Getting a comptech B-PIPE?

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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 06:50 PM
  #1  
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Getting a comptech B-PIPE?

Is it really worth the money to get a comptech b-pipe with stock '03 mufflers.
Not looking for huge explanations. If someone can draw the pro's and con's, that would be great.
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 06:54 PM
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Pros - Gain maybe 3-4 hp and I believe a deeper exhaust tone
Cons - Paying $600 for the above.
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 06:54 PM
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No, its a waste of money, the gains you will see are minimal, if anything save the money and buy the rotors which are prob around the same price if not cheaper.
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by phipark
Pros - Gain maybe 3-4 hp and I believe a deeper exhaust tone
Cons - Paying $600 for the above.

600$ for a b pipe? I thought it was around 250
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 06:57 PM
  #5  
BEETROOT's Avatar
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$435 shipped.

www.c-c-c.net
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 06:58 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Linner
600$ for a b pipe? I thought it was around 250
Well, we were both wrong. It's $450. Still a little too expensive for my tastes.
http://www.comptechusa.com/store/240128.html
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 07:03 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Linner
No, its a waste of money, the gains you will see are minimal, if anything save the money and buy the rotors which are prob around the same price if not cheaper.
Already bought the rotors
Had some extra money to spend, but b-pipe seems to be a unreasonable expense.

Thanks for the info guys
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 07:03 PM
  #8  
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I paid $425 installed at an Acura dealership. And it is worth it despite what some others have said. There may only be a slight 3-4 WHP gain for N/A cars, but it improves the drive-ability of car throughout the rev range. But it does make for more exhaust sounds, deeper and loader; a lot more aggressive sounding. For a S/C'd car, makes from 5-8 WHP.
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 07:26 PM
  #9  
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im expecting my CT exhausts next tuesday, will get the B-pipe probably in a month. then afterwards its time for some headers...
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 08:30 PM
  #10  
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with what cls6sp03 said. Very little difference N/A and a few ponies S/C'd. Turbo cars will see much more of a difference as less back pressure on the turbine frees up more boost. I probably got 15whp or so out of it. The sound also changed slightly, deeper and more girgly now, I like it. I got mine for $380 cash. There are pics here:
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148679
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 08:38 PM
  #11  
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i dont think its worth getting the b pipe if your na, better to use the money on i/h or pullies
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 09:10 PM
  #12  
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If NA, put the money into your headers first. That will be the best HP gain. Keep an eye out in the black market.
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 10:51 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by cls6sp03
I paid $425 installed at an Acura dealership. And it is worth it despite what some others have said. There may only be a slight 3-4 WHP gain for N/A cars, but it improves the drive-ability of car throughout the rev range. But it does make for more exhaust sounds, deeper and loader; a lot more aggressive sounding. For a S/C'd car, makes from 5-8 WHP.
I like the sound too
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 11:02 PM
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I will let you know Friday....I am tracking my car for the first time since adding the b-pipe. My previous best (supercharged) was 13.67 @ 102.72. Looking to beat that.
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 08:58 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by BlueCLS6
with what cls6sp03 said. Very little difference N/A and a few ponies S/C'd. Turbo cars will see much more of a difference as less back pressure on the turbine frees up more boost.
Correct, there will be little gained on an NA vehicle and a few on a SC'd car. What I would expect with the blown car is that boost will drop but power will go up. That drop in boost would allow you to go to a different pulley and bring the boost back up for even more power. I would expect nearly the same 15 WHP as the turbo.

You turbo guys have it a bit easier as your boost level is automatically compensated. We have to make mechanical changes.

Just FYI, on my last dyno session I lost over 1 PSI boost when I opened the cut out. I may only loss 0.5 PSI with just the B-Pipe. But add back in the 0.5 PSI and the inherent gains fromt he B-Pipe and that 15 WHP looks reasonable.

