CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

There's a re-occurring issue that always arises with this install. Some say do the back header from the top and some say from underneath? Moreover, how hard is this?

I'm sure there is a sight I have overlooked/missed with this precise info.

If you could show me the way I'd be greatly appreciative!


* Just want to know everything b4 they arrive so I can install them Pronto without snags.

Thanks

BigLizard

It doesn't matter which header you release first.

It's not complicated. Just nuts and bolts need to be released then tightened down. For the average mechanic joe it should take about an hour or less.

BigLizard

There are two informative readings in the 2nd gen info thread. Click the first link in my sig.

Here's one:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...d.php?t=461011

RooEng

Unbolt/bolt the header from the top. The nuts are too far to reach from the bottom.

Remove/install it from the bottom. There's not enough room to squeeze it in from the top.

2Fast4you

iTrader: (1)

I took off the down pipe first then took off the headers from the top

TOPHER33884

iTrader: (6)

Front headers and pipe connections were easy......for the rear, I just layed across my engine, to reach back there with a crescent wrench and a small breaker bar. I advise spraying some PB Blaster on the bolts for 2 days before attempting the un-install/install

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Make sure the bolts connecting the J pipe to the cat arent rusted on. I had that with mine and had to cut them off.

The front header comes out from the top. Unbolt both front and rear from the top. To take out the rear, get it from underneath. Dont tighten everything until you have it all installed.

Make sure you use OEM gaskets for the cylinder head -> header.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

why not use the gaskets provided in the obx kit? It even comes with new bolts?

you mean re-use my original ones or buy new OEM ones?

bigguyonbike

TOPHER33884

iTrader: (6)

I would advise to either use the stock bolts, or purchase some new ones from a hardware store.....and the gaskets that come with the headers are crap.....they feel like 1/8" cardboard. So be safe and listen to the guys who are giving you the advise.

2Fast4you

iTrader: (1)

I could get my bolts off with just a breaker bar and no pb blaster I was pretty surprised but it is a Florida car and has never seen salt

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

That would definately make a difference. Mine was a NY car up until last August when I saved it.

AnthraciteBeast

iTrader: (3)

lol save mine!!! Illinois roads in the winter have more salt than

Mine will definately require PB

2Fast4you

iTrader: (1)

I feel bad for all you northerners

black label

I'm not sure about the OBX bolts and gaskets, but the ones that came with the XSpower headers were garbage. Many of the people who bought them first had bolts break during or shortly after the install and had the wonderful opportunity to do it right the second time and learn a lesson in the process.

Take the advice of those who have done this before you so you can do it right the first time.

Some people reused their original gaskets, some bought new OEM ones. Either gaskets are relatively cheap in the grand scheme of things as are bolts.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

I strongly disagree with it being a short or simple job. Some have got them in quick & easy, some it took days.
While the job should be easy, getting rusted tq'd on parts off a 7+ year old car can be a PITA. Your cat bolts are going to be a bitch for sure.
idk how you guys are able to use bp blaster to loosen stuff. never worked for me on the 87 suburban I had. I soaked bolts for a week & still had to cut them off.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

PB Blaster worked on some of the bolts. As I stated before, the cat bolt will most likely be rusted on. I had to cut mine off entirely.

It took me about 8 hours to do the whole job. It would have been quicker if I didnt have to sit under the car with a grinder and a cut off wheel with less then a foot of space.

It helps to have an impact wrench on hand. If you don't have one, then a really big breaker bar may do the trick. Also, a nice torch helps. Just dont strip any bolts as it will complicate things tenfold.

I can definately understand why someone would want to take it somewhere to get it done. But I refuse to let someone else modify my car. So I will shed all the blood, sweat and tears my body has to give to do the job myself.

I think a good test to see if you can do the job easily is to try unbolting the cat bolts first. If those come off easily, you shouldnt have a problem with the rest of the install.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

wow rust??? Lol I must be the luckiest guy around then...

This car's been in toronto it's whole life and there is not a drop of rust anywhere. The engine bay area looks brannn new

I'm going to post you up some picks when I get my canon G7 working again. It had one owner and was parked underground it's whole life and now it's garage kept. only thing with signs of rust are the cat, a TAD on the exhaust and the rear heat shield...

And I'm extremely NITPICKY when it comes to rust or cleanliness on my WHIP. She deserves better

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

my goal is to get it all done in 4 hrs.... Then time to hear the symphony

BUT i'ma do my pulley then too so it's looking like a good days worth of work.... and some drinking of course!

thevikas87

iTrader: (2)

I completely agree, make sure you look at the cat bolts..mine might as well been welded on the rust was so bad...

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Hey, that is a thread I started. Glad to see that it is still alive!

The one thing I found was that the install went smoother when all of the components were loosely fitted first. Headers to manifolds, cat to downpipe, then I tightened/torqued the header bolts then tightened/torqued the cat/downpipe connections. There were no initial leaks. I went back a week later and re-torqued the header bolts and they have been on ever since, trouble free.

In addition, the PB blaster and the swival sockets were very helpful to have on hand as well.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

keep it all loose eh? That's a smart idea

I'll definately do that for my install

thanks

2Fast4you

iTrader: (1)

rust in South Carolina?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Keep in mind that this approach worked with the Comptech Headers; however, there may be issues (alignment/fitment) with other brands.

thevikas87

iTrader: (2)

My car was initially sold in New York, but to answer your question, it snows here in SC every year, and they do use salt on the roads.

2Fast4you

iTrader: (1)

I live in North Carolina and even if it snows they never put down salt