Grounding Kit
I bought insaneamine's grounding kit a few months ago. It definitely made the car smoother in the upper RPM's. As for power, I didn't feel much of a difference, but like someone said earlier it depends on the car....some engines are begging for better grounding.
Anyway, I HIGHLY recommend going with insane's kit, he's was a really great guy to do business with, and have not heard a single complaint. The kit was very good quality; my only small gripe was the bolts that came with it have rusted a little bit...he should probably use galvanized or stainless bolts instead.
Anyway, I HIGHLY recommend going with insane's kit, he's was a really great guy to do business with, and have not heard a single complaint. The kit was very good quality; my only small gripe was the bolts that came with it have rusted a little bit...he should probably use galvanized or stainless bolts instead.
You will see gains after installing the grounding kit.
But most people that have installled these did so because their cars are highly tuned, ie turbo, ignition upgrade, engine mods, cams, camshafts yadda yadda yadda.
so, if ur willing to pay about $30-$70 per 1 hp then go for it, because i doubt you'll see more than 4 or 5 hp gain after installing this kit. But i'm not saying you wont see anything, but it'll be hard to trace on a dyno unless your car is highly tuned.
But most people that have installled these did so because their cars are highly tuned, ie turbo, ignition upgrade, engine mods, cams, camshafts yadda yadda yadda.
so, if ur willing to pay about $30-$70 per 1 hp then go for it, because i doubt you'll see more than 4 or 5 hp gain after installing this kit. But i'm not saying you wont see anything, but it'll be hard to trace on a dyno unless your car is highly tuned.
Here is the story.
I had been in communication with one of your guys but he hasn’t come through.
Here is the deal: I need someone toe work with me to take accurate measurements and refine my install instructions (once they are written).
The person who is willing to help me on this will get a FREE kit. Did I mention that I would make you a free kit??? I thought so.
BTW, there is no need for any type of group buy. I custom make these to order for the Z and the G35.
Honestly, if I get the measurements correct, I’ll be offering them way less than a Benji!
I had been in communication with one of your guys but he hasn’t come through.
Here is the deal: I need someone toe work with me to take accurate measurements and refine my install instructions (once they are written).
The person who is willing to help me on this will get a FREE kit. Did I mention that I would make you a free kit??? I thought so.
BTW, there is no need for any type of group buy. I custom make these to order for the Z and the G35.
Honestly, if I get the measurements correct, I’ll be offering them way less than a Benji!
Tell me what you need me to measure and I will do it TONIGHT for a free kit
I will also take some pics for you if it would make it easier.
Let me know bro
Ohh wait...I just saw you are in New Orleans...Hell Ill come meet you so you can measure them out
I thought I recognized that coaster :P
I will also take some pics for you if it would make it easier.Let me know bro

Ohh wait...I just saw you are in New Orleans...Hell Ill come meet you so you can measure them out
I thought I recognized that coaster :P
Originally posted by InSaNeAmine
Done deal!
Done deal!

I dont have any before dynos and I dont have any plans to do it either but I have wanted to just to see whats what. So when I get to go I will un-do the wires and dyno it and then I will hook them back up and see what happens.
The grounding kit is a passive system, it carries NO current. Effective grounding only provides for a conduit to reduce noise and resistance.
So, no, you CL won’t burst into flames.
The dyno is not that important. Grounding kits have only been documented to increase performance in horsepower and torque by about 2 or 3. Fluctuations in dyno results from run to run average about this much. You have to have a rock steady dyno and consistent results to prove anything. Besides, who can tell 2 horses from a butt dyno?
The grounding kits’ claim to fame in the Z and G35 world have been due to smoother idle and improved throttle response - which can be seen and felt.
To fess up a little, I am not that far removed from you guys. I traded in my 02 RSX Type-S for my 350Z.
I also have to tell you, I have never seen a rough idling Honda engine that wasn’t 15 years old!
Bottom line is that any performance gain is going to be subtle.
Please, email me with any direct questions: InSaNeAmine@cox.net
WiLd~CL~TYPS-@SS and NOLACLS check your emails!!!
So, no, you CL won’t burst into flames.
The dyno is not that important. Grounding kits have only been documented to increase performance in horsepower and torque by about 2 or 3. Fluctuations in dyno results from run to run average about this much. You have to have a rock steady dyno and consistent results to prove anything. Besides, who can tell 2 horses from a butt dyno?
