Grounding kit install?
Thread Starter
Spectacular Aroma About
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,364
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From: Ohio
Grounding kit install?
Hey guys,
Who has installed this already? Is it as simple as it looks? Mine should be here tommorow and I was wondering if I should go ahead and put it on or save it for the weekend.
Who has installed this already? Is it as simple as it looks? Mine should be here tommorow and I was wondering if I should go ahead and put it on or save it for the weekend.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,992
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu, Hawaii
There are a few things I didn't like, but its very easy to install. I posted pictures, also, there are the full instructions a couple of pages back.
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...09#post1338509
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...09#post1338509
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,992
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Originally posted by InSaNeAmine
Acura - CL Custom Grounding Kit
Safety 1st: Work only on cool or cold engines. Hot engines will burn you!
Disclaimer: I am not responsible for what you do to your automobile. Install at your own risk. Read instructions thoroughly before installation.
Kit Includes:
1 - Installation Instructions
1 - Lock Washer - Used as a spacer in Step 21.
2 - Zip Ties - Used to keep wires in place.
6 - 4 gauge heat & chemical resistant insulated high purity copper cables:
#1 - 18” – Passenger side chassis ground to alternator.
#2 - 18” – Top rear of throttle body to driver side fender well bracket.
#3 - 20” – Passenger side chassis ground to steering pump.
#4 - 20” – Fender well bracket to battery/chassis ground.
#5 - 30” – Power steering ground to top rear of throttle body.
#6 - 30” – Top front throttle body to alternator.
Tools required:
10 mm open/closed end wrench
10 mm socket and driver
1 Quarter or Penny
Time Required:
1 - 1.5 hours, at most.
Installation:
Note: Hold on to your Screws! DO NOT OVER TORQUE! Recommended; < 7 ft-lbs.
1.) Remove plastic engine cover by removing the 4 securing bolts with a 10 mm socket driver.
2.) Remove the small plastic cover which houses the top of the spark plugs by unscrewing the slotted fasteners with a quarter or penny.
3.) Remove the 10 mm bolt holding the passenger side chassis ground just above the ABS controller. The factory ground has three very thin wires coming off of it.
4.) Using the bolt you just removed from step 3, put it through one end of the #1 wire, then the #3 wire and then back through the ground wires. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.
5.) Run the #1 wire towards the front of the CL around the plastic filler tube for the wiper reservoir and towards the alternator.
6.) Run the #3 wire toward the back of the CL along the fender well and then to the factory ground on top of the power steering pump.
7.) Remove the bolt securing the factory ground on top of the power steering pump using a 10 mm wrench or driver.
8.) Using the bolt you just removed from step 7, put it through one end of the #5 wire, the free end of the #3 wire and then the factory ground wire and re-secure. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.
9.) Run the #5 wire along the top of the valve cover and towards the top of the throttle body.
10.) Remove the rear 10 mm bolt on top of the throttle body. This bolt holds down a small metal tube junction.
11.) Using the bolt just removed from step10, place it through one end of the #2 wire and then the free end to the #5 wire and re-secure. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.
12.) Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds down an orange connector on the driver side fender well.
13.) Using this bolt, place it through one end of the #4 wire and then the free end of the #2 wire and re-secure. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.
14.) Run this wire towards the front of the CL.
15.) Remove the battery/chassis ground bolt which is directly in front of the battery using a 10 mm wrench.
16.) Using this bolt, place through the free end of the #2 wire and re-secure to the battery/chassis ground using a 10 mm wrench.
17.) Remove the front bolt on top of the throttle body that holds the same metal tube bracket in step10.
18.) Using this bolt, place through one end of the #6 wire and re-secure leave loose to allow for positioning of the wires.
19.) Run the #6 wire toward the front of the CL then toward the alternator. Run the wire below the spark plug connectors.
20.) Remove the 10 mm bolt on top of the alternator. This bolt secures a black wire bracket.
