A few more questions
#1
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A few more questions
OK, after I searched and found no answer to my questions, I turn to you for help.
First, if I was to get my transmission replaced, does the dealer give a warranty on the transmission? In other words, does the dealer stand behind the transmission. I know it wouldn't be long, maybe a few thousand miles? I have 84k and know it's covered till 109k, but what about after that. (No problems now and still on 1st tranny)
Second, I want to get my front bumper repainted. There is no damage at all, just want to have the bottom opening painted from black to white. Would this affect the carfax report showing the car was repainted. I don't want anything showing on the report due to a cosmetic appearance.
Thanks for any info you can provide!
Jeff
First, if I was to get my transmission replaced, does the dealer give a warranty on the transmission? In other words, does the dealer stand behind the transmission. I know it wouldn't be long, maybe a few thousand miles? I have 84k and know it's covered till 109k, but what about after that. (No problems now and still on 1st tranny)
Second, I want to get my front bumper repainted. There is no damage at all, just want to have the bottom opening painted from black to white. Would this affect the carfax report showing the car was repainted. I don't want anything showing on the report due to a cosmetic appearance.
Thanks for any info you can provide!
Jeff
#3
Missing my
Make sure that the paint shop doesn't report it. Carfax gets triggered with a police report or insurance claim. I think any time paint is involved and the VIN is entered it gets reported on Carfax. Just ask the shop first.
#5
Senior Moderator
The replacement transmission is covered till 109K miles. That's it. You might be able to get the dealer who replaced it to "goodwill" it if it fails shortly after 109K miles, but technically, they don't have to do anything after 109K miles.
I've seen a couple of CL's in my area for sale with close to 100K miles on 'em with and the they had "new transmission" in the ad. Lots of people have commented that they'll get rid of their CL once the warrantee on the tranny is up.
Edit: oh, it's not just 109K miles, it's also 7 years from the in service date. So some of the low mileage 01's are going to start falling out of warranty on the year limit instead of mileage...
Didn't the 01's come out in early 00 as an 01 model ?? That would mean that some 01's are already out of warranty even if they have under 109K miles....
I've seen a couple of CL's in my area for sale with close to 100K miles on 'em with and the they had "new transmission" in the ad. Lots of people have commented that they'll get rid of their CL once the warrantee on the tranny is up.
Edit: oh, it's not just 109K miles, it's also 7 years from the in service date. So some of the low mileage 01's are going to start falling out of warranty on the year limit instead of mileage...
Didn't the 01's come out in early 00 as an 01 model ?? That would mean that some 01's are already out of warranty even if they have under 109K miles....
#6
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Originally Posted by VIPCLS
Off the topic, but i see you have your parking lights with the fogs on at the same time. How did you get them to do this?
- Flat head screw driver
- Phillips head screw driver
- A few feet of wire ( I used about the same gauge as speaker wire)
- Heat shrink
- Wire cutters
- Wire strippers
- Heat gun
It took about an hour and a half. First remove the plastic push bolts from the wheel wells ( just the fronts ones so you can remove the parking lights). Once you have the lights out you will have a Green, Black, and a Red. Cut and splice the Red wire leaving enough room to work, and then heat shrink the wires with a heat gun. Do the same for both sides.
Next, remove the plastic locking bolts from the bumper cover under the car. This will give you access to the driving lights. Mine had a phillips head screw and a snap holding it in. Remove the light from the bumper. You should have a Red and a Black wire. Cut and splice the Red wire from the driving light with the new wire from the parking light, and heat shrink them together. Just tape off with electric tape and heat shrink the old red wire so that it won't short out. This is for the LEFT side.
The RIGHT side is a little trickier. Do the same to remove the driving light. Once you have the light out, I had two reds and a black. Cut, splice and shrink the red wires together. This is a power wire for the head lights. With the wire coming from the driving light, connect the new wire to the light, splice and shrink them together. Now test to make sure you have everything right. TEST the Blinkers to make sure your driving lights don't blink and that the Parking lights work with the driving lights.
Last replace all the parts the same way they were removed and enjoy!
Hope that this will help you out!!
Jeff
#7
Moderator Alumnus
Originally Posted by GreenMonster
The replacement transmission is covered till 109K miles. That's it. You might be able to get the dealer who replaced it to "goodwill" it if it fails shortly after 109K miles, but technically, they don't have to do anything after 109K miles.
I've seen a couple of CL's in my area for sale with close to 100K miles on 'em with and the they had "new transmission" in the ad. Lots of people have commented that they'll get rid of their CL once the warrantee on the tranny is up.
Edit: oh, it's not just 109K miles, it's also 7 years from the in service date. So some of the low mileage 01's are going to start falling out of warranty on the year limit instead of mileage...