In other words, there is a B-Pipe in my near future.
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by berny
Is it really worth the money to get a comptech b-pipe with stock '03 mufflers.
Not looking for huge explanations. If someone can draw the pro's and con's, that would be great.
BTW, if you're seriously considering a B-Pipe.. hold off for a few more days as we're working on getting special pricing for a "Comptech Sale". Seriously.. it will save you some bucks.
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 10:44 AM
  #17  
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will definitely wait for the sale junior, i have had only good experiences dealing with c-c-c
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 07:50 PM
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he's from canada, prolly will be 600.oo canadian dollars
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 09:51 AM
  #19  
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What is diameter of a b-pipe?
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 09:54 AM
  #20  
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Nevermind found it - 2.5" then 2" to the mufflers.
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 11:00 AM
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Ok, so why not just go to a muffler shop and have them replace the cat-to-exhause piping in the same dimension?? Or go with a 2.5" "B-pipe" out to a 2.5" exhause...wouldn't it cost a HELL of a lot less?
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 12:05 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by JaredGMS
Ok, so why not just go to a muffler shop and have them replace the cat-to-exhause piping in the same dimension?? Or go with a 2.5" "B-pipe" out to a 2.5" exhause...wouldn't it cost a HELL of a lot less?
Many muffler shops don't always work with stainless and most cannot do mandrel bending. A shop that can do both would end up charging close to what Comptech does.
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 12:30 PM
  #23  
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Is the stainless necessary or only for looks?
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 12:31 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by flint
I will let you know Friday....I am tracking my car for the first time since adding the b-pipe. My previous best (supercharged) was 13.67 @ 102.72. Looking to beat that.

Nice time Flint. Good luck. BTW, why do I trap almost 2.5MPH faster in the 1/4? Was this time w/ your 19's?
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 02:51 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Seattle Cl-S
Is the stainless necessary or only for looks?
It resists corrosion unlike steel so it doesn't rust out in five years or so.
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 03:47 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by scalbert
Many muffler shops don't always work with stainless and most cannot do mandrel bending. A shop that can do both would end up charging close to what Comptech does.

What is a mandrel bend??
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 03:54 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by JaredGMS
What is a mandrel bend??
it's where the bend is round and not crushed


mandrel
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 04:24 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by scalbert
It resists corrosion unlike steel so it doesn't rust out in five years or so.



...like their springs.
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 05:32 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by rbf351
it's where the bend is round and not crushed


mandrel
Got it. Less abrupt turns equal less backpressure = more HP.....ok

Thanks
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Old Sep 10, 2004 | 11:36 PM
  #30  
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I didn't notice a drop in boost when I added my b-pipe

Originally Posted by scalbert
Correct, there will be little gained on an NA vehicle and a few on a SC'd car. What I would expect with the blown car is that boost will drop but power will go up. That drop in boost would allow you to go to a different pulley and bring the boost back up for even more power. I would expect nearly the same 15 WHP as the turbo.

You turbo guys have it a bit easier as your boost level is automatically compensated. We have to make mechanical changes.

Just FYI, on my last dyno session I lost over 1 PSI boost when I opened the cut out. I may only loss 0.5 PSI with just the B-Pipe. But add back in the 0.5 PSI and the inherent gains fromt he B-Pipe and that 15 WHP looks reasonable.

In other words, there is a B-Pipe in my near future.
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 12:04 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by flint
I didn't notice a drop in boost when I added my b-pipe
Interesting and this will need further looking into. If you didn't see a loss then you are not moving enough to cause boost stacking. Or you have more back pressure up stream which would be the catalytic converter.

I know this may be hard, but try unbolting the catalitic converter and see if there is a drop in boost.

I expected and saw a drop in boost with the cut-out open. I would expect others to see a difference with a partial benefit to reduced exhaust back pressure.
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 12:18 AM
  #32  
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cant you take off your stock y pipe and paint it? i am thinking about doing this since the stock one is just plain ugly. and getting a y pipe from comptech is not in my budget.

can anyone recommened a paint?
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 12:18 AM
  #33  
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Shouldn't be too hard, just loud maybe....
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 08:38 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by edgalang
...like their springs.
Good one!
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 01:41 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Seattle Cl-S
Is the stainless necessary or only for looks?
you want ss beacuse if you live by the beach or a snowy area all of that salt is a nightmare on no ss parts.
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