Header Heaache
#1
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Header Heaache
Today I finally decided to put on my headers. I went and bought some antiseize, liquid wrench and ramps because my lift points are bent. So I get started around 1pm figuring a 3 hour job. Well its a little after 9pm and I still haven't removed even 1 piece of the exhaust system. I'm so frustrated because so many people have done this themselves. Besides having to stop for a couple hours for a thunderstorm. The main problem is I just can't reach anything involving the rear header and the O2 sensor harness. Even the bolts I could reach were torqued tight as sh!t. I literally pulled myself across the ground trying to loosen the A pipe from the front header. How is it you DIY'ers reach the rear headers? Right now I'm so pissed I just want to take it to a shop to finish. But my pride says to keep doing this. But the frustration is becoming unbearable. I guess I'll have to spend $150 and have someone do it with air tools.
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#2
cl-:P
well when i was putting in my front strut i had the same problem with torqued bolts that i couldn't budge with all my body weight. The i had the simple thought a putting a bar on the end of the wrench. The increased torque you generate from this is rediclous, i removed the blots like they were barely in. As far as reaching all that sh!t i dont know, but i want to, considering my next purchase will be headers. Hope it all works out for u.
#3
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get a 3/8 rachet with the 12mm long socket. neel up on the intake manifold. find bolts with left hand, place rachet on bolts with right hand. find a cheater bar, long hollow pipe and give them hell, make sure you use a 6-point socket and not a 12 though. i got mine done in about 2 hours. wish i had an impact, it would have only taken me a hour then.
#5
Safety Car
You don't have to unbolt the strut bar... that does not help. You have to soak some liquid-wrench onto the A-pipe bolts and just use a BIG wrench! The rear manifold is a pain... you have to remove the nuts from both above the car and below the car. The A-pipe to cat can be tough if the car has many miles - once again liquid-wrench!!
#6
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thanks, I'll try different tools tomorrow, and even more liquid wrench. Oh BTW, I weigh +260 lbs! In other words they're tight as shyte.
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#8
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I had 70k miles on my car when Smitty helped me install my headers and B-Pipe and we had to torch the freakin shit out of almost ever bolt.. Suggestion get some serious heat..
#9
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I used a fairly large socket wrench w/ like a 5 in. extension. Before I bought them I was under the car for like 3 hrs. Got out, went to the store came back and took me 30 mins to remove. It helps if you have the right tools. Yea, no need to remove strut bar. If anything it helps if you need something to hold onto.
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Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
Go to the gym for 1-week and work on triceps and shoulders prior to a header install ![Big Grin](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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#12
Blown is Best
The cheater bar or use 1/2" drive breaker bar. Leverage is your friend. Also, if you can, use 6 point sockets. 3/8" drive stuff is good for most work but it's really nice to have 1/2" tools around so you don't beat the sh1t out of yourself working on the car. Consider getting at least the 1/2" breaker bar and use a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter so you can use your existing sockets.
#14
I had the same problem when I installed my headers. I stopped by a Midas shop and asked them to loosen the bolts slightly for me so that I could remove them. I believe I paid them $25 for their work.
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okay I just got back from home depot and got my breaker bar w/various attachments, gloves and a flashlight in case I have to work past sunset. I'm taking a break for the daily thunderstorm. So far this project has cost me $75 in tools etc., 6 hours of work and 6 hours of frustration. I'm waitin' on the endorphins now.
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Originally Posted by DPOLICH
I had the same problem when I installed my headers. I stopped by a Midas shop and asked them to loosen the bolts slightly for me so that I could remove them. I believe I paid them $25 for their work.
#18
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for everyone thinking so, headers are not hard to do. they just take time and use a spray IE: liquid wrench. i did my header bolts from the top and then did the downpipe bolts form the bottom. then i pulled the headers out from the top and the down pipes from the bottom. then dropped the new headers in from the top. put bolts on loose, attached down pipe from bottom then tightened from header down. my car had 50,000 miles and no problems. except for the rear heat sheild, which i had to grind off.
#20
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I could understand your frustration!!!
It really help if you take the down pipe aka A-pipe off first then work on the front header then the rear. If you have an impact gun and compressor, it only takes about 1 hour to 2 max. But if you get it done. its worth all the hard work. Good luck bro.
It really help if you take the down pipe aka A-pipe off first then work on the front header then the rear. If you have an impact gun and compressor, it only takes about 1 hour to 2 max. But if you get it done. its worth all the hard work. Good luck bro.
#21
Dragging knees in
iTrader: (2)
Removing the STB will only take a few minutes, and it will give you a lot more room to maneuver in. In my case, I wasn't getting cut up by the wires and harnesses attached to the STB any more, at least.