The grounding kits’ claim to fame in the Z and G35 world have been due to smoother idle and improved throttle response - which can be seen and felt.
To fess up a little, I am not that far removed from you guys. I traded in my 02 RSX Type-S for my 350Z.
I also have to tell you, I have never seen a rough idling Honda engine that wasn’t 15 years old!
Bottom line is that any performance gain is going to be subtle.
Please, email me with any direct questions: InSaNeAmine@cox.net
WiLd~CL~TYPS-@SS and NOLACLS check your emails!!!
Here is the other side of the coin, guys. Sounds like insaneamine is the authority here, so I will ask him to clean up the mess I am about to make. Let me tell you why:
I am a complete electrical idiot, period. You give me enough wire, switches, transformers and power sources, and I guarantee you, I will have an electrical fire started inside of two minutes.
Minus this post, I have printed out this entire thread, and will present this to a PhD involved in electrical circuit design to get his tack on this. When Ghaffar starts explaining electrical circuitry to me (or most of us), after 3 sentances he may as well be speaking in sandskrit, it goes right over my head. And this is "minus this post", so I don't get my ass in a sling at work.
Some of you may know me as "powder coating Dave". Me and Nicky Pass have the nice powder coated chrome, but dark looking wheels. As powder coating is an electrically "thrown" paint, at least I understand grounding in that process, i.e, it is essential.
Here is the problem. My company manufactures automotive metal components (screws, end links, etc) and plastic components (tail lights, head lights, etc) for a lot of car companies.
Ford has approached us for urgent, immediate help because they are LOSING the ground on their NEW cars. The result is that the car either stops, dead in its tracks, or will not start after the car has been shut off because of battery depletion. The battery is used to START the car, and it runs off the alternator to RUN the car.
The theory about losing ground is either the ultimate contact point, the screw, is either not cutting through the coatings applied to find metal, ergo, ground, or there is corrosion somewhere in the grounding system that prevents the grounding.
As an electrical idiot, but a coating expert, I was dragged into this project. So, Insaneamine, if you could comment on the opposite side of this thread, a good ground, or a REALLY GOOD ground, versus a shitty ground, much might be learned for all of us-even me! Thanks.
I am a complete electrical idiot, period. You give me enough wire, switches, transformers and power sources, and I guarantee you, I will have an electrical fire started inside of two minutes.
Minus this post, I have printed out this entire thread, and will present this to a PhD involved in electrical circuit design to get his tack on this. When Ghaffar starts explaining electrical circuitry to me (or most of us), after 3 sentances he may as well be speaking in sandskrit, it goes right over my head. And this is "minus this post", so I don't get my ass in a sling at work.
Some of you may know me as "powder coating Dave". Me and Nicky Pass have the nice powder coated chrome, but dark looking wheels. As powder coating is an electrically "thrown" paint, at least I understand grounding in that process, i.e, it is essential.
Here is the problem. My company manufactures automotive metal components (screws, end links, etc) and plastic components (tail lights, head lights, etc) for a lot of car companies.
Ford has approached us for urgent, immediate help because they are LOSING the ground on their NEW cars. The result is that the car either stops, dead in its tracks, or will not start after the car has been shut off because of battery depletion. The battery is used to START the car, and it runs off the alternator to RUN the car.
The theory about losing ground is either the ultimate contact point, the screw, is either not cutting through the coatings applied to find metal, ergo, ground, or there is corrosion somewhere in the grounding system that prevents the grounding.
As an electrical idiot, but a coating expert, I was dragged into this project. So, Insaneamine, if you could comment on the opposite side of this thread, a good ground, or a REALLY GOOD ground, versus a shitty ground, much might be learned for all of us-even me! Thanks.
I am an electrical engineer here is my take:
Definition: Grounding is mainly used to complete an electrical circuit. Open circuit mean there is no ground, no flow of current.
If the ground point is not good enough, the "load" (any electrical device consumig the electrical energy) will see less current flowing throw it and less voltage accross it. The bad ground in fact will have some resistance and will consume electrical energy as heat.
Analog electrical deivces that requires a good 12VDC accross it will not work well when there is only 10.5VDC accorss it.
However, digital signals have 2 levels either 0VDC, LOW, or usually 5VDC, HI. If the ground is at 0 VDC that is great!.
however, let us assume that there noise on the digital signal.
