Good drilled and slotted rotors F+R?
#1
Good drilled and slotted rotors F+R?
Hey guy's I'm looking to buy new front and rear rotors for the cl but I don't know which ones to buy. I know you guys have experience with different brands and styles so I would like to hear what you have to say. I would like drilled and slotted, they can be zinc coated or something similar. I know they have powder coated too, it really doesn't matter to me as long as they don"t rust. I already have brand new wagner thermo quiet pads and paint for the caliber's. So let me know what you guys suggest? Thanks
#2
B A N N E D
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: The grande.. Riverdale NJ.. Hopefully moving to skyline village in Lincoln park NJ..yes dirty jersey
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EBC dimpled and slotted or DBA (disk brake autrialia) are the BEST rotors for our cars..
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#9
I checked out Irotors on ebay there pricing isn't too bad. Anyone have a part number's for ebc's?
#14
Banned
iTrader: (1)
Also note that i don't cut corners modifying my car. I use Comptech and other high quality parts. But brake rotors are simply just chunks of Zink. Zink is just Zink. A $5 bottle of water is not any better than a $2 bottled water.
Last edited by Jacobpockros; 10-10-2009 at 01:29 AM.
#15
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Theres no such thing as zink. I wont agree with Josh, but your argument isnt that strong. First, OEM rotors arent $600. Second, OEM rotors are actually of good quality, its just that they are undersized. Honda is known for using inadequate brakes for their vehicles. This car is way too heavy for 11.1" rotors. It need !2" rotors at least.
Princely - I couldnt agree more. Slotted rotors are much better then drilled or drilled/slotted.
Im running Racing Brake slotted rotors with Hawk pads, and they are decent. Better then stock, but they aren't wowwing me. Theres a slight shimmy now when braking heavy from 100 to around 40, and I have about 15k miles on them.
Princely - I couldnt agree more. Slotted rotors are much better then drilled or drilled/slotted.
Im running Racing Brake slotted rotors with Hawk pads, and they are decent. Better then stock, but they aren't wowwing me. Theres a slight shimmy now when braking heavy from 100 to around 40, and I have about 15k miles on them.
#16
Banned
iTrader: (1)
Theres no such thing as zink. I wont agree with Josh, but your argument isnt that strong. First, OEM rotors arent $600. Second, OEM rotors are actually of good quality, its just that they are undersized. Honda is known for using inadequate brakes for their vehicles. This car is way too heavy for 11.1" rotors. It need !2" rotors at least.
Princely - I couldnt agree more. Slotted rotors are much better then drilled or drilled/slotted.
Im running Racing Brake slotted rotors with Hawk pads, and they are decent. Better then stock, but they aren't wowwing me. Theres a slight shimmy now when braking heavy from 100 to around 40, and I have about 15k miles on them.
Princely - I couldnt agree more. Slotted rotors are much better then drilled or drilled/slotted.
Im running Racing Brake slotted rotors with Hawk pads, and they are decent. Better then stock, but they aren't wowwing me. Theres a slight shimmy now when braking heavy from 100 to around 40, and I have about 15k miles on them.
Sorry spelling error haha
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Last edited by Jacobpockros; 10-10-2009 at 02:39 AM.
#17
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
How many miles have you put on them?
#18
Three Wheelin'
I am going to have to disagree with this. All brake rotors have to be safe and reliable. Other wise, irotors would not be around anymore. Just because you are saving $150, doesn't mean they are any worse than ROTORA or powerslot. Dealers charge you over $600 for brake rotors, im pretty sure we all know that those suck....
Also note that i don't cut corners modifying my car. I use Comptech and other high quality parts. But brake rotors are simply just chunks of Zink. Zink is just Zink. A $5 bottle of water is not any better than a $2 bottled water.
Also note that i don't cut corners modifying my car. I use Comptech and other high quality parts. But brake rotors are simply just chunks of Zink. Zink is just Zink. A $5 bottle of water is not any better than a $2 bottled water.
Brake rotors are cast iron, not zinc. Only zinc coated.
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I agree that you "get what you pay for" with rotors and pads. Find out where any rotor you are going to buy is made. If they use Chinese steel stay away. About 85% of rotors are made in China today. The only and I mean ONLY ones that have been noted in this thread that are not made there are the DBA's and EBC's. For our apps the even the Brembro's are not made in Italy anymore. Pretty sure I've read they too are made in China now. Or from China blanks.
#20
Blown is Best
I am going to have to disagree with this. All brake rotors have to be safe and reliable. Other wise, irotors would not be around anymore. Just because you are saving $150, doesn't mean they are any worse than ROTORA or powerslot. Dealers charge you over $600 for brake rotors, im pretty sure we all know that those suck....
Also note that i don't cut corners modifying my car. I use Comptech and other high quality parts. But brake rotors are simply just chunks of Zink. Zink is just Zink. A $5 bottle of water is not any better than a $2 bottled water.