21.) Using this bolt, place through the free end of the #6 wire, then the supplied washer, then the free end of the #1 wire and re-secure. NOTE: The washer is a necessary spacer required to lift the #6 wire terminal over the black bracket so there is NO contact with it.
22.) Position wires to allow for free movement. Use wire ties to secure wires where ever necessary.
23.) Tighten down each bolt. CAUTION: Do not over torque bolts!!! 5 to 7 lbs is all that is necessary.
24.) Replace the plastic spark plug cover and secure.
25.) Replace the plastic engine cover and re-secure the 10 mm bolts.
26.) Enjoy!
Copyright © 2003 Szita Technologies
Acura - CL Custom Grounding Kit
Safety 1st: Work only on cool or cold engines. Hot engines will burn you!
Disclaimer: I am not responsible for what you do to your automobile. Install at your own risk. Read instructions thoroughly before installation.
Kit Includes:
1 - Installation Instructions
1 - Lock Washer - Used as a spacer in Step 21.
2 - Zip Ties - Used to keep wires in place.
6 - 4 gauge heat & chemical resistant insulated high purity copper cables:
#1 - 18” – Passenger side chassis ground to alternator.
#2 - 18” – Top rear of throttle body to driver side fender well bracket.
#3 - 20” – Passenger side chassis ground to steering pump.
#4 - 20” – Fender well bracket to battery/chassis ground.
#5 - 30” – Power steering ground to top rear of throttle body.
#6 - 30” – Top front throttle body to alternator.
Tools required:
10 mm open/closed end wrench
10 mm socket and driver
1 Quarter or Penny
Time Required:
1 - 1.5 hours, at most.
Installation:
Note: Hold on to your Screws! DO NOT OVER TORQUE! Recommended; < 7 ft-lbs.
1.) Remove plastic engine cover by removing the 4 securing bolts with a 10 mm socket driver.
2.) Remove the small plastic cover which houses the top of the spark plugs by unscrewing the slotted fasteners with a quarter or penny.
3.) Remove the 10 mm bolt holding the passenger side chassis ground just above the ABS controller. The factory ground has three very thin wires coming off of it.
4.) Using the bolt you just removed from step 3, put it through one end of the #1 wire, then the #3 wire and then back through the ground wires. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.
5.) Run the #1 wire towards the front of the CL around the plastic filler tube for the wiper reservoir and towards the alternator.
6.) Run the #3 wire toward the back of the CL along the fender well and then to the factory ground on top of the power steering pump.
7.) Remove the bolt securing the factory ground on top of the power steering pump using a 10 mm wrench or driver.
8.) Using the bolt you just removed from step 7, put it through one end of the #5 wire, the free end of the #3 wire and then the factory ground wire and re-secure. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.
9.) Run the #5 wire along the top of the valve cover and towards the top of the throttle body.
10.) Remove the rear 10 mm bolt on top of the throttle body. This bolt holds down a small metal tube junction.
11.) Using the bolt just removed from step10, place it through one end of the #2 wire and then the free end to the #5 wire and re-secure. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.
12.) Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds down an orange connector on the driver side fender well.
13.) Using this bolt, place it through one end of the #4 wire and then the free end of the #2 wire and re-secure. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.
14.) Run this wire towards the front of the CL.
15.) Remove the battery/chassis ground bolt which is directly in front of the battery using a 10 mm wrench.
16.) Using this bolt, place through the free end of the #2 wire and re-secure to the battery/chassis ground using a 10 mm wrench.
17.) Remove the front bolt on top of the throttle body that holds the same metal tube bracket in step10.
18.) Using this bolt, place through one end of the #6 wire and re-secure leave loose to allow for positioning of the wires.
19.) Run the #6 wire toward the front of the CL then toward the alternator. Run the wire below the spark plug connectors.
20.) Remove the 10 mm bolt on top of the alternator. This bolt secures a black wire bracket.
