Grounding Kit
08-05-2003 | 05:01 AM
#121
Grounding Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: New Orleans
Yeah, normally I would have gone right off the battery's negative terminal.
However, if you notice, the negative terminal has a lead coming off of it that goes directly to the chassis. I secured my wire there. So, effectively it is the same thing. Also, the plastic battery cover would impede any wire coming in from the fender side. I would have to come in from the other way. I tried to be as neat and uncluttered as possible.
However, if you notice, the negative terminal has a lead coming off of it that goes directly to the chassis. I secured my wire there. So, effectively it is the same thing. Also, the plastic battery cover would impede any wire coming in from the fender side. I would have to come in from the other way. I tried to be as neat and uncluttered as possible.
08-05-2003 | 05:11 AM
#122
Drifting
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,166
Likes: 0
From: New Orleans, LA,USA
Originally posted by InSaNeAmine
Yeah, normally I would have gone right off the battery's negative terminal.
However, if you notice, the negative terminal has a lead coming off of it that goes directly to the chassis. I secured my wire there. So, effectively it is the same thing. Also, the plastic battery cover would impede any wire coming in from the fender side. I would have to come in from the other way. I tried to be as neat and uncluttered as possible.
Yeah, normally I would have gone right off the battery's negative terminal.
However, if you notice, the negative terminal has a lead coming off of it that goes directly to the chassis. I secured my wire there. So, effectively it is the same thing. Also, the plastic battery cover would impede any wire coming in from the fender side. I would have to come in from the other way. I tried to be as neat and uncluttered as possible.
Hey Rol :pfawk: waassupp
Yeah we both felt that it would look better and be just as good if we attached the grounding kit wire on to the chassie where the battery is grounded. The wire that the battery uses is thick and looks like it didnt need to be changed.
08-05-2003 | 05:14 AM
#123
Drifting
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,166
Likes: 0
From: New Orleans, LA,USA
Originally posted by Ant7701
Anyone get there kit yet and installed it....responses????????
Anyone get there kit yet and installed it....responses????????
08-05-2003 | 06:11 AM
#127
Drifting
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,166
Likes: 0
From: New Orleans, LA,USA
Well to be 100% honest...I don't know if I do or don't feel anything. The car runs great...it may have smoothed things up...but on a smooth running car its hard to tell differences ya know. The kit looks top notch, is of great quality and I am sure it has to be doing something...I mean just look at the small wimpy stock grounding wires that go to the chassis. I would also think this kit could help with getting rid of any unwanted alternator noise that you might get with an aftermarket stereo setup. I believe Astroboy has a kit (not this one) and he said that it cleared up his audio system (and what an audio system it is ) So is it worth it...I think so...its not to expensive and it looks good if anything...but im sure its doing more than just looking good
) So is it worth it...I think so...its not to expensive and it looks good if anything...but im sure its doing more than just looking good
08-05-2003 | 07:53 AM
#130
Drifting
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,166
Likes: 0
From: New Orleans, LA,USA
Heh well I dont know about 20hp.......its at least 50hp hahahaha :P Like I said it mgiht add some power it might not...I have read that it does and it does dont so with out a dyno I would not know. But it has to be a better ground for the engin than the stock one so you would think it helps in some way. I dont have my system back in but i know I used to have some noise from the Alt. so if it were to correct it I would be happy.
08-05-2003 | 02:15 PM
#132
Grounding Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: New Orleans
Acura-CL Grounding Kit DIY
Acura - CL Custom Grounding Kit
Safety 1st: Work only on cool or cold engines. Hot engines will burn you!
Disclaimer: I am not responsible for what you do to your automobile. Install at your own risk. Read instructions thoroughly before installation.
Kit Includes:
1 - Installation Instructions
1 - Lock Washer - Used as a spacer in Step 21.
2 - Zip Ties - Used to keep wires in place.
6 - 4 gauge heat & chemical resistant insulated high purity copper cables:
#1 - 18” – Passenger side chassis ground to alternator.
#2 - 18” – Top rear of throttle body to driver side fender well bracket.
#3 - 20” – Passenger side chassis ground to steering pump.
#4 - 20” – Fender well bracket to battery/chassis ground.
#5 - 30” – Power steering ground to top rear of throttle body.
#6 - 30” – Top front throttle body to alternator.
Tools required:
10 mm open/closed end wrench
10 mm socket and driver
1 Quarter or Penny
Time Required:
1 - 1.5 hours, at most.
Installation:
Note: Hold on to your Screws! DO NOT OVER TORQUE! Recommended; < 7 ft-lbs.
1.) Remove plastic engine cover by removing the 4 securing bolts with a 10 mm socket driver.
2.) Remove the small plastic cover which houses the top of the spark plugs by unscrewing the slotted fasteners with a quarter or penny.
3.) Remove the 10 mm bolt holding the passenger side chassis ground just above the ABS controller. The factory ground has three very thin wires coming off of it.