I put a 2-foot pipe over the wrench and simply pulled it to loosen the nuts. It's all about leverage and torque, not how much you weigh or bench.
And forget that Liquid Wrench stuff -- get some PB Blaster. I found that it works much better than the Liquid Wrench.
Good luck.
I put a 2-foot pipe over the wrench and simply pulled it to loosen the nuts. It's all about leverage and torque, not how much you weigh or bench.
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And forget that Liquid Wrench stuff -- get some PB Blaster. I found that it works much better than the Liquid Wrench.
Good luck.
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#23
Safety Car
Originally Posted by Nashua_Night_Hawk
with pressured air tools the job will take like 30 mins!
#24
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My personal time is too valuable to waste hours doing a self installation, especially if you don't have the proper tools.
That is why you have them installed by a pro and save yourself alot of aggravation.
Just my humble opinion.
That is why you have them installed by a pro and save yourself alot of aggravation.
Just my humble opinion.
#25
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Originally Posted by sonor kid
My personal time is too valuable to waste hours doing a self installation, especially if you don't have the proper tools.
That is why you have them installed by a pro and save yourself alot of aggravation.
Just my humble opinion.
That is why you have them installed by a pro and save yourself alot of aggravation.
Just my humble opinion.
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#26
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Originally Posted by sonor kid
My personal time is too valuable to waste hours doing a self installation, especially if you don't have the proper tools.
That is why you have them installed by a pro and save yourself alot of aggravation.
Just my humble opinion.
That is why you have them installed by a pro and save yourself alot of aggravation.
Just my humble opinion.
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#27
Blackbird baby..
Yeah my ride was only a few months old when I did the headers.. but the bolts were locked tighter than sh*t. The A-pipe and cat flange were the worst. I wouldn't even attempt it without an air impact wrench.
#28
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Originally Posted by scalbert
Actually, I don't do my own work to save $$. I do it mainly to be sure it is done correctly. Those "pro's" aren't always the best. ![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
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#30
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Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
BTW, Happy Birthday Jadia4!
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#31
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Originally Posted by scalbert
Always have a can of this:
Spray it on the bolts/nuts and let it sit for about fifteen minutes. Then come back to it.
![](http://www.midwayautosupply.com/images/blaster/8pb_3X.jpg)
Spray it on the bolts/nuts and let it sit for about fifteen minutes. Then come back to it.
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Originally Posted by sonor kid
My personal time is too valuable to waste hours doing a self installation, especially if you don't have the proper tools.
That is why you have them installed by a pro and save yourself alot of aggravation.
Just my humble opinion.
That is why you have them installed by a pro and save yourself alot of aggravation.
Just my humble opinion.
#32
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Originally Posted by scalbert
Always have a can of this:
Spray it on the bolts/nuts and let it sit for about fifteen minutes. Then come back to it.
![](http://www.midwayautosupply.com/images/blaster/8pb_3X.jpg)
Spray it on the bolts/nuts and let it sit for about fifteen minutes. Then come back to it.
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DO IT NOW!
#33
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Originally Posted by ModAddict
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DO IT NOW!
and get a TORCH man... heat is your friend.. get that shit glowing RED..
PM Jonesi, he bought new bolts, header gaskets, hangers for the mufflers, anti seize compound... he was prepared for the party.. and ended up spending some extra loot for tools he did not have.... like Modaddict would say: "Get'er Done"
#34
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Well I took it to a DIY shop with a lift today at about 3pm. Things were going okay until I tried unbolting the A pipe from the rear header. 2 of those bolts only came out with an impact gun. So I asked the "duty mechanic" for a little help and he couldn't even get it off. So for about 30 minutes he kept coming back with higher and higher torque impact guns. But none could get the last bolt off. The other bolts were severly stripped while coming off. So I'll be going back on thursday to have that last bolt removed. So I can add another 3 hours to this project. But hey I got the heat shields removed.
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#36
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Originally Posted by scalbert
Must be that ocean air getting to them bolts.
Hey, I'll be in Miami next week so if you are still having problem, I don't see how I could help out.
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Hey, I'll be in Miami next week so if you are still having problem, I don't see how I could help out.
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#37
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Is there any reason I have to use stock studs?
All of the local dealerships are out of header (exhaust manifold) studs that connect to the downpipe. They cost $6 each.
Is there any reason I can't use other than stock or Comptech studs?
BTW the original stud that wouldn't unbolt, the mechanic that helped me said the last impact gun he used (unsuccessfully) was rated at 800psi!
WTF is up with those studs?
Is there any reason I can't use other than stock or Comptech studs?
BTW the original stud that wouldn't unbolt, the mechanic that helped me said the last impact gun he used (unsuccessfully) was rated at 800psi!
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#39
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I can't do to much until I get new studs, so my "project" is in hiatus until then, thanks though.
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