21.) Using this bolt, place through the free end of the #6 wire, then the supplied washer, then the free end of the #1 wire and re-secure. NOTE: The washer is a necessary spacer required to lift the #6 wire terminal over the black bracket so there is NO contact with it.
22.) Position wires to allow for free movement. Use wire ties to secure wires where ever necessary.
23.) Tighten down each bolt. CAUTION: Do not over torque bolts!!! 5 to 7 lbs is all that is necessary.
24.) Replace the plastic spark plug cover and secure.
25.) Replace the plastic engine cover and re-secure the 10 mm bolts.
26.) Enjoy!
Copyright © 2003 Szita Technologies
Thread Starter
Spectacular Aroma About
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,364
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Originally posted by bullaculla
There are a few things I didn't like, but its very easy to install. I posted pictures, also, there are the full instructions a couple of pages back.
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...09#post1338509
There are a few things I didn't like, but its very easy to install. I posted pictures, also, there are the full instructions a couple of pages back.
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...09#post1338509
Trending Topics
Racer
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco
Most say it will improve jack shit.
Some say their stero systmes sound better
and some say they get more HP and a smoother idle.
I bought mine and should be gettin them in a few days. After install i will post my unbiased review.
Some say their stero systmes sound better
and some say they get more HP and a smoother idle.
I bought mine and should be gettin them in a few days. After install i will post my unbiased review.
Thread Starter
Spectacular Aroma About
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,364
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Originally posted by CT3.2
What will the grounding kit improve?
What will the grounding kit improve?
Seriously, I've had a few really weird problems from inadequate grounding. Not on this car but I like the idea of beefing up the grounding system. Doubt if it will be anything earth shattering. I'll post my review next week. I misread my shipping info. Said it was being sent out on the 4th not arriving.
SHIFT_over.so.I.can.see
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,760
Likes: 1
From: Lubbock, TX
I heard grounding added 50 hp and 25 ftlbs... 
sorry this whole idea of grounding the car seems like a big f'in waste of money to me... why do you have to go buy a kit? just buy a spool of cable and put ends on it. It's kinda like buying "special" mesh off ebay for a grill.
for those of you who are buying this from someone I've got a bridge in my backyard that you might be interested in.
sorry this whole idea of grounding the car seems like a big f'in waste of money to me... why do you have to go buy a kit? just buy a spool of cable and put ends on it. It's kinda like buying "special" mesh off ebay for a grill.
for those of you who are buying this from someone I've got a bridge in my backyard that you might be interested in.
SHIFT_over.so.I.can.see
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,760
Likes: 1
From: Lubbock, TX
Originally posted by mushutofu
Most say it will improve jack shit.
Some say their stero systmes sound better
and some say they get more HP and a smoother idle.
I bought mine and should be gettin them in a few days. After install i will post my unbiased review.
Most say it will improve jack shit.
Some say their stero systmes sound better
and some say they get more HP and a smoother idle.
I bought mine and should be gettin them in a few days. After install i will post my unbiased review.
It sucks to lie to yourself...
On top of that the dynos have shown 2-3 hp gains. There could be countless reasons for that small 1% difference. There's room for error on a dyno I'm sure.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,921
Likes: 0
i dont want to steal busness from the guy making the grounding kits, and really appreciate what he is doing, but you could fabricate your own on his measurements for considerable less than what he carges check ebay for four gauge wire buy your own connectors for less than 30 bucks
Thread Starter
Spectacular Aroma About
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,364
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Originally posted by Dan
You people have too much money to waste on worthless s--t! Yeah, the Honda engineers don't know a damn thing about designing electrical systems.
Dan
You people have too much money to waste on worthless s--t! Yeah, the Honda engineers don't know a damn thing about designing electrical systems.
Dan
I love my CL-S
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,409
Likes: 0
From: canada
if you dont like it..dont buy it...even if i dont get any hp or tq from it, it would still make my engine bay looks better. it's the same as like buying a 100$+ set of grill just to make your car look better.
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