4.) Using the bolt you just removed from step 3, put it through one end of the #1 wire, then the #3 wire and then back through the ground wires. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.
5.) Run the #1 wire towards the front of the CL around the plastic filler tube for the wiper reservoir and towards the alternator.
6.) Run the #3 wire toward the back of the CL along the fender well and then to the factory ground on top of the power steering pump.
7.) Remove the bolt securing the factory ground on top of the power steering pump using a 10 mm wrench or driver.
8.) Using the bolt you just removed from step 7, put it through one end of the #5 wire, the free end of the #3 wire and then the factory ground wire and re-secure. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.
9.) Run the #5 wire along the top of the valve cover and towards the top of the throttle body.
10.) Remove the rear 10 mm bolt on top of the throttle body. This bolt holds down a small metal tube junction.
11.) Using the bolt just removed from step10, place it through one end of the #2 wire and then the free end to the #5 wire and re-secure. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.
12.) Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds down an orange connector on the driver side fender well.
13.) Using this bolt, place it through one end of the #4 wire and then the free end of the #2 wire and re-secure. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.
14.) Run this wire towards the front of the CL.
15.) Remove the battery/chassis ground bolt which is directly in front of the battery using a 10 mm wrench.
16.) Using this bolt, place through the free end of the #2 wire and re-secure to the battery/chassis ground using a 10 mm wrench.
17.) Remove the front bolt on top of the throttle body that holds the same metal tube bracket in step10.
18.) Using this bolt, place through one end of the #6 wire and re-secure leave loose to allow for positioning of the wires.
19.) Run the #6 wire toward the front of the CL then toward the alternator. Run the wire below the spark plug connectors.
20.) Remove the 10 mm bolt on top of the alternator. This bolt secures a black wire bracket.
21.) Using this bolt, place through the free end of the #6 wire, then the supplied washer, then the free end of the #1 wire and re-secure. NOTE: The washer is a necessary spacer required to lift the #6 wire terminal over the black bracket so there is NO contact with it.
22.) Position wires to allow for free movement. Use wire ties to secure wires where ever necessary.
23.) Tighten down each bolt. CAUTION: Do not over torque bolts!!! 5 to 7 lbs is all that is necessary.
24.) Replace the plastic spark plug cover and secure.
25.) Replace the plastic engine cover and re-secure the 10 mm bolts.
26.) Enjoy!
Copyright © 2003 Szita Technologies
Safety 1st: Work only on cool or cold engines. Hot engines will burn you!
Disclaimer: I am not responsible for what you do to your automobile. Install at your own risk. Read instructions thoroughly before installation.
Kit Includes:
1 - Installation Instructions
1 - Lock Washer - Used as a spacer in Step 21.
2 - Zip Ties - Used to keep wires in place.
6 - 4 gauge heat & chemical resistant insulated high purity copper cables:
#1 - 18” – Passenger side chassis ground to alternator.
#2 - 18” – Top rear of throttle body to driver side fender well bracket.
#3 - 20” – Passenger side chassis ground to steering pump.
#4 - 20” – Fender well bracket to battery/chassis ground.
#5 - 30” – Power steering ground to top rear of throttle body.
#6 - 30” – Top front throttle body to alternator.
Tools required:
10 mm open/closed end wrench
10 mm socket and driver
1 Quarter or Penny
Time Required:
1 - 1.5 hours, at most.
Installation:
Note: Hold on to your Screws! DO NOT OVER TORQUE! Recommended; < 7 ft-lbs.
1.) Remove plastic engine cover by removing the 4 securing bolts with a 10 mm socket driver.
2.) Remove the small plastic cover which houses the top of the spark plugs by unscrewing the slotted fasteners with a quarter or penny.
3.) Remove the 10 mm bolt holding the passenger side chassis ground just above the ABS controller. The factory ground has three very thin wires coming off of it.
4.) Using the bolt you just removed from step 3, put it through one end of the #1 wire, then the #3 wire and then back through the ground wires. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.
5.) Run the #1 wire towards the front of the CL around the plastic filler tube for the wiper reservoir and towards the alternator.
6.) Run the #3 wire toward the back of the CL along the fender well and then to the factory ground on top of the power steering pump.
7.) Remove the bolt securing the factory ground on top of the power steering pump using a 10 mm wrench or driver.
8.) Using the bolt you just removed from step 7, put it through one end of the #5 wire, the free end of the #3 wire and then the factory ground wire and re-secure. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.
9.) Run the #5 wire along the top of the valve cover and towards the top of the throttle body.
10.) Remove the rear 10 mm bolt on top of the throttle body. This bolt holds down a small metal tube junction.
11.) Using the bolt just removed from step10, place it through one end of the #2 wire and then the free end to the #5 wire and re-secure. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.
12.) Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds down an orange connector on the driver side fender well.