Any Value between 0VDC and say 2 VDC will be considered a low value or 0 digital.
Any Value between 3VDC and say 5 VDC will be considered a hi value or 1 digital.
Therefore, for analog circuit good ground is very helpful for the performane of the "load". In digital word, good brounding or noise-free signal are not that essential.
I hope this helps.
Definition: Grounding is mainly used to complete an electrical circuit. Open circuit mean there is no ground, no flow of current.
If the ground point is not good enough, the "load" (any electrical device consumig the electrical energy) will see less current flowing throw it and less voltage accross it. The bad ground in fact will have some resistance and will consume electrical energy as heat.
Analog electrical deivces that requires a good 12VDC accross it will not work well when there is only 10.5VDC accorss it.
However, digital signals have 2 levels either 0VDC, LOW, or usually 5VDC, HI. If the ground is at 0 VDC that is great!.
however, let us assume that there noise on the digital signal.
Any Value between 0VDC and say 2 VDC will be considered a low value or 0 digital.
Any Value between 3VDC and say 5 VDC will be considered a hi value or 1 digital.
Therefore, for analog circuit good ground is very helpful for the performane of the "load". In digital word, good brounding or noise-free signal are not that essential.
I hope this helps.
WoW, what a challenge! Somehow I don’t believe you are a “complete electrical idiot.”
Anyway, here goes my best layman explanation of what is characterized as a good ground or a bad ground:
A good ground, when in reference to resistance, allows for a more efficient flow of electrons from + to -.
A poor ground is described in the definition of resistance.
Resistance by definition is: The opposition of a body or substance to current passing through it, resulting in a change of electrical energy into heat or another form of energy.
Resistance causes degradation in signal to the ECU.
So, if a signal from any sensor to the ECU is impeded or retarded in any way, the ECU is not operating efficiently. Ergo, < 100%
A good ground when in reference to the discharge of electrical noise, static, or even lightning for that matter, is an object’s ability to dissipate said interference.
A good Ground by definition is: A large conducting body, such as the earth or an electric circuit connected to the earth (the battery and chassis in our case), used as an arbitrary zero of potential.
So, if static builds up somewhere on the engine it can and will interfere with the normal function of the electrical system. Efficient grounding provides for a neutral electrical system.
That is the best I can do. I hope you approve.
GHS
Anyway, here goes my best layman explanation of what is characterized as a good ground or a bad ground:
A good ground, when in reference to resistance, allows for a more efficient flow of electrons from + to -.
A poor ground is described in the definition of resistance.
Resistance by definition is: The opposition of a body or substance to current passing through it, resulting in a change of electrical energy into heat or another form of energy.
Resistance causes degradation in signal to the ECU.
So, if a signal from any sensor to the ECU is impeded or retarded in any way, the ECU is not operating efficiently. Ergo, < 100%
A good ground when in reference to the discharge of electrical noise, static, or even lightning for that matter, is an object’s ability to dissipate said interference.
A good Ground by definition is: A large conducting body, such as the earth or an electric circuit connected to the earth (the battery and chassis in our case), used as an arbitrary zero of potential.
So, if static builds up somewhere on the engine it can and will interfere with the normal function of the electrical system. Efficient grounding provides for a neutral electrical system.
That is the best I can do. I hope you approve.
GHS
If the Z is any indication, the install will be very easy. Believe me, once this is all done I will post a detailed pictorial install. Of course each kit will include detailed instructions.
I have had several of my Z clients get their grounding kits installed at the dealership with no problems. In my experience, even the most mechanically challenged people have had little difficulty installing these kits.
It is looking more like Sunday for NOLACLS and I to get together. Should have some info and pics by Monday.
I have had several of my Z clients get their grounding kits installed at the dealership with no problems. In my experience, even the most mechanically challenged people have had little difficulty installing these kits.
It is looking more like Sunday for NOLACLS and I to get together. Should have some info and pics by Monday.
Good Job guys......those wires look hella tight. I am very interested and will take one in Blue (the second one down from the pic. of sample wires) Let me know how much and when to expect a final product.
Originally posted by InSaNeAmine
allows for a more efficient flow of electrons from + to -.
allows for a more efficient flow of electrons from + to -.
