It wasn't more specific then just OBDII?
Old 08-25-2004, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by CLpower
babyneo, did you find out if he had any of the recalls done, because the EGR valve was part of that and that could be it. What exactly did the guy say caused you not to pass? It wasn't more specific then just OBDII?
Nope, that's all it said on the paper: FAILED ODB II Test

I really don't think the guy I bought the car from had any of the recalls done, but he did say that the car had never given him any problems. The only modification done on the car is that he had it painted "lamborghini orange."

The other mechanic that I took my car to this morning agreed with the first mechanic, that I should just drive the car around for a few days and wait for the memory to fill up with data. (?) He said there was nothing anyone could do until this was done, and that I had to wait for the Check Engine light to come on. He also said that if it did come on, I could bring it in to be fixed because then there diagnostic tester could figure out what was exactly wrong with it.

I REALLY hope that the only fix I need to do is drive my car around...I just bought the car because I had a SAAB that was getting to be too expensive to fix, and I figured I'd go the responsible route and get dependable Acura...

Have you guys had good experiences (meaning, not many costly repairs other than regular maintenance) with your Acuras?
Old 09-09-2004, 11:21 AM
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Okay, so I was driving in to work yesterday morning when I saw that my "Check Engine" light had come on! I drove my car to the mechanic, and it popped out code P1491, and the mechanic said that this was the code for "EGR Valve Lift Insufficient." Another mechanic said that you could replace the valve, but this wouldn't mean that the problem would be fixed, or that once replaced, I would pass smog. Any advice?

BTW -- my car only has 78,600 miles -- so should I replace it? One mechanic quoted me $180 for the valve and $70 for the labor.
Old 09-09-2004, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by babyneo
Okay, so I was driving in to work yesterday morning when I saw that my "Check Engine" light had come on! I drove my car to the mechanic, and it popped out code P1491, and the mechanic said that this was the code for "EGR Valve Lift Insufficient." Another mechanic said that you could replace the valve, but this wouldn't mean that the problem would be fixed, or that once replaced, I would pass smog. Any advice?
Um...how about fix the problem...as in replace the EGR valve

How many miles to you have on your car? The EGR valve should be replaced periodically anyway (the interval should be in the manual). Some people just clean the valve, but if it's old you might as well replace it.

This shouldn't be an expensive repair.
Old 09-09-2004, 12:11 PM
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don't how it works in cali, but here in md the 1st check is the diagnostic read-out (what you call OBD-II). if this passes, you're good. if it fails..... then they'll run the tail-pipe check. if the tail-pipe test passes, you're good. if the tail-pipe test fails THEN you have to get it fixed.

check w/ the smog station and find out if the car needs fixed if it passes the tail pipe test.


as for getting it fixed goes the smog stuff isn't science. unfortunately. the computer codes may indicate the problem, maybe not. ususally it takes a good deal of time, effort, luck, and of course $$$$$$$$$$$$ to get them resolved.


good luck.
Old 09-09-2004, 12:31 PM
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Me thinks you need whole re-test. But, you could call the station that did the test.

Originally Posted by carquest
don't how it works in cali, but here in md the 1st check is the diagnostic read-out (what you call OBD-II). if this passes, you're good. if it fails..... then they'll run the tail-pipe check. if the tail-pipe test passes, you're good. if the tail-pipe test fails THEN you have to get it fixed.

check w/ the smog station and find out if the car needs fixed if it passes the tail pipe test.


as for getting it fixed goes the smog stuff isn't science. unfortunately. the computer codes may indicate the problem, maybe not. ususally it takes a good deal of time, effort, luck, and of course $$$$$$$$$$$$ to get them resolved.


good luck.
LINK: http://www.smogtips.com/frequentlyaskedquestions.cfm


3. My vehicle failed the smog test because the "Check Engine" light was illuminated. Why didn't the Smog Technician inform me I would fail the inspection, BEFORE completing the test and charging me a lot of money? back to top


The State of California requires smog technicians to perform the smog test in the following order:

Emissions (Tail Pipe) Inspection
Visual Inspection - Inspect for presence of Emissions Components
Functional Inspection - Inspect Check Engine Light, Ignition Timing, EGR valve operation, Gas Cap pressure test)
It doesn't seem right for a smog technician to smog test a vehicle which he/she knows will fail the test due to the Check Engine light, but the law does require shops to perform the test this way in order to gather accurate data about the condition of vehicles currently being driven in California. This information is used for studies and up-to-date surveys.

It is true that the technician can inform you, IF you ask about a specific visual problem, but unfortunately they are supposed to and are required to test vehicle's as they arrive to the test site.

Main CA smog link (CA Dep. Consumer Affairs - Bur. Automotive Repair):

http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/stdhome.asp

Oh, one more link:

Help, I Failed My Smog Check!
Old 09-20-2004, 02:44 PM
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P.S. to EGR problem

Well, the problem still has not been fixed. I finally had to take it to a shady mechanic who made my smog pass, and I have no idea how he did it, considering I had taken it to another place and they flat-out said it was impossible to do an "illegal" smog when the problem has to do with the functional tests, and not the emissions tests.

Anyway, I called my local Acura dealership and asked if there were any recalls on my EGR valve for my car. They ran my VIN number, and the girl told me that there is an "EGR port clogging" recall on my specific car, and that USUALLY in these instances, the recall issue is fixed free of charge, but she couldn't confirm this, so I'm still waiting back to hear from the Acura advisor...

I'll let you know what happens...
Old 09-20-2004, 02:57 PM
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I think there is a separate emissions warranty that is longer than the bumper to bumper warranty especially in California. Check out the warranty book.
Old 09-20-2004, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Titand19
just pay somone to pass you, it's def better than the headache you're going through now.
____________

are you asian? cuz i thought only asian ppl do that
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