Didn't the 01's come out in early 00 as an 01 model ?? That would mean that some 01's are already out of warranty even if they have under 109K miles....
I've seen a couple of CL's in my area for sale with close to 100K miles on 'em with and the they had "new transmission" in the ad. Lots of people have commented that they'll get rid of their CL once the warrantee on the tranny is up.
Edit: oh, it's not just 109K miles, it's also 7 years from the in service date. So some of the low mileage 01's are going to start falling out of warranty on the year limit instead of mileage...
Didn't the 01's come out in early 00 as an 01 model ?? That would mean that some 01's are already out of warranty even if they have under 109K miles....
I'm at 123,xxx miles, still on the first tranny. I change the fluid every 30,000 miles. why a lot of people are worried about getting rid of them.
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#9
ridin slow'n'low
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Originally Posted by FFEMTSHAFER
Items needed:
- Flat head screw driver
- Phillips head screw driver
- A few feet of wire ( I used about the same gauge as speaker wire)
- Heat shrink
- Wire cutters
- Wire strippers
- Heat gun
It took about an hour and a half. First remove the plastic push bolts from the wheel wells ( just the fronts ones so you can remove the parking lights). Once you have the lights out you will have a Green, Black, and a Red. Cut and splice the Red wire leaving enough room to work, and then heat shrink the wires with a heat gun. Do the same for both sides.
Next, remove the plastic locking bolts from the bumper cover under the car. This will give you access to the driving lights. Mine had a phillips head screw and a snap holding it in. Remove the light from the bumper. You should have a Red and a Black wire. Cut and splice the Red wire from the driving light with the new wire from the parking light, and heat shrink them together. Just tape off with electric tape and heat shrink the old red wire so that it won't short out. This is for the LEFT side.
The RIGHT side is a little trickier. Do the same to remove the driving light. Once you have the light out, I had two reds and a black. Cut, splice and shrink the red wires together. This is a power wire for the head lights. With the wire coming from the driving light, connect the new wire to the light, splice and shrink them together. Now test to make sure you have everything right. TEST the Blinkers to make sure your driving lights don't blink and that the Parking lights work with the driving lights.
Last replace all the parts the same way they were removed and enjoy!
Hope that this will help you out!!
Jeff
- Flat head screw driver
- Phillips head screw driver
- A few feet of wire ( I used about the same gauge as speaker wire)
- Heat shrink
- Wire cutters
- Wire strippers
- Heat gun
It took about an hour and a half. First remove the plastic push bolts from the wheel wells ( just the fronts ones so you can remove the parking lights). Once you have the lights out you will have a Green, Black, and a Red. Cut and splice the Red wire leaving enough room to work, and then heat shrink the wires with a heat gun. Do the same for both sides.
Next, remove the plastic locking bolts from the bumper cover under the car. This will give you access to the driving lights. Mine had a phillips head screw and a snap holding it in. Remove the light from the bumper. You should have a Red and a Black wire. Cut and splice the Red wire from the driving light with the new wire from the parking light, and heat shrink them together. Just tape off with electric tape and heat shrink the old red wire so that it won't short out. This is for the LEFT side.
The RIGHT side is a little trickier. Do the same to remove the driving light. Once you have the light out, I had two reds and a black. Cut, splice and shrink the red wires together. This is a power wire for the head lights. With the wire coming from the driving light, connect the new wire to the light, splice and shrink them together. Now test to make sure you have everything right. TEST the Blinkers to make sure your driving lights don't blink and that the Parking lights work with the driving lights.
Last replace all the parts the same way they were removed and enjoy!
Hope that this will help you out!!
Jeff
Blue = new wire
Is this correct for the left road lamp? How would I modify this for the right road lamp? Why are there 2 red wires going to the right driving light?
Thanks.
#10
Moderator Alumnus
The diagram is correct.
The red wires are power wires. You need power to be able to turn on your lights. If you just had a ground, it wouldn't power the bulb because there is no loop to make the connection.
The red wires are power wires. You need power to be able to turn on your lights. If you just had a ground, it wouldn't power the bulb because there is no loop to make the connection.
#11
ridin slow'n'low
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Originally Posted by GreenMachine
The diagram is correct.
The red wires are power wires. You need power to be able to turn on your lights. If you just had a ground, it wouldn't power the bulb because there is no loop to make the connection.
The red wires are power wires. You need power to be able to turn on your lights. If you just had a ground, it wouldn't power the bulb because there is no loop to make the connection.
#12
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You will take the red wire from the parking light and add a wire to go to the driving light. Once at the driving light that will be your new power wire. Take the two power wires coming to the driving light and connect them together. It will look the same as the diagram above, except you will have a looped red wire.
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