Just to support InSaNeAmine, I purchased grounding kit from him for my Z. Nice work and the product was shipped really quick. I am very happy with the results. Smoother idle and quicker revs. Very easy to install as well.
Originally posted by InSaNeAmine
Here is the story.
I had been in communication with one of your guys but he hasn’t come through.
Here is the deal: I need someone toe work with me to take accurate measurements and refine my install instructions (once they are written).
The person who is willing to help me on this will get a FREE kit. Did I mention that I would make you a free kit??? I thought so.
BTW, there is no need for any type of group buy. I custom make these to order for the Z and the G35.
Honestly, if I get the measurements correct, I’ll be offering them way less than a Benji!
Here is the story.
I had been in communication with one of your guys but he hasn’t come through.
Here is the deal: I need someone toe work with me to take accurate measurements and refine my install instructions (once they are written).
The person who is willing to help me on this will get a FREE kit. Did I mention that I would make you a free kit??? I thought so.
BTW, there is no need for any type of group buy. I custom make these to order for the Z and the G35.
Honestly, if I get the measurements correct, I’ll be offering them way less than a Benji!
I would be more than willing and able to work with u to get a custom grounding kit. PM me.
Juker008
Unless there was a fundamental change in physics while I was asleep the following holds true:
Current Flow and Ohm's Law
Ohm's law is the most important, basic law of electricity. It defines the relationship between the three fundamental electrical quantities: current, voltage, and resistance. When a voltage is applied to a circuit containing only resistive elements (i.e. no coils), current flows according to Ohm's Law, which is shown below.
I = V / R
Where:
I = Electrical Current (Amperes)
V = Voltage (Voltage)
R = Resistance (Ohms)
http://www.ndt-ed.org/EducationResou...urrentflow.htm
In the case of the battery the electrical potential difference (measured in volts) between the poles creates a driving force for the flow of electrons from the negative pole (cathode) to the positive pole (anode).
By convention, the direction of current flow is considered to be the path taken by positive charge. So, current always flows from the positive to the negative pole.
Current Flow and Ohm's Law
Ohm's law is the most important, basic law of electricity. It defines the relationship between the three fundamental electrical quantities: current, voltage, and resistance. When a voltage is applied to a circuit containing only resistive elements (i.e. no coils), current flows according to Ohm's Law, which is shown below.
I = V / R
Where:
I = Electrical Current (Amperes)
V = Voltage (Voltage)
R = Resistance (Ohms)
http://www.ndt-ed.org/EducationResou...urrentflow.htm
In the case of the battery the electrical potential difference (measured in volts) between the poles creates a driving force for the flow of electrons from the negative pole (cathode) to the positive pole (anode).
By convention, the direction of current flow is considered to be the path taken by positive charge. So, current always flows from the positive to the negative pole.
Thanks, but I do apply Ohms Law numerous times a day in industrial controls applications. In fact, we have several test benches here which all our technicians do is monitor 4-20mA signals in a 24VDC circuit.
But the fact remains, current flows from negative potential to positive potential. I even have a simple test to prove this. But here are a few links I quickly found:
http://www.school-for-champions.com/science/dc.htm
Note: Ben Franklin named the charges (+) and (-) when he was studying static electricity. Later, when people were looking at electrical currents, they said that electricity travels from (+) to (-), and that became the convention. But, in reality, the electrons move from (-) the (+), which is the opposite direction that people show current moving. It is confusing, but once a convention is made, it is difficult to correct it.
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/amex/edison/sfeature/acdc.html
http://www.infodotinc.com/doeelecsci...science259.htm
Regardless, I will still be interested in purchasing this kit!!
But the fact remains, current flows from negative potential to positive potential. I even have a simple test to prove this. But here are a few links I quickly found:
http://www.school-for-champions.com/science/dc.htm
Note: Ben Franklin named the charges (+) and (-) when he was studying static electricity. Later, when people were looking at electrical currents, they said that electricity travels from (+) to (-), and that became the convention. But, in reality, the electrons move from (-) the (+), which is the opposite direction that people show current moving. It is confusing, but once a convention is made, it is difficult to correct it.
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/amex/edison/sfeature/acdc.html
http://www.infodotinc.com/doeelecsci...science259.htm
Regardless, I will still be interested in purchasing this kit!!


on this grounding business... you can have fluctuations in dynos from run to run of easily 2-3 HP both ways.
