EMC rotors and Porterfield R4s in...56k watchout...
#1
Drifting
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EMC rotors and Porterfield R4s in...56k watchout...
Installed the EMC rotors that I got from the groupbuy on my car and calidog's car over the weekend. Also installed the Porterfield R4S.
Inital review: There seems to be some improvement in breaking, can't really test them yet as I'm in the "break-in" period right now. The R4S are nice! There doesn't seem to be any squeaking so far, could be the Honda anti-squeak that we applied, but we'll see in time. The rotors look beautiful, hard to tell on my car, but you can see them much clearer on calidog's car.
Inital review: There seems to be some improvement in breaking, can't really test them yet as I'm in the "break-in" period right now. The R4S are nice! There doesn't seem to be any squeaking so far, could be the Honda anti-squeak that we applied, but we'll see in time. The rotors look beautiful, hard to tell on my car, but you can see them much clearer on calidog's car.
![](http://www.bui4ever.com/rbui/acl/brakes/stuff_%20021.jpg)
![](http://www.bui4ever.com/rbui/acl/brakes/stuff_%20023.jpg)
![](http://www.bui4ever.com/rbui/acl/brakes/stuff_%20168.jpg)
![](http://www.bui4ever.com/rbui/acl/brakes/stuff_%20170.jpg)
#3
Suzuka Master
Originally posted by CLS2001_97124
Nice, I can't wait until I get mine...
What is the R4S? Pads?
Nice, I can't wait until I get mine...
What is the R4S? Pads?
Porterfield R4S are the pads. They are available for front and rear.
LINK: http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/pads.html
#7
Suzuka Master
Originally posted by Scrib
Nice! What kind of tires are those?
Nice! What kind of tires are those?
PIC/LINK:
![](https://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/yokohama/yo_avs_es_100.jpg)
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....omCompare1=yes
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#9
Suzuka Master
Originally posted by getdowng
Why dimpled and not cross drilled?
btw, looks good!!!
Why dimpled and not cross drilled?
btw, looks good!!!
Everything has trade-offs... (x-drill can crack...)
You loose weight and gain some "venting" with a full x-drill. On a single stop, the increase cooling (minimal) would be offset by the loss of mass to "soak-up" the heat with the extra "thermal mass."
Once you start dimpling and slotting, you allow the pads to make good contact with the rotor surface by having (1) small pockets from the slots and "dimples" to allow the outgassing from very hot pads to be "relieved", (2) still get some "wiping" effect on the pads from the slots, and (3) get some abrasion to prevent "glazing" of the pads with the slots + dimples.
If you were going to run some ducts, and/or wanted to shave every bit of unsprung weight (and rotational mass) from the car, you would head towards x-drilling.
Note: There are some makers (Porsche, Brembo, etc.) that have pretty good luck with x-drilling rotors with minimal cracking (chamfering and heat/cryo treatment can do wonders along with engineering acumen and experience).
Note2: If you were buying rotors that were "machined" from an unknown source (presume they just bought "blanks"), you would probably be safer with slots, slots and dimples than with x-drilling (my opinion only).
#13
Safety Car
Originally posted by EricL
Everything has trade-offs... (x-drill can crack...)
Note: There are some makers (Porsche, Brembo, etc.) that have pretty good luck with x-drilling rotors with minimal cracking (chamfering and heat/cryo treatment can do wonders along with engineering acumen and experience).
Everything has trade-offs... (x-drill can crack...)
Note: There are some makers (Porsche, Brembo, etc.) that have pretty good luck with x-drilling rotors with minimal cracking (chamfering and heat/cryo treatment can do wonders along with engineering acumen and experience).
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#14
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So no upgrade for the rear rotors?... ya know, got to look good all the way around.... what do you have in store for the rear or are you waiting till the EMC rears come in?
Smitty
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