Also note that i don't cut corners modifying my car. I use Comptech and other high quality parts. But brake rotors are simply just chunks of Zink. Zink is just Zink. A $5 bottle of water is not any better than a $2 bottled water.
#21
So far DBA's and EBC's are the best ones I should be looking into??
#22
Blown is Best
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#23
Three Wheelin'
Brake pad choice will also be dependent upon your driving style and use of the car. What are you looking to get from your brake upgrade? Pad have different characteristics so when someone tells you one pad is better than another, you need to find out why. Better stoping power in single or multiple stops? Better longevity? Better as in less brake dust? Better on first stop cold braking? Better as in quiet? ![2 Cents](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/2cents.gif)
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Could not agree more. Dusting is the last thing I worry about, but that is just me. For some people that is very important. It all has to do with your driving needs.
As far as some pad recomendations, I see alot of people happy with the Hawks. I for one have never used them. I've always used EBC pads, and have been very happy. Redstuff were the best stopping power but they dust really bad. The Yellowstuff have been great with low dust. The Greens were good for normal driving. I'm buying another car soon and will try the DBA slotted 4000's with Carbotech pads. Take a look at the Carbotech's. Seem to do very well from the 100 or so reviews I've read on them. I'm itching to give them a try.
I can say after using EBC rotors on many cars and trucks with all types of driving (track use to towing) I have never had a problem. Just a glazing in a towing app, emergency stop down Baker grade I-15 towing a Porsche 914 with a 2k pound trailer with the greenstuff pads. I've never cracked or warped an EBC rotor.
I think the part number for the EBC rotors is GD7087 for the Acura CLS.
#25
Three Wheelin'
What pads you using?
#26
Model of rotors?
#27
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
4000 series.. the ones with the gold hub and they are drilled and slotted.
And I re-used my pads I got from napa.. the best ones they had at napa.. Adaptive One they were called... or something like that.. cost $180 for front and rear so they are good i hope. HAlf ceramic, and doesn't squeak at all. Lovely
My wheel on my car still vibrates sooo slightly cause of the shitty creepo rotors I have on the back. which I will replace with ebc's. and then it should be 100% glass.
Right now it's at like 91-92% perfect and it was at 65-70% (if that means anything to you).
No steering wheel vibes from braking and they brake in pretty much immediately.
And I re-used my pads I got from napa.. the best ones they had at napa.. Adaptive One they were called... or something like that.. cost $180 for front and rear so they are good i hope. HAlf ceramic, and doesn't squeak at all. Lovely
My wheel on my car still vibrates sooo slightly cause of the shitty creepo rotors I have on the back. which I will replace with ebc's. and then it should be 100% glass.
Right now it's at like 91-92% perfect and it was at 65-70% (if that means anything to you).
No steering wheel vibes from braking and they brake in pretty much immediately.
Last edited by CL-S progression 01; 10-10-2009 at 10:35 PM.
#28
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
I am going to have to disagree with this. All brake rotors have to be safe and reliable. Other wise, irotors would not be around anymore. Just because you are saving $150, doesn't mean they are any worse than ROTORA or powerslot. Dealers charge you over $600 for brake rotors, im pretty sure we all know that those suck....
Also note that i don't cut corners modifying my car. I use Comptech and other high quality parts. But brake rotors are simply just chunks of Zink. Zink is just Zink. A $5 bottle of water is not any better than a $2 bottled water.
Also note that i don't cut corners modifying my car. I use Comptech and other high quality parts. But brake rotors are simply just chunks of Zink. Zink is just Zink. A $5 bottle of water is not any better than a $2 bottled water.
Different companies use different grades of steel. And a rotor is mostly an iron composition, not zinc.
All things are not created equal. You will learn that over time. I have been in this industry for over 10 years and I've installed all sorts of products and there is a difference.
#29
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Theres no such thing as zink. I wont agree with Josh, but your argument isnt that strong. First, OEM rotors arent $600. Second, OEM rotors are actually of good quality, its just that they are undersized. Honda is known for using inadequate brakes for their vehicles. This car is way too heavy for 11.1" rotors. It need !2" rotors at least.
Princely - I couldnt agree more. Slotted rotors are much better then drilled or drilled/slotted.
Im running Racing Brake slotted rotors with Hawk pads, and they are decent. Better then stock, but they aren't wowwing me. Theres a slight shimmy now when braking heavy from 100 to around 40, and I have about 15k miles on them.
Princely - I couldnt agree more. Slotted rotors are much better then drilled or drilled/slotted.
Im running Racing Brake slotted rotors with Hawk pads, and they are decent. Better then stock, but they aren't wowwing me. Theres a slight shimmy now when braking heavy from 100 to around 40, and I have about 15k miles on them.
Racingbrake pads are formulated to work with the Racingbrake rotors. Because of the compound in the rotors you need to step up the pad more aggressively than normal. HPS and Ceramic are great on conventional rotors like the ones mention in this thread, but RB are really a different breed.
