Hey guys,

My headlight is doing something a little fishy. Just wanted to confirm with you guys to see if you can confirm w/ me.

The front right headlight will turn on for only a second and flash an orangish color and then goes out. Does this mean that the bulb needs to be changed or there is something wrong w/ the ballest or electrical?

Thanks guys!

 

Can you get the light to come back on by flipping the switch a few times? Have you tried switching the bulb from your other headlight to see if that's the problem? Usually with these cars it's either the headlight or the ballast that go bad.
Been there done that now I'm a freakin expert on our headlights.

 

Ballast.... My passenger headlight did the same thing for quite a while. Wouldn't come on, if I turned the lights off then back on it'd come on or flicker then either go out or stay on, etc. Finally died completely a couple of months ago. I put a new bulb in and it still doesn't work, so now I'm on the hunt for a new ballast.

Dealer wants $499 for a new one, I'm looking for used OEM ones as I don't want to deal with rewiring aftermarket setups, but you can get kits pretty cheap. www.ddmtuning.com has some super cheap HID kids with bulbs and ballasts for under $40 and a lifetime warranty. I'm just torn on whether or not I want to mess with wiring and fabricating new mounting for the new ballasts.

 

No joke really! That's a lot of money. Will the aftermarket lights plug right in? Wiring is super easy for me....or is there a lot to do for it?

 

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Ap...Raptor-HID-Kit

I'm looking to get this kit from the site you posted.

Getting the following options:
Wattage- 35W
Bulb Type - D2R (can someone confirm)
Bulb Color - 5000k
HID Harness - Dual in, Dual Out

Now will this still fit stock into the current slot? I don't want to have to do any customization to the headlight. I have no problem doing electrical as that comes easy to me.

 

Stock is D2R. You dont need the harness.

Youre just splicing the power from our stock ballasts to the aftermarket ballasts.

 

Ok I will scratch out the harness then. So this will fit in the stock location and the wiring is as easy as you're stating, just switching the power?

 

You'll need to cover up the hole on the underside of the headlight housing - a piece of lexan + silicone will work, which you can then use to mount the new ballast. You'll need to drill a hole in the housing to pass the wires for the bulb through. Then use some more silicone to seal it. It doesnt have to be perfect, the headlights arent 100% sealed from factory, and thats on purpose.

As far as wiring goes, you will see a two wire connector that is clipped onto the rear of the headlight housing. That is the power for the ballast. Cut the connector on the ballast side and solder it to the power leads on the new ballast. Make sure you use some heat shrink on it, or at the very least electrical tape, and fire up the headlights.

 

Thanks for all the help brother Greatly appreciated!

Just placed them on order. Should have them Friday!

 

NP. If you need further help, let us know.

 

Switch bulbs if problem persists it's the ballast. When mine went bad I bought a new one here:

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp

Takes an hour to swap you have to remove front bumper.

Or buy cheap POS ballast off eBay have headlight die at night in the fog during a blizzard when it's 20 below and you're 400 miles from nowhere and haven't slept for 20 hours.

I always buy the cheapest, lowest quality parts knowing they will never let me down!

 

You bought the ddmtuning kit that you linked? Let me know what you think of it when you get it, I may end up doing the same. Definitely a sweet deal especially with the lifetime warranty. Not really a fan of splicing into factory electricals, but I might go for it in this case.

 

Uh what!? I have no problem spending the money but a lifetime gurantee on some headlights must mean they know they're not going to be going out that often. I'm a little lost on where you are coming from!?


Yes, I got the one I linked. I will post up some pics and how it was done once I get it! I'll tell you what I think for sure.

 

Did your kit come in yet? Install it yet?

 

There's a DIY on this if you search "aftermarket ballast conversion" it has a lot of pictures and is step by step.

 

Has anyone ever tried finding a low profile ballast and putting it inside the factory ballast housing? That way you wouldn't have to hack up a $400 pair of headlights and you would still have a more reliable ballast. I may try this my passenger side ballast is starting to go and I don't feel like spending $340 for a new one.

 

Ballasts need to breath. Enclosing them like that may decrease their lifespan.

If you dont want to hack up the headlights (its only a drill hole for the ignitor, but...):

Get a piece of lexan, cut it to around the same size as the stock ballast, screw that on with some silicone to cover the hole underneath the headlight, and drill the hole for the ignitor into the lexan instead of the headlight housing. The newer DDM slim ballasts are small enough that you should be able to still mount it to the lexan and get the ignitor through it as well.

 

I can see the need for "breathing" but I want to try this anyway. I just got done digging the circuit board out of an old factory ballast I had that died. There is a good amount of room inside and I should be able to fit a ballast in there with a good amount of clearance. . .plus it will have air from inside the headlight housing to "breath". All I need to know now is what ballast to buy? Will these work?:
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DD...ast-35W-or-55W
Just need to make sure I have enough space.

I have .75"+.25"Depth x 3"Width x 4"Length inside the factory ballast housing.

 

Echo can you measure the ballasts when your kit comes in? I need length, width, and depth please.