13.) Using this bolt, place it through one end of the #4 wire and then the free end of the #2 wire and re-secure. Finger tight the bolt to allow for positioning of wires.
14.) Run this wire towards the front of the CL.
15.) Remove the battery/chassis ground bolt which is directly in front of the battery using a 10 mm wrench.
16.) Using this bolt, place through the free end of the #2 wire and re-secure to the battery/chassis ground using a 10 mm wrench.
17.) Remove the front bolt on top of the throttle body that holds the same metal tube bracket in step10.
18.) Using this bolt, place through one end of the #6 wire and re-secure leave loose to allow for positioning of the wires.
19.) Run the #6 wire toward the front of the CL then toward the alternator. Run the wire below the spark plug connectors.
20.) Remove the 10 mm bolt on top of the alternator. This bolt secures a black wire bracket.
21.) Using this bolt, place through the free end of the #6 wire, then the supplied washer, then the free end of the #1 wire and re-secure. NOTE: The washer is a necessary spacer required to lift the #6 wire terminal over the black bracket so there is NO contact with it.
22.) Position wires to allow for free movement. Use wire ties to secure wires where ever necessary.
23.) Tighten down each bolt. CAUTION: Do not over torque bolts!!! 5 to 7 lbs is all that is necessary.
24.) Replace the plastic spark plug cover and secure.
25.) Replace the plastic engine cover and re-secure the 10 mm bolts.
26.) Enjoy!
Copyright © 2003 Szita Technologies
08-06-2003 | 09:29 PM
#139
Originally posted by Juker008
Can we get a couple of pics to see what it looks like installed?
Juker008
Can we get a couple of pics to see what it looks like installed?
Juker008
Check PAGE 7!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
NOLACLS has them on his car and the pics are IN THIS THREAD!!!!
GO NOW, PAGE 7!!!!!!!!!!!!
08-06-2003 | 09:38 PM
#140
TRELOS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,752
Likes: 0
From: S. WPB Fla.
Originally posted by AztecRol
OMG DOOOOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Check PAGE 7!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
NOLACLS has them on his car and the pics are IN THIS THREAD!!!!
GO NOW, PAGE 7!!!!!!!!!!!!
OMG DOOOOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Check PAGE 7!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
NOLACLS has them on his car and the pics are IN THIS THREAD!!!!
GO NOW, PAGE 7!!!!!!!!!!!!
$hit my bad bro. I can't believe that I didn't see those pics.
Tnx
Juker008
Goonies...now there is a movie I have not seen in a while 
08-08-2003 | 07:08 AM
#149
Grounding Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: New Orleans
Here we go
A lot of people have been asking me for this information:
Here is the break down:
My 5 wire Z kits go for $75 (10.3 ft.)
The 6 wire Z sets go for $85 (12.8 ft)
The Acura kit took a total of 11.5 feet.
In keeping consistent and fair with my clients across the board, the Acura kit should go for $80!
On the Z side, this is a proven mod. The benefits can be noticed. Also, my craftsmanship is without question top notch. I see to that. The big question IS whether or not these grounding wires improve the performance of the Acura enough to command that price. For the Z it does. I can’t speak for the Acura.
I have sent out a handful of these kits already. Let’s get some feedback. Sound off people.
Here is the break down:
My 5 wire Z kits go for $75 (10.3 ft.)
The 6 wire Z sets go for $85 (12.8 ft)
The Acura kit took a total of 11.5 feet.
In keeping consistent and fair with my clients across the board, the Acura kit should go for $80!
On the Z side, this is a proven mod. The benefits can be noticed. Also, my craftsmanship is without question top notch. I see to that. The big question IS whether or not these grounding wires improve the performance of the Acura enough to command that price. For the Z it does. I can’t speak for the Acura.
I have sent out a handful of these kits already. Let’s get some feedback. Sound off people.
08-08-2003 | 03:12 PM
#153
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Dayton, Ohio,USA
I got a kit but I had to modify the places connected because the lengths were too short for some of the specified locations. I have a TL-S instead of a CL-S and the stock air cleaner housing so this may have been the reason. I attached one end of one wire to the front cylinder head in an empty threaded hole.
I noticed no difference. Maybe a little tip-in hesitation when first accerating after a cold start but then it may just be because I was looking for a change.
I noticed no difference. Maybe a little tip-in hesitation when first accerating after a cold start but then it may just be because I was looking for a change.
08-10-2003 | 02:55 PM
#157
Grounding Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: New Orleans
Why start another thread? There is a good one right here!
Besides, what difference would it make?
If these kits don’t provide a performance increase then, I ain’t sellin’! I have a reputation to uphold!
If they work, the word will get out on its own, believe me. This is exactly what happened with the Z.
Besides, what difference would it make?
If these kits don’t provide a performance increase then, I ain’t sellin’! I have a reputation to uphold!
If they work, the word will get out on its own, believe me. This is exactly what happened with the Z.
Ill put them on this weekend and post full pics. 