And yes there is such a think an Zinc. Look on the periodic table. If prevents rust by being a sacrificial anode, and it looks really shiny when alloyed with nickel. Not the greatest braking surface but it looks nice.
#30
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
People have already responded to you. Everyone has an opinion and you're entitled to believe what you say but it is incorrect. All rotors are not equal. And there are a number of AZ members who have posted about issues with some of the cheaper rotors: vibration, machining, durability, longevity.
Different companies use different grades of steel. And a rotor is mostly an iron composition, not zinc.
All things are not created equal. You will learn that over time. I have been in this industry for over 10 years and I've installed all sorts of products and there is a difference.
Different companies use different grades of steel. And a rotor is mostly an iron composition, not zinc.
All things are not created equal. You will learn that over time. I have been in this industry for over 10 years and I've installed all sorts of products and there is a difference.
Oh yes there is a big difference. Quality control is the main thing. at the root of it most all rotors really are the same thing. It is the production quality and the features that you really need to look at to see why one might cost more than the other.
#31
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Thanks for the heads up on the pads, but once I need new brakes these dinky 11.1" rotors are gone, and a BBK is taking its place.
#33
Three Wheelin'
Those racingbrakes would feel a lot better with ET500 pads in there. People tend to get the Racingbrake rotors because we push them a lot but get the Hawk pads because of the rating and the branding.
Racingbrake pads are formulated to work with the Racingbrake rotors.Because of the compound in the rotors you need to step up the pad more aggressively than normal. HPS and Ceramic are great on conventional rotors like the ones mention in this thread, but RB are really a different breed.
And yes there is such a think an Zinc. Look on the periodic table. If prevents rust by being a sacrificial anode, and it looks really shiny when alloyed with nickel. Not the greatest braking surface but it looks nice.
Racingbrake pads are formulated to work with the Racingbrake rotors.Because of the compound in the rotors you need to step up the pad more aggressively than normal. HPS and Ceramic are great on conventional rotors like the ones mention in this thread, but RB are really a different breed.
And yes there is such a think an Zinc. Look on the periodic table. If prevents rust by being a sacrificial anode, and it looks really shiny when alloyed with nickel. Not the greatest braking surface but it looks nice.
So what is special about there compound? What makes thier pads specially formulated for thier rotors?
#35
Three Wheelin'
If so where are they actually casted?
#37
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
just get DBA rotors and be done with it. I have NO brake fade anymore!!! no wheel wobble from hard braking NOTHING.
It's like putting art on ur car that is FUNCTIONAL and serves an extremely crucial roll!
If there is one thing you SHOULD SPEND a lot of money on it's YOUR safety!!
Not to mention the looks and performance!!!
Watch DBA's video and you will buy them no matter what the price is!!!
It's like putting art on ur car that is FUNCTIONAL and serves an extremely crucial roll!
If there is one thing you SHOULD SPEND a lot of money on it's YOUR safety!!
Not to mention the looks and performance!!!
Watch DBA's video and you will buy them no matter what the price is!!!
#38
Three Wheelin'
just get DBA rotors and be done with it. I have NO brake fade anymore!!! no wheel wobble from hard braking NOTHING.
It's like putting art on ur car that is FUNCTIONAL and serves an extremely crucial roll!
If there is one thing you SHOULD SPEND a lot of money on it's YOUR safety!!
Not to mention the looks and performance!!!
Watch DBA's video and you will buy them no matter what the price is!!!
It's like putting art on ur car that is FUNCTIONAL and serves an extremely crucial roll!
If there is one thing you SHOULD SPEND a lot of money on it's YOUR safety!!
Not to mention the looks and performance!!!
Watch DBA's video and you will buy them no matter what the price is!!!
But your pads have more to do with brake fade than your rotors. When a pad gets to hot it releases gases. That is what causes brake fade. It is likely that your sloted rotors are just removing to gases be fore fade happens. That or you brake fluid boils.
Just wanted to hear more about these racingbrakes. Looks to me like they start out as blanks from a China. Their parent company is TPM Products, Inc.
#39
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
I havent had problems with the RB rotors. Ive had them for awhile and theres only a bit of wobble (very slight) at high speed, hard braking (100 down to 40).
They work well for a daily and spirited driving, but for heavy braking, I tend to brake veeeerrrry late, Id choose something else.
They work well for a daily and spirited driving, but for heavy braking, I tend to brake veeeerrrry late, Id choose something else.
#40
Three Wheelin'
I havent had problems with the RB rotors. Ive had them for awhile and theres only a bit of wobble (very slight) at high speed, hard braking (100 down to 40).
They work well for a daily and spirited driving, but for heavy braking, I tend to brake veeeerrrry late, Id choose something else.
They work well for a daily and spirited driving, but for heavy braking, I tend to brake veeeerrrry late, Id choose something else.
But still, I will go with EBC, or DBA. Just because I know they are worth it.
I wish someone here would get some Carbotech pads and try them. I've read 100 or so great reviews. All the Mazda, and Vette club racers seem to really like them. I will get them for my next brake upgrade.